Hey People a little help or advise please.

TheHarvester

Active Member
Now your talking about something different.... I never said his leaves are perfect. I'd rather have stiff praying leaves like his, oppose to having droopy weak petioles.
Do a bit of research on plant cells, cell walls, and the plant vascular system.

You have yet to explain to my why praying leaves(leaves that are basking in the light and holding themselves up with a stiff petiole) Is bad....

Tacoing and leaf curl are different animals. This is evidence of issues along the way.
You said praying is bad, you never mentioned the other 2 until after you had no explanation for your original argument.
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
Now your talking about something different.... I never said his leaves are perfect. I'd rather have stiff praying leaves like his, oppose to having droopy weak petioles.
Do a bit of research on plant cells, cell walls, and the plant vascular system.

You have yet to explain to my why praying leaves(leaves that are basking in the light and holding themselves up with a stiff petiole) Is bad....

Tacoing and leaf curl are different animals. This is evidence of issues along the way.
You said praying is bad, you never mentioned the other 2 until after you had no explanation for your original argument.
They pray before they curl and taco, just a sign. Hence, the highest leaves are stressed and the ones just below are praying. If you can't see a correlation, I dunno.

I didn't say droopy leaves were better, just that they are showing stress.

I say it's bad because, just like I said above, it's a precursor to the taco and curl. I don't think that's a good thing, especially with buds in the vicinity. They can be holding themselves level, basking with a stiff petiole and be far from stressing or droopy.

I mentioned praying negatively because it was definitely the precursor to taco and curl. Don't believe me? Ask OP if they were praying before that.
 

TheHarvester

Active Member
They pray before they curl and taco, just a sign. Hence, the highest leaves are stressed and the ones just below are praying. If you can't see a correlation, I dunno.

I didn't say droopy leaves were better, just that they are showing stress.

I say it's bad because, just like I said above, it's a precursor to the taco and curl. I don't think that's a good thing, especially with buds in the vicinity. They can be holding themselves level, basking with a stiff petiole and be far from stressing or droopy.

I mentioned praying negatively because it was definitely the precursor to taco and curl. Don't believe me? Ask OP if they were praying before that.
This I agree with 99% except we differ where you think it's part of the the bad reaction or start of it, and It think it's the sweet spot you need to be shooting for. Most people go over the mark because of over feeding and salt build up. I think praying is a sign of a healthy root zone/vascular system, fluid is flowing up and down the xylem and phloem easily. Cell walls are turbid/rigid and firm. This has alot to do with pH and aeration of the media. With that healthy root zone and healthy flowing vascular system, it makes the salts move very easily which can lead to toxicity if there is an abundance in the soil. Or environmental factor change.
Heat and humidity for example. Too humid and the plant can't transpire and if it can't release water, it won't pull it up from the roots. Plants are like water pumps.
Too dry and they transpire too quick and get leave burn.
Even light, as you move your light further away and it gets less intense, the salt levels that worked for it before are going to be too much now.
It's really a combination of it all.
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
This I agree with 99% except we differ where you think it's part of the the bad reaction or start of it, and It think it's the sweet spot you need to be shooting for. Most people go over the mark because of over feeding and salt build up. I think praying is a sign of a healthy root zone/vascular system, fluid is flowing up and down the xylem and phloem easily. Cell walls are turbid/rigid and firm. This has alot to do with pH and aeration of the media. With that healthy root zone and healthy flowing vascular system, it makes the salts move very easily which can lead to toxicity if there is an abundance in the soil. Or environmental factor change.
Heat and humidity for example. Too humid and the plant can't transpire and if it can't release water, it won't pull it up from the roots. Plants are like water pumps.
Too dry and they transpire too quick and get leave burn.
Even light, as you move your light further away and it gets less intense, the salt levels that worked for it before are going to be too much now.
It's really a combination of it all.
I don't disagree, I still see it as a sign of stress though. Mine isn't based on plant science, but just watching them.

I've noticed that too much light seems to create a taco to remove surface area from the light.

Heat seems to curl and taco them because they are trying to "sweat".

Low humidity ties in with the heat, they pant.

