Hi all, looking for any advice on my setup.

Pharoah

Pharoah

Active Member
Hi all, I recently got my MMAR and am designing my room for my grow, I have 13*9 space (Broken into two rooms, a 4*9 veg and a 9X9 flower).

I'll be running 4 1000w lights running on 2 separate 8" 600+CFM fans, each fan cooling 2 lights.

I have designed a 3D image of my room. (Flower room on the right, Veg room on the left)

Topo1.jpg

Side1.jpg

The color coordination for my ventilation is as such:

Green = Filters
Red = 8" 600+ CFM inline fans
Blue = Possible Booster Fans.

I've even considered tilting the filters a little more so they reach the top of the room. Also, Flowerbeds will be replaced with 3gal buckets spanning the entire depth of the room. On the far side will be a 3-4X9-12 plants, and on the near side will be 4-5X9-12 plants. I also need to reduce my pipes after the inline fan to 4" to connect to my exhaust vent.

In the veg room I have 2 shelves, the farther side is where my mothers will be located, directly under them will be my rooting clones. The mothers will rest under T8 Floro's, Not sure what to light the rooting clones with yet.

On the near shelf will be the Growing Clones, after rooting. These will be lit with T8 lights as well. Directly under will be where my supplies will be located ie Cloning solution etc.

I would like this to be a perpetual grow, where Each light has it's own harvest time. For example, if using the flower bed design (which I've decided is not wise for me) Flowerbed A would be harvested, and replanted, 2 weeks later, Flowerbed B is harvested, and replanted, 2 weeks later, Flowerbed C is harvested, and replanted, 2 weeks later, Flowerbed D is harvested and replanted, 2 weeks later, the cycle returns to Flowerbed A, allowing me to harvest 1 light's worth of plants every 2 weeks.

I'm not sure what kind of ventilation I should have in my Veg room as well, maybe a simple 6" inline 400CFM?

Any advice at all would be helpful. Oh, this is an organic grow, not a hydro setup. Thanks in Advance.
 
roidrage152

roidrage152

Active Member
Pharoah said:
Hi all, I recently got my MMAR and am designing my room for my grow, I have 13*9 space (Broken into two rooms, a 4*9 veg and a 9X9 flower).

I'll be running 4 1000w lights running on 2 separate 8" 600+CFM fans, each fan cooling 2 lights.

-I think you'll find that you will be very happy with 4000w in a 9x9 space.

I have designed a 3D image of my room. (Flower room on the right, Veg room on the left)

View attachment 2045550

View attachment 2045551

The color coordination for my ventilation is as such:

Green = Filters
Red = 8" 600+ CFM inline fans
Blue = Possible Booster Fans.

I've even considered tilting the filters a little more so they reach the top of the room. Also, Flowerbeds will be replaced with 3gal buckets spanning the entire depth of the room. On the far side will be a 3-4X9-12 plants, and on the near side will be 4-5X9-12 plants. I also need to reduce my pipes after the inline fan to 4" to connect to my exhaust vent.

-Filters hung high is an ideal situation for floorspace. You might abandon the idea the first time you try to hang it, or at least the first time you have to change the pre-filter. Definitely don't do anything too permanant. Otherwise the set up seems fine. Another reason to leave the filters on the ground, is that they are pulling in the air to cool the lights. Cooler air is on the floor, hotter air is in the ceiling. Now if you had a stand alone filter, not running through the lights, that would want to be hung high to grab the hot air, and blow directly out. Either way I've done all scenarios, and it didn't change my climate to any noticable degree at any height. Another arguement for high is in a CO2 supplimented room, CO2 is heavy than air and settles low, if that can of worms ever opens for you.

In the veg room I have 2 shelves, the farther side is where my mothers will be located, directly under them will be my rooting clones. The mothers will rest under T8 Floro's, Not sure what to light the rooting clones with yet.

-You don't seem to be sparing expense for your set up. Rather than t8 on your mother, I've personally not used t8s, only t5s, not sure what the benefit is of one or the other, assuming you get the right color temps. 6500k ideal for Vegatative growth, 5000k+ good. CFLs are not a bad option because you can get more vertical light coverage on a taller mother, I find them easy to find cheap online, and are easy to work with. Same color temps.

