PetFlora
Well-Known Member
The purpose of this thread is to provide one thread for anyone interested on building a proper HPA system can find information, and ask questions.
For nubes, the following is a quick primer as to why HPA is so special:
High Pressure Aero was basically developed by NASA at least 10 years ago as it is the most efficient method to grow plants. It uses the least amount of everything, but especially water/nutrients and it requires virtually no grow medium.
Assuming proper care is given to the basics- quality and quantity of light, room temps, rez temps, high pressure system capable of delivering atomized nutrients on a deep cycle feed schedule (typically < one second feed/ one minute pause) at a minimum of 60 psi, as well as the RH inside the pod (root chamber) you will see explosive growth.
The biggest problem HPA growers must address is nutrients. Organics probably won't work as the living matter, or decayed matter will clog the mist heads. Nutrients like DM are pure liquid. In my experience, they do not clog mist heads.
Most important are the dimensions of the root chamber, distance around each plants roots. Due to atomized nutes filling the pod on such short feed cycles, the roots develop differently than they would in any other method. Instead of the plant focusing on sending the tap root in search of a water source, the frequent moisture causes lateral roots (called fish bones) to develop in order to feed off that moisture. In a dialed in system these lateral roots will also develop thousands of sites along each lateral root- they look like pipe cleaners and are called root hairs.
Mature HPA roots look like actual pony tails during veg, but once flipped to flower, a new root system develops at the base of the plant. As these roots mature, they will look like a cheer leaders pom poms. Think maximum surface area for nutes to fall upon. Each root is light, the fish bones provide air space between each roots. The size of the pom pom depends on the size of the plant: a tree can grow something like a basketball, a small plant something like a softball. You must account for this unique root development in your pod. This means fewer plants per pod, as each root system needs a good cubic foot of air space around them for the atomized nutrients to swirl and land on all surfaces.
DIY Pods. So far manufacturers have not addressed the unique pod dimensions HPA growers need, leaving them to DIY. There is no one way to build HPA pods, though one must consider the needs of plants when grown.
The ideal individual pod should look a lot like a round, but tall, garbage can whose diameter should be a minimum of 24"; height needs to be > 6" taller than the height of the plant you plan to grow. This allows for drainage and a bit of fudge factor. You do not want roots gathering on the bottom of the pod. Tables are better suited to SOG style, and/or short plants. For personal use growers a minimum of 18G Rubbermaid style tote (17" deep) can handle 2-3 short plants: several totes can be fed off one HPA system.
OK, HPA growers, fire away...
For nubes, the following is a quick primer as to why HPA is so special:
High Pressure Aero was basically developed by NASA at least 10 years ago as it is the most efficient method to grow plants. It uses the least amount of everything, but especially water/nutrients and it requires virtually no grow medium.
Assuming proper care is given to the basics- quality and quantity of light, room temps, rez temps, high pressure system capable of delivering atomized nutrients on a deep cycle feed schedule (typically < one second feed/ one minute pause) at a minimum of 60 psi, as well as the RH inside the pod (root chamber) you will see explosive growth.
The biggest problem HPA growers must address is nutrients. Organics probably won't work as the living matter, or decayed matter will clog the mist heads. Nutrients like DM are pure liquid. In my experience, they do not clog mist heads.
Most important are the dimensions of the root chamber, distance around each plants roots. Due to atomized nutes filling the pod on such short feed cycles, the roots develop differently than they would in any other method. Instead of the plant focusing on sending the tap root in search of a water source, the frequent moisture causes lateral roots (called fish bones) to develop in order to feed off that moisture. In a dialed in system these lateral roots will also develop thousands of sites along each lateral root- they look like pipe cleaners and are called root hairs.
Mature HPA roots look like actual pony tails during veg, but once flipped to flower, a new root system develops at the base of the plant. As these roots mature, they will look like a cheer leaders pom poms. Think maximum surface area for nutes to fall upon. Each root is light, the fish bones provide air space between each roots. The size of the pom pom depends on the size of the plant: a tree can grow something like a basketball, a small plant something like a softball. You must account for this unique root development in your pod. This means fewer plants per pod, as each root system needs a good cubic foot of air space around them for the atomized nutrients to swirl and land on all surfaces.
DIY Pods. So far manufacturers have not addressed the unique pod dimensions HPA growers need, leaving them to DIY. There is no one way to build HPA pods, though one must consider the needs of plants when grown.
The ideal individual pod should look a lot like a round, but tall, garbage can whose diameter should be a minimum of 24"; height needs to be > 6" taller than the height of the plant you plan to grow. This allows for drainage and a bit of fudge factor. You do not want roots gathering on the bottom of the pod. Tables are better suited to SOG style, and/or short plants. For personal use growers a minimum of 18G Rubbermaid style tote (17" deep) can handle 2-3 short plants: several totes can be fed off one HPA system.
OK, HPA growers, fire away...
