Hormones /PGR`s/Vitimans - Research Thread Only

[eza82]

PART 2# Minerals & Micronutrients
The nutrient uptake by cannabis reaches it maximum just before maturity and blossoming.
Nitrogen and phosphorus uptake then increase up to 250%, and potassium requirements increase 400%.
The uptake of calcium and magnesium increases 150%. Additional amounts of nutrients must be readily available to the plants at that time in order to produce maximum yields.
Cannibis consumes about 1 kg of nutrients for each kg of bud it produces.

N
Causes cannabis to grow rapidly as seedlings, but the plants wilt, turn to copper-brown.
High levels of N in the middle of the growth cycle will cause water uptake to increase.Excess N added inhibits stem development.
Best results are obtained by adding half of the required N in the primary treatment, and the second half at the first feeding. If the initial growth of a plant is slow, it can be aided by a foliar spray

P : "To obtain high yields, it is necessary to assure the plants an easily accessible source of phosphoric acid
by applying granulated superphosphate at the very beginning of development, best absorption is before the plants have reached the phase of 6 pairs of leaves. concentration of THC are positively correlated with extractable phosphate. Cannabis uses 250% more phosphorus at flowering than during the vegetative phase

K
The absorption of K is most intense in the 4th week after germination. The supply of K should be reduced by 50% during flowering.

Ca
--- Calcium gives cannabis very strong, fibrous, short stems with dark green leaves and swollen flowers. An adequate supply is vital in the 6th-9th weeks of growth

Trace Elements
--- Micronutrient deficiencies often are caused by alkaline water, which prevents uptake by plants. Such deficiencies usually can be covered by the use of commercially available "transplanting solutions" and by adjusting the grow medium to neutral pH.

Mg --- Cannabis is very sensitive to magnesium deficiency, Hemp has an extraordinarily high requirement for Mg, and is exceptional in comparison to most other plants, which are killed by applications of Mg alone. Combinations of K and Mg give the highest yields, which increase considerably with an increase in the MgA.
Haraszty conducted experiments for 10 years to augment the yield of hemp fiber with macro- and micronutrients (tested in over 50 combinations). He found significant effects with formulations containing K, Mn and Mg (applied in the form of their sulfates at 10 kg/ha), by which he achieved up to 32% increases in fiber quantity

Fe
--- Powdered magnetite (magnetic iron oxide) will supply sufficient Fe, and it stimulates plant growth by the effect of magnetic energy. 10 ppm of Fe gives the best growth ; 5 ppm gives the best yield for flower.

Mn
--- A deficiency of manganese will stunt the growth and flowering of hemp. Leaves appear mottled with grey-brown necrotic spots. The plants lack vitamin C; there are some deaths. Signs of deficiency first appear on shoots. Leaf margins remain green while the rest of the leaf turns yellow or white.
S
--- Sulfur stimulates root growth and seed production. S-deficient hemp is pale green, with purple veins. The stem is stiff, woody, and thin; the seeds are immature.

B
--- Boron . When sufficient P and K are available, an additional application of boric acid ,Cu-sulfate, and Mn-sulfate will produce a significant increase in yields and in the quality. A deficiency of B is revealed by cracked, stunted stems and dry rot. Leaves turn purple, terminal shoots curl and die, petioles become brittle, and the flowers are covered with dry areas. New shoots turn gray or brown and die with a burnt appearance. The situation can be corrected with a foliar spray of boric acid.

Cu
--- Cannabis does not have a high tolerance for copper, but supplementary Cu-sulfate will improve the quality and yield of cannabis, especially in peat, which often is deficient in this element. A deficiency causes stems to weaken and break.

