Help with figuring out this problem

NemoClones

NemoClones

Member
I'm growing in 30 gallon pots. They've been in these pots for about 2-3 weeks. I haven't been feeding it yet. Just straight water. The guy at my hydro shop said I can go 6 weeks with straight water.. I have 12 plants and this is the only one yellowing at the tips like this
 

Attachments

  • signal-2019-06-10-074505.jpg
    signal-2019-06-10-074505.jpg
    305.3 KB · Views: 51
calmag, the straight water is leaching your roots, and probably over watering. 200PPMs of Calmag is a MUST

What media u use?
 
InTheValley said:
calmag, the straight water is leaching your roots, and probably over watering. 200PPMs of Calmag is a MUST

What media u use?
Click to expand...
200ppms of Calmag in soil is a must? In soil, I'd try adding a good base nutrient first, then if the problem persists and symptoms of calcium, magnesium, and/or iron deficiency continue, then add the calmag.
 
NemoClones said:
I'm growing in 30 gallon pots. They've been in these pots for about 2-3 weeks. I haven't been feeding it yet. Just straight water. The guy at my hydro shop said I can go 6 weeks with straight water.. I have 12 plants and this is the only one yellowing at the tips like this
Click to expand...

The guy at my hydro shop said I was going to be a famous porn star...and we all know how that turned out.

that is a "K" deficiency start feeding your plants
get a microbe product
 
hotrodharley said:
There’s absolutely no soil in that mix. You need to adjust the pH and you need to feed them.
Click to expand...
That absolutely IS soil, just because it has coco in it, doesnt mean is just simply not soil.

and you dont to adjust PH, because it does it itself.

These need dryd out to 25%, and add only Calmag.

Your getting them to wet, water, dont soak. Your washing out the good stuff that was amended in the SOIL. What light you using, and what nutes do you have?

Not sure its a K problem, looks more on the cal side. K problems start on the entire leaf edges.
 
InTheValley said:
That absolutely IS soil, just because it has coco in it, doesnt mean is just simply not soil.

and you dont to adjust PH, because it does it itself.

These need dryd out to 25%, and add only Calmag.

Your getting them to wet, water, dont soak. Your washing out the good stuff that was amended in the SOIL. What light you using, and what nutes do you have?

Not sure its a K problem, looks more on the cal side. K problems start on the entire leaf edges.
Click to expand...
“The secret recipe grower formula for vital growth and optimum impact. This Recipe 420 blend is a special blend of ingredients hand selected specifically for the needs of professional flower growers. Our 100% natural & organic formula is carefully crafted to provide the ideal conditions for cut flower production. Recipe 420 is a blend of premium Aged Forest Products, Coir, Sphagnum Peat Moss, Pumice, Earthworm Castings, Feather Meal, Seabird Guano, Crab Meal, Fish Bone Meal, Humic Acid from Leonardite, Gypsum, Oystershell Lime (pH adjuster), Dolomite Lime (pH adjuster), Bat Guano, Kelp Meal and Wetting agent (Yucca Schidigera Saponin) enhanced with Mycorrhizal fungi and beneficial soil bacteria. For Best results, always use our Sure Start.”

Do you actually know what “soil” or “dirt” is? It’s not fucking dirt. But whatever.
 
InTheValley said:
That absolutely IS soil, just because it has coco in it, doesnt mean is just simply not soil.
Click to expand...
Soil what you would see if you dug a hole in the ground outside. Dirt is what you track inside after digging said hole. What you have is a peatmoss, core based soilless growing media. Huge difference in how they are treated for growing.
 
On the "soil" issue.

What are "Aged forest products?"
Then coco then peat....Hmm, A ton of organic nutrient sources......Living bio's in the form of Bacteria's and Fungus. This formula must be "cooked" to be effective.....
Bottom line?
This is an organic soil. Derived partially from non-mainstream parts BUT, it should still be called a soil as it's cooked and broken down.....By bio activity...It is self feeding soil too. How long it lasts is dependent on the amounts of nutrient material used.
BTW, the coco is in there as a way to hold more moisture, longer.
Dolo is used for the Mg, high Mg that should hold on for the need of it with coco use, The Cal in that form too - same reason.

