Help - Plugs on lights are weird

HowardWCampbell

HowardWCampbell

New Member
DannyGreenEyes said:
The ballast sais "input: 120/208/240/277v 60Hz
Documentation that came with the light sais

"Plug the ballast into any household grounded outlet or appliance-duty 15 amp (or higher amperage) timer. Note: Ballast automatically turns on once it is plugged into a power source. If using other voltage is desired, please contact a qualified electrician to make the correct rewiring to the ballast cores multi-volt power leads. This ballast will accept 120/208/240/277v power sources, it comes prewired for 120v household voltage."

When I ordered the lights she asked if I needed 110v and I told her no, I need 220v. She said it had to be rewired, but I'm not sure if she just meant the end of the power cord or internal wiring. After inheriting a house in NY and upgrading the old 110v electric to 220v I thought I had a pretty good handle on the difference between 110v & 220v, but I guess I misunderstood some things.

I just got back from Home Depot, I bought 3 outlets that will fit the plugs, 3 outlet boxes, 3 face plates, some fasteners for electrical cords, a 10ft piece of 10 guage wire, and a regular end that I can plug into a regual outlet. Only cost $50 so I saved myself about $100 ($150 - the cost of 3 custom extension cords). I think I'm ok, I just need to know if I need to bring these things to an electrician to have the ballasts rewired. I hope not.
Click to expand...
Cool, it's convertible. Their should be a wiring diagram either in the manual, or perhaps inside the ballast itself. If you have some electrical experience it's probably not very difficult to change. It may be as simple as moving a switch, or it may require moving some wires internally. Did it come with any extra cordsets, perhaps one that already has a standard 110v plug on it?

If you already have a 220v circuit in the room, it may be easier to just change the outlet. If you are unsure about the voltage, you can get a cheap tester for about $5. But if it looks like a standard household plug, it's gonna be 110v. You CAN NOT plug a 220v light in to a 110v outlet without following the necessary steps to convert the ballast to 110v.
 
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DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
So if it's 220v then it will only work with the plugs for the stove & dryer? (fridge has a regular plug)

That's not an option, only have 1 plug for my stove. Washer & Dryer are stackable and are squeezed into a "washer/dryer closet" so tight, I'll never get to the plug without pulling out the whole washer & dryer which I'll need a special dolly to do.

Logic tells me that if I disconnect the wire labeled 220v in the ballast and attatch the wire labeled 110v then I just rewired the ballast. Anyone know if it's really that easy with ballasts that have multi-volt power leads?
 
scooby33

scooby33

Well-Known Member
thats what it says This ballast will accept 120/208/240/277v power sources, just change the wire
 
HowardWCampbell

HowardWCampbell

New Member
DannyGreenEyes said:
So if it's 220v then it will only work with the plugs for the stove & dryer? (fridge has a regular plug)

That's not an option, only have 1 plug for my stove. Washer & Dryer are stackable and are squeezed into a "washer/dryer closet" so tight, I'll never get to the plug without pulling out the whole washer & dryer which I'll need a special dolly to do.

Logic tells me that if I disconnect the wire labeled 220v in the ballast and attatch the wire labeled 110v then I just rewired the ballast. Anyone know if it's really that easy with ballasts that have multi-volt power leads?
Click to expand...
I would double check the instructions just to be safe, but that sounds right.
 
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DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
There are no wiring instructions. I'm going to post some pics just so there's no mistakes.

The first pic is the diagram on the side of the ballast.

The second pic is just a birds eye view of the clusterfuck of wires.

The third pic is the wire labeled 120v, as you can see it's unattatched to anything.

The fourth pic is the wire labeled 240v and as you can see it's jumpered in using one of those wire connectors.

The only other labeled wire is Com which according to the diagram should always be wired no matter what voltage is being used, at least if I'm reading the diagram right.

So what does everyone think, will disconnecting the 240v wire and connecting the 120v where you disconnected the 240v wire do the trick?
 

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scooby33

scooby33

Well-Known Member
as you can see on the diagram m8 the diferance between 110 and 240 is the position on the coil if you put 110 higher on the coil it just wont work you will be safe to change the suplyed wire and plug it in
 
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DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
scooby33 said:
as you can see on the diagram m8 the diferance between 110 and 240 is the position on the coil if you put 110 higher on the coil it just wont work you will be safe to change the suplyed wire and plug it in
Click to expand...

I didn't follow that. Are you saying that disconnecting the 220v wire & connecting the 110v wire isn't all there is to it?

It sounds like you're saying that I have to do something to the coil as well.
 
Roland

Roland

Active Member
Hold on buddy .. Your plug is 220/240 Volt .. made to plug into a 220/240 receptacle ... u need a 220/240 circuit ... properly wired

above was correct .. if you plug it into 110/120V circuit .. it won't work ...

240 requiers two "Hots" and needs to come from an appropriate 2 pole Cicuit breaker .. it has a Ground ... for protection from shock ...

Do NOT twist "prongs" on plug to "make 'em fit
 
Roland

Roland

Active Member
You can rewire the ballast for 110 .. then just change the plug end to a normal 110 plug
 
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DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
Roland said:
Hold on buddy .. Your plug is 220/240 Volt .. made to plug into a 220/240 receptacle ... u need a 220/240 circuit ... properly wired

above was correct .. if you plug it into 110/120V circuit .. it won't work ...

240 requiers two "Hots" and needs to come from an appropriate 2 pole Cicuit breaker .. it has a Ground ... for protection from shock ...

Do NOT twist "prongs" on plug to "make 'em fit
Click to expand...

I don't have any free 220v outlets and I'm in an apartment so I'm not about to start rewiring the circuit breaker.

I have to rewire the ballast so it's a 110v otherwise I have to send it back to the Mfg to rewire which is the last alternative.

I need help rewiring the balast cores multi-volt power leads.

After that I can either cut off the plug and put on a normal one, or I can set up that home made estension cord to fit the odd plugs. That part I already figured out.
 
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DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
Only came with 1 plug and the mfg rewired the ballast for 220v at my request (big newbie mistake). So I have to rewire the balast and either change the plug myself, or make a special extension cord for it.

What's M8?
 
Roland

Roland

Active Member
You are reading the wiring diagram correctly ... with 120 Com is the neutral .. (White from source ) and Hot ..(black ) goes to the wire labeled 110/120 .. and they need to be matched at the new plug
 
scooby33

scooby33

Well-Known Member
plug your light into it use your made up lead plug it into 110 it wont hurt it if it is wrong as you are useing the lowest volts
 
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DannyGreenEyes

Well-Known Member
Roland
The rewiring of the ballast & the plug are 2 seperate issues.

The pics show which wires I think need to be rewired.

Once I have it wired for 110v the plug will be no problem, I have that solved.

Scooby
I'm not plugging it in till I know I have everything right. Good rule to live by when you have bad luck :)
 
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