Hormones vs Co2 - Hormones Cheaper Potentially Yeild the Same!

eza82

Well-Known Member
alright got my ga3 but which application should i use ?

The stunted plant is about 2 foot with barely any nodes and very small leaves
the biggest question is when are you going to use it ????

And to be HONESt you probably should have HEALTHY plants to experiment with..... if its small and in veg then it needs MINERALS not HORMONES follow your NPK.... you are probably short on phos or mag.... LAck of nitorgen is the most likely from the stunting... unless your fuckin with it too much.. repotting, cutting leaves off etc.....try flushing first... and water only for a couple of weeks then bring up you N (nitrogen) and have low K (pottassium) Phos is not real important at VEG stage and all will have Micro adds. And more JUST water.
So I would say hold off on your hormone venture till healthy.
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
When each hormone is produced......
Auxin would be released when a root or shoot meristematic (young) cell finds that it contains more than enough shoot derived nutrients mainly sugar, and all other environmental conditions are favorable for growth.
Cytokinin would be made when meristematic cells are bathed in more than enough nutrients of the sort normally provided by the root, mainly water and minerals and all other conditions are favorable for growth.
Gibberellin/Brassinostreroid would be made when mature cells have less than enough shoot nutrients, i.e. sugar and Oxygen to survive especially if environmental conditions are poor.
Finally Ethylene might be released when mature cells are receiving less than enough nutrients normally received from the roots, mainly minerals and water, to support life at all, thus senescence of the cell is warranted. Again this effect may be accentuated by poor environmental conditions.

Abscisic Acid might fulfill the role akin to adrenaline or cortisol in animals, signaling a need emergency action under most kinds of rapidly developing environmental stress, not just water shortages.
Complimentarily, Salicylic Acid may be the hormone released when things are running normally and no special rapid response is needed from the plant. It might be the "feel good" hormone.

Quick summary on what they are:
Auxin is the active ingredient in most rooting compounds in which cuttings are dipped during vegetative propagation.
Gibberellins stimulate cell division and elongation, break seed dormancy, and speed germination. The seeds of some species are difficult to germinate; you can soak them in a GA solution to get them started.
cytokinins stimulate cell division and often are included in the sterile media used for growing plants from tissue culture. If a medium's mix of growth-regulating compounds is high in cytokinins and low in auxin, the tissue culture explant (small plant part) will produce numerous shoots. On the other hand, if the mix has a high ratio of auxin to cytokinin, the explant will produce more roots. Cytokinins also are used to delay aging and death (senescence).
Ethylene is unique in that it is found only in the gaseous form. It induces ripening, causes leaves to droop (epinasty) and drop (abscission), and promotes senescence. Plants often increase ethylene production in response to stress, and ethylene often is found in high concentrations within cells at the end of a plant's life. The increased ethylene in leaf tissue in the fall is part of the reason leaves fall off trees. Ethylene also is used to ripen fruit (e.g., green bananas).
Abscisic acid (ABA) is a general plant-growth inhibitor. It induces dormancy and prevents seeds from germinating; causes abscission of leaves, fruits, and flowers; and causes stomata to close. High concentrations of ABA in guard cells during periods of drought stress probably play a role in stomatal closure.
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
PGR`s - PLANT GROWTH REGULATORS (man made)/ HORMONES (natural)

THIS IS WHAT WHERE WHEN........

Plant growth regulators (PGRs) are chemicals that are designed to affect plant growth and/or development. They are applied for specific purposes to affect specific plant responses right?
Although there is F@#k load of scientific information on using PGRs in the greenhouse, it is not an exact science. Achieving the best results with PGRs is a combination of art and science - science tempered with a lot of trial and error and a good understanding of plant growth and development.

Selecting and Using Plant Growth Regulators on Floricultural Crops
Authors: Original is by Joyce G. Latimer, Extension Specialist, Greenhouse Crops; Virginia Tech Publication Number 430-102, November 2001, i have summarized most of it.
index:
Optimizing Results
Read the Label
Plant Growth Regulators for Height Control
Plant Growth Regulators for Lateral Branching
Plant Growth Regulators for Flowering Application Guidelines
Treat All Recommendations as Starting Rates for Your Own Trials
Recordkeeping
Costs of PGRs
Conclusions and Rate Recommendations
Recommended Resource
Appendix. Helpful conversions


Optimizing Results

1. For best results, PGRs should be handled as production tools, like water and fertilizer.
2. They should not be used as crutches for poor management of other cultural practices.
3. PGRs should be an integrated part of your crop production cycle.
4. They are most effective when applied at the appropriate times to regulate plant growth or development. In other words, growth retardants cannot "shrink" an overgrown plant. They must be applied before the plant is overgrown to avoid plant stretch.

THINGS YOU CAN ACHIEVE:

1. Do you want to reduce the growth rate of the plant, improve its color and general condition (toughness)? If so, you probably want a growth retardant such as B-Nine, Cycocel, A-Rest, Bonzi, or Sumagic.
2. Do you want to increase plant branching for enhanced cutting production, or for a more bushy potted plant or hanging basket? If so, you probably want to use a branching agent or "chemical pincher" such as Atrimmec, FlorelÆ Brand Pistill (Florel), or Off-Shoot-O.
3. Do you want to enhance flower initiation or synchronize flowering? If so, you probably want to use Cycocel, Florel, NAA, GibGro, or ProGibb.

Answering these questions will indicate which type of PGR you need to use to accomplish your goal. It also will determine the most appropriate timing of the application. Then you will need to select a specific PGR in that class and determine the appropriate dosage and the appropriate application method for the selected application. THESE are many Indsutry brands which I intend on useing at some point. As well as the pure forms mentioned in thread.

Read the Label

Plant growth regulators are classified as pesticides so use with care...

  • Is the chemical labeled for the crop you wish to treat? Most of the PGR labels have undergone recent revisions that apply to a broad range of similar crops not specifically listed on the label, with the user taking responsibility for determining appropriate rates. This provides label permission to use the compound on these crops without the manufacturer accepting the responsibility for the rate selection.
  • Look for information on the effectiveness and on the side effects (phytotoxicity) of the chemical on your specific crop. B-Nine is considered to be a safe, short-term growth retardant with few phytotoxicity problems. However, it has little effect on growth of petunias and may burn treated leaves of kalanchoe. Begonias are extremely sensitive to Bonzi and Sumagic, and the label warns you to avoid overspray or drift on these crops.
  • Notice any label warnings regarding the PGR's effect on plant flowering. Many branching enhancers delay flowering. Florel causes flower bud abscission prior to enhancing branching; therefore, it is not recommended within six to eight weeks of Croping.
Plant Growth Regulators for Height Control or SOG
Most of the PGRs used in the greenhouse are used to regulate shoot growth of bedding plants, garden mums, and other containerized crops. These PGRs are referred to as "growth retardants." Typical growth retardants are B-Nine, Cycocel, A-Rest, Bonzi, and Sumagic . These PGRs reduce plant height by inhibiting the production of gibberellins, the primary plant hormones responsible for cell elongation. Therefore, their effects are primarily on stem, petiole and flower stalk tissues. Lesser effects are seen in reductions of leaf expansion, resulting in thicker leaves with darker green color.

