Hijack/transiberian auto grow. Should I flush?

So, this is my first grow. I chose two auto strains cause I figured it would be harder to screw up...

20"x36"x62" grow tent
75-80*F
45-60rh
Kind led L450 (270 actual watts)
24" from plants
FFOF medium
Ph is at 5.9-6.2

Just treated with cal/mag on Friday. I thought maybe because I'm using distilled water I might have a cal mag def. growth doesn't seem to be stunting the bigger of the two(transiberian).

Oh yeah, the trans is on day 12 and the hijack is on day 5.... Ideas? Should I flush w re-ph'd water? Never flushed before afraid of drowning my girls. Thanks in advance for your help.

cant see the pictures? why are you flushing, switching to 12/12 or to crop?

I see now. I don't understand why your flushing, especially if you already suspect a deficiency, you should only really flush if you have nutrient lock, switching to 12/12 or ready to harvest?

Hmmmm. Not sure why you can't see the pictures...leaves are dis colored and curling up. The pictures really tell the story. I'm doing autoflowers so I will keep on 24/0 throughout the grow. I was thinking maybe the soil is two hot for the young plants so I was thinking about flushing to see if that helps.

*****Anyone else see the pictures?

There is obviously something wrong. Being inexperienced, I'm not really sure what it might be.

I have a ppm meter that will be here tomorrow... So was going to wait to see what the ppms are.

Don't love them to death.

nah, I wouldn't flush if I was you, just amend the water and nutrient intake till there happy again. remember to watch the new growth, not the old growth. it wont change back. only the new growth will show you if you've got it right

DogKnot said:

Don't love them to death.

Click to expand...

So you're saying just to leave them?

NITROGEN (N)
Pale plants, red stems, smaller growth. Rapid yellowing of lower leaves progressing up the plant. Add any chemical fertilizer containing N. Treated plants recover in about a week.
PHOSPHORUS (P)
Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.
POTASSIUM (K)
Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.
CALCIUM (Ca)
Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.
SULFER (S)
Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.
MAGNESIUM (Mg)
Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.
IRON (Fe)
Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.
MANGANESE (Mn)
Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.
BORON (B)
Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.
MOLYBDENUM (Mb)
Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.
ZINC (Zn)
White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.
OVER FERTILIZATION
Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.

this is taken from another forum. if your saying your plants are yellowing and browning at the tips then yes a flush would be required as you have put too much nutrients per water,

From looking at your plants I would say continue watering but only give them nutrients every third watering till they correct. little but often till you get a feel for its happiness. your plants look quite healthy if only for the slight discoloration I can see which can be easily amended by doing as above without the need to flush.

Swims_GD said:

nah, I wouldn't flush if I was you, just amend the water and nutrient intake till there happy again. remember to watch the new growth, not the old growth. it wont change back. only the new growth will show you if you've got it right

Click to expand...

Okay. I just watered on Friday, so probably won't need to water again until tues-weds. Given that I'm using FFOF, I wasn't planning on giving nutes until week 3. Does that sound okay? Thanks for taking time to help!

yeh week 3 should ok for soil grow, im not familiar with auto flower's so im not sure on there nutrient requirements, I know for normal 12/12 strains that during veg they eat a lot of nitrogen but then switching to flower they use next to none, when I had a hydro setup I was constantly adding nitrogen to the tank to battle yellowing growth, maybe you should chuck the question on the autoflower forum, you will probably get a better nutrient guide

most of the guys on there know there stuff!!

I like to use the weight of my pot to determine when to water.
I don"t feed until the plant tells me its hungry.

Swims~~Yeah, so I ran some water through the soil of the smaller plant (hijack) and ppms read 1200... That's way too high for a 5 day old. And that's no nutes; straight FFOF and perlite. I'm flushing right now to bring down to 600