Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!

well it seems like im really complicating things trying to get 14 clones of sour diesel and 14 clones of blueberry to run them in there individual flower units. I managed to get about 11 or 12 of each, without completly leaving the 2 of each mothers twigs. I think they will be just fine once they go into flower. Which brings up a question; how long into flower can you take clones?
I know its been answered several times before but i am dense.

I built stinkbuds system and I am in My 2nd week of flowering, however the leaves started curling on me.

What do you guys thing?

I posted this on the plant problem section, but I haven't gotten much response and I know there are some experienced guys lerking on this tread.

thanks for the help.

valmeida said:

I built stinkbuds system and I am in My 2nd week of flowering, however the leaves started curling on me.

What do you guys thing?

I posted this on the plant problem section, but I haven't gotten much response and I know there are some experienced guys lerking on this tread.

thanks for the help.

Click to expand...

That's an easy one. The dreaded claw!

Your nutrients are too hot. What is your PPM? Whatever it is go down at least 500PPM from that.

The first thing you want to do is buy yourself some Clearex. Drain your res and refill it adding 450ml of Clearex.

Now let your pump run constant for a few hours. Drain and refill your res again and like I said before, drop your PPM.

Watch your new growth. The leaves that are already clawed will stay that way. Nothing you can do about that. Your new growth should start coming in good though.

Some strains are very sensitive to the amount of nutes you can use. No big deal though. You may find yourself running 1500 PPM with great results!

Try different PPM amounts until you dial in your strain...

DIRTHAWKER said:

well it seems like im really complicating things trying to get 14 clones of sour diesel and 14 clones of blueberry to run them in there individual flower units. I managed to get about 11 or 12 of each, without completly leaving the 2 of each mothers twigs. I think they will be just fine once they go into flower. Which brings up a question; how long into flower can you take clones?
I know its been answered several times before but i am dense.

Click to expand...

You an actually take cuttings pretty late into flower. I have some in my cloner now with little buds on them!

They always root. You do end up lot of branches to trim off though.

I usually take my cutting 2-3 days after I harvest just because it takes me that long to trim and clean everything.

Sometimes I let them go a little longer just so I can have a nice fat cutting to take.

For example. I may have this small branch that is just a little too small to cut. I'll just wait a day or two longer so it will end up big enough to cut.

I had a Skunk plant that was three weeks into flower that I took a cutting of and it rooted fine. The cloner really is amazing!

Stink, in all your pics of your flower room the frontmost plants (ones closest to the res) all look smaller than the back giants...im just wondering if its light coverage, or you put smaller plants in the front maybee? or maybee the roots could use a few extra inches of fencepost?

nelsonbrian 93 said:

If you are going to add CO2 then you definately want to use air cooled reflectors, then just use the Proper cfm recommended by the reflector's manufacturer.

Click to expand...

I have 2 nice vented light hoods. Does this mean if I keep them sealed and vented I dont need to worry about the exhaust as much as long as the room stays the right temp. and not worry about the exhaust blowing out the co2 if not on durring co2 or right after so I dont loose it.

I mean as long as my room doesnt get too hot do I really need fresh air since plants make fresh air right. The vent is only really for heat right.
Please correct me if I am mistaken (probly am) My grow room is gone to be sealed air tight for germ/fungi/mold issues since Im growing mushrooms in the same room with a divider for light. but the mushrooms make co2 and use up the humidity so they kinda trade off. If I need fresh air I will have a vent coming in with blowers on a switch so it doesnt come on when/dirctly after the co2 is on. the light vents will just be for them only. the fresh air vent will be hepa filtered and have germicidal lights in the duckwork to kill any mold spores that kill my mushrooms.

any suggestions . its gona be a 2 story room in a building Im going to rent from a friend. Its just not finished inside so I still need to run the electric and vents before I do the drywall. So I can make everything set up for my application. the top story will be for the mushrooms and veg plants and the lower room will be for the flower unit. I will have many fans and one recerculating the air in the mushroom closet down into the flower room so it gets some extra co2 from the mushrooms. They put co2 out as a byproduct and use fresh oxygen.
I want to finish this but Im not sure how I want to run it all yet.
Im allready flowering small units at a diff location just to get me by till my main grow op is started.
thanks stinkbuddys

Kengi9999 said:

Stink, in all your pics of your flower room the frontmost plants (ones closest to the res) all look smaller than the back giants...im just wondering if its light coverage, or you put smaller plants in the front maybee? or maybee the roots could use a few extra inches of fencepost?