Mo
--- A deficiency of molybdenum is indicated by yellowing between veins on leaves. The middle leaves turn yellow.
Zn
--- A deficiency of zinc is indicated by chlorosis between the veins at the base of shoots, and by the accompanying twist of leaf blades.
Flowering is inhibited. Over-watering produces symptoms resembling nutrient deficiencies or excesses. These usually can be corrected by reducing the water supply, or by drainage

PART 3
The production of cannabinoids (THC, CBN, CBD, etc.) is greatly influenced by nutrients.
As soil N increases relative to Mg, CBD increases relative to CBN. Increasing the ratio of N to Cu increases the level of CBD. Increasing amounts of P convert CBN to THC.
Low to medium levels of P produces a high level of CBD, but CBD decreases with high levels of P.
Low levels (levels less than 40 ppm) of Mg produce more CBD than do high levels of Mg. As levels of Mg increase relative to Ca, the concentration of THC decreases.
The concentration of Mg and Fe in leaves is positively correlated to THC levels.
Potassium increases the concentration of CBN by effecting the dehydrogenation of THC. An excess of K in the 3rd month will inhibit resin production. Excess Ca will inhibit resin production, and it increases the production of CBD in the resin is produced.
Either an excess or deficiency of Mg produces more CBD. 5 ppm Fe gives highest yields of THC.

The recommended "ideal" pattern of nutrient application for cannabinoid production is said to be: high N and K, low Ca, and medium Mg during the first 2 months of growth, continued high N and K, medium Mg, and increased Ca during the next 6-8 weeks, followed by decreased N, K, and Ca, and increased Mg through the flowering phase.

Many growers use a commercial 15-30-30 formula throughout the season.

Mel Frank offers this micronutrient formula for high cannabinoid production: Fe-sulfate (5 mg/gal), Cu-sulfate (0.2 mg/gal), Mn-sulfate (2 mg/gal), Zn-sulfate (0.2 mg/gal), Boric acid (2 mg/gal), Molybdenic acid (0.1 mg/gal). Use 1 tspn/gal of nutrient solution, once monthly. Bill Drake gives this recipe in

marijuana: The Cultivator’s Handbook
: Ca-sulfate (6 oz), mono-Ca-phosphate (4 oz), Mg-sulfate (6 oz), K-nitrate (8 oz), and Fe-sulfate (1 gr). Use 1 tspn/gal.

 

[eza82]

part 4 # MY THEORY ! ON BIG FAT FEMALES...................

The entire plant contains several hundred known chemicals/hormones/vitimins etc
But the sexual expression of cannabis is determined by its genetic makeup, and by its metabolic temper,
Which is regulated by the male enzyme andrase and the female enzyme gynase.
Environmental & atmosphereic conditions (light, nutrients, soil and water) are keys and may suppress or induce the formation of the dominant enzyme, and allow the opposite sex to express itself partially (hermaphroditism) or completely as a THC bleeding beautiful lady.
Transition of female cannibis plants from the vegetative to the flowering phase is associated with a rise in Phos and cytokinin level, while that of male proceeds at a decreasing cytokinin level with an increase in Nitrogen.
The activity of cytokinins,avalablity of Gibberellin and level of PHOS are all apparently associated with an enhancement of the female tendency.

 

[eza82]

Triacontanol is a fatty alcohol found in many plants. It increases growth rates and yields up to 25%, and increases the protein content, even during darkness when plants usually are dormant. Triacontanol seems to enhance the growth of plants without increasing their consumption of nitrogen. The simplest way to use triacontanol is to plow under a crop of alfalfa, which contains relatively large amounts of the substance. Triacontanol is extracted from sunflower seeds or alfalfa by chloroform; filter and evaporate the solution to yield crude triacontanol. The dosage is 1 ppm in water.

 

[eza82]

