Home improvement thread

ChingOwn

ChingOwn

Well-Known Member
Im starting this thread for all yall whos gots to be workin on the house all day saturday. Its good to share and ask questions with people who have probably been through the same shit before.

So Currently I'm pricing refrigerated air installation any body got .02 they wants to throw in on that house size is about 1672sq ft so I guess I needs a 5 ton..probably heater replace and, if I dont want to do reducting a f=roof mount unit....
 
ClaytonBigsby said:
5 ton?!?!?!? Waaay too much for 1700 sf. Your ducts are very important. Make sure they are wrapped tight. Make sure you are well insulated (and ventilated) and a small heat pump should be fine.
Click to expand...
Sizing – Base System Pricing:

For central air conditioning, our incremental cost from 2 tons to 5 tons of refrigerated air capacity, is so small that we charge the same installed price. From a price point of view you can therefore concentrate on the number of heating systems as the main driver of project cost. While size is not a factor in your price, for optimal home comfort “bigger” is not necessarily “better”. An oversized system can freeze due to duct restriction and not optimally dehumidify your home, so sizing is important and the range (tons of capacity per square foot) is generally 300 – 800 square feet per ton:

A) 300 square feet per ton – Older homes with single pane windows and limited insulation

B) 400 square feet per ton – historic average sizing

C) 800 square feet per ton – super insulated homes designed to approach $0 net energy consumption, that have zone control and indoor air quality well addressed.

The calculator will price three efficiency level options for sizes from 2 – 5 tons.


Im not sure if this confirms or denies your statement.
 
ChingOwn said:
Sizing – Base System Pricing:

For central air conditioning, our incremental cost from 2 tons to 5 tons of refrigerated air capacity, is so small that we charge the same installed price. From a price point of view you can therefore concentrate on the number of heating systems as the main driver of project cost. While size is not a factor in your price, for optimal home comfort “bigger” is not necessarily “better”. An oversized system can freeze due to duct restriction and not optimally dehumidify your home, so sizing is important and the range (tons of capacity per square foot) is generally 300 – 800 square feet per ton:

A) 300 square feet per ton – Older homes with single pane windows and limited insulation

B) 400 square feet per ton – historic average sizing

C) 800 square feet per ton – super insulated homes designed to approach $0 net energy consumption, that have zone control and indoor air quality well addressed.

The calculator will price three efficiency level options for sizes from 2 – 5 tons.


Im not sure if this confirms or denies your statement.
Click to expand...



That looks pretty ridiculous to me. How technical do you want to get?

A major factor is your temperature in the coldest months, as a heat pumps efficiency drops significantly the colder it gets (20 degrees and below). If you really want to make your head hurt, let me know and I will shoot you some worksheets.

Geothermal isn;t cost effective at that size. I;m guessing the yard is not that big and you would have to dig up the whole yard to drop the lines for the system.

Biggest bang for your buck is insulation and making sure the ducts are airtight.
 
tytheguy111 said:
open a damn window

then in the winter close the window
Click to expand...
God dammit Ty if gonna be a redneck be a redneck an open window does not help in 115 degree heat...

What you do is plant a big bush outside in front of the window, then you put a box fan in the window, then you go outside and spray the bush down with a hose, then go back inside and turn the fan on...swamp cooler got nothin on that
 
ChingOwn said:
God dammit Ty if gonna be a redneck be a redneck an open window does not help in 115 degree heat...

What you do is plant a big bush outside in front of the window, then you put a box fan in the window, then you go outside and spray the bush down with a hose, then go back inside and turn the fan on...swamp cooler got nothin on that
Click to expand...

....then in winter close the window?
 
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