Other benefits of using these PGRs in plant production include improved plant appearance by maintaining plant size and shape in proportion with the pot. Plant growth retardants also increase the stress tolerance.
Remember, growth retardants do not reduce plant size. They reduce the plant's growth rate. You must apply the growth retardant prior to the "stretch." Look for recommendations on the PGR label for time of application. These recommendations will be given in terms of plant development or plant size as opposed to production time. For example, the Sumagic label specifies that pansies should have attained a minimum height of four inches prior to application. The Bonzi label says that bedding plant plugs should be treated at the one to two true leaf stage and bedding plants (after transplanting) at two inches of new growth or when the plants reach marketable size.
Generally, growth retarding PGRs should be applied just prior to rapid shoot growth. This is usually one to two weeks after transplanting a plug, after the roots are established and as the plant resumes active growth; on pinched plants, it is after the new shoots are visible, just starting to elongate. This is where the art of plant growth regulation is most important. You must learn how your crop grows and when to intervene to obtain the desired results. Remember to note details of crop development in your records of PGR treatments. For example, due to the weather conditions, next year you may need to treat at seven days after transplanting instead of at the ten days after transplanting that you used this year. Gauge when rapid elongation will likely occur and treat to counter it.
Many growers use multiple applications of growth retardants to better control plant growth. A single application at a high rate early in the plant production cycle may be excessive if growing conditions are not as good as expected. An early application at a lower rate provides more flexibility, but the tradeoff is in the additional labor involved with a second application if it becomes necessary. Some growers improve crop uniformity by using multiple applications of lower rates to affect small corrections in plant growth.

Be careful to avoid very late applications, especially of Bonzi or Sumagic as they may delay flowering .
Plant Growth Regulators for Lateral Branching

Another group of PGRs used in floricultural crops are those that enhance branching, including Florel, Atrimmec and Off-Shoot-O . These PGRs are frequently called "chemical pinchers" because they generally inhibit the growth of the terminal shoots or enhance the growth of lateral buds, thereby increasing the development of lateral branches. They can be used to replace mechanical pinching of many crops. Often this increased branching also will reduce the overall height of the plant. The ethylene released inside the plant by Florel also inhibits internode elongation, keeping treated plants more compact than untreated plants. Florel also affects flowering (see below). If you are looking for enhanced branching, you must have sufficient growth on the plant to allow for sites of lateral development. They cannot enhance lateral branching if there are no laterals on the plant. Again, read the label for details of when to apply for optimum response.

You may need to consider combinations of PGRs. For example, if you apply Florel to enhance the branch development of 'Wave' petunias in a hanging basket, you will probably need to follow up with a treatment of a plant growth retardant like Bonzi to control the elongation of those new laterals. Always consider the side effects of treatments. As mentioned in Tables 1 and 2, some of these PGRs affect flowering which is critical to the successful production of floricultural crops.
Plant Growth Regulators for Flowering

Plant growth regulators can be used to enhance flowering (GibGro) or to remove flowers (Florel). To improve flowering, GibGro, which contains the growth promoter gibberellic acid, can be used to substitute for all or part of the chilling requirement of some woody ornamentals typically forced in the greenhouse, including azalea. [A broad use label was submitted for EPA approval in 2001 for Pro-Gibb (Valent USA) which would include camellia, hydrangea, and a variety of other floricultural crops.] Special attention must be given to the stage of flower bud development for successful treatment. In addition to overcoming dormancy, these compounds can improve flowering and/or bloom size of camellia, geranium, cyclamen, spathiphyllum, statice, and calla lily (see product labels for specific uses). Again, timing is critical since late applications, or excessive rates, may cause excessive plant stretching resulting in weak, spindly stems. Cycocel used to control stem height of hibiscus and geranium also improves early flowering.

Flower removal is especially desirable for stock plants maintained for cuttings of vegetatively propagated ornamentals, like geraniums, fuchsia, begonias, or lantana. Florel (ethephon) is the primary compound used for flower removal. Once ethephon is absorbed by the plant it is converted to gaseous ethylene, a natural plant hormone effective in many plant processes. Ethylene is the primary hormone responsible for flower senescence and fruit ripening. It is the "postharvest" hormone. With proper rates and timing, it will remove unwanted flowers from stock plants or from plugs or young bedding plants.
Flower removal diverts more energy into vegetative growth, increasing the number of laterals available for cuttings on stock plants, and promoting increased branching of plugs and finished plants, which increases fullness in hanging baskets or other containers. Early flower removal also allows synchronization of flowering of a container for a more dramatic appearance or for flowering on a specific marketing date. Since initiation and development of flowers requires time, Florel should not be used on crops within six to eight weeks of marketing.
Application Guidelines

