Help with possible ph problem

Dontjudgeme said:

Getting your hands on a functional ph meter would be in your best interest especially if you plan on bottle feeding, otherwise you’re just guessing.

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Renfro said:

Even better, get a good soil pH meter like the blue lab. This will measure liquid pH just fine but also allows you to quantify the root zone pH in your soil. This is key because it's often way different than your feed pH.

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Wattzzup said:

Do recommend ph’ing organic soil?

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Renfro said:

I have never grown organic soil and never will. Too much guess work and not enough control (control freak here lol). I personally believe that pH matters regardless of organics or not and that some who claim pH is not important with organic soil are just lucky.

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Wattzzup said:

I might give it another go down the road. But it takes so damn long to see if what you added makes any difference.

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Renfro said:

Agreed. Such a guessing game. Bottle fed is just so much easier to tune on the fly.

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Renfro said:

Gimme chelated salts anyday.

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Labradorweed said:

I’m trying to figure out why this plant is turning yellow. It doesn’t seem to be affecting one area more than the other necessarily although you can see down below where the smaller buds are the leaves are quite green. Fan leaves towards the bottom are yellowing and on the top.

I’m 21 days into flowering. I need to fix this problem now if I’m going to get anything worthwhile off this planet. I’m using general organics Lyne and I will have to admit I have not been Testing PH because if you have good enough organic soil then it’s not a issue. I’m only in 3 gallon pots and I did add some super soil ingredients to the mixture but I’ve only been using a small amount of liquid nutes. The plant seems to be thriving except for the yellowing. I fed it one watering ago. I flushed it yesterday. My well water is right around pH 6.8 to 7. My pH meter is a pretty shitty but it gives me a roundabout answer so I know it’s fairly close to being on point.

It shouldn’t be a nitrogen problem especially 21 days in.

Thank you for any help I may receive

Oh my other plants are in 5 gallon super soil. this was an extra one that I tossed in and figured I’d use some liquid nutes from last year

Let me know if you need any more information. Every other plan I have is doing excellent except for this one. It’s got to be something with the PH or something else I’m not thinking of.

If pH is my problem then I’m not sure what to do at this point. I flushed it yesterday and it doesn’t seem to be getting better. Maybe it needs a heavy feeding? I don’t think it needs a heavy feeding because it got a really solid feeding two waters ago in the problem got worse

thank you

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Renfro said:

I have never grown organic soil and never will. Too much guess work and not enough control (control freak here lol). I personally believe that pH matters regardless of organics or not and that some who claim pH is not important with organic soil are just lucky.

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Wattzzup said:

Then my micros decide they don’t want to do shit that day. Lazy bastards!

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Labradorweed said:

You should read up on super soil and no-till organic farming those people would disagree with you. When you have a heavy microbial activity pH is almost irrelevant.

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Dontjudgeme said:

Are the plants all the same strain? And I must say, that’s the first time I’ve ever heard of having organic soil that doesn’t require ph’ing, or any other soil for that matter, but I won’t discredit the possibility of that being true. I’ve always ph’d my water, no matter how I am growing. But aside from that, flushing can sometimes make things worse. For me it’s never really been necessary. If I notice an issue and feel it’s toxicity related, I just stop feeding and only supply water until I see the problem go away. The leafs with the yellowing unfortunately won’t go back to being green. If you flushed her heavily I would feed to make up for whatever you washed out of the soil. If you bottle feed, I’m fairly confident that the ph of your water after adding the Nutes went down. If you didn’t “ Ph up “ to 6.5-7, the plant never utilized what you fed it. I grow organically myself, and while I don’t necessarily have to ph in between feedings, I do have to ph when adding things like molasses, kelp, guano, and calmag if it calls for it. Getting your hands on a functional ph meter would be in your best interest especially if you plan on bottle feeding, otherwise you’re just guessing.

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Dontjudgeme said:

Are the plants all the same strain? And I must say, that’s the first time I’ve ever heard of having organic soil that doesn’t require ph’ing, or any other soil for that matter, but I won’t discredit the possibility of that being true. I’ve always ph’d my water, no matter how I am growing. But aside from that, flushing can sometimes make things worse. For me it’s never really been necessary. If I notice an issue and feel it’s toxicity related, I just stop feeding and only supply water until I see the problem go away. The leafs with the yellowing unfortunately won’t go back to being green. If you flushed her heavily I would feed to make up for whatever you washed out of the soil. If you bottle feed, I’m fairly confident that the ph of your water after adding the Nutes went down. If you didn’t “ Ph up “ to 6.5-7, the plant never utilized what you fed it. I grow organically myself, and while I don’t necessarily have to ph in between feedings, I do have to ph when adding things like molasses, kelp, guano, and calmag if it calls for it. Getting your hands on a functional ph meter would be in your best interest especially if you plan on bottle feeding, otherwise you’re just guessing.

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Labradorweed said:

I was just telling the other guy that you should read up on super soil and no till farming. There’s a book called teaming with microbes. It’s all about how microbiology works in organic soil. Super soil and no till farming is way way easier than bottle nutrients. All the food is contained within the super soil for the plant from start to finish and all you need is to water. You can add compost tea‘s and what not but watering is the only thing that’s necessary. You don’t have to pH your water and it’s irrelevant Because the microbiology has a symbiotic relationship with the plant and its roots. The microbiology breaks down the food and makes it easily available to the roots and the PH becomes irrelevant. I promise you that it’s not about luck. There are thousands And thousands of people doing this That understand it and it has nothing to do with luck. It’s all about the microbiology In this soil

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PadawanWarrior said:

What kinda super soil ingredients did you add, and to what soil?

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Labradorweed said:

It’s normal super soil ingredients (to many to name right now). I’m growing them in my other pots with great success. The other pots have dirt that cooked and sat for about a month. I have two 3 gallon pots that are having the issue. They have the same super soil ingredients but it’s small quantity of it.

i’m actually wondering if these plants are root bound. I’m thinking about trans planning because if they’re root bound or if there’s a pH issue then I can probably solve it by getting it in some fresh dirt with decent microbial activity

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Renfro said:

The thing I like about using bottle feed is that I can change the balance of nutrients at a whim, forcing flavor and terpene production when the time is right, forcing magnesium when the time is right, being low on nitrogen when the time is right. It's what works for me, like I said I have no interest in working so hard as to deal with "super soil", worms, bugs and all that jazz.

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