FEM SEEDS YOUR SELF..
The following procedure will produce seeds which will grow 100% female
: Cultivate two separate groups of female plants indoors. The plants should receive at least 50 watts of light per square foot of growing area. One group must not receive more than 7 hours of light daily. This will induce male flowers to manifest on the female plants. The second group of females must receive about 16 hours of light daily to ensure that no male flowers develop on them. The long photoperiod also inhibits the development of flowers so much that the short-day plants will mature 2 or 3 weeks before the long-day group. Therefore, begin cultivating the long-day females at least 2 weeks before planting the short-day plants. As the two groups approach maturity, remove any males which may appear. A few weeks before the male hemp begins to flower, the internodes of the stem begin to elongate very quickly. The dominant male enzyme andrase produces thin plants with a tuft of leaves at the top. The leaves are smaller than those of the females, and have fewer leaflets (usually 5). Tiny buds sometimes appear in the nodes about 2/3 up the stalk. The future sexual expression of hemp may be determined by examining these premature flowers. If the buds remain erect, the plant is female. If the buds droop, the plant is male. When clusters of female buds begin to appear on plants in the long-day group, cover each bud with a transparent plastic bag sealed with a rubber band around the stem below the bud cluster, so as to protect the flowers from accidental pollination. When male buds appear on some of the female plants in the short-day group, cover each bud with a transparent bag sealed with a rubber band around the stem below the bud cluster, so as to protect the female flowers from accidental pollination. When male buds appear on some of the females in the short-day group, carefully cut off every male bud and store them in a glass jar. Any new male buds which appear also must be pruned. Within a few days the anthers of the clipped buds will open and release pollen. Collect this pollen and apply it with a thin brush to the stigmas of the bagged flowers in the long-day group. Because this pollen contains only female chromosomes, the fertilized female flowers on the long-day female group will develop seeds which will produce only female plants.

How To Reverse Sex Using Silver Thiosulfate Solution



---------------------------------


METHOD 1#

How To Reverse Sex Using Silver Thiosulfate Solution

The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.

This process can be used to:

A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones

At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.

It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference.


1. mix 2.6 grams of sodium thiosulphate into 600ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.

2. mix .7 grams of silver nitrate into 100ml of distilled water and mix thoroughly.

3. mix silver nitrate solution into sodium thiosulphate solution while stirring rapidly.

4. top off mixture with distilled water to fill a glass quart jar (canning jar type).

5. use this mix at a 3:1 ratio with distilled water and spray plants to point of run-off.

6. repeat process in 3 days, move target females in at 5 days.

use common safety precautions. rubber gloves, safety glasses, skin covered, respirator preferred.

3:1 ratio of distilled water to stock mix of STS can be played with some. some people use it as diluted as 9:1 and some run it as hot as 1:1.


"Marijuana Botany" by Robert Connell Clarke
(unfortunately missing the appendices)
http://www.geocities.com/hempgenes/Botany.html

It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.

Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.


METHOD 2#

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.



The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

Effects:

Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very careful: pollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.



Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.

Here are links to some safety data. A Google search will bring up more information if needed.

Silver Nitrate info:
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ipcsneng/neng1116.html
http://www.lions.odu.edu/~redwards/... solution.pdf

For a realistic hazard level comparison, here is a link for the safety and handling data for Ammonium Nitrate, or common fertilizer:
http://www.skcgulfcoast.com/nioshdb...ng/neng0216.htm

Sodium thiosulfate is also a white crystalline chemical commonly used in photography; it is used in photographic fixers. Same general cautions apply, minus the staining. This formula uses the anhydrous type. Non-hazardous.

Sodium Thiosulfate info:
http://ptcl.chem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/SO/s...hiosulfate.html
http://www.med-chem.com/MSDS/Sodium_Thiosulf.htm

------------------

Where to get the chemicals:

http://www.photoformulary.com

silver nitrate: 10 grams: $10
http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt...yID=27&langID=0

sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous): 100 grams: $3.95
http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskt...yID=28&langID=0

Postage runs around $4. Fast service. Can be shipped to Canada.







STS For Sex Reversal: Conclusions

I wanted to post some conclusions that I have come to regarding the successful reversal of plants using silver thiosulfate solution. It's been a year since I posted the other STS thread. I have done six batches myself, and have had full pollen release with all of them. Everyone else seems to be doing well, but there is very little feedback so who knows. A big thanks to those who contributed to the other thread... your input was a big help in refining the technique.

I was going to edit the original post, but I can't, as I am THE Country Mon now, not just Country Mon. Changed my email addy and got locked out.

There has been one key change that I want to pass along to everyone who didn't want to sift through the 25+ pages of the original thread.

I have discovered that using a stronger concentration of STS does not make a plant more likely to produce pollen. It just burns/stresses the plant. What DOES make a plant much more likely to complete it's mission and make pollen is a second spraying at the end of week 2.

