High Iron Well-Water killing my plants?

Great. Thanks! I've just been reading and the Hesi comes highly recommended. Will order those today.

my first response to the nute line was bad because of the bloom and there feed schedule or mixing directions

strangely... when you void the bloom and use the grow with the p-k you get some real good n-p-k numbers for flower

I still recommend you check the other numbers to see that ther in order..starting with calcium and magnesium

do they offer a calmag product? you may need it
also do the offer silica?

Why is their bloom no good? n-p-k is off? Surely they know how to make it right? Sorry for the basic questions, I'm just interested.

I would mess with the vita products and aminos or whatever,,,,, the enzyme might be good stuff

im4satori said:

I would mess with the vita products and aminos or whatever,,,,, the enzyme might be good stuff

Click to expand...

Ordered.

Justin Freidman said:

Why is their bloom no good? n-p-k is off? Surely they know how to make it right? Sorry for the basic questions, I'm just interested.

Click to expand...

that's a good question
youd think theyd have a clue right

youll find most people having the best success are using less than half what the company recommends..maybe they want to sell more idk

its not that its no good.. its just no in ratio with its counterpart

for every action theres a reaction

mess with your calcium and itll affect your magnesium and potassium
rasie your potassium and itll lock out your magnesium

raise your iron lock out your zinc

raise your phosphorus and lock out iron and zinc

on and on and on

in general

for flower

you want your K to be close to double your N

P can float but should never be more than N

potassium calcium and magnesium should be 3:2:1 (example 120:60:30) ratios for veg and some do a 4:2:1 ratio during flower

for example;

N 70
P 50 to 60
K120
Ca 60
Mg 30

for veg you want your N close to the same as K and P very low

but still keep the 3:2:1 ratio between K:Ca:Mg

for example
N 110
P30
K120
Ca 60
Mg 30

many of the nute companys are coming around and a few years back started adjusting theyre recommended EC down

the main difference between them being the range of P

these are all dry powder fertilizers
save you a bunch of money
in your situation
having trouble sourcing things
this might benefit you even more than most if you can source the materials

the above formula is for bloom

1lb of each would last you a life time and you wouldn't ever have to look for nutes again

the formula above is most basic requiring the least materials.. if your able to source the potassium nitrate also you could taylor it more but that ingredient is difficult

I will link you to a web site where I get mine

you would need 5 items

and a scale that can reliably measure 3 grams

this is a better formula provided you can source the additional element potassium nitrate requiring 6 items

so what it says is

50 gallon container of water

add
calcium nitrate 1.3 grams per gallon/ 65 grams to mix 50 gallons
potassium nitrate 0.6 grams per gallon/ 30 grams to mix 50 gallons

and so on with all 6 items

its easier to mix larger amouunts so youll want to mix atleast 50 gallons at a time... throw the extra out or toss it on your lawn or save it for next week

veg formula

I actually dropped the EC to 1.1. The well water has an EC of 0.4. So 1.5 (recommended from maker) minus 0.4 gives me 1.1.

The plants are growing like crazy over the past 3 days. I'm assuming this is positive and the plants are doing well? The colour is still quite yellow, I'm guess that will take a while to change?

In the next few days I will have a mineral analysis of the well water done and then decide whether to go RO or not.

Here's some pictures, each one shows 24 hours growth. Sorry for the HPS light, these were grabbed from my security cam.

Thanks for all the help,
J.

First day:



Second day:



Today:

hmm... that's not how I would figure it

I would set your EC to 1.3 total and finished including the source water

then if your ph is climbing super fast with in 2 days you've gone from 5.5 to 6.5
then increase the EC

think of it like this
if I put a glass of mineral water in front of you you would drink it and be happy

if I put a glass of salt water in front of you, you might try and drink it cuz your dehydrated but its going to actually dehydrate you more from the high salt content

minerals are salts... theyre all salts!
the more you add the saltier the water
salty water means your plants will drink less of it or try and drink the water and leave the minerals behind which causes your EC to climb

the 0.4EC in your source water counts toward that salt content... removing it from your total EC is a mistake


I don't know if I already posted this with you


Originally Posted by OldPhart
Basic cheat sheet:
Ec goes up, PH goes down=plants require less nutes.
Ec goes down, PH goes up=Plants require more nutes
Ec stable, PH goes up=Equilibrium=Good thang.

as for the yellowing
its not bad enough to mess things up yet
you could try foliar feeding 3ml per gallon of calmag

the iron in the cal mag will likely green up those yellow tops almost over night

provided its a iron def. which is most common reason.. if its not the iron its ok the calmag spray wont hurt anything

the other possibilities is zinc def or excessive P (which i don't think) but try the iron first

raise the lights a few inched before you spray just in case