HLG/ Mars/ other? sale guidance

D

DanKNes$

Member
New to the board, just been a reader, but bout time I joined up (I can open pictures now!)
I was grower about 10 years ago: back in the day using floors, MH, and HPS... So very new to these different LED options.

Any how, my current amazon blurple needs to go, and I'm drooling over the some turkey day sales. It served me well enough so far in my 4x4 tent with only 3 plants this grow. Been makin bushes- working LST/ SOG and just translanted them to the final homes in 3g pots. I've always known this light wouldnt make it to harvest (the way I want), and intended on upgrading at about this time.
SO,
Looking hard at HLG, but also like what i see from MARSHYdRO or Spiderfarm. Im sure some of the mid range lights would be a big upgrade to my "waykeme 600 watt full spectrum" Amazon blurple. Been running both veg and flower modes at all times since about week 4 of the clones life.. For rooting and first soil cup it was just veg mode. Aside from the poor spectrum, the actual draw being~130 watts, I don't trust it for the next stages.

Would love some guidance in light selection. My grow budget is about negative 17 bucks right now, so I can't go for the gold THIS grow. Probably have to be in the $100-150 range. Maybe one of these?or similar?

Looking hard at-

The HLG 100 v2
OR
135W QB V2 RSPEC LED KIT


Thanks for any and all input

DIY kits seem the best bang for the buck; I'm semi electrical (car stereo systems and low level stuff around the house)
 
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GrassBurner

GrassBurner

Well-Known Member
Id go diy and look into qb120's from HLG, ive got 4 running in a 2x4 and love them. Hard to beat for the price. 70 watts per board and no heatsink required. 8 boards and (2) 240 watt drivers would be perfect in your 4x4. Ive got a few Meanwell HLG drivers, but just picked up a Delta driver a few weeks ago. Impressive quality and good prices.
 
D

DanKNes$

Member
Ok, first of all my initial post was a mess... thats my bad. The edit is still a literary disaster (probably won't get much better) but should be coherent enough to get the job done.

Secondly, I have no idea how to give a thumbs up- and may have done something different? So my bad if I "reported" anyone or anything.


Ok, ya... budget. I'm on the home owner with a wife and 3 kids during Covid on blackfriday before Christmas and Santa coming "tight budget"... not the eating Ramen and struggling to put gas "tight budget". Been there done that, but today I just need value, bang for buck, mid range (150-300 actual watt?), quality LEDs, decent board, better coverage/ penetrarion for what I got, at an easy to pitch the wife type of deal.

Can't go HLG300 atm, so am I better off just waiting?

Alibaba? Kinda nervous to buy there but they had deals like crazy before today so maybe? Never messed with that site
 
PJ Diaz

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Roshambizzle said:
If you are on a tight budget HLG is probably the last brand you want to look at.
Click to expand...
DanKNes$ said:
New to the board, just been a reader, but bout time I joined up (I can open pictures now!)
I was grower about 10 years ago: back in the day using floors, MH, and HPS... So very new to these different LED options.

Any how, my current amazon blurple needs to go, and I'm drooling over the some turkey day sales. It served me well enough so far in my 4x4 tent with only 3 plants this grow. Been makin bushes- working LST/ SOG and just translanted them to the final homes in 3g pots. I've always known this light wouldnt make it to harvest (the way I want), and intended on upgrading at about this time.
SO,
Looking hard at HLG, but also like what i see from MARSHYdRO or Spiderfarm. Im sure some of the mid range lights would be a big upgrade to my "waykeme 600 watt full spectrum" Amazon blurple. Been running both veg and flower modes at all times since about week 4 of the clones life.. For rooting and first soil cup it was just veg mode. Aside from the poor spectrum, the actual draw being~130 watts, I don't trust it for the next stages.

Would love some guidance in light selection. My grow budget is about negative 17 bucks right now, so I can't go for the gold THIS grow. Probably have to be in the $100-150 range. Maybe one of these?or similar?