My conclusion is that STS in any concentration is only effective at inhibiting ethylene for about 3 weeks; at that point the plant's natural female metabolism begins to take back control, and even a plant that is covered with male blooms can't finish the journey to manhood and produce pollen. A second spraying allows inhibition to last through week 6, which is more than enough time to release pollen.

Some of you have decided to use stronger concentrations of STS. This is fine as long as it doesn't burn your plants. Obviously there is a wide range of usable formulas that will work. But the second spraying is the key to follow-through. You can store the working solution you used for round one (in the spray bottle) in your refrigerator for two weeks; no need to mix a new batch from stock.

I don't see the point of going any stronger than the formula I originally came up with. It has proven itself many times over. The only change I might make is to adjust it slightly to Gobgoober's "molar-correct" mix ratio. This is not at all necessary, but does allow the most effective use of the chemicals together.

Here's a re-post of the formula mix instructions, with the adjusted recipe below that:

Preparation of STS:

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss.

METHOD 3#

The adjusted formula is as follows:

Part A: .7 gram silver nitrate stirred into 40ml distilled water
Part B: 2.6 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 160 ml distilled water

Next, slowly add the silver nitrate solution to the sodium thiosulfate solution while stirring. This combination is then added to 800 ml of distilled water to equal 1 liter. This is your final stock solution. It is diluted 1:9 with more distilled water to make your final working solution, which then gets sprayed on your target plant.

Either formula will work great, so don't sweat it too much. But do that second spraying at the end of week 2... seems to be the key for getting pollen from the more difficult strains.





----------------------------------------

Here is a link to the .pdf file: http://www.ias.ac.in/jbiosci/dec2002/651.pdf --

He states that fertile male flowers can be induced in female cannabis plants using:
gibberellins (GAs) and anti-ethylene agents such as:
silver nitrate (AgNO3)
silver thiosulphate anionic complex (STS)
aminoethoxyvinyl glycene (AVG)
and cobalt chloride (CoCl2).

As this was an aside mentioned in the larger context of Dr. Ram's life work, he does not go into detail regarding the methods of application of these chemicals to achieve the sex reversal. I'm sure the papers Vic mentioned will give the specifics, here they are again (thanks Vic):

Mohan Ram H Y and Juiswal VS. 1972. Induction of male flowers on female plants of Cannabis sativa by gibberellins and its inhibition by abscisic acid. Plants, 105:263-266.

Mohan Ram H Y and Sett R. 1981. Modification of growth and sex expression in Cannabis sativa by aminoethoxyvinylglycine and ethephon. Z. Pflanzenphysiol., 105:165-172.

Mohan Ram H Y and Sett R. 1982. Induction of fertile male flowers in genetically female Cannabis sativa plants by silver nitrate and silver thiosulphate anionic complex. Theor. Appl. Genet., 62:369-375

 

[eza82]

THIS WAS INTRESTING (FOR OUT DOOR COMPOST FOR FLOWER)
Or emulsions as fertz/minreal feed.

Pumpkin leaves, raw Phosphorus: 1095mg
Watercress, raw Phosphorus: 1091mg
Mushrooms, portabella, raw [Portabello] Phosphorus: 1000mg
Mushrooms, brown, Italian, or Crimini, raw Phosphorus: 889mg
Squash, zucchini, baby, raw Phosphorus: 886mg
Mushrooms, portabella, grilled [Portobello] Phosphorus: 857mg
Mushrooms, white, stir-fried Phosphorus: 808mg
Mushrooms, white, raw Phosphorus: 782mg
Pumpkin leaves, cooked, boiled, drained, with salt Phosphorus: 752mg
Pumpkin leaves, cooked, boiled, drained, without salt Phosphorus: 752mg
Amaranth leaves, cooked, boiled, drained, with salt Phosphorus: 686mg
Amaranth leaves, cooked, boiled, drained, without salt Phosphorus: 686mg
Broccoli raab, raw [Broccoli rabe, Rapini] Phosphorus: 664mg
Balsam-pear (bitter gourd), leafy tips, raw Phosphorus: 660mg
Pumpkin flowers, raw Phosphorus: 653mg
Seaweed, irishmoss, raw Phosphorus: 641mg
Mushrooms, cooked, boiled, drained, with salt Phosphorus: 621mg
Mushrooms, cooked, boiled, drained, without salt Phosphorus: 621mg
Alfalfa seeds, sprouted, raw Phosphorus: 609mg
Fiddlehead ferns, raw Phosphorus: 594mg
Mushrooms, white, microwaved Phosphorus: 577mg
Dock, raw Phosphorus: 573mg
Cabbage, chinese (pak-choi), raw Phosphorus: 569mg

