Help my plants look like they have N toxicity

heat stress and the CLAW .. too much N.
I grow hydro so correcting toxication is easy.. with soil i am not sure how you could fix this, perhaps put the PH range to a range where N cannot longer be absorbed ?!

keysareme said:

To test the pH of your soil, take a decent sample (2 oz or so of soil) and mix that with 2oz of pH 7 water.

Your soils pH will adjust the pH'd 7 water and you will see what the actual pH of your soil is by the difference.

For sure looks like a burn.

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Oh jeesus.....2 oz from where? The top will be different from the bottom as will the middle (depending on what you use for nutrition). Potted soil is hard to pH properly....Just care for it right and forget the pH......It's worked for me for YEARS.....

Never mind I'm tired of the soil pH argument.....

Dr. Who said:

Heat stress, heat stress, heat stress.......The ambient may be good,,,,,but put your hand at canopy level under the light and see what you feel. Feel hot? Problem! Even brief periods of high heat can really be a problem! Move the light up and add a fan blowing across the plants.
Move the ballast OUT from under the plants!!!!! 4 foot away at least!
Your pH is exactly what it should be!
pH of soil run off is just that, pH of the run off. NOT the pH of the soil!
If you take care of your soil right it will self pH!!!!

I don't see broad mite damage at all....Only oddly enhanced pics...

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good advice great place to start i couldn't agree more with the heat stress. you need to know the temps at canopy level not just in the room. you need to give those plants food because pro mix has nothing and sunshine has coco but basically nothing else. your actually growing hydroponically. so you need to hit them with NPK cal+mag and your trace elements at minimum.

you cant just stick a plant in pro mix and expect it to not get a deficiency

Dr. Who said:

Oh jeesus.....2 oz from where? The top will be different from the bottom as will the middle (depending on what you use for nutrition). Potted soil is hard to pH properly....Just care for it right and forget the pH......It's worked for me for YEARS.....

Never mind I'm tired of the soil pH argument.....

Click to expand...

There is no soil ph argument. It's accepted as fact that the ph of a medium is VERY important. Every element that a plant requires is only mobile in a certain ph range.

Most bagged soil contains sphagnum peat moss which is very acidic. In addition to that every synthetic nutrient that hits the soil will lower the aggregate ph.

Fixing, or avoiding this is not difficult as you suggested. There are plenty of liming agents like dolomite lime, calcium carbonate, oyster shell flour, etc that buffer ph very effectively.

it cant be heat stress its only 79 in the room and i have 2 fans blowing on the canopy also my light is pretty far away from the girls. my ph is 6.5 every time i water so instead of just water should i add the calmag. i need to flower these girls soon so thank you for all suggestions keep them coming!!!

ill take more pics tonight when the lights are off

Looks like nute burn and heat stress to me. Azamax, when sprayed with lights on, can and does burn plants, especially newer growth (been there, done that). If I ever use it, I spray right after lights off with my LED headlamp. If you're in a 420 friendly State and you've brought in clones from a dispensary or outside grower, then buyer beware. If you can, pull a plant from its container, with roots intact, to check for root aphids. We got them from some Acapulco Gold clones and went into "mayday, mayday" mode. We were able to eliminate them quickly, but wishing good vibes your way that you don't have them. All this said, I believe your plants are Azamax burnt. Raise the lights, continue to flush to desired PPMs, mist leaves with 6.5 Ph water, and clip away dead or dying foliage while maintaining semi-healthy to healthy internodal growth. They will rebound. Bless

Dr. Who said:

Oh jeesus.....2 oz from where? The top will be different from the bottom as will the middle (depending on what you use for nutrition). Potted soil is hard to pH properly....Just care for it right and forget the pH......It's worked for me for YEARS.....

Never mind I'm tired of the soil pH argument.....

Click to expand...

dont get hung up on ph to much. slightly acidic leave it at that

jcommerce said:

Looks like nute burn and heat stress to me. Azamax, when sprayed with lights on, can and does burn plants, especially newer growth (been there, done that). If I ever use it, I spray right after lights off with my LED headlamp. If you're in a 420 friendly State and you've brought in clones from a dispensary or outside grower, then buyer beware. If you can, pull a plant from its container, with roots intact, to check for root aphids. We got them from some Acapulco Gold clones and went into "mayday, mayday" mode. We were able to eliminate them quickly, but wishing good vibes your way that you don't have them. All this said, I believe your plants are Azamax burnt. Raise the lights, continue to flush to desired PPMs, mist leaves with 6.5 Ph water, and clip away dead or dying foliage while maintaining semi-healthy to healthy internodal growth. They will rebound. Bless

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Thank you for the good vibes much needed in my garden hah wishing Good vibes to every one who has a garden out there. ill continue to flush with 6.5 PH but i think ill add a little Epsom or calmag just so they dont start getting to yellow.

st0wandgrow said:

There is no soil ph argument. It's accepted as fact that the ph of a medium is VERY important. Every element that a plant requires is only mobile in a certain ph range.

