How do you this this progression?

rockerbosit

New Member
What do you think this is? This is an approximate progression of the leaf situation.. Tho not accurate. But you can see how all leaves look in different stages. Please help me diagnose. I am first
time grower.

Medium : Soil
Strain: Watermelon Candy Auto
Stage : Flowering Week 3
Temp: 22-26 deg
RH: 55-70%
Fertilizer: N, P and K now with Tap water. Thinking this might be a Ca deficiency, also gave Ca but situation didnt improve much.

Could this be nute def? Or fungus like Septoria?PXL_20250809_101008684.jpg
 

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Last edited:
Soil is tough Ive done it a few times. Finding a grow method is a lot like when a kitten or puppy picks you as its human. You just try it and its the only thing that works and easily. Id just stick to that. Good luck, Id help but I suck at soil.
 
"Step 4 Adjust pH to 6.o"
For Hydroponics, sure (I like 5.7), but for soil I wouldn't go lower than 6.5 (6.7 works for me).
Dry top dress on tent soil works well, then all they need is good water. I've seen deficiency improvement in as little as 3 days with it, but I prefer to start the run with quality dirt, rather than trying to play doctor later. I'm sure there's a few good soil recipes on here somewhere, you might find one specific to autos for next time.

It looks like the advanced stages of a deficiency to me.
Dead plant material will decay and may cause other issues so keep an eye on that.
If your environment is dialed in, check your soil ph.

I've had a lot of successes and a few failures with soil in tents. It truly is about finding what works for you.
Yield isn't going to be anything to brag about with this run, but first grow buds get you SO f'in baked so who cares.

bongsmilie
 
Yeah definitely looks like something is out of balance. What kind of soil did you start with? What size pot? And did you add the "Zamnesia Monster Bud Mix" to the soil before planting?
 
One factor contributing to your nutrient imbalance is that you have a cool and wet environment.

Plants take up the majority of their nutrients when water flows into the roots. Water flows into the roots primarily to replace water that the plant loses to the air in the tent via transpiration. Transpiration is driven by the temperature and humidity of the grow environment, though wind speed does play a factor.

Your temperature and RH ranges are 22-26 and 55-70. That's a cool and, for a cannabis plant in the flowering stage, moist/damp/wet environment.

26°C is a good temperature for flower and at 55% RH your plant is doing well. Once RH hits 60% and/or temps drop lower than 26 the cooler temps and higher RH act to reduce transpiration. When that happens, water uptake is reduced, and, when that happens, nutrient uptake is reduced. It's all connected.

Given that these are autos, you can run them 24/0. Cannabis does not need "lights out". One of the advantages of keeping the lights on is that it will tend to increase temperature and that will tend to decrease RH and that means transpiration will go up and you'll get more nutrients flowing into your plants. I mentioned "it's all connected"?

Also, more light=more weed, so there's that.

I'd say that the first thing to do is increase the lights on period since that's the easiest thing to change and, second, there's no downside to it.

Then, get your temperature up and your RH down. Increased lights on time will increase transpiration so that will tend to increase RH so you'll have to balance that out since it's all connected. :-)

After that, your nutrient uptake will increase and you might find that the imbalances are resolved. As it stands now, however, those temps + RH are working against you.


More light, you say?

My first grows were autos and they grow magnificently under 21/3, 20/4, 24/0 or whatever you throw at them.

In the picture below, there is a plant hiding in the left corner but these autos were vegged using 24/0 and then pretty much whatever I felt like giving them (20/4 a lot of the time). Feed your autos well. They love it.

1754766897702.jpeg
 
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