Praying seems to be the common precursor. I've noticed long term praying takes a toll on the leaves. They lose vitality and vibrancy after a while, so there must be some sort of strain on them in my opinion.
 

mustbetribbin

Well-Known Member
First of all I am running a Propane heater in my Flower room, My ladies are alway doing nice under 2 600 watt hps phantoms ballasts, now I put a propane heater in the room and they have slowed to a crawl for flowering I have a really good Vent system and fresh air fans all the goodies. My question is could it be the Blue light off the heater causing this slow growth problem ? Has anyone had issues or could give me some tips. Need anymore info let me know. But if you have had problems using because the blue light at night let me know.
Thanks in advance . very frustrated.
Bear
Hi Bear420, Now look hey,,,, I don't want to recommend something that could jeopardize the safety of the gas heater that you are using, I also wouldn't want to recommend something that might put you in harms way by any means, but have you thought of simply wiring up a shield in front of the glass where the blue flame is being emitted from?

See the metal wire guard attached to the heater that is shielding that hot glass from outward contact, that's simply for cosmetics and outward safety, the gas heater doesn't need that wire guard there to function, it's only purpose is to keep the glass from coming into contact with anything that could shatter it or get burned/ignited by it, so you might be able to find some light weight thin metal or aluminum flashing (non flammable being key here) and wire up a shield to the grill that is already in place, maybe contour the sides inwards to shield the light just a bit also.

Or you could put something metal and fire proof in front of the heater and shield the light that way, then you wouldn't have to modify the heater any at all if that's a concern.

I wouldn't say that any flame light couldn't effect a plant, as I know yellow flame from a lighter can harm the human eye over time, especially with the flame held up towards ones face for a smoke, ect, so I have some reason to believe that you might be in the right track with wondering about the blue flame light being emitted, although it also depends how close your plants are to the flame, more than 20ft away and I would start to wonder myself if any effect could still be caused, but light does carry some distance that can be surprising sometimes, so the only way to find out is through some testing/ trial & error type of experimentation and you should be able to figure it out.

Other than that I can really be sure as you've said that the room does receive adequate ventilation, I was going to say if it's a small room that the heater might be consuming more oxygen than is safe for the plants, but that doesn't seem to be the case so other than that, my only recommendation is to test and see if blocking the light changes the results that you are seeing.

Cheers.
 
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TheHarvester

Active Member
I don't disagree, I still see it as a sign of stress though. Mine isn't based on plant science, but just watching them.

I've noticed that too much light seems to create a taco to remove surface area from the light.
Heat seems to curl and taco them because they are trying to "sweat".

Low humidity ties in with the heat, they pant.

Praying seems to be the common precursor. I've noticed long term praying takes a toll on the leaves. They lose vitality and vibrancy after a while, so there must be some sort of strain on them in my opinion.

Touche. I love your observations but someone already made other observations based plant science an put it in a book for people to read and absorb the knowledge. ;o)

Read up on plant cell walls and turbidity.
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
Touche. I love your observations but someone already made other observations based plant science an put it in a book for people to read and absorb the knowledge. ;o)

Read up on plant cell walls and turbidity.
Thank you for steering me in the right direction, though after research, I think you meant turgidity, not turbidity, since turbidity doesn't really apply. If I am wrong, please let me know.

Anyhow, I just powerhoused some articles last night (long night lol) and this morning.

My theory stands, I do believe. Too much turgidity can also be a bad thing, in that it thins out the cell walls from excessive, long term pressure. This would explain my observation of lack of vitality and vibrancy.

Too much turgidity can also lead to too much transpiration, resulting in plant stress from an over osmotic pressure, thus dehydrating and malnourishing itself... Leading to the taco and tip curl. Hence, stressed leaves are very rigid and stiff.

Stress (some kinds) can increase turgidity, like heat, humidity, light, soil compaction and excessive wind (explains wind burn). Those are signs of too much turgidity, causing too limp or too stiff of leaves.

Other stresses can lower turgidity, obviously.

If I got any of this wrong, please let me know. I had to do a lot of research on the research I was trying to research lol. So, I may have fallen off track somewhere.

Anyhow, I do want to thank you again for guiding me to very important plant functions, as I had to learn more about other things than just turgidity to understand it all (think I understand).
 

TheHarvester

Active Member
Thank you for steering me in the right direction, though after research, I think you meant turgidity, not turbidity, since turbidity doesn't really apply. If I am wrong, please let me know.