Looking hard at-

The HLG 100 v2
OR
135W QB V2 RSPEC LED KIT


Thanks for any and all input

DIY kits seem the best bang for the buck; I'm semi electrical (car stereo systems and low level stuff around the house)
Click to expand...
Consider an atypical HLG 185watt system, for around $150 all done. Get a Meanwell HLG-185H-54A driver ($50) and a HLG QB96 elite v2 ($70, plus 10% off with the riu10 code, or save 20% now with their current sale). Add a bit for wires and a wall connector, plus a hanging cable and you're done.
 
D

DanKNes$

Member
PJ Diaz said:
Consider an atypical HLG 185watt system, for around $150 all done. Get a Meanwell HLG-185H-54A driver ($50) and a HLG QB96 elite v2 ($70, plus 10% off with the riu10 code, or save 20% now with their current sale). Add a bit for wires and a wall connector, plus a hanging cable and you're done.
Click to expand...
This can all be found on the HLG website, and not as a kit right? Will this setup allow me to control the output, to run the lights at say 50-75% for maximum efficiency?
 
D

DanKNes$

Member
Id rather miss the Turkey day sales and buy right- buy once... so I'm still researching.

Opinions on bargain lights, diy, or deals are welcomed. No need to get into this vs that, but I appreciate quality parts. Not opposed to foreign, just wouldn't know where to look.
Here's what I gather id want to have in this next light-
Samsung LEDs (not all are equal)
Meanwell driver
150-200 actual watts
 
PJ Diaz

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
DanKNes$ said:
This can all be found on the HLG website, and not as a kit right? Will this setup allow me to control the output, to run the lights at say 50-75% for maximum efficiency?
Click to expand...
The OB96 is on HLG's site. You can get the driver from digikey, arrow, or someone else. Yes, the "A" at the end of the diver model designates that it is dimmable by voltage and current. I got my cable hangers and connectors from Amazon.
 
cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
A ist just voltage, AB type is voltage and current, you may mixed something up.
forgot that a types also offer the Io screw sometimes.
A only also means no propper dimming (10-100%).
 
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7CardBud

7CardBud

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
A ist just voltage, AB type is voltage and current, you may mixed something up.
A only also means no propper dimming (10-100%).
Click to expand...
It's a little trickier than that.

On CC models:
[A] is current adjust by on board pot
[AB] is current adjust by on board pot and 3-1 dimming

on CC+CV models
[A] is current and voltage adjust by on board pots
[AB] is current and voltage adjust by on board pots and 3-1 dimming

DanKNes$ said:
Id rather miss the Turkey day sales and buy right- buy once... so I'm still researching.

Opinions on bargain lights, diy, or deals are welcomed. No need to get into this vs that, but I appreciate quality parts. Not opposed to foreign, just wouldn't know where to look.
Here's what I gather id want to have in this next light-
Samsung LEDs (not all are equal)
Meanwell driver
150-200 actual watts
Click to expand...

If you have the basics around the house, like butt connectors, shrink tube, soldering iron etc, this would be a solid build for around $200

Information - Horticulture Lighting Group - Checkout

HLG-240H-54AB MEAN WELL | Mouser

Grab a 10K resistor and a 100K pot and you should be ready to rock.
 
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cobshopgrow

cobshopgrow

Well-Known Member
i mixed something up as i am no user of any A type only driver.
but its less complicated them most ppl think.

CC means contant current.
CV means constant voltage.

the voltage influence the current indirect, no matter which version youre using.
the same is true for the current, if you change that then you change the voltage too.
but i see what youre youre refering to that some meanwell A types seems to have also both screws for V and I.

its written also on every knob.
Vo = for voltage
Io = for current

i am aware of a few meanwell xlg AB type drivers who only offer a setscrew for Io (ampere, current).

to make it a bit more confusing every meanwell driver, even the A versions, offer a CC and CV region,
even the HLG-240-24A offer a constant current region of 12-24V f.e. (from the datasheet),
there isnt really a CC only version avaiable, see note 4 of pretty much every meanwell datasheet.
no matter which xlg or hlg type, there is always a CC region stated.
where is a CC only one?
 