Spray Applications. The pesticide label not only contains information on restrictions but also much information on using the product effectively. The label will identify the target tissue for that PGR - B-Nine is only effective as a foliar spray whereas Bonzi and Sumagic sprays must reach the stems or roots. When making spray applications, look at the physiological development of the plant to see that there is sufficient plant material at the correct stage of growth to make the treatment effective and to accomplish your goal. Generally, there should be sufficient foliage or stems to absorb the PGR. Uptake and effectiveness of a PGR also depend on selecting the application technique that will ensure proper coverage of the target tissue. B-Nine is not soil active and is fairly mobile in the plant. Therefore, a foliar spray application, wetting most of the foliage, will provide a fairly uniform reduction in growth of sensitive crops.
However, the triazoles, Bonzi and Sumagic, are absorbed primarily by stem tissue and then translocated upwards in the plant. Therefore, consistent and complete coverage of the stems is necessary for uniform effects. In other words, if the stem of one lateral receives an inadequate amount of spray, it will grow faster than the others, resulting in a poorly shaped plant, most noticeable in potted crops like poinsettia or chrysanthemum. The triazoles also are very "soil active" which means they may be adsorbed to particles in the media and become available to the plant through root uptake. Therefore, drenching is a very effective application method for these chemicals in crops where it is economically feasible (see How to Apply Drenches below).
The label will provide a recommended application volume for sprays or drenches, especially for chemicals that are soil active. All foliar applications of PGRs should be applied on an area basis, i.e., uniformly spray the area where the plants are located with the recommended volume of solution. Do NOT spray individual plants or spray to reach a subjective target like "spray to glistening." Since every applicator will have a slightly different definition of these goals, there will be no way of recommending appropriate rates or obtaining predictable results. For soil active PGRs, dosage equals the concentration of the solution multiplied by the volume applied in the treated area. Therefore, to improve predictability, the label-recommended spray application rates are generally set at 2 qt. finished spray per 100 sq.ft., a comfortable walking pace for applicators with hand-held sprayers.
Since Bonzi and Sumagic are soil active, precautions should be taken to avoid over-application with sprays. Spray applications require more attention to detail, because overspray material lands or drips onto the medium. Remember that dosage equals concentration times volume. Figure 1 shows the effect of Sumagic application volume on growth of vinca (Catharanthus roseus) at four weeks after treatment. A 1 ppm spray solution of Sumagic was applied at the label recommended volume of 2 qt. per 100 sq. ft., at 3 qt. per 100 sq. ft., or at twice the label rate, 4 qt. per 100 sq. ft. This high volume application was comparable to the amount of spray you might apply "to runoff." These vinca plants were effectively treated with 0, 1, 1.5, or 2 ppm Sumagic (dose = concentration x volume).
Recognizing that stem coverage is necessary for the triazoles, you may need to apply a higher than recommended volume to large or dense plants to obtain adequate coverage. In fact, the Bonzi label recommends 3 qt per 100 sq.ft. for "larger plants with a well developed canopy." Adjust the concentration you apply accordingly. This suggests the importance of record-keeping (see below).
Spray Equipment. To assure proper spray volumes, your compressed air sprayer should be equipped with a pressure gauge and regulator and you should consistently use the same nozzle for all PGR applications. Your sprayer should be calibrated by determining the output of the chemical with the selected nozzle at the selected pressure within a specified time period. Using this information, you can apply a known amount of material to a known area. Spray droplet size also affects response with smaller droplet sizes providing better coverage, but only up to a point. Mist or fog type applicators do NOT provide adequate volume for coverage of plant stems and have not been effective when used with compounds like Bonzi and Sumagic.
The way I tested was to capture your spray for a certin period.
Applying Drenches. Drenches have several advantages over sprays. Drenches generally have less effect on flower or bract size and tend to provide longer lasting growth regulation than sprays. Drenches are easier to apply uniformly than sprays because the drench volume is easily measured, and when applied to moist media, it is easy to obtain good distribution of the PGR in the media. Therefore, the resulting growth regulation is frequently more uniform. The label specifies the recommended volumes for drench applications to different size pots or types of media. Read the label. In general, 4 fl. oz. of drench solution is applied to a six-inch "azalea" pot, and that volume is adjusted up or down with pot size to obtain a volume where about 10% of the solution runs out the bottom of the pot when the media is moist.
Remember that the amount of active ingredient applied to plants using soil-active PGRs is a product of the concentration (ppm) of the solution and the volume applied. Label recommendations for drench applications give solution rates (in ppm) and volume recommendations. In some cases, drench application recommendations are given in terms of milligrams of active ingredient (mg a.i.) per pot. For Bonzi, the label provides mixing directions for mg a.i. solutions for Bonzi, or, you can use the NC State University "PGR Calculator" (See Resources below) to obtain solution directions for drench recommendations using this format.
Other methods of applying PGRs directly to the media have been developed and labeled. For example, Bonzi and A-Rest are labeled for chemigation or application through the irrigation system. These are generally limited to flood (sub-irrigation) or drip irrigation, not overhead sprinkler systems. Again, rates vary with the volumes used and method of application. Bonzi applied once by sub-irrigation requires 50% to 75% of the amount of Bonzi that is applied in a typical drench application. Read and exactly follow the label for chemigation applications.
Other Types of PGR Applications. Three other methods of providing a drench type application of soil-active PGRs on a more economical scale are being used by growers. One is media surface application sprays. These are spray applications made to the surface of the media of filled flats or pots. The treatment is applied at normal to high spray volumes, but since it is applied to the media surface it is activated by irrigation and is available to the plant in the root zone. Both Bonzi and Sumagic are labeled for this method of application. Rates are lower than used for sprays, but higher than used for drench applications.
A second method is called "sprenches" which is a high volume foliar spray that results in runoff into the media, providing a drench effect. Rates are lower than those recommended for sprays.
A third technique is called "watering in" where the PGR, A-Rest and Bonzi are currently labeled, is injected into the irrigation water and applied in each irrigation at very low rates of active ingredient.
All of these application methods use the relationship between rate and volume to provide the desired control and preferred application methods. Again, you must develop techniques that fit your production methods and your growth management preferences.
Beware of Bark. For all media applications, be aware that soil-active PGRs tend to be tied up by bark particles in the media which makes it less available to the plants. Therefore, if your media mix is high in bark you will need to compensate for this unavailability by adjusting your application rates up for any type of drench or media applications.
Growing Conditions. Look also for label recommendations on time of day or condition of the plant for optimum treatment response. Generally, a healthy, unstressed plant growing under low evaporative conditions, e.g., early in the morning or late in the afternoon, is most responsive to treatment. To maximize uptake, the chemical must remain in contact with the leaf long enough to be absorbed. This time varies for the different PGRs. Plants treated with B-Nine or Florel should not be overhead irrigated for at least 12 hours after treatment, but plants treated with Bonzi or Sumagic may be irrigated one hour after treatment. Spraying when the treatment will not dry quickly increases absorption of the active ingredients and increases the effectiveness of the treatment. Read the label for any warnings on how irrigation or environmental conditions will affect plant response to the PGR treatment.
Treat All Recommendations as Starting Rates for Your Own Trials

The multitude of variations possible in application methods, cultivar and species grown, and growing conditions make it impossible to recommend specific rates for all operations. There are a couple of general rules for using rate recommendations from other sources:

  1. Southern growers use higher rates and more frequent applications than Northern growers. Rates for Virginia tend be closer to the Southern rates.
  2. Outdoor applications usually require higher rates or more frequent applications than for plants grown inside the greenhouse.
Recordkeeping

Making notes on your application methods and the results of your PGR treatments will allow you to improve the consistency of your own application methods and establish rates and volumes appropriate to your production system. Note the concentration and the volume applied, the stage of development of the crop (number of leaves, approximate height, presence of flowers), and the environmental conditions under which the PGR was applied. It is always helpful to keep a few untreated plants for comparison, especially if you are new to using PGRs.