Anyhow, I just powerhoused some articles last night (long night lol) and this morning.

My theory stands, I do believe. Too much turgidity can also be a bad thing, in that it thins out the cell walls from excessive, long term pressure. This would explain my observation of lack of vitality and vibrancy.

Too much turgidity can also lead to too much transpiration, resulting in plant stress from an over osmotic pressure, thus dehydrating and malnourishing itself... Leading to the taco and tip curl. Hence, stressed leaves are very rigid and stiff.

Stress (some kinds) can increase turgidity, like heat, humidity, light, soil compaction and excessive wind (explains wind burn). Those are signs of too much turgidity, causing too limp or too stiff of leaves.

Other stresses can lower turgidity, obviously.

If I got any of this wrong, please let me know. I had to do a lot of research on the research I was trying to research lol. So, I may have fallen off track somewhere.

Anyhow, I do want to thank you again for guiding me to very important plant functions, as I had to learn more about other things than just turgidity to understand it all (think I understand).


I used the wrong term. It's been a while since I was in text book. I should have made sure I had the right term. I apologize, but I'm glad it sent you researching. I respect that and I make no claim to knowing everything.

Yes there's a sweet spot before issues arise, but it's still not a bad thing. ;o)
The petioles supporting the leaves will never be a bad thing. If the water isn't flowing properly the cells can't expand to their normal size and function properly. hence the droopy leaves and weak petioles. Which is followed by slower growth.

When the cells are full of water to the point of proper turgidity or pressure, the petioles function properly and can hold up the leaves without an issue.

It's a sign of the vascular system working properly. Which is largely affected by soil pH and aeration. Plants need more oxygen at the roots then people understand. That's why aeroponics works so well. It's actually studied that roots search for oxygen more then they do any other element. That's why tree roots find there way in to weeping beds, sewer pipes, foundations. They have plenty of water and a good amount of nutrients in the earth but not that much oxygen.

Those other issues arise because of the other factors involved. Light, heat, humidity, media moisture/salts, etc. Most of all, the change or fluctuation of any of these mentioned.

You can run a car engine rich or lean and it won't run properly. it will get you around sure, but slowly and just mediocre. Find the sweet spot between the air:fuel mixture and it will perform at it's best.

Either one will crash or break down but the engine that is performing at it's best is the one that can easily speed into a wall or blow up in your face.

If your plant can't take up the nutrients because it's vascular system isn't running properly, then it doesn't matter how much nutrients you throw at it. It won't absorb.
But if your media is high in salts or environmental factors change drastically and and the vascular system is working properly it will burn.

Fluctuations in light/humidity will make a plant transpire more and if it can't replace the water the leaf is left with an over abundance of salts to fluid. This burns or dries the leaves to a crisp.

This is why diagnosing over the internet is hard without tons on info and pictures. There are too many variables.
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
I used the wrong term. It's been a while since I was in text book. I should have made sure I had the right term. I apologize, but I'm glad it sent you researching. I respect that and I make no claim to knowing everything.

Yes there's a sweet spot before issues arise, but it's still not a bad thing. ;o)
The petioles supporting the leaves will never be a bad thing. If the water isn't flowing properly the cells can't expand to their normal size and function properly. hence the droopy leaves and weak petioles. Which is followed by slower growth.

When the cells are full of water to the point of proper turgidity or pressure, the petioles function properly and can hold up the leaves without an issue.

It's a sign of the vascular system working properly. Which is largely affected by soil pH and aeration. Plants need more oxygen at the roots then people understand. That's why aeroponics works so well. It's actually studied that roots search for oxygen more then they do any other element. That's why tree roots find there way in to weeping beds, sewer pipes, foundations. They have plenty of water and a good amount of nutrients in the earth but not that much oxygen.

Those other issues arise because of the other factors involved. Light, heat, humidity, media moisture/salts, etc. Most of all, the change or fluctuation of any of these mentioned.

You can run a car engine rich or lean and it won't run properly. it will get you around sure, but slowly and just mediocre. Find the sweet spot between the air:fuel mixture and it will perform at it's best.

Either one will crash or break down but the engine that is performing at it's best is the one that can easily speed into a wall or blow up in your face.

If your plant can't take up the nutrients because it's vascular system isn't running properly, then it doesn't matter how much nutrients you throw at it. It won't absorb.
But if your media is high in salts or environmental factors change drastically and and the vascular system is working properly it will burn.

