Help!! My Blue Dream has the Blues.... And I'm a newbie :)

We are growing this indoors right now until June then it will go outside. It's in my laundry room under 4 full spectrum florescent shop lights. I am transplanting it into a larger pot right now with FF Happy Frog and Ocean Forest blend and have been using FF Grow Big every other watering, but it had this problem long before I ever started feeding it (It had it when I got it as a clone and was told it had been overwatered), and this is occurring only on the bottom leaves. Any ideas what's going on???

I know you said its occuring ONLY on the bottom leaves, but the top leaf tips are they discoloring any at all, or dying back slightly? I see on the bottoms it seems to be worst at the leaf tips where they are beginning to die back and move downwards of the leaf. The spotting looks alot like a calcium deficiency, but the first pic looks as though theres a tad purpling beginning (necrosis) on the leaf itself, which is looking like a phosphorous deficiency....how old are these plants, what size pot were they in, what size pot are they going into? IF you know what is the soil ph, or water ph you have been giving them? Without knowing alot of this information, and just looking at the pictures and the little I have seen I would go with over feeding, simply because your having multiple deficiencys showing up that often times represent over feeding, and your hitting on the grow big but the plants leaves look like its a smaller plant...Anytime I up the nitrogen to high for the plants size it tends to lock out my phos, a little potassium, and major calcium/boron problems. WIth it being a slow progressive leaf problem for the first few weeks and around week 3 it will really begin to pick up if untreated...but again without alot more information I may be mis diagnosing drastically....

This plant is 1.5 months old, see picture for pot sizes. The pH of the water is 6-7 (well water) I have been pH downing the water, soil pH is ~7.2 and the plant is 25" tall.

By looking at it all I would have to say nitro toxicity, cut out the grow big for now just plain water, flush her out a bit, you notice the fan leaves at the tips there hooking down just slightly? and the leaves are super dark almost blue? That represents far to much nitrogen, and where there is too much N it locks out many major and macro nutrients. If you notice the stalks being rather flimsy, and the growth has almost stopped thats typically a dead give away as well

P.s I do love that tapestry, have the same one^_^ Its actually hanging in my living room and travels to all music fests with me

Should I flush the root system right now? I just fed it some more grow big after I transplanted it (2 tsp/gal).... :/. I'm guessing that would be a yes...

I never feed at transplant. The soil your using
has enough nutrients to sustain the plant at transplant.
I would have given the new transplant plain water
let it dry out them more plain water let that dry
out then feed, water, feed, water and so on.
In your sitch I would flush let it dry out then
use plain water let dry then feed imo.

Ya flush her asap! anytime I transplant I always wait about a week before I give nutes again, sometimes even longer (especially in fox farm ocean forest) probably more like 2-2.5 week. When you transplant you gotta remember you are giving the plants not only more room but more nutrients within the soil as well for there roots to uptake, so I find there is no need to add bottled nutes when the plant is living happily on the new soil given. I would just cut back on the grow big for a few weeks, and just give her the plain old water. How did her roots look when you gave her the transplant? White and hairy or getting yellowed brown at all? Personally I wouldnt flush with the recommended 5x your soil gallons. anytime I have needed to flush from over fert I find if I flush with the same amount of water as gallons of soil or even a tad under im fine. Also with the flush pour half a gallon to a gallon (depending on gallon size anything under 7 do a half gallon anything above 7G do a full gallon) of water in there first and come back to finish the flush 15-20 minutes after, this will give time for the intial water to seep into the cracks and dissolve up salts so that it can be pushed out easier when you go throwing the rest of the water in, water slowly and evenly in the flush. When I used to rock ocean forest I could plant a clone in a 2 gallon pot and transplant to my 7 gallon pot after a week and a half and never have to water with vegging nutes. I wouuld veg in the 7 for another 6 weeks and then throw her in flower thats when I would need to begin giving nutes, and I assume It will be about the same for you. You would be surprised how big of a plant you can get from just the soil nutes in that ocean forest, without even needing to throw in bottled nutes..and who doesnt want to keep it simpler and do less work throughout the week? Some of the best advice I can give ya that will always help ya out in the long run, always use less than told to use when dealing with bottle nutes (half strength all the way down to a 16th when first starting the application) and if your unsure and you think it needs nutes but you cant tell, its better to wait and see a bit if a def in the nute you thought it needed arises and shows itself, than it is to throw on what you think it needs because youre scared it will damage the quality or yield. The yield, quality, plant size is damaged far more by a nutrient toxicity in my experience (10 years) than it ever will be by a nute deficient plant, a toxicity makes it deficient in not only one but often times every nutrient, a true deficiency will usually only end up being 1-3 things with it showing them one by one and not all at once. Also it is always easier to do slow and gradual increases (whether it be of a certain nutrients, temperature, humidity, soil etc) than it is to just make alot of major changes at once, give yourself time to get experience in many many things and brands and get really good at them all, so in the end you do truly know whats working better and what adding 2 ml or 5 ml of this nutrient at this week will do for you. Last but not least, when I say bottle nutes I am talking anything with a n-p-k number or micro nutrient such as zinc magnesium copper etc, thats not to say you cant add things like humic or fulvic acids which only aid in breaking down the nutrients within the soil not giving the plant nutes itself within the first few weeks if you wish to add a little umph to the size..