Costs of PGRs

Also consider the cost of the various plant growth regulators in developing your production program. You will need to add your labor and equipment costs to calculate the PGR application costs in your operation. You also will want to consider the costs of multiple applications vs. single applications when determining which PGR to use in a given situation.

Conclusions and Rate Recommendations

Plant growth regulators are valuable production tools that can enhance product quality and marketability while reducing labor for pinching and/or pruning and plant maintenance. They must be used with proper attention to other cultural practices, especially proper fertility and irrigation management. Plant growth regulators cannot correct poor production practices.

Plant growth regulator recommendations for a wide variety of floricultural crops are listed. These rates are label recommended rates and should be evaluated under your own growing conditions. For more information on rates for herbaceous perennials see VCE Publication 430-103, Using Plant Growth Regulators on Containerized Herbaceous Perennials.
Recommended Resource

For a ready resource on preparing PGR solutions, download the North Carolina State University Plant Growth Regulator Calculator from:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/floriculture/software/pgr.html
software allows growers to calculate the amounts of A-Rest, Atrimmec, B-Nine, Bonzi, Cycocel, Dazide, Downsize, Facination, Florel, Fresco, GibGro, Paczol, Piccolo, ProGibb, Sumagic, or Topflor needed to create any spray or drench solution you desire. If you enter your costs for each PGR, it will also calculate your materials cost per application as well as per plant treated. By entering plant dimensions and application rate per unit area, it will calculate the amount of active ingredient each plant received during application
Appendix. Helpful conversions.

Volume
1 gallon (gal) = 128 fluid ounces (fl oz)
1 fl oz = 30 milliliters (ml)
1 gal = 3785 ml = 3.785 liters
1 cup = 48 teaspoons
1 tablespoon = 3 teaspoons
1 fl oz = 2 tablespoons = 6 teaspoons


Weight
1 ounce (oz) = 28.3 grams (g)
1 pound (lb) = 16 oz = 454 g

Concentration
1% = 10,000 ppm
1 ppm = 1 milligram (mg) per liter
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
Here is a couple of PGR products ive been looking at.....

Dazide has numerous uses, the most important being to regulate plant size by reducing the length of internodes. A more compact plant has greater stem strength resulting in less breakage during shipping and handling. Dazide also reduces apical dominance, encouraging the development of early terminal buds that branch profusely. Treated plants have a compact growth habit and enhanced flower bud formation.
Dazide treated plants also tend to have deeper green foliage and a more developed root system. The latter provides firmer anchorage and better nutrient and moisture extracting capability. Consequently, plants are less likely to wilt and can recover more quickly from the stress of transplanting. Dazide is effective in a wide variety of ornamentals, including chrysanthemums, gardenias, azaleas, hydrangeas and poinsettias, along with petunias, marigolds and other flowering and foliage plant species. While the specific effects of Dazide vary with the situation, the results generated are very predictable and consistent, producing plants that look and sell at their best all year round.
http://www.fine-agrochemicals.com/DocFrame/DocView.asp?id=308&sec=-1



Falgo contains gibberellic acid (GA3). Gibberellins are compounds that are naturally produced within plants to stimulate growth. Fine has developed a unique fermentation method of naturally producing GA3 and markets the compound for use in ornamental plants as falgro. Falgro has a huge variety of useful applications including elongation of peduncles in Pompom Chrysanthemums, earlier flowering and increased yield in Statice and accelerated plant growth with increased number of flowering stems in Gypsophila. Offering flexibility of use, falgro is formulated as easy to use liquid, powder and tablet formulations.
http://www.fine-agrochemicals.com/Content/ProdH.asp?id=21


Pirouette regulates height and diameter in ornamental plants by reducing internode elongation due to inhibition of gibberellin biosynthesis. Pirouette enhances the quality of bedding plants, flowering and foliage plants, bulb crops, perennials and woody ornamentals making them easier to market and more profitable to produce. Pirouette helps to produce attractive plants that are easier to handle and transport by producing more compact and sturdier plants.
Pirouette helps growers manage the marketing of plants by allowing control of growth rates to meet increasingly stringent customer led specifications.
http://www.fine-agrochemicals.com/Content/ProdH.asp?id=86
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
Hydroponic additives. 11 ways to help you plants

Additives, Hormones and Plant Growth Regulators at your local hydro store..


Here is a basic guide to producing better plants and understanding additives in order of priority.

1. Nutrients

You must use nutrients for Hydroponics.


2. Vitamins

Vitamins are our Number 2 most effective way to help a plant do well.

Vitamins for plants help a plant feel better when stressed, and keep a plant healthy.

Vitamins will help with resistance to fungal rots and insect attacks for instance.

While plants manufacture vitamins for themselves, if they have a supply of them, they can turn their energy to producing other elements they need, and thereby speed up growth.

Nutriboost is a concentrate that you add to nutrients, or spray onto the plants. 1ml per 10 litres whilst growing and for high performance, increase to 10ml per 10 litres for flowering/fruiting. 50ml $10, 100ml $15, 200ml $20 500ml $40 1litre $70 and 5litre $315.

Another vitamin additive is Superthrive, but is recommended for soil as it contains a glue to make it stick to soil, and in Hydroponics it just sticks to media and makes everything go green with super vitaminised algae!

3. Cleansing

Cleaning the water that comes through the tap and the water which is recycled from any pathogen helps keep the plants strength in growing not fighting.

Have you ever been fighting a cold, not really got sick, but just been a little slowed down. If you keep your system and root zone really clean you will see an improvement in the plants vigour.

Hydroshield cleans the water with two highly effective cleansers, Hydrogen peroxide, bonded with silver. The silver builds immunity while activates the Hydrogen peroxide to react and keep reacting with any single celled organism, such as green algae, fungal root rots, viruses, bacteria, and also removes chlorine from the water. Dose at 2ml per litre to prevent problems, or dose every 1-3 days to kill any fungal outbreak until plants are healthy again.

Hydroshield comes in 250ml $10 1litre $20 5litre $80 25litre $350

As an alternative to cleaning by sterilising, you can use a high dose of beneficial bacteria to keep nasties away. Power active and Stop wilt from Nulife are great for those not using sterlising agents like Hydroshield or Pythoff. They act like a plant tonic helping the plant by creating a biological barrier for plants root system.

4. Silica

Silica is not silicon, it is an element that cannot be put into the nutrient formula, due to instability, but it should be part of any plants nutrition.

Consider silica like a missing link between plant vitality, strength, resistance to infection, and increased harvests.

The silica helps strengthen cells, and plants are much healthier from the continual addition of silica.

Ensure you have a highly soluble form and you will begin to see effect from around 2 weeks onwards. Budlink, Silica magic or Dutch Master silica are very good forms of silica.

