Have the rough design for GROW ROOM...plz HELP me do this right :)

justugh said:

that is 6 inch

my dryer hook up here is 4inch .......most dryer vents are 4 inches it is the common standard .....so odds are that one is too unless it is custom job

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So your saying I can pump 2000CFM throught 6 inch but not more then 200CFM through a 4"?

CanadianONE said:

So your saying I can pump 2000CFM throught 6 inch but not more then 200CFM through a 4"?

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not a 4 inch dryer vent
.....think about how they are outside ...a flap goes up to a 45 degree angle and the air comes out .......so the pipe is choked off at the ejection point and pressure will build up ...and it will come out like a jet

that is not discreet .....for a 300 cfm he would need the end point to have a defuser so the air is spread out not coming out like a jet bending plants cause the plants to die off due to wind burn or when snow is on the ground to keep it from melting away and leaving a bare spot

justugh said:

not a 4 inch dryer vent
.....think about how they are outside ...a flap goes up to a 45 degree angle and the air comes out .......so the pipe is choked off at the ejection point and pressure will build up ...and it will come out like a jet

that is not discreet .....for a 300 cfm he would need the end point to have a defuser so the air is spread out not coming out like a jet bending plants cause the plants to die off due to wind burn or when snow is on the ground to keep it from melting away and leaving a bare spot

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Doesn't take much to move those flaps. Why would the exhaust fan be blowing on the plants? Snow melts from doing laundry anyway

justugh said:

not a 4 inch dryer vent
.....think about how they are outside ...a flap goes up to a 45 degree angle and the air comes out .......so the pipe is choked off at the ejection point and pressure will build up ...and it will come out like a jet

that is not discreet .....for a 300 cfm he would need the end point to have a defuser so the air is spread out not coming out like a jet bending plants cause the plants to die off due to wind burn or when snow is on the ground to keep it from melting away and leaving a bare spot

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He is going to loose 15-25% just by adding carbon filter so now we're down to 225CFM then any ducting will also cause of loss of air flow at the end point and if there are any bends at all that will reduce it further and that's under the impression that it's being run at 300CFM if you add a speed control you can dial it down to start with.

You need to figure out ventilation. If you live in the snow then 300cfm may get you by, if temps hit 65/70f you might run i to issues with just 1 300cfm in a space like that. If all you have is a 4" vent, you will probably have to start using pressure to overcome the 4" diameter . use a higher cfm fan during the summer if you have to,otherwise changing that vent to an 8" will save power from using a bigger fan at a slower speed, less noisy because its not under pressure, the fan will also last longer.

CanadianONE said:

You need to continuously exchange the air in the room once every 1-5 minutes. So you will need an air intake & exhaust for each space (Flower and Veg)
If you are worried about smell you will need a carbon filter for exhausting the air.

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Is this for heat removal or for bringing in fresh air? How fast would 4 plants deplete co2 in a flower room that size i wonder...??

CanadianONE said:

Doesn't take much to move those flaps. Why would the exhaust fan be blowing on the plants? Snow melts from doing laundry anyway

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washing clothes once a week or every 2 weeks ...that is normal
but u are talking every single day dumping out 110/120 degree air

where my vent is we have mint plants growing so when it kicks on smells nice.......other ppl i know have bushes infront of it to hide it .....

u can take the flap off but still has the hood on it at the 45 degree angle if u rip that off it is a strait pipe tho cinderblock wall .......putting anything else there but the standard dryer vent will look odd so will need something infront of it

he was not running a filter in any of the designs he showed .......i was the first person who told him to change that aspect of it .......he was running intake from outside pass over lights dump outside (even that is a bad idea unless in a area where humidity is always low with little rain ) passing air from outside like that increases the chance of moisture getting on the hot bulb and it going boom

and the CFM on what he would get ....he has it set up on the wall the fan directly dumping it out .....so that is going to make pressure sucking it but the power of it going out is still going to be near 300/280 since it has no wind breaks traveling down ducting before he ejects it

i had to think about all these things i have a state trooper next door less then 30 feet from my back door .....and he has a teen girl and boy coming up

I would build the room like this

jacksthc said:

I would build the room like this

View attachment 3488253

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What kind of temps are you working with?

By the time you really get started, it will be cooling off outside. Its easier to run more lights in the winter... Always buy your equipment so that you could upgrade later! I bought a large volume CO2 regulator thinking that I didnt need one that big, but I did... You know what I am saying

Are you renting or buying, that will have an influence on decisions

ibQUOTE="MustangStudFarm, post: 11861323, member: 426145"]What kind of temps are you working with?[/QUOTE]
I did a perpetual grow in a loft for years so the temps where all over the place from -3 to 35c.

I had the lights running at night and used aircooled hood so could reduce the temps in the summer and get the hood closer to the top of the canopy in the winter


in the winter I used a 250mh (veg room) and outtake air went in the flower room and it helped to keep the flower room warm when the lights out

summer swapped the 250mh with t5's and turned them on 18hour 4pm -10am to miss the hottest part of the day and used swamp cooler to keep the humidty high and it reduced the temps

I used 50mm insulation board to keep the heat out in the summer and keep the heat in for the winter grow

MustangStudFarm said:

By the time you really get started, it will be cooling off outside. Its easier to run more lights in the winter... Always buy your equipment so that you could upgrade later! I bought a large volume CO2 regulator thinking that I didnt need one that big, but I did... You know what I am saying

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easier to run more lights in the winter ?
not really, as the problem is flowering the plants under 12/12
more rooms you have more rooms you have to heat when the lights out and heater cost lots in electric, my problem was high electric bill and snow falling off the roof, I was only running 2x 600w in flower

MustangSeveryrm said:

Are you renting or buying, that will have an influence on decisions

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renting but tbh every grower is going to want to pull there room down quick
if they need to

some timber and insulation board,screws plasic sheet and a few hoocks is more less what you need to make a strong room that can last for years and it doesn't dammage the walls etc

I think I should be OK with a 300 cfm because in my first grow temps were pretty stable and that's when I was taking the air straight from the basement.
I do have speed controller.
Duct fan I can use to pull air into the room and exhaust it out with the 300cfm.
I think I will be going with the 2nd design. Gives me more area to work with. Also should I use the walkway area to buffer the air and then exhaust it out or just straight throw the air out?

dipm0de said:

I think I should be OK with a 300 cfm because in my first grow temps were pretty stable and that's when I was taking the air straight from the basement.
I do have speed controller.
Duct fan I can use to pull air into the room and exhaust it out with the 300cfm.
I think I will be going with the 2nd design. Gives me more area to work with. Also should I use the walkway area to buffer the air and then exhaust it out or just straight throw the air out?

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its a bad design but its up to you
a 600w hps will only cover a 4ft x4ft room and you will lose a lot of the light (yeild) as its not reflected back on the plants

I would keep the rooms as small so you can to get the most out the lights

topping and lst the plants in veg and let them grow though a 4ft x4t screen in flower and I am sure you will hit you target every mouth once you get your room fine tuned

take from someone that has played around with groom designs for years and always comes back to a 4ft x 4ft room anless you grow vertical

Well the 600 hps is for the flower room, which will be 4x4 and veg room will be 3x4 with t5 light.
The room will be up by and of the weekend, I just need to make a material list and all that good stuff.
Still unsure about the ventilation though, got 1 day to think on that. Anyone has any ideas just post up please, it will be really helpful.
Also the design I'm going for is the most recent I posted here, with flower n veg on the left n walkway on the right.
Thanks