 

[eza82]

DIY RAW PUMKIN LEAF OR ALFALFA - OUTDOOR FLOWER ????EMULSION ( ONE OFF )
bECAUSE OF THE HIGH POTASSIUM - THIS WOULD HAVE TO BE REVIEWED. MAYBEY FINDING SOMETHING WITH LESS P.​

iNGREDIENTS based on 39grms​

Minerals​

Calcium
15.2 mg
2%

Iron
0.9mg
5%

Magnesium
14.8mg
4%

Phosphorus
40.6mg
4%

Potassium
170mg
5%

Sodium
4.3mg
0%

Zinc
0.1mg
1%

Copper
0.1mg
3%

Manganese
0.1mg
7%

Selenium
0.4mcg
1%

Fluoride
~
AS well as

Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Thiamin, Riboflavin, Niacin, Vitamin B6, Folate, Iron, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Copper and Manganese

or
Alfalfa seeds, sprouted, raw
Calcium
10.6
mg
1%
Iron
0.3
mg
2%

Magnesium
8.9
mg
2%

Phosphorus
23.1
mg
2%

Potassium
26.1
mg
1%

Sodium
2.0
mg
0%

Zinc
0.3
mg
2%

Copper
0.1
mg
3%

Manganese
0.1
mg
3%

Selenium
0.2
0%

Fluoride

 

[eza82]

Make organic tea....... from manure and your compost in 2-3 days
Get a clean container ( a bucket, a pail or large jug ), add a gallon of unchlorinated water, pour in what ever manure you intend to use. Bubble it with a cheap aquarium air pump / air stone for two days. Turn off pump, let settle for one hour & it's ready to pour into your feeding container.
.
Now, some people put their manure in a sock of some sort, like an old sock, panty hose or a old pillow case. That is OK, but I like the extra manure to water interaction you get from direct contact. More surface area exposed - more nutrients transferred.
.
or
.
Get two similar size containers ( a bucket, a pail or large jug ), add a gallon of unchlorinated water, pour in what ever manure you intend to use. Pour it from one container to the other a couple of times - twice daily for three days. Let settle for one hour, pour into your feeding container.

Bat Guano (Either - Higher N or P) 2 to 4 tablespoons per gallon of water.

Bunny Poop - one cup per gallon of water.

Cow Manure - three cups per gallon of water.

Chicken Manure - one cup per gallon of water.

Worm Castings - 4 tablespoons per gallon of water (people argue about this one the most0. They say more, more is better. I disagree - the NPK value of Worm Castings is only .1 % N (soluble) & .9 % (slow release) with a NPK value of only 1-0-0 Worm Castings will not be adding any real amounts of NPK. What they will add - trace minerals & benefical microogranisms (good bacteria & fungi) so, 4 tablespoons gets the job done.

---------------------------------------------------
Add each of these at the rate of one cup, per gallon of unchlorinated water - unless noted otherwise.

Source N P K

Rabbit manure 2.4-1.4-.6
Cow manure (dairy) .6-.2-.5 Both cow manures (3) cups per gallon.
Steer manure (beef) .7-.3-.4
Chicken manure 1.1-.8-.5
Horse manure .7-.3-.6
Duck manure .6-1.4-.5
Sheep manure .7-.3-.9
Worm castings 1.0-.0-.0 (4) tablespoons per gallon
.
See not hard, just basic math....
.
Ok & one more just for fun : Elephant Poop is 1-.9-.6 on average (plus it is almost odor free).
Hotlink about Zoo Doo...

http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpag...56C0A964958260

 

[spiked1]

did you actually soak the seeds in the soak, or wrap them in paper and try to gas them ?