Fluctuations in light/humidity will make a plant transpire more and if it can't replace the water the leaf is left with an over abundance of salts to fluid. This burns or dries the leaves to a crisp.

This is why diagnosing over the internet is hard without tons on info and pictures. There are too many variables.
Yea, I got all that.

I was leaning more towards the extended stress from the turgor pressure on the cell walls. Thins them out according to research. When they thin out, osmotic pressure decreases because the cell walls can't hold as much pressure, decreasing turgor pressure as well.

That's why you can burn so easy with light and wind, and why heat and low humidity makes them fold. Excessive turgor pressure can also increase transpiration to the point of dehydration in leaves, since the stomata are fully open, hence the burn.

Excessive turgor pressure can also negatively impact osmotic pressure by thinning the cell walls and creating less holding capacity, causing weak spots in leaves often associated with a Ca deficiency, even if the Ca is there for uptake.

A decrease in osmotic pressure is also a decrease in turgor pressure, affecting overall turgidity because the cell walls lack that holding capacity.

That's what I gather anyway lol.

So in essence, praying is fine... Until it's not. Sound about right?
 

TheHarvester

Active Member
Yea, I got all that.

I was leaning more towards the extended stress from the turgor pressure on the cell walls. Thins them out according to research. When they thin out, osmotic pressure decreases because the cell walls can't hold as much pressure, decreasing turgor pressure as well.

That's why you can burn so easy with light and wind, and why heat and low humidity makes them fold. Excessive turgor pressure can also increase transpiration to the point of dehydration in leaves, since the stomata are fully open, hence the burn.

Excessive turgor pressure can also negatively impact osmotic pressure by thinning the cell walls and creating less holding capacity, causing weak spots in leaves often associated with a Ca deficiency, even if the Ca is there for uptake.

A decrease in osmotic pressure is also a decrease in turgor pressure, affecting overall turgidity because the cell walls lack that holding capacity.

That's what I gather anyway lol.

So in essence, praying is fine... Until it's not. Sound about right?

Sounds bang on to me brother.
 

Bear420

Well-Known Member
Hi Bear420, Now look hey,,,, I don't want to recommend something that could jeopardize the safety of the gas heater that you are using, I also wouldn't want to recommend something that might put you in harms way by any means, but have you thought of simply wiring up a shield in front of the glass where the blue flame is being emitted from?

See the metal wire guard attached to the heater that is shielding that hot glass from outward contact, that's simply for cosmetics and outward safety, the gas heater doesn't need that wire guard there to function, it's only purpose is to keep the glass from coming into contact with anything that could shatter it or get burned/ignited by it, so you might be able to find some light weight thin metal or aluminum flashing (non flammable being key here) and wire up a shield to the grill that is already in place, maybe contour the sides inwards to shield the light just a bit also.

Or you could put something metal and fire proof in front of the heater and shield the light that way, then you wouldn't have to modify the heater any at all if that's a concern.

I wouldn't say that any flame light couldn't effect a plant, as I know yellow flame from a lighter can harm the human eye over time, especially with the flame held up towards ones face for a smoke, ect, so I have some reason to believe that you might be in the right track with wondering about the blue flame light being emitted, although it also depends how close your plants are to the flame, more than 20ft away and I would start to wonder myself if any effect could still be caused, but light does carry some distance that can be surprising sometimes, so the only way to find out is through some testing/ trial & error type of experimentation and you should be able to figure it out.

Other than that I can really be sure as you've said that the room does receive adequate ventilation, I was going to say if it's a small room that the heater might be consuming more oxygen than is safe for the plants, but that doesn't seem to be the case so other than that, my only recommendation is to test and see if blocking the light changes the results that you are seeing.

Cheers.
Thanks for the Input, I have did exactly as you stated and I will be safe in regards of fire hazard, I did and I have already noticed a change. I stood out in the room with the lights off and the blue flame was pretty brite So I made a wall so there no reflection of light on the ladies at all. I'll keep you posted and I really appreciate all your help and time you took to write all that for me, It sure is a good community out here if there's anything I can ever do to help all that gave their time to me, I would be honored to do so..

