Hey guy having few leaf tip issues
- Thread starter imazinger
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futuretech
Active Member
Thats Roots issues, keep an eye on your PH, and medium humidity, don't overwater it
Ph too high?
3rd Monkey
Well-Known Member
Can you get a pic of some damaged and surrounding leaves in white light?
Also, what ratio are you running of the micro, grow and bloom?
Also, what ratio are you running of the micro, grow and bloom?
futuretech
Active Member
PH fluctuations in general up or down, big sudden changes, make sure you not giving to much of k, because that makes the root zone acid... let me show you some examples of similar issue:
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johnparkers
Member
Try to reduce the Ph Level And maintain it according to temperature.
futuretech
Active Member
Just don't stress out, try to keep ph the range you doing right now, make sure they are getting the best of K, if you reduce PH, it will have a k deficiency, making the roots more acidified, dropping the ph more, and creating more fluctuation. I'm really sure about what im saying, those mistakes were done grow after grow by me, until i learned by my errors.
Look at this:
Play with your PPM, understand the PPM concept, more PPM lower ph, less PPM higher PH... Simple as that
Look at this:
Play with your PPM, understand the PPM concept, more PPM lower ph, less PPM higher PH... Simple as that
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3rd Monkey
Well-Known Member
Don't reduce the ph! lol just don't stress out, try to keep ph the range you doing right now, make sure they are getting the best of P, if you reduce PH, it will have a P deficiency, making the roots more acidified, dropping the ph more, and creating more fluctuation. I'm really sure about what im saying, those mistakes were done grow after grow by me, until i learned by my errors.
Look at this:
Play with your PPM, understand the PPM concept, more PPM lower ph, less PPM higher PH... Simple as that
What?! Lol.
Potassium is K. Phosphorus is P.
Also, ppm and ph don't correlate in terms of running one lower or higher to adjust the other.
Regardless, looks like K burn. When the pics show up, we'll know for sure.
futuretech
Active Member
yeah my mistake, but i showed you the example as i wanted to. About PPM yes it does affect the PH a lot, i personally run Aeroponics right now, but already done soil, rdwc to for many years, and the higher the ppm of the solution the lower the ph, the lower the ppm the higher the ph, make some tests by yourself on a liter of water and then tell me if im wrong.
futuretech
Active Member
pick a liter of water, add 700ppm, check the ph
pick a liter of water add 400ppm check the ph
you will find a hell of a difference, i almost don't use any ph solution, i run my systems using the "LUCAS FORMULA" + CAL&MAG, my water is low 70-80ppm...
My solution is 99% of the time on the PH fluctuation i want, using this ppm system i described. I'm not throwing bs over, just trying to help you out! Good luck.
pick a liter of water add 400ppm check the ph
you will find a hell of a difference, i almost don't use any ph solution, i run my systems using the "LUCAS FORMULA" + CAL&MAG, my water is low 70-80ppm...
My solution is 99% of the time on the PH fluctuation i want, using this ppm system i described. I'm not throwing bs over, just trying to help you out! Good luck.
3rd Monkey
Well-Known Member
Aeroponics, your medium doesn't have a CEC.
I’m not
Sure I’m following you on this one? Are you saying make up nutes and add a litre of water?
andrea.rosales
Member
pH level is actually one of the most common reasons why people experience issues with their cannabis plants. It is extremely important to mix your nutrients and watering at the right pH as it affects how your plant absorbs those inputs.
If in the wrong pH range, it can cause your plant to go into a nutrient lockout, which means it is essentially in shock and no longer absorbing nutrients for the time being.
If in the wrong pH range, it can cause your plant to go into a nutrient lockout, which means it is essentially in shock and no longer absorbing nutrients for the time being.
Snowchaser
Active Member
Just don't stress out, try to keep ph the range you doing right now, make sure they are getting the best of K, if you reduce PH, it will have a k deficiency, making the roots more acidified, dropping the ph more, and creating more fluctuation. I'm really sure about what im saying, those mistakes were done grow after grow by me, until i learned by my errors.
Look at this:
This is the single most useful picture and thread response I’ve found for my similar problem. Thank you, exactly what I was looking for! I couldn’t tell if it was deficiency or excess. This picture confirms excess AND I think it’s a pH issue slightly too low. Can’t thank you enough Future tech.
Now to fix the dang problem...
