hyroot
Well-Known Member
til week 4 of flower. After that no more alfalfa. I also do seed sprout teas and compost teas.
brew the kelp and alfalfa for 1-2 days. Then add aloe and pro tekt. Right before using.
great white or orca
- Thread starter Buzzzz
- Start date
brew the kelp and alfalfa for 1-2 days. Then add aloe and pro tekt. Right before using.
Buzzzz
Well-Known Member
What does pro tekt and aloe do???
hyroot
Well-Known Member
pro tekt is silica and potassium. ok for true organics
aloe vera has
- Vitamins: It contains vitamins A (beta-carotene), C and E, which are antioxidants. It also contains vitamin B12, folic acid, and choline. Antioxidant neutralizes free radicals.
- Enzymes: It contains 8 enzymes: aliiase, alkaline phosphatase, amylase, bradykinase, carboxypeptidase, catalase, cellulase, lipase, and peroxidase. Bradykinase helps to reduce excessive inflammation when applied to the skin topically, while others help in the breakdown of sugars and fats.
- Minerals: It provides calcium, chromium, copper, selenium, magnesium, manganese, potassium, sodium and zinc. They are essential for the proper functioning of various enzyme systems in different metabolic pathways and few are antioxidants.
- Sugars: It provides monosaccharides (glucose and fructose) and polysaccharides: (glucomannans/polymannose). These are derived from the mucilage layer of the plant and are known as mucopolysaccharides. The most prominent monosaccharide is mannose-6-phosphate, and the most common polysaccharides are called glucomannans [beta-(1,4)-acetylated mannan]. Acemannan, a prominent glucomannan has also been found. Recently, a glycoprotein with antiallergic properties, called alprogen and novel anti-inflammatory compound, C-glucosyl chromone, has been isolated from Aloe vera gel.7,8
- Anthraquinones: It provides 12 anthraquinones, which are phenolic compounds traditionally known as laxatives. Aloin and emodin act as analgesics, antibacterials and antivirals.
- Fatty acids: It provides 4 plant steroids; cholesterol, campesterol, β-sisosterol and lupeol. All these have anti-inflammatory action and lupeol also possesses antiseptic and analgesic properties.
- Hormones: Auxins and gibberellins that help in wound healing and have anti-inflammatory action.
- Others: It provides 20 of the 22 human required amino acids and 7 of the 8 essential amino acids. It also contains salicylic acid that possesses anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Lignin, an inert substance, when included in topical preparations, enhances penetrative effect of the other ingredients into the skin. Saponins that are the soapy substances form about 3% of the gel and have cleansing and antiseptic properties.
since1991
Well-Known Member
Orca liquid mycos....unless you buy fresh (and who knows how long its been on a shelf) is mostly dead. I had a botanist friend at MSU test a sample once. Said 50 to 90% of whats on the label is dead. Mycos and bennies suspended in liquid has a very shory shelf life. Stick with the dry granulated stuff. Its dormant until activated by roots. Also stay away from high phosphorus ferts for a few weeks to gibe the microbes a fighting chance. Ph down is a real microbe killer too depending on source. But yeah....use a granular microbe product (or make your own) and ise it in a tea. Og Biowar is the best ive seen. Use tue tea within 48 hours. Stay away from liquid microbe bottles from the hydro stores. Most of that shit is dead or dying unless you get a bottle right from the distributor truck.
Flagg420
Well-Known Member
powder for dirt, liquid for hydro....
Personally, I feel like the Orca has better performance, but if you dont use it fast enough, you can actually SEE it degrading over time.... I am not shy with it, I will burn $30 to keep my roots bone white.... Least until I can afford a chiller...
mrgreen2015
Well-Known Member
Great White for soil
Bank Breaker
Well-Known Member
really.. I was thinking of buying a big jug of Orca to replace my Plant Success GW and Soluble (Black Powder one) to reduce the amt of bottles I have. I like soluble in promix because of the humic/kelp for added bonus. and its a lot cheaper than GW so i feel no guilt re inoculating every week. GW is better for me in DWC because Soluble clogs my air stone really quick. so i only use soluble in promix.
Bank Breaker
Well-Known Member
Do you guys see any bonus of using Orca in DWC over GW in terms of performance? Does orca give any thicker, more healthy root porn over GW? I've no complaints about GW but if Orca can replace both Soluble and GW i'll take the dive.