On the near shelf will be the Growing Clones, after rooting. These will be lit with T8 lights as well. Directly under will be where my supplies will be located ie Cloning solution etc.

-Same as the mother in regard to lighting. Odd that you included where you'll store the cloning solution. I keep all my nutes together, because all my tools are also together including my clone cutting stuff, leaf trimmers, blades, and disinfectants.

I would like this to be a perpetual grow, where Each light has it's own harvest time. For example, if using the flower bed design (which I've decided is not wise for me) Flowerbed A would be harvested, and replanted, 2 weeks later, Flowerbed B is harvested, and replanted, 2 weeks later, Flowerbed C is harvested, and replanted, 2 weeks later, Flowerbed D is harvested and replanted, 2 weeks later, the cycle returns to Flowerbed A, allowing me to harvest 1 light's worth of plants every 2 weeks.

-The schedule sounds logical, good luck :p.

I'm not sure what kind of ventilation I should have in my Veg room as well, maybe a simple 6" inline 400CFM?

-I don't see why a 6" inline fan wouldnt be plenty to ventilate your veg side. What thing I couldn't find in your design is your passive intakes. You will want to create negative pressure in the rooms to make the best use of your carbon filters. If I was doing this set up, I would passive intake outside your veg, then another opening (would have to be light trapped) between veg and flower In fact, this is probably where I would put the 6" fan blowing air from veg into flower. This would make sure whatever smells that are in veg are also filtered before being blown out the room by the filtered fans in the flower room.

Another side note I think the booster fans are excessive. If you need more cooling, for the money, more regular inline fans, or upgrade them. However I personally use one 8" 650-750 cfm fan per 2000w of light. All hoods are cool to the touch.

Another thing about your layout, and you will see mixed preferences. For maximum odor control I prefer to go:

Filter ---> Fan ---> Light ---> Exhaust

This makes sure all air that is being sucked into the fan is going through the filter. Otherwise you have air loss through tiny gaps in ducting or the hoods. The only arguments I've heard against this set up is either stiff airflow, or a carbon particle hitting and breaking a bulb in theory. I've never expereinced this personally, nor heard this specifically happening to someone.

That being said, if you really manage to get all this together, you will probably want to go with some CO2 supplimentation eventually which will throw this ducting layout out the window.
Click to expand...
 
Pharoah

Pharoah

Active Member
ok cool, I stated where my cloning solution is going to be because that's the only example I thought of right toff hand, my other things will also be there such as nutes, tools, etc.

As for the ventilation, I'm planning on having passive intakes near the bottom of the flower room to allow for negative pressure, and since I havn't really figured out how I'm going to vent the Veg room, I may just do that.

Another thing not outlined in the design posted is the Osculating fans that will be creating a sort of vortex system for airflow, allowing air to move all around the plants, helping them grow strong (as from my understanding, most osculating fans are there to create the "Wind" effect to keep stocks strong, and not so much for cooling the room)

Just a question tho, how would I create a light proof, yet not air tight connection between the flower and the veg rooms?
 
roidrage152

roidrage152

Active Member
Pharoah said:
ok cool, I stated where my cloning solution is going to be because that's the only example I thought of right toff hand, my other things will also be there such as nutes, tools, etc.

As for the ventilation, I'm planning on having passive intakes near the bottom of the flower room to allow for negative pressure, and since I havn't really figured out how I'm going to vent the Veg room, I may just do that.


Another thing not outlined in the design posted is the Osculating fans that will be creating a sort of vortex system for airflow, allowing air to move all around the plants, helping them grow strong (as from my understanding, most osculating fans are there to create the "Wind" effect to keep stocks strong, and not so much for cooling the room)

Just a question tho, how would I create a light proof, yet not air tight connection between the flower and the veg rooms?
Click to expand...
The passive intake can be whereever, just keep in mind the temperature of that room dictates the temperature of the air you will be using to manage your room temps. Also the environment is important. You'll be sucking in whatever bad stuff is in that room such as bugs/dust/pollens and such, so filter that air accordingly.