Snowchaser
Active Member
I’ll post a pic of my burnt tips ASAP. i.e. when the lights come back on haha
futuretech
Active Member
No no, i was just answering the other guy, so that he could see when PPM is higher the PH is lower (without buffers) and the reverse... Basically i was telling that i almost don't use any ph buffers, i control the ph by adapting my PPM mainly, for sure that won't work on soil and hes right with hes answer, but its a good method if you plan go on hydro, rdwc, aeroponics. I personally use the well known "Lucas Formula".
Will wait for your pictures Snowchaser.
3rd Monkey
Well-Known Member
Ok, I will try to explain this without a lengthy lecture.No no, i was just answering the other guy, so that he could see when PPM is higher the PH is lower (without buffers) and the reverse... Basically i was telling that i almost don't use any ph buffers, i control the ph by adapting my PPM mainly, for sure that won't work on soil and hes right with hes answer, but its a good method if you plan go on hydro, rdwc, aeroponics. I personally use the well known "Lucas Formula".
Will wait for your pictures Snowchaser.
Certain nutrient compounds will raise or lower ph. They also add ph adjusters to most bottles.
Lucas formula is the GH trio, right? Check out your bloom. It has phosphoric acid to lower ph. If you run silica, it raises ph. As these nutes get used up, of course it fluctuates ph. However, what do you do when you're maxed on ppm but ph is out of spec? You use adjusters.
Now, moving on to the part that matters most, no difference between mediums... your roots adjust ph on their own. Ever notice how ph rises during veg, but usually goes acidic in flower?
Plant hormones, as well as the organic acids, sugars, etc that the roots secrete will tailor ph and even alter ppm slightly.
I wasn't trying to be a dick, just clarifying that what you said is right in principle, but only marginal in application.
Snowchaser
Active Member
Hi again,
So this is my situation. Grown in coco/soil/perlite. 30cm plastic pots (don't ask me why, it's my first grow!). Currently under 2 Viparspectra 300ws at 18 inches. I know I know, not a great light but for a first timer on a budget, here I am.
So my main issue was the tips burned about a week after the 12/12 switch. Then I noticed rust spots (as seen in photo) on some older leaves. I defoliated heavily after 2 weeks and again at the start of the 5th. Currently in 6th week of flower and I do think some nute damage has already been done to her precious cargo..
After looking at the advice here I've just given her some plain water with seaweed extract stuff pH'ed a little higher than she has been used to, closer to 7.0
Have normally been aiming 6.0 but reading here and elsewhere that K excess can be exacerbated by low pH I thought I'd bump it up to the max recommended for the medium. I have given K boosters twice during flower but I guess too much??
Any advice or other ideas welcome. I guess I just wait and see now.
So this is my situation. Grown in coco/soil/perlite. 30cm plastic pots (don't ask me why, it's my first grow!). Currently under 2 Viparspectra 300ws at 18 inches. I know I know, not a great light but for a first timer on a budget, here I am.
So my main issue was the tips burned about a week after the 12/12 switch. Then I noticed rust spots (as seen in photo) on some older leaves. I defoliated heavily after 2 weeks and again at the start of the 5th. Currently in 6th week of flower and I do think some nute damage has already been done to her precious cargo..
After looking at the advice here I've just given her some plain water with seaweed extract stuff pH'ed a little higher than she has been used to, closer to 7.0
Have normally been aiming 6.0 but reading here and elsewhere that K excess can be exacerbated by low pH I thought I'd bump it up to the max recommended for the medium. I have given K boosters twice during flower but I guess too much??
Any advice or other ideas welcome. I guess I just wait and see now.
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futuretech
Active Member
can you take the pictures on normal light? without being purple, i want to see the green color, if it is dark green with edges burn, possibly is nutrient burn, if its light green with edges burn possibly its K def... anyways, from week 6-8 i wouldn't worry much about the nuts, as the plant can supply its own nuts from older leafs.
Another thing that i don't recommend, is to defoliate to early on the flowering, in 10 years of experience i already faced issues last year with a full grow afected by one hermie, after doing that
i defoliate alot, after 20-30 days of flowering, then i defoliate again later...
3rd Monkey
Well-Known Member
First of all, coco/soil/perlite... what ratios? If you have less than 60% soil, it's going to act like coco for the most part. That means ph between 5.8-6.0.
Second, if you're thinking you have excess K, why seaweed extract? Isn't that more K?
It is a K tox/excess from the damage. You're leaves will be dark blue/green/purple under white light.
Stop feeding bloom, just calcium, magnesium, sulfur, and trace.