High Humidity
- Thread starter plantbased_growva
- Start date
plantbased_growva
Member
its reading 73–I’ve invested in a bigger dehumidifier!! Mold is my arch nemesis and I refuse to let it win again!!!
Hi pal,
I’ve looked through the post and here’s a few thoughts:
1) What is the humidity of the air coming into the tent?
2) the fans in the photo are quite high up. Is there any blowing across the top of the pots and through the plants? If the humidity is high, temperature is decent and no air circulation is going throughout the pots and plants that will an ideal condition for mold growth.
3) Can you cut any watering cycles down during the cooler months? I can bring my humidity down 10+ percent just from watering less, this allows the plants to show signs of when they wanted watering or not.
4) Mold spores exist in most air particles, this is why when you open a sealed jar the contents inside will begin to mold. Mold is a overpowered enemy, it’s best to understand how it works if you want to not have it in your buds. (There are some filters which claim they can filter mold spores).
I hope this helps.
I’ve looked through the post and here’s a few thoughts:
1) What is the humidity of the air coming into the tent?
2) the fans in the photo are quite high up. Is there any blowing across the top of the pots and through the plants? If the humidity is high, temperature is decent and no air circulation is going throughout the pots and plants that will an ideal condition for mold growth.
3) Can you cut any watering cycles down during the cooler months? I can bring my humidity down 10+ percent just from watering less, this allows the plants to show signs of when they wanted watering or not.
4) Mold spores exist in most air particles, this is why when you open a sealed jar the contents inside will begin to mold. Mold is a overpowered enemy, it’s best to understand how it works if you want to not have it in your buds. (There are some filters which claim they can filter mold spores).
I hope this helps.
plantbased_growva
Member
Hi!! Can I just say this is my first post on here that someone hasn’t made me feel like a total loser (so thanks!!).
So I have 2 fans on top, I had one on the bottom to blow through pots and added another one last night. I have been worried about blowing directly on the plants (from what I’ve read that’s a no no??)
I’ve ordered a larger dehumidifier that’s coming today.
The humidity in the room is reading 65% (today).
Watering—good point. I’ve been thinking of all the things I need to do (or not do) and that is one-I have different cycles happening, requiring different watering. That’s obviously something I’m not controlling correctly.
So I have 2 fans on top, I had one on the bottom to blow through pots and added another one last night. I have been worried about blowing directly on the plants (from what I’ve read that’s a no no??)
I’ve ordered a larger dehumidifier that’s coming today.
The humidity in the room is reading 65% (today).
Watering—good point. I’ve been thinking of all the things I need to do (or not do) and that is one-I have different cycles happening, requiring different watering. That’s obviously something I’m not controlling correctly.
Your good pal, never feel like a looser when your on a learning path to success.
Growing plants is a very humbling experience you can read and learn as much from the internet but nothing beats your own experiences with some guidance along the way.
I do have concerns for the size of the carbon filter vs the size of the fan but I’m assuming your fan was sufficient CFM vs the size of the carbon filter.
There is a lot of additional information here: https://growace.com/blogs/learning-center/should-i-be-using-a-carbon-filter-in-my-grow-room
if you have it down to 65% humidity with the option to correct your water cycles + making sure the air in and around the plants is moving then I think you will be ok.
i would highly recommend getting a thermometer/hygrometer Bluetooth device, you can get them for less than 20USD and then will provide you with a graph to show you your humidity.
I’ve attached a photo of my humidity across 7 weeks so you can see how this might help you. You will see that the dips and highs in the photo relate to my water cycles, the humidity spikes when they are watered. Because I’m also concerned about the mold environment I allow for the humidity to dip before watering again.
A key thing here though is testing the humidity of the air coming in. If you are using a passive intake through the nets at the bottom of the tent change that to an piece of ducting in the bottom and close the nets up. This will allow you to test the air coming in as it will be pulled through the empty ducting hole. You can also then change the tent air pressure through a bigger or smaller piece of ducting (e.g swap from 6inch to 4inch). Be careful not to make it to small however as this will effect the performance of the outtake.
Keep at it buddy and you will get there 100%
Growing plants is a very humbling experience you can read and learn as much from the internet but nothing beats your own experiences with some guidance along the way.
I do have concerns for the size of the carbon filter vs the size of the fan but I’m assuming your fan was sufficient CFM vs the size of the carbon filter.
There is a lot of additional information here: https://growace.com/blogs/learning-center/should-i-be-using-a-carbon-filter-in-my-grow-room
if you have it down to 65% humidity with the option to correct your water cycles + making sure the air in and around the plants is moving then I think you will be ok.
i would highly recommend getting a thermometer/hygrometer Bluetooth device, you can get them for less than 20USD and then will provide you with a graph to show you your humidity.
I’ve attached a photo of my humidity across 7 weeks so you can see how this might help you. You will see that the dips and highs in the photo relate to my water cycles, the humidity spikes when they are watered. Because I’m also concerned about the mold environment I allow for the humidity to dip before watering again.
A key thing here though is testing the humidity of the air coming in. If you are using a passive intake through the nets at the bottom of the tent change that to an piece of ducting in the bottom and close the nets up. This will allow you to test the air coming in as it will be pulled through the empty ducting hole. You can also then change the tent air pressure through a bigger or smaller piece of ducting (e.g swap from 6inch to 4inch). Be careful not to make it to small however as this will effect the performance of the outtake.
Keep at it buddy and you will get there 100%
Attachments
He could also reduce his lung room's humidity over all, so bigger de-humidifier. But exhausting outside the room would likely be cheaper.
LordEnki
Well-Known Member
Open your heating vents. The dry air will help keep the humidity down in your lung room. Have you tried leaving the lung room door open, if able?
I'd think opening the door would cost less than a suitable sized dehuey.
Is it a 4x2 tent?
Nope_49595933949
Well-Known Member
I'd imagine it'd be better for the plants over all?
DoubleAtotheRON
Well-Known Member
Lower your temps as a last resort. Hotter air holds more moisture.
plantbased_growva
Member
Yes 4x2. I have been venting the door…got a bigger dehumidifier —it appears to be slowly coming down
weednerd.anthony.850
Well-Known Member
A big enough dehumidifier is a quintessential tool in any indoor growers arsenal to help perfect dialing in his/her environment, and I’m gonna buy a second one eventually as I have extra money put away and I’ll keep it in my storage unit as if it fails randomly you may have major humidity spikes very abruptly and get the dreaded PM or botrytis in late flower you know…