5. Foliar spraying

Have you looked at the way fertilisers are added in commercial operations. Usually by injection of liquid fertilisers into the overhead sprinklers.

This is partly because it is quick and easy, however, you can find research that the same liquid added to the leaves (which them runs off into the soil), instead of just the soil is around 25% more in harvest yields.

Also things such as amino acids are more difficult to absorb through the roots than through the leaves.

We have made up Amino Sprays containing high quality mineral nutrients, vitamins, organic additives such as amino acids, as well a wetting agent to assist uptake and spreading.

Ready to use, just pour into a spray bottle and spray, preferably towards the end of the day, or when artificial lighting sources are about to switch off for the night.

Amino Acid Sprays come in Grow, Flowering and Harvest formulas to ensure nutrition is improved for the particular stage of the plants life.

A 1litre is $8, and 5litres is $24.

Its an inexpensive way to increase crops without increasing your system size.

Remember that spraying should be done around twice a week in cooler months, and once per week during humid hotter months. Discontinue if any chance of mould or fungus on leaves (e.g. poorly ventilated greenhouses/ grow rooms)

6. Cell dividers

Some additves help the plants grow quicker by making their cells divide quicker.

Organic additives such as monsta bud, psychobud and megabud cause plants to grow faster in this way

Monstabud and Psychobud are the same except Psychobud is more concentrated.

Both are available in an additive to nutrient in separate formulas for grow, flower and harvest/final stages.

Megabud is used only in the fist and third week of flowering and is very high performance.

Bio Earth Sea Acids are a unique product that can be used alongside the other products for very fast plant meatabolism, meaning faster growth and flowering

7. Weight Adders

Potassium is stored in the flower/fruit during the flowering process.

To add weight, products like weight plus use potassium to add weight

Weight plus 1ltr is $20 and is added at 1ml per litre

Other potassium products are Potash plus and Canna PK1314 but are not as pH stable as weight plus which is fully balanced and should not affect your pH

8. Harvest activator

Superbud is a hobby derivitive similar to products used in stonefruit commercial farming.

It causes extremely rapid fruiting and flowering and makes fruit very firm immediately.

It stops ALL Growth, and plants will NOT grow more than 1 inch once added.

Do not add until the final height and size required.

Recirculating use 3ml of each part per litre, if hand watering or run to waste use 5ml per litre of each

Use for 7-9 days no more and no less.

It is $165 for a litre.

9. Height Controllers

Bonza bud creates the same effect as ‘tipping' a plant without removing the top growth, which would eventually produce much more branches and flower/fruit points

It blocks the hormone that causes a plant to grow taller, and instead of growing , say 5cm and producing a branch it will produce less, maybe 2-3 cm thus making a plant shorter

A shorter plant has more even light from top to bottom and thus increases yield on lower branches

Bonza Bud encourages more side growth and these branches will produce extra fruiting/flowering points per plant also increasing yeilds

50ml $25 use at 2ml/litre for extremely stetched out plants, or 1ml/litre for normal plants to be sortened slightly

Respray to improve effect as desired or every 4 weeks.

Spray over plants until liquid runs off.

10. Rootzone accelerant

A large root zone creates a healthier plant and helps uptake

Rootzone accelerant helps roots, especially for new plants/clones to get them established

11. Feminising products

Female products come in two varieties

Male supressants such as la femme and feminiser, used to reduce the chances of a male as a seedling is raised

Hermaphrodite treatments such as Budwise, which make male flowers shrivel up and drop off.

Notes for Sick Plants :
Use additives carefully when plants are sick.
If any root rot, spray vitamins onto plant. Vitamins around roots will strengthen the fungus that is attacking your plant.
If mould or fungal attacks on leaves discontinue sprays

FROM

http://www.marijuanagrowing.eu
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
I think Im finally getting somewhere..... I will look to creat a full FEED chart for NUTES, VITS, PGR`s...over a 13week cycle with 8-9 week flower. (SOG)

I have pictures to post on the progress...ended with clones and turned mothers into producers, and will pull out mothers from this batch.
And the Mr X who gave me original 2 clones- he assumed they were twice the age, than they actually were when he saw flower......always a good sign (in short bigger better fatter )..... And my Big lady (outdoors) is now 7ft and flowering and I did end up F@#kin with them alot, with good results (huge buds) .. I will get around to putting up the data journel & pics soon.

I like hormones & PGR`s and look forward to playing more..........
 

Jester88

Well-Known Member
well done threads looking good..

i like the way your getting more basick about it the more ya learn. meaning your starting to explain things a bit better :).... meaning people who dont know squat about them may be able to have a good start....

cant wait for the journal and what not too....

keep up the good work
jester88
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
This is the last two additives im going to play with............ These are hard to group into either micronute/vitimans/minerals or hormones they both have similar values in each catergory.


1. Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) is a water molecule with an extra atom of Oxygen attached (2H2O + O2 = 2H2O2).

