Help with pvc system

I have watched this video 5 times, I cannot figure out how he blocked the pvc pipes connected to the 4way connector. Maybe someone can help?

Mrblaze212 said:

I have watched this video 5 times, I cannot figure out how he blocked the pvc pipes connected to the 4way connector. Maybe someone can help?

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He cemented in some plugs to keep the water from flowing into the legs. 50 seconds into the video he talks about it. There's other ways to support the feed line. That's just the way he did it. I'd probably do something else rather than cementing plugs inside. I'd do a different type of support system myself.

I heard him talk about it, however, I have no idea how or what he used to do that.

I have been looking for a plug for the actual pvc pipe, that will fit in a 4 way connector

Also, what would you do?

Drop That Sound said:

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What is that?

That was a unfortunate place to put the manifolds, right where he needs to work, and increasing the chance of kicking one and breaking it. I would have hid the lines along the wall or in between the trays..

Thats a snap in saddle tee, so you don't need a 4 way. Not that you should, because I agree that is a poor design for a stand. Something more solid would be better for it to sit on.

Or is it supposed to sit inside the flood tray? It should, in the case it ever leaks, IMO

I dont know how much it would matter, I am just using a 5 gallon bucket in dtw. So it would flood anyways, however, I agree with the principal.

I still would like to plug the pvc pipe and use the 4 way.

I would say to use JB Waterweld epoxy repair putty then. It's NSF certified for contact with food and water, and thick enough for the job. Maybe sand a little bit inside the 4 way where you'll be filling it in.


If he just used regular PVC cement (with masking tape or something to dam it off), I dunno.. Seems it would take forever to cure properly, and could leech into the system, unless you wait a long time for it to.

Or maybe he cut up a plug fitting into smaller pieces and glued them in. Or filled a small piece of pvc pipe and jammed that in with some cement.

I see the floraflex manifolds are detachable BTW, thats cool. I been using orbit drip manifolds (kinda break easy) and using banjo camlocks for quick disconnect of rails, manifolds, etc.

Another tip: you can save quite a bit on fittings by using a heat gun to bend the pipe, instead of using elbow fittings. Bending curves into the leg pipes for example will actually increase strength of the stand, by utilizing the strength of an arch.

Not to mention, it looks so trick when you heat form all your pipes. To me its like custom headers on a hot rod or something, lol. Makes your systems stand out.

Think I could use a heat gun to close the pipe?

Heat forming PVC pipe can be tricky. Sometimes it helps to put a spring inside, or sand (you can heat up sand in the oven and warm the pipe from the inside too, but more involved), so that it doesn't kink. You need to gradually bend a radius slowly, not just bend it 90 degrees or over heat the pipe.

By close off the pipe you mean heat it up and squish it so its flat on the end? I mean ya, I suppose you could do that. Could put some cement in as you do it.

You can sleeve a heated up pipe over a another pipe of the same size (like some pipes come from the store), and then glue them together again after it cools, instead of using a coupler.

Every fitting you use creates little gaps and pockets for crud to build up in. That's why I like to run the pipes with the least amount of fittings possible. It flows better too without the sharp 90's to go around. I think of it as, PVC pipe is cheap anyway, and you should replace the main sections every few years so it stays sanitary. When you use so many fittings, it cost alot more to replace when you do as well.

Got four of these, thanks for all the help.

I figured it out, he used 1/2 pvc stop pieces and a heat gun to get it in.