There are many options for light traps, the simplest being extra bends in the ducting. I personally just use a rectangular cardboard box, and tape a peice of cheap furnace type filter over the intake. If you can picture this in 3d, this is the basic design. You seem like a perfectionist, so make it out of whatever and paint the inside black, I don't bother with that myself. I think I'm currently using my Stealth RO box because it fits perfect between 2 regulation studs. All the flaps inside are just stuck in there with Gorilla tape, and I used duct tape on the box edges to block light leaks. Janky but effective.
light trap.gif

Oscillating fans are important not only to strengthen the stems, but to prevent mold. It also helps control bugs a bit because its hard for them to land on your plants and do stuff to them if a good breeze is blowing on them. You don't want a stiff breeze blowing directly on your leaves as that causes damage. You want airflow over your canopy giving them a light sway, and air flow below your canopy keeping that area dry and preventing mold/mildew.
 
Pharoah

Pharoah

Active Member
I believe I understand what you're saying with the diagram. This box would be located between the 2 rooms, the intake would be located on the Veg side of the Box, and the Out would be located on the Flower side of the box, meanwhile, there is overlapping flaps dividing them to prevent light seepage while still allowing airflow. Interesting, thanks for the tip.

Also, in terms of the Osculating fans, I havn't quite decided exactly how I will set them up, as my original design had air blowing from the corners just above the lights on a downward angle, thinking about that now it seems like not such a good idea, I'll just position my fans accordingly. Maybe have 4 fans set on low/mild, two below canopy, each on either side of the "hall" down the middle of the flower room, Osculating back and forth blowing on separate sides of the room and passing each other in the middle, and two above canopy, doing the same thing, Each one on separate sides blowing on opposing sides of eachother.

This box of rooms will be built in my basement, which generally stays the same temps, slight alterations during summer months, No windows. I've considered installing a AC to prevent any overheating issues, but am unsure what kind of issues I may run into if I do air quality wise. AC these days are fairly advanced, Turn on at this temp, shut off at that temp.
 
Warlock1369

Warlock1369

Well-Known Member
Well looks great. But don't know what state your in. Some states limit indoor grows to plants and canopy size. IE 10 plants canopy of 50 square feet. Others set hight limits. Under 3 foot flowering but Also judge the canopy.(so we can't top like crazy). Some all 3. If your trying to go full legit look into that. State law will help you if DEA steps in but if your out of state limits like me.(rite numbers but to big of plants) we are still risking alot. Just a word of advice
 
Pharoah

Pharoah

Active Member
I'm in Canada, I only have plant number limit to worry about, and it's 88, I can do w/e I want with them, gonna regularly top several and learn to HST vs LST on a few each crop, I'm running 10 plants per cycle, I'm going to be trying to transplant them from smaller pots (beginning growth stage) to larger pots (Mid Growth Stage), so I can have 2 growth veg stages, each 2 weeks apart. My idea is to have a 10 plant harvest every 2 weeks. And since rooting clones don't take up too much space, I believe I can have 20 (again, each set of 10 2 weeks apart). This will allow me to have a full month to root nice strong roots, a full month to grow my clone, and build an even stronger root structure, as well as 2 Mothers to clone from. Which in the end allows me to flower my plants for the full 2 month term (or longer if I decide to allow my growth clones to get a couple more days)

So, we have 20 rooting clones at all times
We have 20 growing clones at all times
We have 40 plants flowering at all times, and 2 Mothers

For a total of 82 plants. This now allows me to also do alot of experimenting, as I have 6 plants that I can play with without going over my limit to learn this such as Grafting, which will allow me to attach several different mothers to one solid root structure, which will reduce my plant down to 1 plant for any number of mothers I can possibly attach to the root structure without harming them (I'm going to say 3 good mothers on a REALLY strong root structure to ensure all plants get their required foods)

This is my first grow ever, but I believe I will excel in it rather quickly, that's sort of a general trait of mine.

Also, to ensure I acquire the maximum number of females per package of seeds (which will give me a larger selection of mom's to choose from) possible I will be sprouting the seed on 12/12, 14/10, or 16/8 (Spring time, when all the ladies come out to play), gradually working it to 18/6 (summer time veg) and back to 12/12 for flowering in the fall. (I'm using the planets actual yearly cycle to determine the growth of the plant from seed) NOTE: This is what I've been told by a very wise grower.
 
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