H2O2 is a clear sharp smelling substance very similar in appearance to water (H2O). Like water it is made up of Hydrogen and Oxygen, however H2O2 has an extra Oxygen atom in an unstable arrangement. It is this extra atom that gives H2O2 its useful properties. H2O2 has been used for many purposes including cleaning, bleaching, sterilizing, rocket fuel, animal feed treatment and in addition many miraculous claims about its health benefits have been made. This article isn't about any of these; instead it will concentrate on horticultural applications. H2O2 is of great use for both hydroponics and dirt/soilless gardening.
1. What Does Hydrogen Peroxide do?
H2O2 is an unstable molecule, when it breaks down a single oxygen atom and a molecule of water is released. This oxygen atom is extremely reactive and will attach itself to either another O- atom forming a stable Oxygen molecule or attack a nearby organic molecule. Both the stable and O- forms will increase the level of dissolved oxygen. This is the method by which H2O2 is beneficial. Pretreating the water supply with H2O2 will drive out the Chlorine many cities use to sterilize it. This will also degrade any pesticides or herbicides that might be present as well as any other organic matter. Well water can be high in methane and organic sulfates, both of which H2O2 will remove. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by Oxygen, the free Oxygen H2O2 releases is extremely effective at this. H2O2 will help eliminate existing infections and will help prevent future ones. It is also useful for suppressing algae growth. The free Oxygen atom will destroy dead organic material (i.e, leaves roots) in the system preventing them from rotting and spreading diseases.
2.Over Watering
Roots require Oxygen to breathe and low levels are the main cause of almost all root diseases. Both soil and hydroponic plants often fall prey to the same syndrome although it is rarely recognized as what it really is. Hydroponic crops often fail due to "root rot" and soil crops succumb to "over watering." The real cause of both these problems is a shortage of Oxygen at the root zone. In a soil system the soil consists of particles, a film of water on the particles and air spaces between the particles. When too much water is put into the soil the air spaces fill with liquid. The roots will quickly use up what Oxygen is dissolved in the water, if they haven't drunk enough of the liquid to allow air back in to the soil spaces they will stop working. In this situation roots will start dying within twenty-four hours. As the roots die the plants ability to drink water and nutrients will decrease, this will cause symptoms of nutrient deficiencies (mostly pale, slow, weak growth), and strangely they will start to wilt like they don't have enough water. It is easy to make a fatal mistake at this point and add more water.
In a Hydroponic system the cause is a more direct simple lack of oxygen in the solution, this may be from inadequate circulation and/or aeration. High reservoir temperatures also interfere with Oxygen's ability to dissolve in the water. Temperatures above 70F (20C) will eventually cause problems, 62F-65F (16C-18C) is recommended. The same symptoms will appear as with soil plants but you can also check the roots. Healthy roots should be mostly white with maybe a slight yellowish tan tinge. If they are a brownish colour with dead tips or they easily pull away there is at least the beginnings of a serious problem. An organic dirtlike rotting smell means there is already a very good chance it is too late. As roots die and rot they eat Oxygen out of the water, as Oxygen levels are even further depleted more roots die, a viscius circle may be well under way. Reduced Oxygen levels and high temperatures both encourage anaerobic bacteria and fungi. The plants may still be saved but you will have to work fast.
3. How Hydrogen Peroxide prevents root rot/overwatering.
When plants are watered with H2O2 it will break down and release Oxygen into the area around the roots. This helps stop the Oxygen from being depleted in the water filled air spaces until air can get back into them. High Oxygen levels at the roots will encourage rapid healthy root growth. In a Hydroponic system H2O2 will disperse through out the system and raise Oxygen levels as it breaks down. Strong white healthy roots with lots of fuzzy new growth will be visible. This fuzzy growth has massive surface area allowing for rapid absorption of the huge amounts of water and nutrients needed for rapid top growth. A healthy plant starts with a healthy root system.
4. How to use it.
H2O2 comes in several different strengths 3%, 5%, 8% and 35%, also sold as food grade Hydrogen Peroxide. The most economical is 35% which we recommend be diluted to three percent before using, as at this high concentration it can cause damage to skin and clothing. When working with food grade H2O2 it is very important that you clean up any spills or splashes immediately, it will damage almost anything very quickly. This is extra important with skin and clothing. Skin will be temporarily bleached pure white if not washed cleaned. Gloves are strongly recommended when working with any strong chemical.
Food grade H2O2 can be diluted to three percent by mixing it one part to eleven parts water (preferably distilled). The storage container should be opaque to prevent light from getting in and it must be able to hold some pressure. If three-liter pop bottles are available in your area they are ideal for mixing and storing H2O2. There are twelve quarter liters (250ml) in three liters, if you put in one quarter liter H2O2 and eleven quarter liters (250ml) water in the bottle it will full of three percent H2O2 and the bottle can hold the pressure that the H2O2 will generate. Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to three ml's per liter (2 1\2 tsp. Per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks. Use every watering even on fresh cuttings. For hydroponics use every reservoir change and replace twenty-five percent (one quarter) every day. Example: In a 100L reservoir you would add three hundred ml's (3%) H2O2 when changing the nutrient. You would then add seventy-five ml's more every day.
5. Where to get it.
35% food grade: called food grade because it has no toxic impurities
Of course your local hydroponics retailer, whom you can locate over the web at www.hydromall.com. Direct order off the web (there may be shipping restrictions on high strength peroxides). H2O2 is used to bleach hair so the local hairdresser may have a source. The local feed supplier may have it in small towns. Prices range from fifteen dollars per quarter liter to eighty dollars a gallon. One gallon will treat up to fifty thousand liters of water.
3%5%, 8%
Can be found at most drugstores or pharmacies, prices start at a less than a dollar for a one hundred-ml bottle that will treat one hundred liters.
6. What to do if you already have root rot.
In Dirt:
Use peroxided water with anti-fungicide (benomyl) and a high Phosphate fertilizer (9-45-15, 10-52-10, 0-60-0) for root growth. Root booster (5-15-5) or any other product with rooting hormone dissolved in it is helpful in regrowing roots and is strongly recommended. If a plant is wilty adding Nutri-Boost may save it. Water heavily until liquid pours out the bottom of the pot. This sound like bad idea, but it flushes out stagnant dead water and replaces it with fresh highly oxygenated water. Don't let plants sit in trays full of water, the soil will absorb this water and stay too wet. Don't water again until the pot feels light and the top inch or two of the soil are dry.
In Hydro:
Change your nutrients. Add H2O2 to the system. This will add oxygen and chemically eat dead roots. If roots are badly rotted and can be pulled away by hand you should pull them off. They are already dead and will only rot, causing further problems. Add a fungicide to kill any fungus that is probably present in the rotted tissue to prevent it from spreading. Root booster will speed recovery. If plants are wilty Nutri-Boost may help save them. Increase aeration of the water, get an airpump and air stones, or more of them, for the reservoir. An air stone under every plant is usually very effective, but will require a larger air pump. Models that will do from forty to four hundred stones are available. Decrease the reservoir temperature, oxygen dissolves better in cold water and disease causing organisms reproduce slower as well. A good temperate range is 62F to 65F; anything above 70F will eventually cause a problem. It is also a good idea to remove any wilty plants from the system and put them on a separate reservoir so they don't infect plants that are still healthy.
Summary
The key to big productive plants is a big healthy root system and Hydrogen Peroxide is a great way to keep your roots healthy. It is a must to ensure the biggest best crops possible and to increase the chances of your plants thriving to harvest. Peroxide users will rarely lose plants or crops to root disease and will harvest larger and more consistent crops.

 

eza82

Well-Known Member
2. MOLASSES
There are three main types of Molasses:-
Unsulphured
Sulphured
Blackstrap
Unsulphured Molasses are the finest quality, they are taken from the juice of sun-ripened Sugar Cane whihc is then clarified and concentrated.
Sulphured - These are made from green sugar that has not been matured enough, it is treated with sulphur fumes during the sugar extracting process. It then goes through a first boiling process - the Molasses from this first boil are the best as only a small amount of sugar has been removed. The process then goes into it's second boil which makes the Molasses a much darker colour, they are also not as sweet and are not distinctively flavoured.