EDIT :

Place cleaned, dry seeds in the centre of a WHITE tissue or paper towel. Fold the tissue in half and keep folding until the seed is covered by about 3 or 4 layers. Shake Seed Soak well. The normally clear liquid should appear cloudy. Apply Seed Soak to the tissue, continuing to apply until the tissue is saturated. It is important that the contents of Seed Soak do not become contaminated by fingers, tools, etc. Place saturated tissue into a clean, sealable plastic bag. Record the date and time the seed was placed into the bag. Leave in plastic bag for no less than 24 hours and no more than 30 hours. Remove seeds and germinate as normal. Do not allow seeds to dry out

if what you did didnt work, maybe doing what people talk about with the banana skins and gas is the go. From what i read Ethylene is a gas, so gassing the seeds seems to be a good idea. I think ill try to suspend the seeds above the soak for a day and see if that helps. you have reall scared me with your report of seed soak ruining the whole crop .

I followed the instructions to a tee (your blue words)
I also tried more and less hours and used up around 100 auto flowering seeds (I use auto's as you can see if they are male or female within 3 weeks)
Most seeds either wouldn't sprout, or had perfectly formed cotyldons but no tap root.

 

[spiked1]

Some success at last (or a huge fluke)
I planted 21 auto seeds which usually show sex at arond 2 1/2 to 3 weeks,
I sprayed them with La Femme at 2 weeks.
At 3 weeks I have 20 females and 1 male.
I always average 50% male to female.
So from this I will definately be trying La Femme again.
I have read before that plants decide their sex at 3 to 4 weeks,
and I have also planted some expensive White Queen seeds at $20 a seed,
they are 2 1/2 weeks old now so maybe I should try La Femme on them,
it would be interesting when I 12/12 them in 2 months time.

 

[eza82]

Some success at last (or a huge fluke)
I planted 21 auto seeds which usually show sex at arond 2 1/2 to 3 weeks,
I sprayed them with La Femme at 2 weeks.
At 3 weeks I have 20 females and 1 male.
I always average 50% male to female.
So from this I will definately be trying La Femme again.
I have read before that plants decide their sex at 3 to 4 weeks,
and I have also planted some expensive White Queen seeds at $20 a seed,
they are 2 1/2 weeks old now so maybe I should try La Femme on them,
it would be interesting when I 12/12 them in 2 months time.

nice, look forward to the final count...
... NAA I have found in PLANT START from multicorp....at $5 for 1 liter... also cotains IAA rooting.... So This would make for good comparison if you can...... I would say it be as good if not better.... due to rooting hormone.
the only active ingredients are NAA and IAA..... Essentially rooting hormone and lafemme in one!
I have been useing but....my thinking I had FEM seeds because I have had 100% female from new seedlings. Ive diluted to 1/2 strength, and been watering for for the first week and a half....
But I think we have a winner... NAA.......

 

[spiked1]

So with the rooting hormone, what would happen if you foliar spray?

 

[eza82]

Auxins are whats being produced.... which is in the tips of plants and moves to roots in a downward manner......never to return....lol.. in both NAA & IAA
So my assumption will be that the root mass will benifit also. (the obvious )

You say....In the first 3-4wks the plant is still decideing on sex (?) I think it also is still deciding on how big the root mass has to be..... doing its calculations on enviromental and atmospheric conditions. To see what potential it has.

......NAA is doing a similar thing only its a PGR. Also helps the plant reproduce protien and good fatty acids and more importantly sugars or energy which inturn....increase activity cyotkinins giving the ability to utilize & store the minreals/vitimins beening provided, to induce cell division/ growth.

So in short yes i think this would be the same in fem attributes, and help with future growth......

use it on a new group and see if the same numbers come out.?