@NemoClones

As for the problem? Looks like the soil has hot and cold spots......I would like a better pic of the whole plant PLEASE.
Another question is,,,,Is that the only plant your running in that right now? How do those others look?

First impression is an N def.....No pH issue but, want that whole plant pic.
NOT a Cal or Mg issue at all!

Why does Cal and Mg seem to be the starting point for so many?
 
Because Mag is the most needed nute in a good garden, its the first thing that gets depleted if there isnt enough of it because it is the main function for photosynthesis. And when people drive the LEDs so hard on the plants, the MAG uptake is accelerated, NOT CAL, just mag, and then potassium, this is why many peoples plants go to shit in week 2-3 of flower.

I still say, its over watered, because its being treated like HYDRO, and the roots are rotting because Mag isnt being uptaken because of the constant dampness of the root ball.

that plant is in a 30 gallon pot, it shouldnt needed watered for 2 dang weeks AT LEAST.

HYDRO, is when you pour water, and the container doesnt hold any, OR your roots LIVE IN JUST WATER AND NUTES,
 
InTheValley said:
Because Mag is the most needed nute in a good garden, its the first thing that gets depleted if there isnt enough of it because it is the main function for photosynthesis. And when people drive the LEDs so hard on the plants, the MAG uptake is accelerated, NOT CAL, just mag, and then potassium, this is why many peoples plants go to shit in week 2-3 of flower.

I still say, its over watered, because its being treated like HYDRO, and the roots are rotting because Mag isnt being uptaken because of the constant dampness of the root ball.

that plant is in a 30 gallon pot, it shouldnt needed watered for 2 dang weeks AT LEAST.

HYDRO, is when you pour water, and the container doesnt hold any, OR your roots LIVE IN JUST WATER AND NUTES,
Click to expand...

Over use of Mag is way to common!

High Mag and high K,,,,REDUCE THC PRODUCTION!

Those plants show NO need for Mag. No need for Cal!
They are not drooping like an over watered plant either.

I don't care how big a pot you use. "I" would still find an amount to water it everyday at lights on. Enough to carry it over till the next day.....
I might say he has an uptake issue.. Maybe some nice Kelp extract or some quality Humic use might help BUT, I still need to see the pics I ask for to give a direct answer...

Mag is NOT the "most needed nutrient" in a garden either. Where did you get that idea? In reality, it's S (sulfur) that is so needed by about every plant process. That it's constantly being debated that it be moved to the MACRO nutrient list! If your using soil and use added organic nutrients to build that soil.....You have plenty of Mag for a run....

There are strains that are "Mag hogs"! GG and some of the cookies family are quite the Mag hogs....Still, it's NOT all strains or even the majority of them that like more or extra Mag..

The use of Dolomite lime in organic growing should be done with great care! Very easy to over do Mag when you use it....Any style growing (cannabis) really....
 
huh, ok, Im hearing you man, Im not being a know it all, im not an expert. I just know, since i HAVENT been adding calmag from start to finish in some fashion, my plants go to hell 3 weeks into flower. since i started to add calmag, or mag, they got better. I actually saved my current from death, just by adding just calmag, and now she is full steam ahead. My problem i think is I use cocoloco, and i start giving them nutes to early, and was giving them to many at the time till i learned the PPM to watts ratio. Now i wait till the most bottom leaves turn pale, then add ppms to the water. Im doing a very strict "figure it out" thing now, lol..

Im just saying, since ive added calmag, and then my flowering plant just mag, it has really changed the growth almost instantly. Stopped the leaf symptoms in their tracks. If any constellation, all my strains have some sort of OG in them,

Thanks for the lesson man, writing it down in my book after i finish this.
 
Dr. Who said:
Why does Cal and Mg seem to be the starting point for so many?
Click to expand...

It's the goto fix all apparently. One reason is that many nutrient lines leave it out so they can sell you another bottle of stuff. I grow in coco and I never use calmag. I never used it in flood and drain hydro either. But when your nutrients have enough cal and mag in it already it isn't necessary. Another thing that seems to be the goto these days is checking runoff pH in soil. It doesn't tell what the pH actually is but there are some youtube video's of some dude doing it and then flooding his medium with pH'd water until the runoff is where they want it. People would be better off if they didn't follow the advice of some dude with crappy looking burned up plants on youtube. Ok, got off topic but the runoff pH is just another example of the herd mentality.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top