Hey guys, im having some issues on a couple 3 weeks old plants. I dont even know if its toxicity or a deficiency. They are growing in soil, temp and humidity are good, but I dont know what is causing this. The lower leaves are turning from nice green to dead leaves in 1 to 2 days. I started feeding a week ago
Guide to Nutrient Deficiency or Toxicity
- Thread starter nick17gar
- Start date
raggyb
Well-Known Member
is that soil? any perlite in there?
raggyb
Well-Known Member
I just think the soil looks funny with no aeration and it could help a lot to add some perlite or other kind of aeration to it. That could cause the yellowing. You probably have to give more info about the plant strain and what's in the soil mix and what kind of nutrients your giving and how much.
FatherNelson
Well-Known Member
You need perlite($6 at HD, $8 at WM), your roots cant breath. Judging the pics, your soil is getting realllllly compacted and theyre suffocating. When you water at this stage, you want to spray it in as opposed to a gentle pour
My guy mixes his own soil and its usually 40% perlite.
I've normally used TA (GH) trio but recently changed to their Dual part coco as I'm growing in Coco. Since the switch I've started seeing yellow spots all around but mainly in older leaves. I'm not familiar with the dual part so I just adjust my mix of tap and RO from 80ppm to 150ppm. Ph always at around 6 and fertigating once a day. Any idea if I'm feeding too heavy or messing up with the added cal mag?
I've never ran into issues during veg using the trio nutes, I usually seen those spots from mid flower just.
I've never ran into issues during veg using the trio nutes, I usually seen those spots from mid flower just.
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Pedro Mello
Well-Known Member
Hey everyone!
I'm dealing with a problem that started with small rust-colored (dry) spots, mostly on the edges of the bottom leaves but some in the middle of the leaf as well.
It has spread very quickly to most of the leaves, from the older ones to the younger ones. Leaves get really crispy as well.
On the day it started, they had gone several days without watering, so I don't believe it was due to overwatering (but they hadn't any signs of lack of water too). However, a friend explained to me that even with small amounts of water, if the humidity inside the grow is high (which is the case for me, considering I aim for optimal VPD in a really hot city), it could lead to some problems with the roots anyway.
I'm using organic soil containing carolina (version with vermiculite), humus, calcium sulfate dihydrate, dolomitic calcarium, perlite, biokashi, etc. And I really believe my soil recipe, lighting, and canopy are okay since I have used them before and succeeded. Once the problem appeared, they hadn't eaten so far, but my soil is rich. I was expecting several weeks without extra nutrients. Anyway, when the first spots appeared, I started applying my nutrients, following the recommended instructions.
Despite it seeming like a couple of deficiencies simultaneously (potassium, magnesium, etc.), my two major suspects are: 1) lockout, possibly due to some kind of overwatering because of the high water retention capacity of my soil; 2) some serious disease issue
The 2) is because when I got my carolina soil, it had mold in some pieces. I prepared it, and the mixed soil rest in my balcony for like 4-5 months, so I supposed the nature would equilibrate it... Maybe I fucked up?
Do you think I'm thinking along the right lines? What should I do? I know I might consider starting over, but I'd really like to discover what is going on... I'm having serious difficulties finding similar cases here or on other sites.
After the problem starts and I started applying some extra nutes, my runoff pH is like 6,5 and I'm measuring ~4000 ppm (organic).
I'm dealing with a problem that started with small rust-colored (dry) spots, mostly on the edges of the bottom leaves but some in the middle of the leaf as well.
It has spread very quickly to most of the leaves, from the older ones to the younger ones. Leaves get really crispy as well.
On the day it started, they had gone several days without watering, so I don't believe it was due to overwatering (but they hadn't any signs of lack of water too). However, a friend explained to me that even with small amounts of water, if the humidity inside the grow is high (which is the case for me, considering I aim for optimal VPD in a really hot city), it could lead to some problems with the roots anyway.
I'm using organic soil containing carolina (version with vermiculite), humus, calcium sulfate dihydrate, dolomitic calcarium, perlite, biokashi, etc. And I really believe my soil recipe, lighting, and canopy are okay since I have used them before and succeeded. Once the problem appeared, they hadn't eaten so far, but my soil is rich. I was expecting several weeks without extra nutrients. Anyway, when the first spots appeared, I started applying my nutrients, following the recommended instructions.
Despite it seeming like a couple of deficiencies simultaneously (potassium, magnesium, etc.), my two major suspects are: 1) lockout, possibly due to some kind of overwatering because of the high water retention capacity of my soil; 2) some serious disease issue
The 2) is because when I got my carolina soil, it had mold in some pieces. I prepared it, and the mixed soil rest in my balcony for like 4-5 months, so I supposed the nature would equilibrate it... Maybe I fucked up?
Do you think I'm thinking along the right lines? What should I do? I know I might consider starting over, but I'd really like to discover what is going on... I'm having serious difficulties finding similar cases here or on other sites.
After the problem starts and I started applying some extra nutes, my runoff pH is like 6,5 and I'm measuring ~4000 ppm (organic).
raggyb
Well-Known Member
so much seems possibly wrong but the stumper is you have done all this the same without problems, except for the mold issue. I thought hydrogen peroxide can kill mold. I forget how much you dilute it but you can easily search for that if you want to try that.Hey everyone!
I'm dealing with a problem that started with small rust-colored (dry) spots, mostly on the edges of the bottom leaves but some in the middle of the leaf as well.
