Help please. Leaves all turning yellow.

xtsho · Jul 10, 2020

See how the bloom has no calcium or magnesium? The micro has calcium but no magnesium. You need magnesium throughout the grow and it's not included in the micro or bloom which is odd and forces you to use their MagNifiCal product or add it with magnesium sulfate/epsom salts. I hate it when they do that. One of the reasons I have such a low opinion of many cannabis specific nutrient companies.

If you're growing in soil I'd use half what they say.

Regardless, Those plants are too far to recover in any meaningful way at this point. I would just give them the bloom and micro at half strength and ride it out until harvest. For your next grow you're going to want to get the Grow for veg and since they don't have any magnesium except for what's in the grow you'll need to either use their MagNifiCal or epsom salts in flower for the magnesium. I'd just go with the epsom salts as their calmag is 3-0-0 and you'll get plenty of nitrogen with the Micro and Bloom. I wouldn't bother with the Nature's Candy which is just sugars and magnesium sulfate or AstroFlower which is just monopotassium phosphate and potassium sulfate and already present in the Micro and Bloom. Both Natures candy and AstroFlower are extremely overpriced for what they are as is the VeloKelp.

All you need is the Grow, Micro, Bloom, and magnesium sulfate/epsom salts which can be had for a few dollars for a couple pounds at any drug store. Definitely don't let the the guys at the local shop tell you need the Nature's Candy or the AstroFlower.

For you're next grow I would go by this feed chart starting at half strength excluding the NC, AF and MagNifiCal. Start adding some Epsom when you switch to flower to replace the magnesium that's not included in either the Micro or the Bloom and call it a day.

Desmondg · Jul 10, 2020

Just tested my tap water and it was at 210. That was right out of the tap. I usually let it sit for 24 hours and then tap all the bubbles out. So I will get a reading tomorrow on the water. But if I understand correctly. If my water was say at 200ppm, I would want to try to get around 900ppm total as I am adding the nutes? And how do you know what ones to add and at how much of each one?

Desmondg · Jul 10, 2020

xtsho said:
See how the bloom has no calcium or magnesium? The micro has calcium but no magnesium. You need magnesium throughout the grow and it's not included in the micro or bloom which is odd and forces you to use their MagNifiCal product or add it with magnesium sulfate/epsom salts. I hate it when they do that. One of the reasons I have such a low opinion of many cannabis specific nutrient companies.

If you're growing in soil I'd use half what they say.

Regardless, Those plants are too far to recover in any meaningful way at this point. I would just give them the bloom and micro at half strength and ride it out until harvest. For your next grow you're going to want to get the Grow for veg and since they don't have any magnesium except for what's in the grow you'll need to either use their MagNifiCal or epsom salts in flower for the magnesium. I'd just go with the epsom salts as their calmag is 3-0-0 and you'll get plenty of nitrogen with the Micro and Bloom. I wouldn't bother with the Nature's Candy which is just sugars and magnesium sulfate or AstroFlower which is just monopotassium phosphate and potassium sulfate and already present in the Micro and Bloom. Both Natures candy and AstroFlower are extremely overpriced for what they are as is the VeloKelp.

All you need is the Grow, Micro, Bloom, and magnesium sulfate/epsom salts which can be had for a few dollars for a couple pounds at any drug store. Definitely don't let the the guys at the local shop tell you need the Nature's Candy or the AstroFlower.

For you're next grow I would go by this feed chart starting at half strength excluding the NC, AF and MagNifiCal. Start adding some Epsom when you switch to flower to replace the magnesium that's not included in either the Micro or the Bloom and call it a day.

Thank you sooooooooo much for this. I will do as I am told

and next time I will start off on the right foot. And this topic will be my reference as well. One other quick question. Do I feed every time? I see people do feed water water feed water feed water water feed.
I guess it all depends on medium, strain etc ?
Next round (which will be in a bout a month) I am going to try a different soil like HD? Or something and do a proper feeding schedule all the way from the beginning. Only going to try one plant this time. Building a strip led for my 4x4 tent. Want to try and keep it a little more simple and learn what the plants react to and stuff.

polishpollack · Jul 10, 2020

10m/gallon in weeks 5,6,7 means 10ml in week 5 in a gallon of water, then 10ml/gallon week six, then same for week 7. I think I'd only give it in week 5 and never again. take pics in white light only next time. can see true color in sodium or other colors.

Desmondg · Jul 10, 2020

polishpollack said:
10m/gallon in weeks 5,6,7 means 10ml in week 5 in a gallon of water, then 10ml/gallon week six, then same for week 7. I think I'd only give it in week 5 and never again. take pics in white light only next time. can see true color in sodium or other colors.