Blackstrap - These are Molasses that have gone through the third boil. There main use is in the manufacturer of Cattle Food and Industrial Uses. Saying that these Molasses are extremely high in Iron and are also used in the health food industry.

Molasses and our plants!
Molasses is a syrupy, thick juice created by the processing of either sugar beets or the sugar cane plant. Depending on the definition used, Sweet Sorghum also qualifies as a molasses, although technically it’s a thickened syrup more akin to Maple Syrup than to molasses. The grade and type of molasses depends on the maturity of the sugar cane or beet and the method of extraction. The different molasses’ have names like: first molasses, second molasses, unsulphured molasses, sulphured molasses, and blackstrap molasses. For gardeners the sweet syrup can work as a carbohydrate source to feed and stimulate microorganisms. And, because molasses (average NPK 1-0-5) contains potash, sulfur, and many trace minerals, it can serve as a nutritious soil amendment. Molasses is also an excellent chelating agent.

Several grades and types of molasses are produced by sugar cane processing. First the plants are harvested and stripped of their leaves, and then the sugar cane is usually crushed or mashed to extract it’s sugary juice. Sugar manufacturing begins by boiling cane juice until it reaches the proper consistency, it is then processed to extract sugar. This first boiling and processing produces what is called first molasses, this has the highest sugar content of the molasses because relatively little sugar has been extracted from the juice. Green (unripe) sugar cane that has been treated with sulphur fumes during sugar extraction produces sulphured molasses. The juice of sun-ripened cane which has been clarified and concentrated produces unsulphured molasses. Another boiling and sugar extraction produces second molasses which has a slight bitter tinge to its taste.

Further rounds of processing and boiling yield dark colored blackstrap molasses, which is the most nutritionally valuable of the various types of molasses. It is commonly used as a sweetner in the manufacture of cattle and other animal feeds, and is even sold as a human health supplement. Any kind of molasses will work to provide benefit for soil and growing plants, but blackstrap molasses is the best choice because it contains the greatest concentration of sulfur, iron and micronutrients from the original cane material. Dry molasses is something different still. It’s not exactly just dried molasses either, it’s molasses sprayed on grain residue which acts as a “carrier”.

Molasses production is a bit different when it comes to the sugar beet. You might say “bird’s know beets” because one of our flock grew up near Canada’s “sugar beet capitol” in Alberta. Their family worked side by side with migrant workers tending the beet fields. The work consisted of weeding and thinning by hand, culling the thinner and weaker plants to leave behind the best beets. After the growing season and several hard frosts - which increase the sugar content - the beets are harvested by machines, piled on trucks and delivered to their destination.

At harvest time, a huge pile of beets will begin to build up outside of the sugar factory that will eventually dwarf the factory itself in size. Gradually throughout the winter the pile will diminish as the whole beets are ground into a mash and then cooked. The cooking serves to reduce and clarify the beet mash, releasing huge columns of stinky (but harmless) beet steam into the air. Sometimes, if the air is cold enough, the steam will fall to the ground around the factory as snow!

As we’ve already learned, in the of sugar cane the consecutive rounds of sugar manufacturing produce first molasses and second molasses. With the humble sugar beet, the intermediate syrups get names like high green and low green, it’s only the syrup left after the final stage of sugar extraction that is called molasses. After final processing, the leftover sugar beet mash is dried then combined with the thick black colored molasses to serve as fodder for cattle. Sugar beet molasses is also used to sweeten feed for horses, sheep, chickens, etc.

Sugar beet molasses is only considered useful as an animal feed additive because it has fairly high concentrations of many salts including calcium, potassium, oxalate, and chloride. Despite the fact that it’s not suitable for human consumption and some consider it to be an industrial waste or industrial by-product, molasses produced from sugar beets makes a wonderful plant fertilizer. While humans may reject beet molasses due to the various “extras” the sugar beet brings to the table, to our plant’s it’s a different story. Sugar beet molasses is usually fairly chemical free as well, at least in our experience. Although farmers generally fertilize their fields in the spring using the various arrays of available fertilizers, weed chemicals (herbicides) are not used for this crop due to the beet plant’s relatively delicate nature.

There is at least one other type of “molasses” we are aware of, and that would be sorghum molasses. It’s made from a plant known as sweet sorghum or sorghum cane in treatments somewhat similar to sugar beets and/or sugar cane processing. If our understanding is correct, sorghum molasses is more correctly called a thickened syrup rather than a by-product of sugar production. So in our eyes sorghum molasses is probably more like Maple Syrup than a true molasses.

In the distant past sorghum syrup was a common locally produced sweetener in many areas, but today it is fairly rare speciality product that could get fairly pricey compared to Molasses. Because sorghum molasses is the final product of sweet sorghum processing, and blackstrap and sugar beet molasses are simply waste by-products of sugar manufacturing, it’s pretty easy to understand the difference in expense between the products. The word from the birds is - there isn’t any apparent advantage to justify the extra expense of using sorghum molasses as a substitute for blackstrap or sugar beet molasses in the garden. So if you find sorghum molasses, instead of using it in your garden, you’ll probably want to use it as an alternate sweetener on some biscuits.

That’s a quick bird’s eye look at the differences between the various types and grades of molasses and how they are produced. Now it’s time to get a peek at the why’s and how’s of using molasses in gardening.


Why Molasses?
The reason nutrient manufacturer’s have “discovered” molasses is the simple fact that it’s a great source of carbohydrates to stimulate the growth of beneficial microorganisms. “Carbohydrate” is really just a fancy word for sugar, and molasses is the best sugar for horticultural use. Folks who have read some of our prior essays know that we are big fans of promoting and nourishing soil life, and that we attribute a good portion of our growing success to the attention we pay to building a thriving “micro-herd” to work in concert with plant roots to digest and assimilate nutrients. We really do buy into the old organic gardening adage - “Feed the soil not the plant.”

Molasses is a good, quick source of energy for the various forms of microbes and soil life in a compost pile or good living soil. As we said earlier, molasses is a carbon source that feeds the beneficial microbes that create greater natural soil fertility. But, if giving a sugar boost was the only goal, there would be lot’s of alternatives. We could even go with the old Milly Blunt story of using Coke on plants as a child, after all Coke would be a great source of sugar to feed microbes and it also contains phosphoric acid to provide phosphorus for strengthening roots and encouraging blooming. In our eyes though, the primary thing that makes molasses the best sugar for agricultural use is it’s trace minerals.