Most bagged soil contains sphagnum peat moss which is very acidic. In addition to that every synthetic nutrient that hits the soil will lower the aggregate ph.

Fixing, or avoiding this is not difficult as you suggested. There are plenty of liming agents like dolomite lime, calcium carbonate, oyster shell flour, etc that buffer ph very effectively.

Click to expand...

Correct! pH of any media used is important...... I just get real tired of explaining that soil self pH's....I build my own soils and,,yes I use Dolomite lime to counter the use of the Peat.I also add Oyster shell and Crab meal for the Ca....The "living" soil now self pH's and I use AACT tea's to keep it at it's peak of "life".
Every synthetic does not lower the soils pH......Their are many that are pH neutral...At ANY watering (plain water or "feed" water) the soil's pH will rise and as it dries out it comes back down again.....This is a natural "swing" in soil.....Salt build ups effect pH,,,,one of the reasons I say to stay away from any Urea based synthetic.......BTW, I don't ever "flush" a soil grow to make a correction if needed (haven't had to for well over 20 years) Flushing can create more problems then not...

I never even implied that pH "fixing or avoiding" was difficult. I don't know where you got that....Accurate testing of soil is a pain,,,but you don't have to, if you keep it healthy and pH the ingoing to 6.5

Khronickush said:

it cant be heat stress its only 79 in the room and i have 2 fans blowing on the canopy also my light is pretty far away from the girls. my ph is 6.5 every time i water so instead of just water should i add the calmag. i need to flower these girls soon so thank you for all suggestions keep them coming!!!

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Dude,,,,,it's heat stress, the ambient temp of the room makes no difference.....if the "felt" temp/heat at the canopy level is high.....Like I said,,even brief periods of high heat will cause exactly what you have in those pics.....

Please don't "flush"....

Simply pH your ingoing water/feed solution to 6.5 and you'll be good to go

Dr. Who said:

Correct! pH of any media used is important...... I just get real tired of explaining that soil self pH's....I build my own soils and,,yes I use Dolomite lime to counter the use of the Peat.I also add Oyster shell and Crab meal for the Ca....

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I'm confused. In one breath you say soil "self ph's", and then you go on to say that you add various ingredients to help ph the soil. In your case a living soil will buffer the ph some, but the slow release of ingredients like dolomite lime is also keeping your ph in range.

Dr. Who said:

I never even implied that pH "fixing or avoiding" was difficult. I don't know where you got that....

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From here:

"Potted soil is hard to pH properly."

Dr Who, It's clear that you know what you're doing. I get what you're saying, but I have a hunch that OP doesn't ...... so just trying to be clear for people that maybe aren't as far along in this as you are.

st0wandgrow said:

I'm confused. In one breath you say soil "self ph's", and then you go on to say that you add various ingredients to help ph the soil. In your case a living soil will buffer the ph some, but the slow release of ingredients like dolomite lime is also keeping your ph in range.




From here:

"Potted soil is hard to pH properly."

Click to expand...

This line does not have anything to do with "fixing or adjusting" pH.....It supposed to reflect that getting a proper pH OF the soil is hard.

Your not getting it st0w.......I build my soils and in building them I add Dolomite and other things to help this new soil stay pH stable....It ,, when used,,,self pH's all soil does. The microbes in the soil will react with the plant to swing the pH to more of what the plant requires it to be.......Some plants like more extreme ends of the pH scale and you must "help" the microbes by adjusting the soil to be to the plants liking. Azalia's and Blueberry's come to mind

ROTFL

Sure you say that now before I finished typing

Cool man,,,thanks!
I was getting confused as I know your better then those questions too!

Dr. Who said:

This line does not have anything to do with "fixing or adjusting" pH.....It supposed to reflect that getting a proper pH OF the soil is hard.

Your not getting it st0w.......I build my soils and in building them I add Dolomite and other things to help this new soil stay pH stable....It ,, when used,,,self pH's all soil does. The microbes in the soil will react with the plant to swing the pH to more of what the plant requires it to be.......Some plants like more extreme ends of the pH scale and you must "help" the microbes by adjusting the soil to be to the plants liking. Azalia's and Blueberry's come to mind

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Oh, I get it. I make my own soil as well. Your statement that "all soil self ph's" is just inaccurate though. If you don't believe me, build your next soil and leave out all liming agents like dolo lime, oyster shell flour, calcium carbonate, etc ....... and see how well your soil "self ph's".

I believe you! I know man,,, really.....Because I use a Peat based mix, I use 1 cup of dolomite lime to every cubic ft of soil base before the nutrition is added.......
All natural out doors,,made by what ever deity you believe in soil,,,,,self pH's! Before you say it,,,not sand!

Poor indoor soils do to a point,,,,soils soaked with salts don't almost at all....to not at all..(don't use UREA based nutrition).



Gotta run ,, trap practice......