Help please with insulation

New guy joe

Member
this is my plan for the layout. 2 rooms, 5X5X7 side by side, 1000w in each room a/c hoods. Carbon filter attached to hood in flower room so it will be running all the time. Veg just an exhaust fan with themostat controller. I will be running co2 in the flower room with regulator and timer until money is available for a controller.

This is where my questions are. I will be doing this room in a portable garage outside. Size is about 20x10x10-7 (tallest point to lowest for roof) it is One that completely zips up. I will then be framing out both rooms with wood inside of it so they can be secure but I'm not sure what to use to insulate them. I've heard some people using reflectix as its reflective and insulation. Also seen people use eurathane foam. I could also just get foam pannals. Has anyone built a room out of wood in an uninsulated area like this? If so what has worked for insulation then what has worked in part with that as reflective material. I prefer to buy something that is going to last.

If you do recommend an item please detail what the best way to put it up.
Thank you
Stay happy and high
 

New guy joe

Member
If I could achieve both I would be pleased, but mostly to keep the temps constant during the winter and summer.
 

BarnBuster

Virtually Unknown Member
and Mr Murphy says remember to plan for the worst, say if you got mites or PM and had to sterilize the area. make sure your materials will allow that. PPPPPPP.
 

jijiandfarmgang

Well-Known Member
Reflectix has its purpose but it has a low R value for insulating a room. And its not cheap. I think most people just use fiberglass and drywall with a white paint. Or panda film, or even better Orca. Or if you want to sacrifice a little bit of reflection and want to be able to spray the walls, FRP.

- Jiji
 

Merkin Donor

Well-Known Member
Spray foam has the best R value and also air seals when its applied. Polyiso closed-cell, rigid foam board panels cut to size and foamed into place would be a close second but more effort to install. Fiberglass is the least expensive but the worst performer and believe it or not, it's very difficult to install correctly. Blown in cellulose is one of the best when it comes to price vs performance but given the potential for moisture issues with regards to indoor agriculture I'd not recommend it.
For insulation to be effective it needs an air barrier and it must have constant contact with all six sides of the cavity (walls). The foams easily achieve this and cellulose along with the use of spray foam (the cans) will do the same. The big issue with fiberglass is getting that contact with all sides of the cavity being filled or installers just shoving it in and around plumbing and electrical along with compressing the fibers too much. If it's in the budget I'd go spray foam, you can get the two part rigs and DIY or go the polyiso panel route.
 

CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
What is your budget like? Are you building wall panels like you would a normal home or just making a frame out of 2" x 4" lumber and sheeting it with plywood or similar? What are the high/low temps like there summer/winter? Closed cell polyurethane would be number one choice if budget calls for it because it will give you the insulation along with vapor barrier in one application and an R-value around 5-6/inch. Extruded polystyrene rigid insulation (Foam board) would probably be second choice. Just make sure to tape all seams with sheathing house wrap tape to achieve the required vapor barrier. This will give you R-5/inch also. After that would be regular batt (Fiberglass/Stonewool) which will achieve around R-4/inch but you will also need to install a 6 mil vapor barrier ( Polyethylene) over this and tape all seams. These would be listed from most expensive to cheapest.
 

New guy joe

Member
My budget for room set up including wood (yes I will be framing with 2x4) and insulation is around 150$ to 300$.

First off thank you all. The quickness is appreciated.

I'm in the northwest (oregrowing ;) high temps in the summer this year have been from 80 to even a record setting 107. Although this type of extreme heat is not an often occurrence it does happen. Winter it does drop down to freezing. Lowest I've seen is high 20s. Mostly staying in the 35-60 range.

Fiberglass isn't really an option since the issues with mold.

The options now seem to be
a) foam board
B) spray foam.

Seems both are very insulated with spray being better for all around leak proof while foam board is cheaper? Yet a little more work to install.

Sound isn't a huge issue but I which one would be more soundproof?

Btw I would be buying either panda film or some Mylar to put on top of either for the reflective. Most likely panda film since I've read it is easy to clean and less likely to rip when handling.
 

CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
If you install the batt (Fiberglass/Stonewool) right with a properly sealed vapor barrier there wouldn't be any mold issues. I would think that both spray and foam board would have similar sound deadening capabilities. Foam board is relatively simple to install. Just cut to fit with a sharp knife and then tape all seams. Spray foam can be harder to find at times depending on area and can be relatively simple to hard depending on your skills. It's not easy to get a uniform coat if you have never done it before. 2" thick foam board R-10 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-FOAMULAR-150-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-R-10-Scored-Squared-Edge-Insulation-Sheathing-45W/100320352

Here is a link to some diy spray foam kits also http://tigerfoam.com/
 

CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
Not sure on pricing in your area, Maybe cheaper then here but $150-$300 seems a bit low to complete the task at hand. Good luck and feel free to ask any other questions. If I can help I will.
 