Ok. Ya next grow will be with nice leds. Sorry about the HPS. I will see if I can get enough natural light in there to get a couple better photos.

xtsho · Jul 10, 2020

Desmondg said:
Ok. Ya next grow will be with nice leds. Sorry about the HPS. I will see if I can get enough natural light in there to get a couple better photos.

Nothing wrong with HPS. Just get a picture right before or right after lightsgo on or off.

Desmondg · Jul 10, 2020

xtsho said:
Nothing wrong with HPS. Just get a picture right before or right after lightsgo on or off.

for sure. I love HPS. But I wanna try to save a bit on the hydro bill. And I want to build a cool led light

.

polishpollack · Jul 11, 2020

your lights run on water?

Desmondg · Jul 11, 2020

polishpollack said:
your lights run on water?

Huh?

spek9 · Jul 11, 2020

polishpollack said:
your lights run on water?

I suspect OP is in Canada. Many areas in Canada refer to electricity as "hydro", as, well, the electricity is generated by hydro-electric dams. Ontario and British Columbia are two provinces which use the term heavily. In fact, BC's electric company is "BC Hydro". Ontario's used to be named similarly, I don't know if it is anymore.

Desmondg · Jul 11, 2020

spek9 said:
I suspect OP is in Canada. Many areas in Canada refer to electricity as "hydro", as, well, the electricity is generated by hydro-electric dams. Ontario and British Columbia are two provinces which use the term heavily. In fact, BC's electric company is "BC Hydro". Ontario's used to be named similarly, I don't know if it is anymore.

Yep. Hydro = Electricity. Lol.

Desmondg · Jul 11, 2020

xtsho said:
See how the bloom has no calcium or magnesium? The micro has calcium but no magnesium. You need magnesium throughout the grow and it's not included in the micro or bloom which is odd and forces you to use their MagNifiCal product or add it with magnesium sulfate/epsom salts. I hate it when they do that. One of the reasons I have such a low opinion of many cannabis specific nutrient companies.

If you're growing in soil I'd use half what they say.

Regardless, Those plants are too far to recover in any meaningful way at this point. I would just give them the bloom and micro at half strength and ride it out until harvest. For your next grow you're going to want to get the Grow for veg and since they don't have any magnesium except for what's in the grow you'll need to either use their MagNifiCal or epsom salts in flower for the magnesium. I'd just go with the epsom salts as their calmag is 3-0-0 and you'll get plenty of nitrogen with the Micro and Bloom. I wouldn't bother with the Nature's Candy which is just sugars and magnesium sulfate or AstroFlower which is just monopotassium phosphate and potassium sulfate and already present in the Micro and Bloom. Both Natures candy and AstroFlower are extremely overpriced for what they are as is the VeloKelp.

All you need is the Grow, Micro, Bloom, and magnesium sulfate/epsom salts which can be had for a few dollars for a couple pounds at any drug store. Definitely don't let the the guys at the local shop tell you need the Nature's Candy or the AstroFlower.

For you're next grow I would go by this feed chart starting at half strength excluding the NC, AF and MagNifiCal. Start adding some Epsom when you switch to flower to replace the magnesium that's not included in either the Micro or the Bloom and call it a day.

Wondering....... I need to wait till the soil is nice and dry before I feed again correct? I still have a day for sure before they will be nice and dry and ready for next watering/feeding. Don’t want to mess this up.

xtsho · Jul 11, 2020

Desmondg said:
Wondering....... I need to wait till the soil is nice and dry before I feed again correct? I still have a day for sure before they will be nice and dry and ready for next watering/feeding. Don’t want to mess this up.

You don't want it to dry out completely but you don't want it wet.

Here's a snippet I took from the VitaGrow website:

"Most gardeners let their plants soil dry out a little before watering or fertilizing without knowing why. Here’s why. As the surface of the soil dries small air passages are formed allowing atmosphere to enter the root zone. Soil that is kept constantly moist won’t have these small air passages. Without the benefit of additional oxygen, air loving roots and needed bio-organisms can’t survive. Roots begin to turn brown when rot sets in. Remember, roots love to have our atmosphere around them because it contains oxygen."

Desmondg · Jul 11, 2020

xtsho said:
You don't want it to dry out completely but you don't want it wet.