Thank you for your help and suggestions - much appreciated

Funny cuz it looks like you have need calmag but also have nitrogen toxicity. I wpuld flush and find a calmag with as little nitrogen in it as you can.

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We are using Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus 2-0-0, should I add some now on last root flushing??

kmog33 said:

Funny cuz it looks like you have need calmag but also have nitrogen toxicity. I wpuld flush and find a calmag with as little nitrogen in it as you can.

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and I quote from a very reputable guide.....Now for having too much nitrogen in your growing mediums or soil. The plant will have like an overall DARK green look and have delayed maturity. Due to Nitrogen being involved in vegetative growth, to much nitrogen will result in tall plants with weak stems. New growth will be very lively and plant transpiration will be high, but not always. Nitrogen toxicity can be seen when there are very very dry conditions almost as if there was a drought, which may show a burning effect. If you give your plants ammonium based nutrients they may show NH4+ toxicity, which will show a smaller plant growth and lesions that occur on stems and roots, leaf margins that will roll downward. Also the big fan leaves will have “the claw” look. The tips will point down but the leaves will stay up as if when you bend your fingers downwards. Leaves can be twisted when growing… mainly new growths. Roots will be under developed along with the slowing of flowering. Yields will be decreased, because to much nitrogen in early stages of flowering slows down bud growth. Water uptake is slowing down from the vascular breakdown of the plants as well. Too much potassium and nitrogen will lock out calcium as well.....that shows having to much N WILL show a calcium deficiency...and a cal mg product with low N???MOST cal mg products have no N....also ocean forest contains oyster shell, dolomite lime, and crab meal which all contain calcium and magnesium (enough to get him to flower more than likely)...orgeon coast just keep on doing what i told ya youll get it..also if you would like the link to the plant problem solver that I quoted from to prove what I am saying its http://www.420magazine.com/forums/p...abis-plant-pest-problem-solver-pictorial.html

Schwagstock said:

and I quote from a very reputable guide.....Now for having too much nitrogen in your growing mediums or soil. The plant will have like an overall DARK green look and have delayed maturity. Due to Nitrogen being involved in vegetative growth, to much nitrogen will result in tall plants with weak stems. New growth will be very lively and plant transpiration will be high, but not always. Nitrogen toxicity can be seen when there are very very dry conditions almost as if there was a drought, which may show a burning effect. If you give your plants ammonium based nutrients they may show NH4+ toxicity, which will show a smaller plant growth and lesions that occur on stems and roots, leaf margins that will roll downward. Also the big fan leaves will have “the claw” look. The tips will point down but the leaves will stay up as if when you bend your fingers downwards. Leaves can be twisted when growing… mainly new growths. Roots will be under developed along with the slowing of flowering. Yields will be decreased, because to much nitrogen in early stages of flowering slows down bud growth. Water uptake is slowing down from the vascular breakdown of the plants as well. Too much potassium and nitrogen will lock out calcium as well.....that shows having to much N WILL show a calcium deficiency...and a cal mg product with low N???MOST cal mg products have no N....also ocean forest contains oyster shell, dolomite lime, and crab meal which all contain calcium and magnesium (enough to get him to flower more than likely)...orgeon coast just keep on doing what i told ya youll get it..also if you would like the link to the plant problem solver that I quoted from to prove what I am saying its http://www.420magazine.com/forums/p...abis-plant-pest-problem-solver-pictorial.html

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Actually lots of calmags have nitrogen. Sensi and botanicare both have n in their calmag.

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oregoncoast said:

We are using Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus 2-0-0, should I add some now on last root flushing??

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thank you for the insight I think I will wait a couple weeks after flushing and see if the new living environment improves things. Cant see any harm in that.

kmog33 said:

Actually lots of calmags have nitrogen. Sensi and botanicare both have n in their calmag.

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I said most because I dont know about all companys out there

oregoncoast said:

thank you for the insight I think I will wait a couple weeks after flushing and see if the new living environment improves things. Cant see any harm in that.

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Also you said your using well water, which chances are already has a good amount of calium and magnesium, you really only rock cal mg with ro water which has taken out all of the excess nutes...Largely dependent on the ppm of the water coming out but typically well water will sustain the plant on its cal mag needs.

How much nitro are you using as blue dream is able to take a very large amount of nitrogen actually needs more than the norm. This is my blue dream 2.5 weeks into flower. I had doubled up on my normal low nitro dose and she is still looking kinda faded. So maybe look more into cal/mg deficiency. Although I run hydro so you may have other probs.

Sativa leaning plant...
Growing under probably not the most ideal conditions...
3 bad leaves...at the bottom
Showing a little too much N otherwise...
With the idea of eventually putting it outside which will change everything...

I'd ratchet back my feed a little and let her ride. You're not that far off considering. Good luck friend.