How does humidity affect growth?

Clumpyoyster

Clumpyoyster

Well-Known Member
T macc said:
I think good airflow is a bonus in any environment. I just got an oscillating clip fan for this tent too. I come from near the coastline in California and it's not unusual to have fog at harvest time, but it's also a windy city, so we do good.
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Fresh air flow is everything in a plants health. No fresh air. No circulation. Death to plant.
 
curious2garden

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
T macc said:
I think good airflow is a bonus in any environment. I just got an oscillating clip fan for this tent too. I come from near the coastline in California and it's not unusual to have fog at harvest time, but it's also a windy city, so we do good.
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If you can stay within the VPD curve your plants will do fabulously for you. If you can't you won't necessarily kill them. I'm in the Mojave Desert and I don't air condition. So I have the opposite of your problem. I never run above 20% humidity and for the most part I'm around 10%. My canopy runs 105 for months at a time.

My grows look the best during the winter but my summer crops are just as potent, although they don't look as nice, and I get a slightly smaller yield, which is fine by me since I'm just strain hunting and breeding for pain relief strains. Consider VPD as something to shoot for but don't stress if you can't hit it. Ultimately this is a weed and it's relatively hard to kill.
 
T macc

T macc

Well-Known Member
Clumpyoyster said:
So just tap water? No ph balancing?
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Nope. I really dont care to complicate organic soil. The water in my sink comes out at 100ppm @ 7 Ph. I dont have a Ph pen to test the new source. I want to get my new soil tested to see what to add. Or take out

curious2garden said:
If you can stay within the VPD curve your plants will do fabulously for you. If you can't you won't necessarily kill them. I'm in the Mojave Desert and I don't air condition. So I have the opposite of your problem. I never run above 20% humidity and for the most part I'm around 10%. My canopy runs 105 for months at a time.

My grows look the best during the winter but my summer crops are just as potent, although they don't look as nice, and I get a slightly smaller yield, which is fine by me since I'm just strain hunting and breeding for pain relief strains. Consider VPD as something to shoot for but don't stress if you can't hit it. Ultimately this is a weed and it's relatively hard to kill.
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I never cared about VPD. Its interesting, but I grow with what the seasons give me and never have a mold problem. Summertime, I turn down my lights. It gets hot and humid here. Right now, I have to run the heat. Its freezing.
 
curious2garden

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
T macc said:
Nope. I really dont care to complicate organic soil. The water in my sink comes out at 100ppm @ 7 Ph. I dont have a Ph pen to test the new source. I want to get my new soil tested to see what to add. Or take out


I never cared about VPD. Its interesting, but I grow with what the seasons give me and never have a mold problem. Summertime, I turn down my lights. It gets hot and humid here. Right now, I have to run the heat. Its freezing.
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Exactly, VPD is a nice guideline but... 100 PPM is great water and my understanding is if you're in soil the microherd takes care of pH. I go with whatever gets you through with the least stress and there's not just one way to grow. There's many ways to skin a cat.
 
T macc

T macc

Well-Known Member
curious2garden said:
Exactly, VPD is a nice guideline but... 100 PPM is great water and my understanding is if you're in soil the microherd takes care of pH. I go with whatever gets you through with the least stress and there's not just one way to grow. There's many ways to skin a cat.
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Yea. I ran no till with no problems for 2 years in 45 gallon pots. Worms were thrown in to breed for 2 years. Emptied the pots a few months ago to start this cycle; 50/50 old/new soil. I think the ph is off, cause of the nitrogen toxicity and dying leaves on some. 45s are easy, 1 gallons are different for me. I wish I could get in there and water with peach KNF to keep the herd going
 
3

357Slug

Well-Known Member
ComfortCreator said:
Humidity control demands a lot of good air circulation! The "safety" from too high humidity is great airflow. Not a wind tunnel, but breezy.

What I found confusing starting out is the VPD chart. Its valid. Its pretty cool actually because in the zone during veg you can tell its right. But how the heck do I follow the VPD chart and run LEDs at 84 degrees and have humidity of 70% without mold in flower?

Well..maybe with airflow and the right strain. A gent above does it, isnt the only one and if you can do that awesome. But you dont have to in flower. The plants once mature enough can handle RH lower than the ideal range. As you ask...yes they transpire more to make up for the deficit. Yes they use water faster this way. But caution as JD says, there is a range it must be in. The general rule is 40 to 50% is good for flower and above 50% is the danger zone.

In most of the natural world, humidity or water content above 50% is conducive to mold growth...it requires spores but thats not usually hard to come by! They are everywhere except a clean room.
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Airflow is the answer to your 70% humidity question. I've run 70-75 right to harvest with no problems rock hard buds. 4+ fans + exhaust.
 
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