 

[DaveTheNewbie]

Some success at last (or a huge fluke)
I planted 21 auto seeds which usually show sex at arond 2 1/2 to 3 weeks,
I sprayed them with La Femme at 2 weeks.
At 3 weeks I have 20 females and 1 male.
I always average 50% male to female.
So from this I will definately be trying La Femme again.
I have read before that plants decide their sex at 3 to 4 weeks,
and I have also planted some expensive White Queen seeds at $20 a seed,
they are 2 1/2 weeks old now so maybe I should try La Femme on them,
it would be interesting when I 12/12 them in 2 months time.

ok so you used lafemme at 2 weeks with success im interested.
being completely anal and exacting about this, you sprayed exactally how manys days after when ?

like exactally 14 days after seed was germinated, or about 17 odd days after seed sprouted

i want to know exactally when you foliar fed lafemme so i can replicate the experament and see the results on non autoflowering seeds.

ps awesome work

 

[Greenisgold]

Let me start by saying that this is not the greatest side by side as I tied my plants down not knowing I was going to do an experiment. Also, one of the clones was taken from the bottom of the plant, the other towards the top. As you can see one is bigger than the other. I’m going to spray the smaller of the two (right one), or the one clone that was taken from the bottom of the mom just to see if it will catch up. I’m also going to spray at week one of flower as I have never done this before. I always spray at the onset of flowers/buds which is usually around day 14-17. so let’s see what happens when there are just a few white hairs. I’m using a product that is called tomato bloom spray II.
The one on the left is from the top, the one on the right from the bottom. The left pic was taken right before I sprayed the plants. The second pic. was one week after, and low and behold the plant on the right has over taken the one on the left. I even had to let the tie up on the plant on the left as the one on the right was going to receive more light due to it being closer to the lamp. I can also see that buds started forming just a little bit faster with the one I sprayed, but not much. Now, I’m going to spray today as well which will be 2 weeks into flower. I also have not done this before, (spray twice).
Is this a perfect experiment, no? So take it or leave it.

 

[spiked1]

ok so you used lafemme at 2 weeks with success im interested.
being completely anal and exacting about this, you sprayed exactally how manys days after when ?

like exactally 14 days after seed was germinated, or about 17 odd days after seed sprouted

i want to know exactally when you foliar fed lafemme so i can replicate the experament and see the results on non autoflowering seeds.

ps awesome work

It may have been a fluke but usaually I get 50/50 male female.
Unfortunately I'm completely out of space and low on seeds until I
breed some more.
So having said that I would need to duplicate my experiment to
be sure it really did work.

 

[eza82]

It may have been a fluke but usaually I get 50/50 male female.
Unfortunately I'm completely out of space and low on seeds until I
breed some more.
So having said that I would need to duplicate my experiment to
be sure it really did work.

Probably do both With and with out again..... then we can be sure....

 

[DaveTheNewbie]

It may have been a fluke but usaually I get 50/50 male female.
Unfortunately I'm completely out of space and low on seeds until I
breed some more.
So having said that I would need to duplicate my experiment to
be sure it really did work.

sure sure i get that,
but i want in, i want to follow your work
so i need to know exactally when you did what if thats ok.

 

[spiked1]

sure sure i get that,
but i want in, i want to follow your work
so i need to know exactally when you did what if thats ok.

I don't mean to be cagey, but I haven't kept a journal due to spending so much time at work.
It was 2 weeks but maybe a day or 2 more,
I know my Lowryder2 crossed with Durban Poison start flowering in the 3rd week so I quickly made up some La Femme which had been sitting in my cupboard for a while and sprayed them, (sfter feeling inspired by eza82) I also used Penetrator at the recommended dose.
Sorry I can't give you any more info but that's all I did.

 

[eza82]

THC
the nxt experiment#

I started to think about THC again... a previous post had theory about dose watering leaving it on brink of water starvation....... which is not a bad theory in all just alittle off.....
IMO it will induce the hormone ABA in which the plant will stop growing ands protect it self ..... it will think its in drouhgt. But this is not nesseceraly a bad thing as my first thought was (less yield)... I dont think this method would work BUT was aong the right lines.....

So I continued to do my research in why MJ produce THC... I have come across many reasons of why & how`s the MJ plant produces THC: like to spread seed by sticking to fur, Black lights,scraping make it think its dieing,types of fertz & poop,rusty nail through stalk and man more carck theories...
this just made me laugh with some of the shit stated....

