HLG 260, how many for a 7x6 room?


They claim to flower a 2x4 space, so would 3 of these really be enough for a 7x6 room? Thinking of buying tonight while on offer, but unsure if their claims are true?
 

Gond00s

Well-Known Member
when I do the math that's only like 900 watts your gonna need 1500 to do the whole room don't cheap out
 

Gond00s

Well-Known Member
its better to run more qbs to more efficient so u should go get 3 per fixture not two boards because its running the boards at like 150 your getting 2.4 / 2.5 umol/j u can get 2.8 and use less power
 
when I do the math that's only like 900 watts your gonna need 1500 to do the whole room don't cheap out
Hey mate

I thought watts didn't matter when it came to QB, because the PAR is higher and its only PAR that actually matters? I don't get why they claim 2x4flower each light if it isn't true, why Ive been hesistant to get LEDs, seem to be so many false claims. Would you say QB are better than CMH? I am new obviously so the contradicting sources of info and claims are confusing the shit out of me lol.
 
its better to run more qbs to more efficient so u should go get 3 per fixture not two boards because its running the boards at like 150 your getting 2.4 / 2.5 umol/j u can get 2.8 and use less power
I am on a budget, building a 6x7 grow room for a sick relative for pain relief. Want to get good stuff but try and be as budget as possible. I am the sole provider for my family and just helping this relative with my spare cash, so trying to keep the costs low. These boards are currently on sale and I can't find a 3 board kit. The four board ones are considerably more cost per watt.
 

Gond00s

Well-Known Member
not the case at all because usually for sqft in a room your going to want to run 35watts a sqft u can get away with 30 but with 35 sqft across my whole room I have to say the par for every square foot is about the same I would love to test my par doe but those meters expensive as all hell in a 4x8 im running 12 quantum boards. 4 on a hlg 480 to much power for just those 4 then I have another 2 sets with the hlg 240a does a amazing job for the 4x8 when full flower I have to throw the whole room power consumption to just above 800 watts will be doubling my room soon another 12 r spec qbs are going to be bought soon
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
the V1 boards are quite a bit cheaper.. Perhaps you could order a bunch of these and make a few big rigs or something. I mean at 30$ a board... hell yea!

I run the v2 rspecs, I run 2x 320's and 1x 260 in my 5x5 and yield about 1 gpw right now. I am still dialing things in and it is a bit too much light, but they all dim down.

The best thing to do with these boards is get more and run them a little softer, you will get a better spread and better GPW
This is where things get very tricky in what you should invest in. Remember you want some space inbetween the fixtures for air but you also want an even light array

to really answer your question i'd do 5 of the 260's.
I would actually get the XL's to space out the boards a bit , and allow for future upgrades !
 

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
Hey mate

I thought watts didn't matter when it came to QB, because the PAR is higher and its only PAR that actually matters? I don't get why they claim 2x4flower each light if it isn't true, why Ive been hesistant to get LEDs, seem to be so many false claims. Would you say QB are better than CMH? I am new obviously so the contradicting sources of info and claims are confusing the shit out of me lol.
This is where a lot of confusion happens.
Ultimately, what we need to know is how much light(in photons of par) are we 'watering' over our canopy.
Since most growers don't have access to an accurate PAR meter, using power consumed in watts is a useful metric.
HPS, CMH and older tech 'blurple' leds need about 50 watts/ sq ft of the canopy to pump out enough photons to blanket that area.
Current tech diodes used in QB's need approx. 30 watts/ sq ft to achieve the same amount of photons.
That's the difference.
You have 42 sq ft of area, 30x42=1260 watts minimum for good flower production.
 

Nizza

Well-Known Member
Hey mate

I thought watts didn't matter when it came to QB, because the PAR is higher and its only PAR that actually matters? I don't get why they claim 2x4flower each light if it isn't true, why Ive been hesistant to get LEDs, seem to be so many false claims. Would you say QB are better than CMH? I am new obviously so the contradicting sources of info and claims are confusing the shit out of me lol.
Didn't see you'd be interested in CMH- This is where you consider heat gain/ loss
heat can easily be controlled with good ventilation, but depending if it is cold or hot outside this is money flying out your window (or exhaust hood)