In addition to sugars, molasses contains significant amounts of potash, sulfur, and a variety of micronutrients. Because molasses is derived from plants, and because the manufacturing processes that create it remove mostly sugars, the majority of the mineral nutrients that were contained in the original sugar cane or sugar beet are still present in molasses. This is a critical factor because a balanced supply of mineral nutrients is essential for those “beneficial beasties” to survive and thrive. That’s one of the secrets we’ve discovered to really successful organic gardening, the micronutrients found in organic amendments like molasses, kelp, and alfalfa were all derived from other plant sources and are quickly and easily available to our soil and plants. This is especially important for the soil “micro-herd” of critters who depend on tiny amounts of those trace minerals as catalysts to make the enzymes that create biochemical transformations. That last sentence was our fancy way of saying - it’s actually the critters in “live soil” that break down organic fertilizers and “feed” it to our plants.

One final benefit molasses can provide to your garden is it’s ability to work as a chelating agent. That’s a scientific way of saying that molasses is one of those “magical” substances that can convert some chemical nutrients into a form that’s easily available for critters and plants. Chelated minerals can be absorbed directly and remain available and stable in the soil. Rather than spend a lot of time and effort explaining the relationships between chelates and micronutrients, we are going to quote one of our favorite sources for explaining soil for scientific laymen.

“Micronutrients occur, in cells as well as in soil, as part of large, complex organic molecules in chelated form. The word chelate (pronounced “KEE-late”) comes from the Greek word for “claw,” which indicates how a single nutrient ion is held in the center of the larger molecule. The finely balanced interactions between micronutrients are complex and not fully understood. We do know that balance is crucial; any micronutrient, when present in excessive amounts, will become a poison, and certain poisonous elements, such as chlorine are also essential micronutrients.
For this reason natural, organic sources of micronutrients are the best means of supplying them to the soil; they are present in balanced quantities and not liable to be over applied through error or ignorance. When used in naturally chelated form, excess micronutrients will be locked up and prevented from disrupting soil balance.”

ref: http://forum.grasscity.com/general-indoor-growing/202743-molasses-our-plants.html
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
FINALLY DONE! TOTAL FEED SCHEDUAL for MY NEW GROW EXPERIMENT..............

PLEASE FIND Attached a Excel spread (zipped)with
NUTES, VITAMNS, HORMONES, MICRO NUTES, PGR`S........ 13 WK CYCLE:mrgreen::mrgreen:
Everything is from label recommendations or successfull experiments ive read about....(except penatrator)


ANY THOUGHTS..... CRITISIMS or opinions please express............

gIVE ME A YELL IF IT DONT WORK!............ cANT FOR THE LIFE OF ME FIGURE OUT HOW TO GET IT DISPLAYED RATHER THAN ATTACHMENT????? aNYBODY KNOW HOW i CAN DIRECT UP LOAD (BAR TAKIN A PHOTO OF IT) SO ITS ON THE THREAd AS A CHART NOT ATTACHMENT???????
 

Attachments

eza82

Well-Known Member
Thought I might up date the ladies photos for everyone.... 15 days flower & the crowns are already about the size of my fist. Lights have just gone on so they have just woken up..... i luv hormones....






Im going to get this last photo framed for the wall........ & its my new desk top
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
iN FEED SCHEDUAL THE BRASSINOLIDE SHOULD BE FOR APPLICATION: WEEK 3 VEG....... i WAS JUST READING OVER MY NOTES. here it is again with RIGHT TIMING:
 

Greenisgold

Well-Known Member
Wow, this is quite the informative thread and I have to give it to ya for trying some of these hormonoes out. I did not read the entire thread, but I use a product called tomato bloom spray II. I use it right when buds just start to form. I spray it on during lights off, If I use it at the perfect time I get explosive results within 2 days. If I do not use it at the right time, I get nothing or it locks the plant up just a tad. I have used it on clones and have experimented side by side, and the ones I spray "usually" will out perform the ones I do not.
Alfaffa meal is the shit as well which is supposedly what ST is made from.
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
The whole thread is littered with my collection of studies and papers found,written,copied etc..... So if your into this shit..........
Find out whats in the bloom spray for me ?????
 

onenumcat

Well-Known Member
I'm not new to the idea/information, but that sheeet is expensive especially the GA3! so, I'm trying to do similar things, naturally.
I'm also lazy, so the rest of this was copies from my other post, of your's: (https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/159124-photos-ladies-15days-flower-4.html)

'yup, looking good eza. I've been trying to harness hormones(god, I luv it when they moan!), naturally, for some little while now. primarily, ethylene...since it's gaseous, it's easier to manipulate, right at it's source...the plant. also, whenever one hormone is stimulated or increased, the other 4, primary, whoremoans(oops!) will become more active.

I start the process from seed, using several methods\techniques.
first, bag those lil beauties with b'nana peels or apple, melon, cuccumber rinds, for two weeks.
next, just as the true veg stage begins...I gas them with CO, carbon monixide. they get several sessions, several hours each. the room is sealed during...I air it out afterwards.
then, final one, just as I switch the lights to 12\12, I bag them with a large, clear(transparent), plastic bag, which reaches down to the bottom of the planter, placing the veg/fruit rinds, again, just on top of the soil, under the bag, at night only...removing the bag and rinds about an hour or so after lights on/'morning'. (I haven't gotten to this stage in my grow yet)
forgot to add...I'll only do that for several days, to speed up the start of flowering, but...
I'll do the exact same thing, just before harvesting, to assist the final ripening and begin abscission, dropping of fruit/leaves.

if you haven't seen my lights....they're here, pretty kool, if I say so myself!
http://www.youtube.com/onenumcat

my journal: 5 strains! Medi-bud, THC Bomb, Mango, SS Haze, J. Herer

keep tokin! :bigjoint:'
 

eza82

Well-Known Member
Did you read the feed schedual?? Im useing FALGRO...... Not that expensive..... comes in large quantities and I need SFA....
Falgo contains gibberellic acid (GA3). Gibberellins are compounds that are naturally produced within plants to stimulate growth. Fine has developed a unique fermentation method of naturally producing GA3 and markets the compound for use in ornamental plants as falgro. Falgro has a huge variety of useful applications including elongation of peduncles in Pompom Chrysanthemums, earlier flowering and increased yield in Statice and accelerated plant growth with increased number of flowering stems in Gypsophila. Offering flexibility of use, falgro is formulated as easy to use liquid, powder and tablet formulations.
http://www.fine-agrochemicals.com/Content/ProdH.asp?id=21
 

onenumcat

Well-Known Member
my own method is free, cuz I'm a cheap bastard! (one of many character flaws, lol) of course, it's all experimental!
I'll keep lookin in from time to time, and probably, sooner than later.

Keep it real...:bigjoint:

ah, I see....
uh, I live in Japan...don't read Japanese...and would have to order online...if it would even make it through customs....
well, you see my problem...
...doing the best I can.
 
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