homebox L, with 400W agrosun mh.

loving the bud porn man can't wait to see dried weight

i hope all is well with your plants.

yea man. those buds are frosting up nice. should be some killer smoke.

So man, what is the update? Can not wait to see your lady get thicker! What do you think, around a oz or what?

hey guys, went snowboarding this weekend. i flooded the plant before i left with just water and it looks just fine now. its looking the same just thickening up a bit. smell is starting to become pretty noticeable. im hoping for an oz of bud. pics to come.

can't wait to see some pics of your girls and besides bubblicious that i'm growing: my bro is growing red diesel, whitewidow, nebula, jungle wreck, strawberry haze, train wreck, chocolate chunk and big bang. lol what can i say he likes alittle of everything lol

pics as promised. took these today, feb 2.

There's a lot of orange/red hairs starting to show. the plant is on day 39 of flower. i vegged from November 24th to December 25th. How long do you estimate until it's done. It may be too early to tell. But don't most go for around 60 days give or take a few? It's sticky to the touch, and has more odor going on.

Nice pics man thanks! That main coal is gonna swell up like crazy!

id maybe estimate alittle more then a oz,but um u can go to radio shack and grab a hand telescope and look at the trichomes to tell when it's rdy.

kief13 said:

id maybe estimate alittle more then a oz,but um u can go to radio shack and grab a hand telescope and look at the trichomes to tell when it's rdy.

Click to expand...

yea dude... i used to have one, but let a old friend borrow it and havnt talked to him in a while. ill probably just get another one. thanks for all the feedback guys!!!

Yea man, looking great! The trichome scope is good to have but there's also other ways to tell. The pistils can be a pretty good guide, although some strains will keep white pistils well past maturity. Also, the whole color of the plant (especially the buds) will generally become more golden when it becomes ripe. 60 days is an average flower time but strains can finish as fast as 6 weeks or take as long as 12+. Anyway, judging on your pistils' color and the bud growth I would say you have the 7-8 week variety. So day 60 should be good. And I'm not great at estimating yield but it looks to me like an oz would be a pretty conservative estimate. I guess more like two. Wherever you see white pistils there is still a lot of bud swelling to happen.

heres a size reference... and a bump!!

i've seen plenty of sexy females in my life but that female in the pic is far the best.

can i cut these big fan leaves at the bottom of the plant? i been reading this chart....ill paste it here

NITROGEN (N) Pale plants, red stems, smaller growth. Rapid yellowing of lower leaves progressing up the plant. Add any chemical fertilizer containing N. Treated plants recover in about a week.

PHOSPHORUS (P) Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.

POTASSIUM (K) Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.

CALCIUM (Ca) Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.

SULFER (S) Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.

MAGNESIUM (Mg) Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.

IRON (Fe) Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.

MANGANESE (Mn) Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.

BORON (B) Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.

MOLYBDENUM (Mb) Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.

ZINC (Zn) White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.

OVER FERTILIZATION Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.
heres the pics... give me your opinions!!!!!!

That's K def. I forget - are you using a PK booster (sometimes called a flower hardener or bloom booster)? This is pretty important for the second half of flower or you will run into these problems of purple stems and necrotic patches. If you are already using one I would just up the dosage. You don't have to worry as much about N burn during flower because bloom nutes are very low in nitrogen. It's hard to overdose them on P and K so don't be afraid to load it up. I wouldn't cut any leaf that is more than 50% green or so. It is still contributing to the health of the plant even though it's not pretty to look at.

thank you man... i was using beastie bloomz.... but thought these problems were from that. so i should load it up on it huh?

Yea, just go with label strength for any bloom nutes. Unlike nitrogen, the plant will uptake only the P and K that it needs, leaving the rest in the medium. So even if you put in more than it needs it will simply be washed out with the next watering. Beastie Bloomz is a good and reputable product. It won't damage your plant.