Click to expand...

When I fill my flower unit I start with my biggest and best clones first. I start filling from the back and work my way forward.

By the time I get to #14 I'm down to the smaller clones.

Those are the last ones I put into flower so the closest plants really are smaller.

andyman said:

I have 2 nice vented light hoods. Does this mean if I keep them sealed and vented I dont need to worry about the exhaust as much as long as the room stays the right temp. and not worry about the exhaust blowing out the co2 if not on durring co2 or right after so I dont loose it.

I mean as long as my room doesnt get too hot do I really need fresh air since plants make fresh air right. The vent is only really for heat right.
Please correct me if I am mistaken (probly am) My grow room is gone to be sealed air tight for germ/fungi/mold issues since Im growing mushrooms in the same room with a divider for light. but the mushrooms make co2 and use up the humidity so they kinda trade off. If I need fresh air I will have a vent coming in with blowers on a switch so it doesnt come on when/dirctly after the co2 is on. the light vents will just be for them only. the fresh air vent will be hepa filtered and have germicidal lights in the duckwork to kill any mold spores that kill my mushrooms.

any suggestions . its gona be a 2 story room in a building Im going to rent from a friend. Its just not finished inside so I still need to run the electric and vents before I do the drywall. So I can make everything set up for my application. the top story will be for the mushrooms and veg plants and the lower room will be for the flower unit. I will have many fans and one recerculating the air in the mushroom closet down into the flower room so it gets some extra co2 from the mushrooms. They put co2 out as a byproduct and use fresh oxygen.
I want to finish this but Im not sure how I want to run it all yet.
Im allready flowering small units at a diff location just to get me by till my main grow op is started.
thanks stinkbuddys

Click to expand...

With CO2 you need to seal your room air tight. Plants don't need fresh air they need CO2.

As long as you can control the heat and humidity then you are fine. Soon as Summer gets closer you are going to need A/C.

My CO2 controller has a thermostat on it that controls the temps. If my room gets too hot it shuts off the CO2 and turns on the vent fan (or A/C). Same with humidity.

It's OK to start with a timer on your CO2 but as some point you will want to invest in a controller.

I'm about a month from getting my A/C out of storage. I'll run it from April all the way until November.

It sounds to me like you understand the concepts that I'm talking about. It's just a matter of applying it to your room.

On the subject of airconditioning.... my flower room is a room inside of a room, what is the best way to install a unit? i could just get one of the window units and cut a hole in a wall. but wouldnt the exhaust fill the outside room, the room where my exhaust sucks air from? I have seen those expensive units with the intake and exhaust ducting, which would be ideal but dam they are a pretty penny.

do you just set the ac at like 87deg and be done with it? during the hot months where im at it gets in the high 90s and its probably gonna be over 100 without an ac...so i imagine it will probably run nonstop throught the day cycle.

Room in a room here... When someone knowledgable replies for Dirthawker--is there any a/c unit that will act like a dehumidifier as well? Maybe hit two birds with one stone... and I'm confused how a window a/c unit doesn't exhaust the CO2? Or wait.. guess it sucks air from the outside in.. so that should be fine.. except for any exhaust vents in the room?

DIRTHAWKER said:

On the subject of airconditioning.... my flower room is a room inside of a room, what is the best way to install a unit? i could just get one of the window units and cut a hole in a wall. but wouldnt the exhaust fill the outside room, the room where my exhaust sucks air from? I have seen those expensive units with the intake and exhaust ducting, which would be ideal but dam they are a pretty penny.

do you just set the ac at like 87deg and be done with it? during the hot months where im at it gets in the high 90s and its probably gonna be over 100 without an ac...so i imagine it will probably run nonstop throught the day cycle.

Click to expand...