Happy days peace all my Brothers and Sisters.
 

mustbetribbin

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the Input, I have did exactly as you stated and I will be safe in regards of fire hazard, I did and I have already noticed a change. I stood out in the room with the lights off and the blue flame was pretty brite So I made a wall so there no reflection of light on the ladies at all. I'll keep you posted and I really appreciate all your help and time you took to write all that for me, It sure is a good community out here if there's anything I can ever do to help all that gave their time to me, I would be honored to do so..

Happy days peace all my Brothers and Sisters.
You are very welcome, I am glad I could offer some help, hopefully you will be back to getting some more luxuriant sized harvests soon.

I did a bit of searching and there isn't a lot of information about this topic out there, but there is some supported science behind various flame types emitting visible light as well as IR and I found a few interesting articles and the data suggests that the blue flame light that your gas heater is emitting is a blend of violet, blue, and green light, or it is within these spectrum ranges that this light is being made visible, and since blue light is more ideal for vegative growth, I believe that this light coming out from the new heater you're using is confusing your plants by giving them mixed signals between the types of light that they are receiving.

Also blue light is emitted at a higher frequency than other colors of the spectrum besides purple/violet, so the light has more ability to permeate the atmosphere and organisms than other types of light, basically blue light has more energy behind it than other types of light, for instance red and yellow are emitted at a lower frequency, so basically the blue light itself could be more harmful to flowering plants than if the light were a color that was lower on the light spectrum scale.

Here is a link that I think might be helpful, it's not exact but it does show that there is some science behind the issue that you are dealing with:

http://scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=5621

Myself I'm fascinated by light sources and all the various spectrum properties that each type of light brings forth, so I too found this information valuable to learn and I do look forward to an update to see if this had as much effect on the growth of your flowering plants as we have theorized, and hopefully others can learn from this information that you have helped us to stumble across as well, it's something we may not have learned otherwise, so at least speaking for myself I thank you as well and I do hope that you will be able to put this case to rest soon.

Happy growing and may these low frequency positive vibes im sending your way find you, take care friend.
 

Bear420

Well-Known Member
You are very welcome, I am glad I could offer some help, hopefully you will be back to getting some more luxuriant sized harvests soon.

I did a bit of searching and there isn't a lot of information about this topic out there, but there is some supported science behind various flame types emitting visible light as well as IR and I found a few interesting articles and the data suggests that the blue flame light that your gas heater is emitting is a blend of violet, blue, and green light, or it is within these spectrum ranges that this light is being made visible, and since blue light is more ideal for vegative growth, I believe that this light coming out from the new heater you're using is confusing your plants by giving them mixed signals between the types of light that they are receiving.

Also blue light is emitted at a higher frequency than other colors of the spectrum besides purple/violet, so the light has more ability to permeate the atmosphere and organisms than other types of light, basically blue light has more energy behind it than other types of light, for instance red and yellow are emitted at a lower frequency, so basically the blue light itself could be more harmful to flowering plants than if the light were a color that was lower on the light spectrum scale.

Here is a link that I think might be helpful, it's not exact but it does show that there is some science behind the issue that you are dealing with:

http://scienceline.ucsb.edu/getkey.php?key=5621

Myself I'm fascinated by light sources and all the various spectrum properties that each type of light brings forth, so I too found this information valuable to learn and I do look forward to an update to see if this had as much effect on the growth of your flowering plants as we have theorized, and hopefully others can learn from this information that you have helped us to stumble across as well, it's something we may not have learned otherwise, so at least speaking for myself I thank you as well and I do hope that you will be able to put this case to rest soon.

Happy growing and may these low frequency positive vibes im sending your way find you, take care friend.
Well I'll tell you what, that low frequency positive vibes are coming in in "WAVES".
I thought it is an interesting read forsure, That Black body Radiation may occur when the Heating element on the bottom of the unit gets red hot but seems it's on the low scale of the spectrum, it's only a tiny bit anyway we can't really see or notice. The blue is definitely a problem I notice the difference only after 3 or 4 days now, But will keep you posted.

I can only say Thanks to you and all that have contributed to this, and hopefully when all is said and done we will have our answers, Although I think we are on the right track, I wonder how many People this has happened to and they never knew what was going on ? Okay Thanks again my friend.

I'll keep ya all posted.

