How am I doing

Bosson26

Active Member
scratch that. dont get the bloom booster. it's actually flower food. .. smh @ myself. brb going to homedepot.
 

JN811

Well-Known Member
here's my plant. using ONLY miracle grow and bloom booster. it's the easiest way to go. use the juice container to compare my plant size.. at the top the light is only 2 inch away from my plant. i took the light off the other side of the plant so u can see my plant better. anybody still think miracle grow is a fail?




BAM BITTEECCCHHH!!:weed:
yes miracle grow will work, but using it is dangerous because it is so strong. When you use a 3-5 part organic system you can personalize your mix to give the plant the right amounts of what it needs.
 

JN811

Well-Known Member
you need some red spectum light if you want to get good results. Your plant looks pretty stretched.
 

Bosson26

Active Member
im not tryin to thread jack. but for ur info these are red spec. there's only 2 daylight white and 6 27000K.

back to the dude's problem.
 

GidgetGrows

Well-Known Member
When my plant hit about 2 weeks of flowering the leaves started to yellow since she had sucked all the nutrients out of the soil.

Your plant looks great, nice fat leaves (indicate Indica) deep green color. The 11 leaf thing doesn't really matter, its just healthy and happy!

I am using Schultz 10-15-10 liquid fertilizer for my plants in flowering, I picked it up at Home Depot. Dunno if that's "right" according to the majority of the site, but it seems to work for me.

Go Go CFLs!!! :weed:
 

JN811

Well-Known Member
oops I thought that was his pic.. you shouldnt be posting yours in other ppls threads
 

JN811

Well-Known Member
no, not for flowering.. It has too much nitrogen. you are looking for something like 2-8-4
 

FuZZyBUDz

Well-Known Member
i agree JN. if ur set up is the same as the piks in the first page, then u need sum more light on the other side of the plant, i dont kno if any one said this already but, did u notice the foliage is thicker on the side with the 2 CFL's than the side with out?? ur plant can only eat so much food, but with those CFL's u should try to rock 5-6 of them, depending on size.
 

JN811

Well-Known Member
dont get me wrong your plant looks good and healthy, but plants need a lot of light during flowering. The more light the better. Your plant looks a bit stretchy, and Im sure it will continue without more light. In order to get dense good sized buds you need a lot of light. Ill post a link give me a second.
 

byrd2245

Member
i dont think so i have one with 11 and four from the same seeds that range from 7 to 9 with fan leafs one or two 11.
 

JN811

Well-Known Member
Here this should help!


Things to know about lighting
Things to know about lighting
Color rating- Measured in Kelvin (K). The higher the number, the more bluish the light. 4000K-7000K is mostly on the blue side of the spectrum, while 3000K and under goes from a white spectrum, to a redder spectrum.

How much light is needed?
The minimum amount of light required by marijuana plants is around 3000 lumens per square foot. However, it's not 100% accurate, since although you may have a 10,000 lumen light, the amount of light that reaches the plant varies with the distance between the light and plants, and reflectivity of the grow box. The ideal amount is somewhere around 7000-10,000 lumens/sqft, and as long as the plants do not burn, as much light can be used as you want.
(*note, the sun produces about 10,000 lumens/sqft, on a sunny summer day).

Determining lumens for your grow area:
Determine the square footage of your area (example in a 4 foot by 4 foot area, there is 16 square feet)
If you have a 1000 watt High Pressure Sodium, that produces (approx.) 107,000 lumens.
Divide this by 16 (your square footage) 107,000 / 16 = 6687 lumens per square foot.
So just divide the total amount of Lumens, by the total amount of Sq ft, and thats your lumens per square foot.

How far away from my plants do the lights go?
The lights in your grow room should be as close as possible to the plants without burning them. There is no such thing as too much, unless there is sufficient heat to dry out and burn the leaves. A good rule is to put your hand under the light, if its too hot for your hand, chances are that the plants will be too, so move the light up until your hand feels more comfortable. For seedlings and clones, I keep them a little further away from the light, because they are very susceptible to burning and drying out, at these stages.

Efficiency is very important when choosing a type of light. The wattage is not the most important thing, as you can see below, different types of light produce different amounts of lumens per watt. A 300 watt incandescent will produce about 5100 lumens. While a 300 watt Metal Halide (just an example, they do not come in 300 watts), will produce 27,000 lumens. Obviously far more efficient for growing, while still using the same amount of electricity.

Approximate light production:
Incandescents: 17 lumens/watt
Mercury vapor: 45-50 lumens/watt
Fluorescents: 60-70 lumens/watt
Metal halide: 90 lumens/watt
High pressure sodium: 107 lumens/watt

Incandescent lights: Incandescents are the most popular type of lights in the world. They may come advertised as incandescent, tungsten, quartz, halogen, or simply standard. The important thing about incandescents is this: they suck.
There are some incandescents which are sold as 'grow lights.' They usually have a blue coating and usually come in 60W and 120W sizes. While they may seem like a good choice to new growers, they are next to useless; they produce some light at a usable spectrum, but only have about a 5% efficiency and generate more heat than usable light. Most of us have these in our homes right now. Don't use them for growing, instead opt for a Compact Fluorescent as a cheaper but more efficient alternative.

Fluorescent lights: Fluorescents are a lot more useful than incandescents. Their efficient enough, and cheaper than HID lights. Compact fluorescent tubes are popular with growers because of their good output to size ratio. Compared to standard 4' tubes, compact fluorescent bulbs are smaller, and more can fit into a given area. Fluorescents are good for small grows on a tight budget, and for novice growers, since they do not require any special sort of wiring or understanding of the necessary bulbs for a given fixture, and are very widely available.
Fluorescent lights come in many different Kelvin ratings; often the spectrums are labeled on packaging as being 'cool white' or 'warm white.' Cool white is more blue, and is good for the vegetative stages of growth, and warm white light is more orange or reddish, and is best for the flowering stage.

High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lighting Systems:

Mercury Vapor (MV)
Mercury vapor lights are not the most efficient light for growing. They are very bright, and relatively cheap. They do emit light at the wavelengths necessary to support your plants growth, but not nearly as good as a MH or Hps light. Much of the light emitted by MV lights is bluish-white. Street lighting is what most MV lighting is used for.

Metal Halide (MH)
Metal halide lighting systems are optimal for use in the vegetative phase of growing. They emit mostly blue light, which encourages vigorous growth of foliage. They are very efficient, but can get rather expensive to start with; fluorescents may seem more appealing because of their lower price, and they are not much different when compared on a lumen-to-lumen cost level. These lights can be used through-out the grow, but will most likely result in light, fluffy buds.

High Pressure Sodium (HPS)
High pressure sodium lights emit mostly orange, yellow, and red spectrum light, which is perfect for the flowering stage of the plants growth. They are (in my opinion) the most efficient type of light available for any application. HPS lights can be used through-out the entire grow. They produce more dense and usually larger buds than any other light.
HPS lights are generally a little more expensive than MH systems of similar wattage. They are more commonly used by experienced growers because of their ability to produce tighter buds, higher lumen-output-per-watt, and will produce from start to finish.

I'll also add this graph below, i hope this post helps some of you out.
 
Top