Yea, it will run non stop. Either type A/C will work. A small unit will run all the time. A big unit will run for a little while then shut off.

So a larger expensive unit will actually last a lot longer than a small cheap unit.

A good thing about the A/C is it will also dehumidify the room at the same time it cools it.

Because you run CO2 you either need a wall unit or one with a separate intake so you don't suck all the CO2 out of the room every time the A/C kicks on.

where are some nugg pics?

StinkBud said:

Yea, I will run non stop. Either type A/C will work. A small unit will run all the time. A big unit will run for a little while then shut off.

So a larger expensive unit will actually last a lot longer than a small cheap unit.

A good thing about the A/C is it will also dehumidify the room at the same time it cools it.

Because you run CO2 you either need a wall unit or one with a separate intake so you don't suck all the CO2 out of the room every time the A/C kicks on.

Click to expand...

Thanks stink,
it looks like in my case beacuse all my veg and clones are in the outside room i am gonna need the unit with ducting to exhaust to the outdoors. Unless i can somehow rig someting up to vent the exhaust in a wall unit.

stink bud ur a smart dude

DIRTHAWKER said:

Thanks stink,
it looks like in my case beacuse all my veg and clones are in the outside room i am gonna need the unit with ducting to exhaust to the outdoors. Unless i can somehow rig someting up to vent the exhaust in a wall unit.

Click to expand...

...or a mini-split AC. These are more efficient and don't take up floor space. Not much more than the portable with the external duct. Imagine just the grill of the AC unit mounted on the wall of your grow room - up high so the cold air will "sink" to the bottom of the room...

http://www.minisplitsystems.com/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=AS12-115V13H&gclid=CJCmwoH7jZkCFQ8eDQod5zunZg

I opted for the window mount as they are so affordable and I happen to have just one little window in my room that fits a 1 ton unit (12K BTU). $300 at Sears - Kenmore.

repvip said:

Room in a room here... When someone knowledgable replies for Dirthawker--is there any a/c unit that will act like a dehumidifier as well? Maybe hit two birds with one stone... and I'm confused how a window a/c unit doesn't exhaust the CO2? Or wait.. guess it sucks air from the outside in.. so that should be fine.. except for any exhaust vents in the room?

Click to expand...

I'm not an AC pro - but I know a bit about AC's and can answer your questions. All AC units act as dehumidifiers. Some actually have a setting that just dehumidifies - you can often find this feature in the spec sheets. The water for window mount AC units usually drains outside - you've likely seen a puddle under one... that is the dehumidification in action! On a side note - the runoff from your AC (or dehumidifier) is usually close to 0 PPM water! Add it to your res - feed it to your plants again!....and again...and--you get the idea!

Window units recirculate the air in the room. They do not exhaust your room air out the back. Without modification, the water from the dehumidification will drain out the back. Folks have been busted by this water! It actually smells of weed and can easily be detected by dogs and law.

So this is good news - Your AC will actually help you circulate your CO2 in the room! Get the Sentinel CHHC-1, or similar product to coordinate your exhaust with your CO2... so you dont exhaust your precious CO2.

On the note of CO2 - with tanks you don't have to worry as you do not have a burner that needs oxygen. But, if you do use a CO2 gen with a burner, you will need to exchange the air in your room more often to properly combust the gas and max what the burner can generate. With tanks, Stink is able to seal his room without having to exchange air that often. With a CO2 generator you need to be sure there is enough oxygen in the air so that your burners burn a nice blue color rather than yellow. 2 reasons: If the gas does not combust completely it leaves carbon monoxide - deadly gas! Secondly, if you do not combust completely your burners will have to fire up more often because they are not efficiently producing CO2. This then raises the temps in your grow room as your burners try to maintain your PPMs.

I learned this by reading my Hydrogen manual. And then applied this info to a zone that was running hot as hell - working the large AC unit overtime! It was sealed and we were not allowing enough oxygen in to completely combust and our CO2 gen was working overtime... Our flames were more yellow. We started exchanging the air once every couple hours and the CO2 gen immediately started working more efficiently - burning half the time to maintain 1200 PPM.

I can't wait until the next post. I'm trying to get 3lbs a month myself. How many plant do you have per system and under how much watts.