Bear420
 

Bear420

Well-Known Member
It's been 7 days now, I can tell you that the Blue Light from a Propane heater can Affect your plants Growth and flowering. My ladies are doing really well after I have built a block for the front of my propane heater so no blue glow comes from the front glass, ladies quit flowering all together with the exception of the ones in a the far corner that the blue light wasn't hitting. I am seeing what I expect to now and was worried what was causing my problem but with the help here we worked together and figured it out.

I want to thank mustbetrbbin and 3rdmonkey for all your help, It's nice to know you can still get good help from great People here, thanks a million I'll keep yas posted and get some pics soon.

Happy Grow all :)
 

Bear420

Well-Known Member
It's been a little over a month now and my ladies have been doing what they are suppose to do, Now that I had help from some good people here on this site and I just wanted to thank you.
On the note if the Blue light from a Propane heater LP or N.G. The answer is YES and it's a big YES. I have put a shield on my Propane unvented Heater, Metal ofcourse because anything besides Metal would cause a Fire and you do not want that, I've seen where others told them to put Tape over it or Cardboard "DO NOT DO THAT" If you use metal make sure it's not painted and if you really want to be safe try to burn it with a propane torch, if that doesn't catch it on fire your heater won't.
It's been a little over a month now and my plants are recovering very well thanks to the help here, I've also noticed a tiny bit of the blue light was shining on my reflective ceiling foil and i have to put another piece of metal over the top vent being really careful not to block the flow of heat and cause more issues. Bottom line it's back to normal, and Blue light from a Propane or Natural Gas unvented wall mounted heater will definitely hurt your ladies. You would also want to have the room vented fairly well due to cooler temps in winter and you don't want as much Co2 when the room is cooler but on the other hand if your room is over 80f you would want the Co2 it helps in hotter conditions so there's that.

A Special Thanks to Mustbetribbin , The Harvester and 3rd Monkey for all your Input. Hopefully this will help others who might have this problem it took me 2 seasons to figure out. People here can be the best and that makes this site one of the best on the net.

Bear420
 

mustbetribbin

Well-Known Member
It's been a little over a month now and my ladies have been doing what they are suppose to do, Now that I had help from some good people here on this site and I just wanted to thank you.
On the note if the Blue light from a Propane heater LP or N.G. The answer is YES and it's a big YES. I have put a shield on my Propane unvented Heater, Metal ofcourse because anything besides Metal would cause a Fire and you do not want that, I've seen where others told them to put Tape over it or Cardboard "DO NOT DO THAT" If you use metal make sure it's not painted and if you really want to be safe try to burn it with a propane torch, if that doesn't catch it on fire your heater won't.
It's been a little over a month now and my plants are recovering very well thanks to the help here, I've also noticed a tiny bit of the blue light was shining on my reflective ceiling foil and i have to put another piece of metal over the top vent being really careful not to block the flow of heat and cause more issues. Bottom line it's back to normal, and Blue light from a Propane or Natural Gas unvented wall mounted heater will definitely hurt your ladies. You would also want to have the room vented fairly well due to cooler temps in winter and you don't want as much Co2 when the room is cooler but on the other hand if your room is over 80f you would want the Co2 it helps in hotter conditions so there's that.

A Special Thanks to Mustbetribbin , The Harvester and 3rd Monkey for all your Input. Hopefully this will help others who might have this problem it took me 2 seasons to figure out. People here can be the best and that makes this site one of the best on the net.

Bear420
Hey Bear420, thank you for the updates this is valuable information that you have offered to the forum.

I'm glad that you were able to find a solution to your issue, there is actually an old book that speaks in great detail if anyone is interested written by A. G. Gaydon 'The Spectroscopy of Flames' that goes into depth about various flame types and the light they emit.

It is nice to see that someone has offered such courtesy in a reply to show appreciation for the solution that someone has offered them, I must say your was one of the kindest, I thank you for that.

Thank you Bear420 for your patience and for updates, I have actually been in the middle of a fallout from being online as often recently, just the true stoner in me shining through, I thank you for allowing a late reply and understanding the season change slows things down online for some of us, just busy bees doing what we've got to do gardening and such, I do agree though this is a wonderful forum and there are plenty of others out here on this particular forum that makes this one shine.

Such patience and grace is appreciated, I thank you for understanding, may things continue to go well with you friend.

Happy 420 Everyone! One Love, thanks.
 
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