It has spread very quickly to most of the leaves, from the older ones to the younger ones. Leaves get really crispy as well.
On the day it started, they had gone several days without watering, so I don't believe it was due to overwatering (but they hadn't any signs of lack of water too). However, a friend explained to me that even with small amounts of water, if the humidity inside the grow is high (which is the case for me, considering I aim for optimal VPD in a really hot city), it could lead to some problems with the roots anyway.
I'm using organic soil containing carolina (version with vermiculite), humus, calcium sulfate dihydrate, dolomitic calcarium, perlite, biokashi, etc. And I really believe my soil recipe, lighting, and canopy are okay since I have used them before and succeeded. Once the problem appeared, they hadn't eaten so far, but my soil is rich. I was expecting several weeks without extra nutrients. Anyway, when the first spots appeared, I started applying my nutrients, following the recommended instructions.
Despite it seeming like a couple of deficiencies simultaneously (potassium, magnesium, etc.), my two major suspects are: 1) lockout, possibly due to some kind of overwatering because of the high water retention capacity of my soil; 2) some serious disease issue
The 2) is because when I got my carolina soil, it had mold in some pieces. I prepared it, and the mixed soil rest in my balcony for like 4-5 months, so I supposed the nature would equilibrate it... Maybe I fucked up?
Do you think I'm thinking along the right lines? What should I do? I know I might consider starting over, but I'd really like to discover what is going on... I'm having serious difficulties finding similar cases here or on other sites.
After the problem starts and I started applying some extra nutes, my runoff pH is like 6,5 and I'm measuring ~4000 ppm (organic).
View attachment 5388080View attachment 5388081
SaHt420
Well-Known Member
Base soil lambert lm-ap virgin soil mixed with about 5tbs of coast of Maine stoneington blend in layers. Watered with mountain water with a ppm of around 90 phd down to 6.3. Does this look like phosphorus deficiency?
I had messed up and set my humidifier to 55% but now it’s 64%. Tents a 2x4 in a lung room around 15x15 venting outside window.
strains Monika Lewinsky leaves are from the first initial fan leaves. Watered before the pics container was light. Containers are 5gal fabrics. All I’ve done is water besides this last light feeding. Sprouted march 28th.
this is the same soil blend but strains mendo jilly. Looked hungry so I fed them all a tsp of stoneington blend.
I have three plants the same soil mix and water ph. All are starting to show these signs less.
I had messed up and set my humidifier to 55% but now it’s 64%. Tents a 2x4 in a lung room around 15x15 venting outside window.
strains Monika Lewinsky leaves are from the first initial fan leaves. Watered before the pics container was light. Containers are 5gal fabrics. All I’ve done is water besides this last light feeding. Sprouted march 28th.
this is the same soil blend but strains mendo jilly. Looked hungry so I fed them all a tsp of stoneington blend.
I have three plants the same soil mix and water ph. All are starting to show these signs less.
raggyb
Well-Known Member
couple guesses to think about:
I see sign of Calcium deficiency in pic2. But that could also be caused by too much of another nutrient such as P or Mg ( see https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/nutrient-antagonism-2-800x570-jpg.5049294/)
Pic 4 shows light color in new growth. Are you in veg or flower? If veg, it suggests deficiency is an immobile nutrient. Immobile nutrients are Calcium, Sulfur, Iron, Boron, and Copper. (https://aquaponicsadvisor.com/mobile-vs-immobile-nutrients/)
So if the problem is nute overdose, go back to Mulder's chart to see who antagonists might be to Ca, for example. Do you know what nutrients are in your mountain water?
Is there a reason you suspected a P problem?
I see sign of Calcium deficiency in pic2. But that could also be caused by too much of another nutrient such as P or Mg ( see https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/nutrient-antagonism-2-800x570-jpg.5049294/)
Pic 4 shows light color in new growth. Are you in veg or flower? If veg, it suggests deficiency is an immobile nutrient. Immobile nutrients are Calcium, Sulfur, Iron, Boron, and Copper. (https://aquaponicsadvisor.com/mobile-vs-immobile-nutrients/)
So if the problem is nute overdose, go back to Mulder's chart to see who antagonists might be to Ca, for example. Do you know what nutrients are in your mountain water?
Is there a reason you suspected a P problem?
SaHt420
Well-Known Member
I’m unsure what’s in my water but I’ve ran pretty solid grows with it in the past. And I only expect p from matching it to picture’s on here. I have some fox farm cal mag if it is a calcium problem there probably just hungry I growing them to be mothers.
raggyb
Well-Known Member
@SaHt420 I don't know if I have this right , but think negative element ions in your water which you say is high pH and needs to be lowered, would not point to excess Ca+ in your water but other things, and your ppm is pretty low so not super over abundance of anything negative either. So maybe try adding your CaMg if you don't already. Hard to say for sure because so many interactions. Maybe someone else knows more definitively chimes in. Good luck and let us know in a couple of weeks how it goes if you can.
SaHt420
Well-Known Member
Yea I figure it’s the water and some hunger for other things. So I’m swapping my water source back to rain water I ph to 6.3 and fed them each a tbs of coast of Maine stoneington blend. Gave two of them half strength cal mag split the gal between them. Got one I might be over watering but they should bounce back .
raggyb
Well-Known Member
I had to look these soils up but is the lambert with no nutrients in it? If so then do you think only 1 tablespoon if the Stonington is enough? I mean 1T isn't much!
SaHt420
Well-Known Member
I just wanna see if they perk up from it I’ll feed heavier if they respond well.