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D

DanKNes$

Member
7CardBud said:
It's a little trickier than that.

On CC models:
[A] is current adjust by on board pot
[AB] is current adjust by on board pot and 3-1 dimming

on CC+CV models
[A] is current and voltage adjust by on board pots
[AB] is current and voltage adjust by on board pots and 3-1 dimming




If you have the basics around the house, like butt connectors, shrink tube, soldering iron etc, this would be a solid build for around $200

Information - Horticulture Lighting Group - Checkout

HLG-240H-54AB MEAN WELL | Mouser

Grab a 10K resistor and a 100K pot and you should be ready to rock.
Click to expand...
A solid light with top notch parts for around 200$ sounds right on point man thanks
I dig it... only, the Driver is on back order in that 2nd link until Feb... HLG doesn't sell just the driver? Or the kit for the suggested panel and driver?

I'm sure Google can answer, but what do I do with the resistor? 100k pot? #noob
 
PJ Diaz

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
DanKNes$ said:
A solid light with top notch parts for around 200$ sounds right on point man thanks
I dig it... only, the Driver is on back order in that 2nd link until Feb... HLG doesn't sell just the driver? Or the kit for the suggested panel and driver?

I'm sure Google can answer, but what do I do with the resistor? 100k pot? #noob
Click to expand...
If you're willing to spend $200, I'd get 2 QB96's and a Meanwell HLG-240H-54A driver, then run them in parallel off that driver. You can push that to close to 300watts total, and you can always add another one later.
 
KK26

KK26

Well-Known Member
GrassBurner said:
Id go diy and look into qb120's from HLG, ive got 4 running in a 2x4 and love them. Hard to beat for the price. 70 watts per board and no heatsink required. 8 boards and (2) 240 watt drivers would be perfect in your 4x4. Ive got a few Meanwell HLG drivers, but just picked up a Delta driver a few weeks ago. Impressive quality and good prices.
Click to expand...
Quick question if I may please.

Those Delta Drivers, which specific model do you use?

Some have dimming built in right or am I talking shit?
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
7CardBud said:
It's a little trickier than that.

On CC models:
[A] is current adjust by on board pot
[AB] is current adjust by on board pot and 3-1 dimming

on CC+CV models
[A] is current and voltage adjust by on board pots
[AB] is current and voltage adjust by on board pots and 3-1 dimming




If you have the basics around the house, like butt connectors, shrink tube, soldering iron etc, this would be a solid build for around $200

Information - Horticulture Lighting Group - Checkout

HLG-240H-54AB MEAN WELL | Mouser

Grab a 10K resistor and a 100K pot and you should be ready to rock.
Click to expand...
Could you explain the resistor thing more. A potentiometer came with 2 of my HLG 260 kits and I just attached it without a resistor. I'm following the rest pretty much. Thanks.
 
GrassBurner

GrassBurner

Well-Known Member
Oh yeah, the Delta driver I got has a Vo ADJ and a lo ADJ on the side. Ive got a buddy that's much more knowledgeable on the subject, and he recommended the Delts drivers. They're heavy duty, IP65 rated, and $20 cheaper than the comparable HLG. Im using it to power (10) Samsung L09 strips.
20201128_165850.jpg
20201128_165908.jpg
@ilovereggae could @DanKNes$ use this same Delta driver to run 4 qb120's? They are 48v, 2.8 max current, 70 watts max per board. Would the LNE-48V320WAA work wired in paralell? Would save him $20.
 
L

loco41

Well-Known Member
KK26 said:
Quick question if I may please.

Those Delta Drivers, which specific model do you use?

Some have dimming built in right or am I talking shit?
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure they have the same two options as the hlg meanwells, one like @GrassBurner just posted with the io and vo on board being the WAAA version and also the WDAA version which is dimmed via a potentiometer.

Arrow still has a few varieties of the delta lne drivers at a nice discounted rate. Just at a quick glance, had a couple different 48V driver for under $20 per driver.