If using LEDS in a hot house, you will have a hard time getting away with CMH-leds should work perfect here alone.
But in a cold house, especially in a basement, A few CMH mixed with LEDS will be perfect to try and get your leaf temps up for correct VPD.
I would run 2- 315 CMH per 3 or 4 260's
 

Gond00s

Well-Known Member
yea that's just a big fat scam u can do a build for 350 3 boards and a heatsink with a driver prob 360 with the nepa cord so I wouldn't buy from their that's just a rip off imo
 

Gond00s

Well-Known Member
This is where a lot of confusion happens.
Ultimately, what we need to know is how much light(in photons of par) are we 'watering' over our canopy.
Since most growers don't have access to an accurate PAR meter, using power consumed in watts is a useful metric.
HPS, CMH and older tech 'blurple' leds need about 50 watts/ sq ft of the canopy to pump out enough photons to blanket that area.
Current tech diodes used in QB's need approx. 30 watts/ sq ft to achieve the same amount of photons.
That's the difference.
You have 42 sq ft of area, 30x42=1260 watts minimum for good flower production.
but the thing is he would have to run 35 watts a sqft because those aren't top efficacy those will be 2.4/2.5 umol/j because the 30 watts at that efficacy is not the best like it'll work its just better to run more boards in general because it makes the light more efficient


Flux Characteristics with QB 288 V2 3000K at 55C


VDCCurrent (mA)Watts at Board Lm/W at Board (55C)μmoles/joule at Board (55C)
45.7250022.862063.00
46.98105049.33196.102.85
47.70140066.78190.502.77
48.962100102.82180.772.63
49.502400118.80177.502.58
49.862800139.60173.802.53
 
but the thing is he would have to run 35 watts a sqft because those aren't top efficacy those will be 2.4/2.5 umol/j because the 30 watts at that efficacy is not the best like it'll work its just better to run more boards in general because it makes the light more efficient


Flux Characteristics with QB 288 V2 3000K at 55C


VDCCurrent (mA)Watts at BoardLm/W at Board (55C)μmoles/joule at Board (55C)
45.7250022.862063.00
46.98105049.33196.102.85
47.70140066.78190.502.77
48.962100102.82180.772.63
49.502400118.80177.502.58
49.862800139.60173.802.53

How would two of these do mate? Do chinese boards have quality issues and high failure rates? Seem to be massively different views on them but wow are they cheaper.
 

Gond00s

Well-Known Member
I’ll give u that they are way cheaper I just don’t trust their uv for ugh u can go many ways that would be better than chips im using agromaxpureuvs just don’t sit under them or look at them at all when their on but led chips that emit uv are garbage change my mind and no fighting I want proof and facts with uv If anyone wanna wanna provide you see the f chips are worth go for it but Ik for fact that these bars work for uv I’m using used led chips for a while didn’t have the result as I had with the pureuvs
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member

They claim to flower a 2x4 space, so would 3 of these really be enough for a 7x6 room? Thinking of buying tonight while on offer, but unsure if their claims are true?
If you want to go this route Buy the v1 boards from hlg (us) for $29 a board( use riu10 for 10% off too ), that roughly works out around £29 after tax and shipping if I remember right.
Then buy the twin heat sinks from diyleduk (his website will be back up soon). If he has any left they were £14 each, they are $69 from HLG and they are the exact same thing.

Then buy an meanwell XLG 240w driver , two boards, one driver per twin heatsink. You should be able to boost the driver to get 280w out of it.
Then aim for 30w per square foot.

and yeah they do cover a 2x4 very well.
With the XLG driver putting out a bit more wattage 10 boards, 5 heatsinks, 5 drivers will light the room.
Don't forget you need room to move and work in there!
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Heatsink £14
two boards £58
Driver £35-40

£107-112 per 2x4 space, plus a some 1mm twin and earth for a few quid and some chain to hang.
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Do you know of any places in the UK I can order from? Shipping from the US will be very costly. I will see if HLG EU do the items seperately.
No shipping will not be expensive from US , though I don't remember the exact price I got charged since it was a couple of years ago.
But since you would hopefully only be ordering the boards the weight will be less anyway.
By the time you've taken currency exchange into account and 10% discount it works out dollar for pound, least it used to.

Hopefully diyled still has the twin heat sinks, because you wont find a better price than those, not even in china. He's clearing his old stock.
 
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