New guy joe

Member
Well it seams that the foam pad is more economical for what I'm doing. Also it seams I would be able to take it down when moving and use it again.

With the link you sent my math comes out to needing 6 of those foam pads to do a 5x5x7 room. Roughly about 180$. That is definitely do able since my good friend works at Home Depot and I can receive a discount.

As for the edges of the panals should I get a small bottle of spray to seal or would tape work?
 

New guy joe

Member
Spray foam has the best R value and also air seals when its applied. Polyiso closed-cell, rigid foam board panels cut to size and foamed into place would be a close second but more effort to install. Fiberglass is the least expensive but the worst performer and believe it or not, it's very difficult to install correctly. Blown in cellulose is one of the best when it comes to price vs performance but given the potential for moisture issues with regards to indoor agriculture I'd not recommend it.
For insulation to be effective it needs an air barrier and it must have constant contact with all six sides of the cavity (walls). The foams easily achieve this and cellulose along with the use of spray foam (the cans) will do the same. The big issue with fiberglass is getting that contact with all sides of the cavity being filled or installers just shoving it in and around plumbing and electrical along with compressing the fibers too much. If it's in the budget I'd go spray foam, you can get the two part rigs and DIY or go the polyiso panel route.
Is blown in cellulose the same as the foam board me and Canada one are talking about? Or is that something else?

I guess my question is does the foam board have moisture issues.
 

New guy joe

Member
R13 foam insulation in between OSB plywood sheathing and drywall. stick some panda film over the interior wall. done.
What is OSB plywood sheathing. And is it not a good idea to put panda film directly on the r-13 insulation foam? Is drywall necessary?

OSB is particul board correct?
 

UncleBuck

Well-Known Member
What is OSB plywood sheathing. And is it not a good idea to put panda film directly on the r-13 insulation foam? Is drywall necessary?

OSB is particul board correct?
OSB is oriented strand board. it is the cheapest plywood you can buy, about $8 for a 4x8 at home depot.

i built a 10x16 room in my garage, which is really loose. gets down to 30 in the winter and up to 90 in the summer.

after framing out the room, i put OSB sheathing on the exterior. i used "good stuff", it is a spray foam insulator for any cracks and gaps between the plywood and the framing. then i rolled out the insulation.

i did put the panda film right over the R13 (i ran out of money) but it is not a good idea. with negative pressure, the sides will balloon out a bit. no bueno. i'll be putting drywall in one of these days. good for fire safety as well.
 

New guy joe

Member
Okay thank you, I found a good drywall at Home Depot that is mold resistant and firecode, no point spending over 300$ on foam pannals if my negative pressure ruins them over time. Thank you.

I will be going with exactly what you said,
Thank you all for the information I know feel like I'm making the best bang for my buck with a reliable grow room.
Stay happy and high everyone.
Will be setting up in about 1-2 weeks.
If anyone wants pictures I will post.
 

UncleBuck

Well-Known Member
also, insulate your floor. lay down a floating floor the size of your planned room. lay your 2x4s on the 3.5 inch side, so that the tops are 1.5 inches off the floor. lay some more 2x4s across, spaced so that your plywood will hit 50/50 on the boards. use 1.5'' rigid foam boards and lay them right on the floor. you'll need to cut them to size. then stagger your plywood when you lay it out on top, you don't want four corners all hitting at the same place. screw it all into place and then you can start framing.

if you have a carpenter or handyman buddy, buy them lunch and a six pack and have them come over to help you. you want to do this right the first time. a well insulated room will pay itself back int he first grow.

my harvests nearly doubled in size versus just growing in an open garage with minimal heating/cooling.
 

New guy joe

Member
also, insulate your floor. lay down a floating floor the size of your planned room. lay your 2x4s on the 3.5 inch side, so that the tops are 1.5 inches off the floor. lay some more 2x4s across, spaced so that your plywood will hit 50/50 on the boards. use 1.5'' rigid foam boards and lay them right on the floor. you'll need to cut them to size. then stagger your plywood when you lay it out on top, you don't want four corners all hitting at the same place. screw it all into place and then you can start framing.

if you have a carpenter or handyman buddy, buy them lunch and a six pack and have them come over to help you. you want to do this right the first time. a well insulated room will pay itself back int he first grow.

my harvests nearly doubled in size versus just growing in an open garage with minimal heating/cooling.
I was thinking about using pallets to create the flood would that be possible with this.

Also with what you described do I need to worry about water getting into the floor and soaking the foam. Or should I put down a liner after its built?

If so what's a good liner that's some what reflective.
 
Top