 
7CardBud

7CardBud

Well-Known Member
cobshopgrow said:
i mixed something up as i am no user of any A type only driver.
but its less complicated them most ppl think.

CC means contant current.
CV means constant voltage.

the voltage influence the current indirect, no matter which version youre using.
the same is true for the current, if you change that then you change the voltage too.
but i see what youre youre refering to that some meanwell A types seems to have also both screws for V and I.

its written also on every knob.
Vo = for voltage
Io = for current

i am aware of a few meanwell xlg AB type drivers who only offer a setscrew for Io (ampere, current).

to make it a bit more confusing every meanwell driver, even the A versions, offer a CC and CV region,
even the HLG-240-24A offer a constant current region of 12-24V f.e. (from the datasheet),
there isnt really a CC only version avaiable, see note 4 of pretty much every meanwell datasheet.
no matter which xlg or hlg type, there is always a CC region stated.
where is a CC only one?
Click to expand...
I was just going by Mean Well's product labeling.
If the last set of numbers is referring to amperage like HLG-240H-C2100A they call it a CC driver
If the last set of numbers is referring to voltage like HLG-240H-54A the call it a CC+CV driver

Other than a few small design differences the only real difference I notice is the CXXXX series is geared toward series circuits and the other is for parallel circuits.

PadawanWarrior said:
Could you explain the resistor thing more. A potentiometer came with 2 of my HLG 260 kits and I just attached it without a resistor. I'm following the rest pretty much. Thanks.
Click to expand...
HLG resistance dimming is from 10K-100K. The resistor is to help give you more useable range in case you get a pot with bad tolerances.
Most cheapo pots are +/- 20% (which I'm sure HLG includes). So if you get a pot that is 115K your fine and can run from 10%-100%. If you get a pot that is 85K you can run from 10%-85%, but with the added resistor you can go up to 95%. Only sure bet is to measure the pot range and add the appropriate resistor if needed.

DanKNes$ said:
A solid light with top notch parts for around 200$ sounds right on point man thanks
I dig it... only, the Driver is on back order in that 2nd link until Feb... HLG doesn't sell just the driver? Or the kit for the suggested panel and driver?

I'm sure Google can answer, but what do I do with the resistor? 100k pot? #noob
Click to expand...

You can use Findchip to look for other suppliers HLG-240-54AB Stock and Price by Distributor (findchips.com)

A lot of good suggestions here to make some killer lights...
Best penetration QB96's
Best coverage QB120's
Middle of the road QB288 2 slate

If you can do a car stereo a LED light is nothing. There are plenty of cool people here that can help you with the lil' knick knack shit.
GL
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
7CardBud said:
I was just going by Mean Well's product labeling.
If the last set of numbers is referring to amperage like HLG-240H-C2100A they call it a CC driver
If the last set of numbers is referring to voltage like HLG-240H-54A the call it a CC+CV driver

Other than a few small design differences the only real difference I notice is the CXXXX series is geared toward series circuits and the other is for parallel circuits.



HLG resistance dimming is from 10K-100K. The resistor is to help give you more useable range in case you get a pot with bad tolerances.
Most cheapo pots are +/- 20% (which I'm sure HLG includes). So if you get a pot that is 115K your fine and can run from 10%-100%. If you get a pot that is 85K you can run from 10%-85%, but with the added resistor you can go up to 95%. Only sure bet is to measure the pot range and add the appropriate resistor if needed.




You can use Findchip to look for other suppliers HLG-240-54AB Stock and Price by Distributor (findchips.com)

A lot of good suggestions here to make some killer lights...
Best penetration QB96's
Best coverage QB120's
Middle of the road QB288 2 slate

If you can do a car stereo a LED light is nothing. There are plenty of cool people here that can help you with the lil' knick knack shit.
GL
Click to expand...
Interesting. The HLG 260 that has the potentiometer won't go as high as the 260's with the type-a drivers. The potentiometer one maxed out at like 250, where the other will go a little higher.

So if I add a 10k resistor, you think I might get more wattage out of it?
 
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