since1991
Well-Known Member
Back in the day ( way back) when i ran dwc and rdwc buckets....the only additives i ran were potassium silicate and hydrogen peroxide. Protekt and Oxyplus being the brands. And to this day I still suggest staying away from ANY microbe innoculants and/or humics or just about any other semi organic bio stimulants with true water based systems. I mean really...do they even need it? The systems such as rdwc ,dwc, aero' and nft are high performance by design as it is. When i used these types setups back then....i had EXPLOSIVE growth in veg...just using simple hydrogen peroxide (OxyPlus). Imho a very underrated additive for these systems nowadays. For some reason...all these DWC growers want to add organic based bio stimulant additves. Its just a bad idea i think. Even with a chiller keeping solution temps cool and keeping nasties at bay. Not saying it doesnt work...using mycos...bacillus...kelps...humics...teas.. and the like....but back in the day them additives werent even really on the market yet. But Oxyplus amd Protekt was. DWC and other true water based systems like aeroponics and NFT were VERY popular and easy to setup and run....as long as solution temps didnt get all wonky in the warmer months. There is no insulating buffer like a media substrate based system such as coco coir, rockwool, or peat mixes. These ALWAYS generally do better all seasons and benefit from above said organic based biostimulants. In my opinion...thats where these addies belong. Cool 65 degree super oxygenated nutrient solution only for the true water based hydroponic systems like DWC. To each his own. Just speaking from my experince from many years of running such setups.
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Bank Breaker
Well-Known Member
I like your approach on DWC feeding set up. But I want to incorporate some kinda additive that'll give me that fuzzy root porn. Rapid Start is a clean additive for roots. But it just gives me that long stringy white roots. The bennies are what add that fuzzy hairy root porn effect.
That's why I'm on the look for a very water soluble form of bennies. Orca and Mammoth P came up on my list.
I got a sample of Mammoth P on the way. I've seen plenty of videos in promix/coco. But not a lot of info in DWC.
So far so good with GW in my DWC bucket. My long stringy roots are getting hairier and fuzzier everyday. It makes it a bit too murky for my liking for DWC but it's not clogging anything up.
Not sure if enzymes even do anything. I can tell a huge difference in side by sides with every other additive, except for enzymes.
That's why I'm on the look for a very water soluble form of bennies. Orca and Mammoth P came up on my list.
I got a sample of Mammoth P on the way. I've seen plenty of videos in promix/coco. But not a lot of info in DWC.
So far so good with GW in my DWC bucket. My long stringy roots are getting hairier and fuzzier everyday. It makes it a bit too murky for my liking for DWC but it's not clogging anything up.
Not sure if enzymes even do anything. I can tell a huge difference in side by sides with every other additive, except for enzymes.
since1991
Well-Known Member
Funny you should mention enzymes. Ive used them off and on over the years. Basically if i got the extra cash and the urge at the local hydro shop. And just the other day...while reupping on Canna Coco nutrient and brick coir...i broke down and bought a liter of it. 20 bucks or so..fuhget about it. Anyways...i been using it. First time in awhile. And i think..."why did i buy this crap"? A healthy plant produces its own enzymes. But Cannazyme does have some phosphorus and potassium in it. And the label doesnt say it...but it definitely absolutely has a yucca saponin based wetting agent in it. So there is that benefit. Prolly wont buy another enzyme for another year or so. Lol. They dont do much that i can see.
Bank Breaker
Well-Known Member
Good. not just me then. I didn't notice any HUGE differences in promix or DWC. I dropped $40 for AN- Sensizym too..
since1991
Well-Known Member
Before coco coir came on the scene. ...Promix and peat based mixes in 5 gallon pots on a drip system were the default setting for me and a shitload of growers back then. Fool proof and still kicks ass this day. I literally bought entire truck beds of the stuff. Its all about the coco coir now. I know that substrate so damn well.
Bank Breaker
Well-Known Member
how come coco requires coco specific nutes..
Bank Breaker
Well-Known Member
only reason i didn't get a new bale of cc instead of promix.. noticed there was coco specific nutes and noticed mine isn't..
since1991
Well-Known Member
In all truth..it really.doesnt. Alot of it has to do with the starting water. The hardness buffer..ec and pH. That being said...coco coir has inherent properties that make a slightly modified base nutrient profile more ideal. Namely...lower potassium levels (coco coir has plant useable potassium in it...and it does get released over the course of a grow - even such short cycles in an indoor setup)....elevated calcium, magnesium, and iron (but all just slightly.- and more for small new transplants). Quality chelates like DTPA..EDDHA..fulvic acid and certain aminos like glycine help alot too. But its not too radically different than a standard base nutrient. Did you know back in the day that there were alot of Rockwool specific nutrient bases out there too? Yep. Couple few of em.
since1991
Well-Known Member
Its not a deal breaker to not use a coco coir specific nutrient. Just get a calcium magnesium iron supplement and use it sparingly if you have to.
since1991
Well-Known Member
And just a little hint for peat based mixes. By far your most important additives for that medium is dolomite lime (most brands already have this bit a little more never hurts)....worm castings (fresher the better - and it does wonders to peat mixes)....and an aggregate amendment like perlite or ricehulls. Not a bad idea to mix a dry yucca saponin with a peat mix either. Again. ..alot of brands already do this but a little nore doesnt hurt. Peat mixes are largely hydrophobic. ...that is...they have a tendency to repel a good watering if your not paying attention. Yucca helps combat this bigtime. Its also a good idea when watering a a container with peat as your medium to water it about a third of what it needs...wait a half hour...and give it the rest. Back in the day...we timed our drip manifolds accordingly to allow this to happen.