LionsRoor said:

I'm not an AC pro - but I know a bit about AC's and can answer your questions. All AC units act as dehumidifiers. Some actually have a setting that just dehumidifies - you can often find this feature in the spec sheets. The water for window mount AC units usually drains outside - you've likely seen a puddle under one... that is the dehumidification in action! On a side note - the runoff from your AC (or dehumidifier) is usually close to 0 PPM water! Add it to your res - feed it to your plants again!....and again...and--you get the idea!

Window units recirculate the air in the room. They do not exhaust your room air out the back. Without modification, the water from the dehumidification will drain out the back. Folks have been busted by this water! It actually smells of weed and can easily be detected by dogs and law.

So this is good news - Your AC will actually help you circulate your CO2 in the room! Get the Sentinel CHHC-1, or similar product to coordinate your exhaust with your CO2... so you dont exhaust your precious CO2.

On the note of CO2 - with tanks you don't have to worry as you do not have a burner that needs oxygen. But, if you do use a CO2 gen with a burner, you will need to exchange the air in your room more often to properly combust the gas and max what the burner can generate. With tanks, Stink is able to seal his room without having to exchange air that often. With a CO2 generator you need to be sure there is enough oxygen in the air so that your burners burn a nice blue color rather than yellow. 2 reasons: If the gas does not combust completely it leaves carbon monoxide - deadly gas! Secondly, if you do not combust completely your burners will have to fire up more often because they are not efficiently producing CO2. This then raises the temps in your grow room as your burners try to maintain your PPMs.

I learned this by reading my Hydrogen manual. And then applied this info to a zone that was running hot as hell - working the large AC unit overtime! It was sealed and we were not allowing enough oxygen in to completely combust and our CO2 gen was working overtime... Our flames were more yellow. We started exchanging the air once every couple hours and the CO2 gen immediately started working more efficiently - burning half the time to maintain 1200 PPM.

Click to expand...

Thanks very informative!!

Sounds like I will for sure be looking for an a/c unit with a modifiable waste water hose--I completely neglected this issue

StinkBud said:

With CO2 you need to seal your room air tight. Plants don't need fresh air they need CO2.

As long as you can control the heat and humidity then you are fine. Soon as Summer gets closer you are going to need A/C.

My CO2 controller has a thermostat on it that controls the temps. If my room gets too hot it shuts off the CO2 and turns on the vent fan (or A/C). Same with humidity.

It's OK to start with a timer on your CO2 but as some point you will want to invest in a controller.

I'm about a month from getting my A/C out of storage. I'll run it from April all the way until November.

It sounds to me like you understand the concepts that I'm talking about. It's just a matter of applying it to your room.

Click to expand...

cool cool. I understand now. kinda figured it that way. I will literly have it air tight. hope I dont suffocate while Im in there lol. anyway Ive got the ac unit I just havent cut a hole in the wall yet. my lights are sealed real good so as long as I get everything else air tight then I should be fine. Im gona get one of them controlers as soon as I can afford one. Ive been lookn for a used one on fleabay. dehumidifyers and ac's work very close to the same way. I just got a brand new dehumidifyer about a month ago. it was one that lowes got damaged and had a cracked side. its just a plastic piece that is just cosmetic. got a steal on it 25$ and its a nice one. The temps were I live might get 100 at the most or so. most of the time just high 90's in the worst of the summer.

good news got more of the parts I needed to make a 2nd timer. just waiting on one more part and finding a box to mount it in. Also got a time delay relay that I will hook up so when the co2 kicks off it delays how ever long I want to kick the vent fans on. Im gona put an inline adjustable thermostat outside of the vent fan Im going to use for the lights so that it only kicks on after they heat up. this way it only runs when It gets too hot.

my other concern if I have the room air tight, will the plants make enough oxygen to keep me from death in my growroom when Im in there with the door shut. if for some reason the vents were not on for spring time since it wont be so cold. any one know if mj plants make much oxygen?

thanks

hey stink
when using co2 do i need to run my exhaust fan a few min. before the co2 comes on
thanks for any help
i know its on here the search button dont work