So this is the theory : it comes down to Environmental Influence again........ The best way to take a look at how environment affects THC production is to look where on the planet cannabis has naturally adopted a high THC profile. As cannabis has spread around the world it has taken on many different traits to help in its adaptation to varied areas such as Afgani, south america,etc.
ULTRAVIOLET
The best drug varieties have always been found at equatorial or high altitude locations. The one thing which both of these variables have in common is high light intensity and a large amount of ultraviolet (UV) light in the spectrum.
Recent Swiss trials in outdoor plots of clones grown at different altitudes have shown that there is correlation between higher altitude and increased potency (although there seems to be a trade off in yield).

This likely means that THC-rich resins act to protect the plant and its seed from both higher light intensities and ultraviolet presence. It's no surprise that cannabis has developed a chemical to protect itself against the Sun's damaging UV rays, as they can be injurious to all forms of life.

Therefore a high-THC plant grown in a low THC environment will likely produce a medium THC result.

Humidity also plays a role in plant resin production. Although some potent equatorial strains do seem to occur in high humidity areas, most high in thc -tested strains have evolved in drier areas, like Afghanistan. The aridity of the areas of Afghanistan where Indica strains have evolved is quite apparent by the trait of large dense flower clusters.

There are many examples of non-cannabis plants producing resins in order to protect themselves from drying out. The waxy coating on cacti and other succulent plants is a prime example.

marijuana flowered in humid conditions will often have a longer stalk on the glandular trichome than the same strain grown in drier conditions. While this may give the appearance of being very crystallized, it will likely contain less THC than the same plant grown in a drier environment. Another problem with longer trichome stalks is that the gland heads are more likely to break off during handling.

Experiment:
IM Buying a aquirium light tomorrow! & humidity to around -60%
This will be easy to compare THC for I have smoked the same bud for yrs!
I will run the light for around 5hrs of the light cycle for the last 3 weeks of flower.
note: UV can kill your plants by burning them...

Catalina 5000k - UVA/UVB 55w
$ 30.00

OR
55W UVB 8.0
[55WUVB]$15.00

Reptile Light. High desert 8.0 UVB. Good for desert animals. Tortoises, iguanas, desert lizards, snakes, etc. Not good for fish or corals.

Power: 55 W

Color: 8.0 UVB Desert Sun

Length: 22"

Pins: 4 straight pins


I will ramp this up slowly - probably up to a 4 globe setting with 6-8hr period at a good distance ... or untill the plants tell me ENOUGH!





------------------------------------------------------------

THIS IS WORTH WATCHING!!!!!!!!!!
Here is the best Youtube vid on the subject and a really good watch, about 15mins, Old school dude but proffesor like stoner... if I have not convinced you he will....

THC, UVB and Me

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPcpt3Be28o

 

[eza82]

This is todays UV index----- Out doors in the top end of australia sounds good !

But what I want to replicate environmentally is : Vietnam
UV Index: 6-11 (Extreme)

Relative Humidity: 56 - 100%%

forecast:
UV index:sat7 sun8 mon 8 tue8 wen8 thu8 fri8 sat7
Temp max(°C)29 33 35 33 33 33 32 30 Temp min (°C)21 21 23 22 22 22 22 22.

Some more examples of HIGH THC producing areas and ther UV index​

Country (City) . J F M A M J J A S O N D​

Brazil (Rio de Janeiro) 23°S 12 11 9 7 5 5 5 7 9 10 12 12​

Kenya (Nairobi) 1°S 12 13 13 12 11 10 11 11 12 12 12 11​

Vietnam (Hanoi) 21°N 6 8 10 11 11 11 12 12 10 8 6 6​

Cuba (Havana) 23°N 6 8 9 10 10 11 12 11 10 8 6 5​

Panama (Panama) 9°N 9 11 12 12 11 11 12 12 12 11 9 9​

& for comparison
Australia (Sydney) 34°S 9 9 7 5 3 2 3 4 6 7 9 10
Australia (Darwin) 13°S 12 13 12 10 8 8 8 10 11 13 12 12​

USA (Los Angeles) 34°N 3 4 6 8 9 10 10 9 7 5 3 2
USA (New York) 41°N 2 3 4 6 7 8 9 8 6 3 2 1​