Here's a snippet I took from the VitaGrow website:

"Most gardeners let their plants soil dry out a little before watering or fertilizing without knowing why. Here’s why. As the surface of the soil dries small air passages are formed allowing atmosphere to enter the root zone. Soil that is kept constantly moist won’t have these small air passages. Without the benefit of additional oxygen, air loving roots and needed bio-organisms can’t survive. Roots begin to turn brown when rot sets in. Remember, roots love to have our atmosphere around them because it contains oxygen."

So I have been wondering about something with air bubbles and water and stuff. Is there a benefit to have an air stone in your water with nutes and stuff for a day or 2 before feeding? Would that help with adding co2 or am I way off on this?

xtsho · Jul 11, 2020

Desmondg said:
So I have been wondering about something with air bubbles and water and stuff. Is there a benefit to have an air stone in your water with nutes and stuff for a day or 2 before feeding? Would that help with adding co2 or am I way off on this?

You're not adding Co2 you're adding oxygen. And yes it's beneficial to bubble your nutrient solution. But a small pond pump placed on the bottom of what you're mixing in pointed up will oxygenate the solution better than airstones due to the amount of surface area that continuously turned over making contact with the air. There's a term for it by I can't think of it right now.

So bubble away. It's not going to add much dissolved oxygen but more oxygen at the root zone is always better. Roots take oxygen through respiration similar to humans using our lungs when we breathe. That's why over watering is bad. There needs to be small pockets that contain air for the roots to get the oxygen they need. If we were stuck underwater and couldn't breathe we'd drown. The same thing happens to plants when they can't take in oxygen through their roots because they are drowning.

Desmondg · Jul 11, 2020

xtsho said:
You're not adding Co2 you're adding oxygen. And yes it's beneficial to bubble your nutrient solution. But a small pond pump placed on the bottom of what you're mixing in pointed up will oxygenate the solution better than airstones due to the amount of surface area that continuously turned over making contact with the air. There's a term for it by I can't think of it right now.

So bubble away. It's not going to add much dissolved oxygen but more oxygen at the root zone is always better. Roots take oxygen through respiration similar to humans using our lungs when we breathe. That's why over watering is bad. There needs to be small pockets that contain air for the roots to get the oxygen they need. If we were stuck underwater and couldn't breathe we'd drown. The same thing happens to plants when they can't take in oxygen through their roots because they are drowning.

Awesome. Thanks. This has been a great journy so far. Learning lot’s and having a blast

Desmondg · Jul 12, 2020

xtsho said:
You don't want it to dry out completely but you don't want it wet.

Here's a snippet I took from the VitaGrow website:

"Most gardeners let their plants soil dry out a little before watering or fertilizing without knowing why. Here’s why. As the surface of the soil dries small air passages are formed allowing atmosphere to enter the root zone. Soil that is kept constantly moist won’t have these small air passages. Without the benefit of additional oxygen, air loving roots and needed bio-organisms can’t survive. Roots begin to turn brown when rot sets in. Remember, roots love to have our atmosphere around them because it contains oxygen."

Wow... I am for sure underfeeding these poor girls.. I think a huge part of the grow

So I picked up a PPM Meter the other day as well and decided to do some testing as to what I was feeding before and what I should be at roughly now.... WAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYY out.... See below...

This is in 1.5 litres of tap water...

Tap Water alone was - PH 7.9 and PPM 215. This is after 24 hours of sitting.
Added 2ml of Remo Micro - PH 7.6 and PPM 430
Added 2ml of Remo Bloom - PH 6.6 and PPM 557
Went back and addedd 1ml of each again and got PH to 6.4 and PPM to 740

Added .5 ml of Cal/Mag from GH - PH 6.3 and PPM 752
So if I am understanding this correctly, the PPM of nutes I added is 537??

I was only adding the bloom to my water when feeding so I made up a batch and tested what it was at.... PH 6.7 and PPM 370!!! so that is really bad. only 155ppm of nutes feeding these poor ladies.. Yep I am a newbie... But this has been a great learning opportunity for me

and many thanks to all of you for helping me out.... Here are some pics I got before lights on today as well...

kingkush4200 · Jul 27, 2020

They look nice just very underfed.
With a organic Soil like ocean forest etc I usually would wait a few weeks of veg before I start feeding with Remos, like 3weeks.
Just give everything half strength to start, then taper up to full feeding by the time you want to switch to flower... every water increase 0.5 ML of all nutes until you get to that 8ml / Gallon for flower for example. The only thing to watch out for is if you have hard water with lots of calcium in it or your soil mix is nitrogen heavy careful with the cal mag in soil grows can give young plants Nit tox... my experiences. 210 ppm tap water is ok water.

