Help! I’m a little late and hoping to salvage

Dont quote me on this but look into watering with some diluted 3% peroxide to help with the gnats, maybe search the forums on that but it rings a bell. Letting the soil dry up should kill the eggs too, I’m not sure the peroxide ratio. Sticky tape if it’s just the odd one, they prob won’t hurt much.
 
You have to let the soil dry out more than 1/4" deep, but this is dependent on how deep the soil is. Roots need oxygen occasionally and they only get that in a soil grow when the soil dries out. Hydroponics is a different story as you can pump air into the water, to place oxygen in it. Aquariums do the same thing.
Using small pots isn't a good idea, but the issue is the fact that in a scrog, while I've never done it, is probably difficult to impossible in allowing transplant to larger containers. If scrogging, I would think the thing to do is use the largest container possible knowing that your plants are tied up and transplanting later won't be easy. But lesson learned there.
I did the reading on transplant shock and it looks like it happens just when roots are torn when pulling a plant out of the ground. Just transplanting from a small pot to a large one doesn't guarantee shock. I suspect that post-transplant drooping is probably caused by an interruption in taking up water. Roots shouldn't be damaged when removing a plant from a small pot, nor should they be damaged when putting the root ball into a larger mass of soil. If someone thinks that scrubbing the soil away from the root ball is a good idea, I'd say that's wrong as that damages the exterior roots. No one should be damaging roots with just a move to a larger container without touching the roots. (Which is how it should be done anyway).
Flushing to correct pH tends to be pointless as in a soil grow, different areas have different pH levels. I suppose you can flush to removed excess nutrients if possible, but I don't think it's safe to assume that flushing with pH adjusted water creates a more desirable and uniform pH content in soil. This probably works, however, in hydroponics because in just water, the nutrients and their pH are free-flowing. Soil not so much.
People helping others here by putting up erroneous info... is a bad thing. But then, that's the way this forum functions.
 
Treespiker said:
Don't be afraid to really put the water to it. You wanna flush all that junk out.
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I'm not sure that's a good idea. It isn't really junk or it wouldn't be there in the first place. If there's too much, that's a problem, but I wouldn't run tons of water through a grow with the idea that doing so will correct every problem. I'm not sure that's realistic.
 
polishpollack said:
You have to let the soil dry out more than 1/4" deep, but this is dependent on how deep the soil is. Roots need oxygen occasionally and they only get that in a soil grow when the soil dries out. Hydroponics is a different story as you can pump air into the water, to place oxygen in it. Aquariums do the same thing.
Using small pots isn't a good idea, but the issue is the fact that in a scrog, while I've never done it, is probably difficult to impossible in allowing transplant to larger containers. If scrogging, I would think the thing to do is use the largest container possible knowing that your plants are tied up and transplanting later won't be easy. But lesson learned there.
I did the reading on transplant shock and it looks like it happens just when roots are torn when pulling a plant out of the ground. Just transplanting from a small pot to a large one doesn't guarantee shock. I suspect that post-transplant drooping is probably caused by an interruption in taking up water. Roots shouldn't be damaged when removing a plant from a small pot, nor should they be damaged when putting the root ball into a larger mass of soil. If someone thinks that scrubbing the soil away from the root ball is a good idea, I'd say that's wrong as that damages the exterior roots. No one should be damaging roots with just a move to a larger container without touching the roots. (Which is how it should be done anyway).
Flushing to correct pH tends to be pointless as in a soil grow, different areas have different pH levels. I suppose you can flush to removed excess nutrients if possible, but I don't think it's safe to assume that flushing with pH adjusted water creates a more desirable and uniform pH content in soil. This probably works, however, in hydroponics because in just water, the nutrients and their pH are free-flowing. Soil not so much.
People helping others here by putting up erroneous info... is a bad thing. But then, that's the way this forum functions.
Click to expand...
That’s my bad, SOG not ScROG because I grow regular not feminized seeds, I collect the pollen to crossbreed and seed at least one cola of a plant in every grow. The issues were before transplant and did not worsen after, I think someone said that was a possibility but I want to be clear things were starting to go downhill before I transplanted and did not increase after. I started with 9 and got 4 boys so when they came out I intended on transplanting but got lazy and all that.
I had been Foliar feeding with magnesium and it seems to have slowed the issue but while flushing my PPM was out of control between 3500-4500 PPM during first flush. I have flushed them down to about 800 PPM and will let them dry out for 3-4 days before starting back up with half nutes and some magnesium Foliar feeding once a week and go from there. I usually trim fan leaves around this time so the issue if I’ve caught it and stopped it is not even a big deal-just want to make sure it doesn’t get out of control!
mall the advise has been great, if anyone else had suggestions I’d love to hear!
 
NunyaBiznass said:
That’s my bad, SOG not ScROG because I grow regular not feminized seeds, I collect the pollen to crossbreed and seed at least one cola of a plant in every grow. The issues were before transplant and did not worsen after, I think someone said that was a possibility but I want to be clear things were starting to go downhill before I transplanted and did not increase after. I started with 9 and got 4 boys so when they came out I intended on transplanting but got lazy and all that.
I had been Foliar feeding with magnesium and it seems to have slowed the issue but while flushing my PPM was out of control between 3500-4500 PPM during first flush. I have flushed them down to about 800 PPM and will let them dry out for 3-4 days before starting back up with half nutes and some magnesium Foliar feeding once a week and go from there. I usually trim fan leaves around this time so the issue if I’ve caught it and stopped it is not even a big deal-just want to make sure it doesn’t get out of control!
mall the advise has been great, if anyone else had suggestions I’d love to hear!
Click to expand...
I've read that after flushing it's good to do a light feeding so if she does need to eat she can. I'm a total hack (I say this because I don't PH my water or food) I try to pay attention to my ladies and adjust accordingly, was told that growing in soil is a great buffer and a much easier way for a person still new to growing to go. Currently on my 10th plant..
 
polishpollack said:
I'm not sure that's a good idea. It isn't really junk or it wouldn't be there in the first place. If there's too much, that's a problem, but I wouldn't run tons of water through a grow with the idea that doing so will correct every problem. I'm not sure that's realistic.
Click to expand...

Dude go troll someone else.
 
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