With promix I feed remos every watering starting at 50%-75% again tapering up to full strength but you water more often with promix and it holds more nutrient charge then coco so I find in veg I often stay around 75% until I flip if everything is looking good... Some plants just feed heavier and you gotta adjust things.

Coco I just mix 75% strength the feed chart for that week and feed every day in veg, if they look totally fine and im pushing clones to get big I will go 100% the recommended feed

soil you need to be a little more careful with ppms early on, the plant will overdose on the chelated nutrients then continue eating the soils food.
veg600-800ppm / Flower 800-1100ppm ph 6.5

I aim for these numbers. you usually get a good PH with remos once you start using near full strength and i hardly ever PH balance, only my coco do I really monitor and I find I really dont need to but still... its easy enough
Promix
veg 700-900 ppm / Flower 800-1150 ppm 5.9-6.5 ph

Coco
Veg 700-1000 ppm / Flower 800-1150 ppm 5.8-6.2 ph

Good luck dude you can still perhaps salvage this run and be more prepared for the next one for sure!

Desmondg · Jul 27, 2020

kingkush4200 said:
They look nice just very underfed.
With a organic Soil like ocean forest etc I usually would wait a few weeks of veg before I start feeding with Remos, like 3weeks.
Just give everything half strength to start, then taper up to full feeding by the time you want to switch to flower... every water increase 0.5 ML of all nutes until you get to that 8ml / Gallon for flower for example. The only thing to watch out for is if you have hard water with lots of calcium in it or your soil mix is nitrogen heavy careful with the cal mag in soil grows can give young plants Nit tox... my experiences. 210 ppm tap water is ok water.

With promix I feed remos every watering starting at 50%-75% again tapering up to full strength but you water more often with promix and it holds more nutrient charge then coco so I find in veg I often stay around 75% until I flip if everything is looking good... Some plants just feed heavier and you gotta adjust things.

Coco I just mix 75% strength the feed chart for that week and feed every day in veg, if they look totally fine and im pushing clones to get big I will go 100% the recommended feed

soil you need to be a little more careful with ppms early on, the plant will overdose on the chelated nutrients then continue eating the soils food.
veg600-800ppm / Flower 800-1100ppm ph 6.5

I aim for these numbers. you usually get a good PH with remos once you start using near full strength and i hardly ever PH balance, only my coco do I really monitor and I find I really dont need to but still... its easy enough
Promix
veg 700-900 ppm / Flower 800-1150 ppm 5.9-6.5 ph

Coco
Veg 700-1000 ppm / Flower 800-1150 ppm 5.8-6.2 ph

Good luck dude you can still perhaps salvage this run and be more prepared for the next one for sure!

Thank you sooooo much @kingkush4200 helps a ton! Ya I did up my nutes to around 925 the last few feeds. Everything seems to be going ok. I believe around August 10th I will be harvesting but I have been keeping an eye on the trichs and waiting to get around 20% amber. I sure have learned a lot this round about feeding and lighting etc. I do plan to grow only one plant next round and use a diy led that I am going to build. Try to dial in on understanding more what the plant needs and wants, and with the LED, I will be able to see better

that orange HPS sucks

. But grows nice. Buds are looking great and smell awesome

kingkush4200 · Jul 27, 2020

Hey man no worries

how many weeks is that now? they look good really plumped up,

With Leds unless you buy a high end one like a gavita or HLG 550 etc... your end flower will not compete with a 600watt+ HID lamp

hehe I don't advise changing to a LED unless its a really high end one for flowering so you can see the leaves. You will likely be disappointed brother. Just use a flashlight or take them outside the room if you want to see the leaves.

I had a friend buy 2 blurples I told him the company says they are 1000watts but the actual draw and umol/ is low etc ... he didnt listen for 2 grows and 2 grows he got fluff.... he came to me defeated after the second grow failed and said " why dont my buds look like yours" and I gave him some tough love after countless times telling him in a nice way to use my spare 600w, power bill $$$ bla bla... I finally said dude your buds are fluff because you bought 2x 90$ Chinese blurple pieces of shit and ignored my advice, thats why your bud is fluffy ass nicklefritz... long story short, he used a 600watt the next run, and pulled like 620 grams which is pretty fucking badass tbh...

Stick with the Hps, for flower. Dial in your feedings maintain that environment and the next round will be twice as good.

drying and curing - Cut the plant down at the stock and hang it whole with fan leaves and all. 60degrees 60% humidity for 14days ish - then jars and cure

Cheers brother, they really recovered from the before pics

Help please. Leaves all turning yellow.

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