How hard can you push the samsung F series gen 3 strips?

thetr33man

thetr33man

Well-Known Member
Assuming you have adequate cooling how much above 'nominal' current can they run?
SI-B8U261560WW is rated at 1.12A but what is MAX. Anyone try pushing one till it dies?
 
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Viceman666

Well-Known Member
Check this video from Led gardener

He tried to blow up a quantum board.. which is the same led used in the strip if Im not mistaken.. needless to say that they can take a lot of current if you can deal with the heat.. however more current you put .. less efficient they become which is one of the major reason you go LED instead of HPS.. so if it doesnt matter to you and you can keep them cool yes the strip should be able to take a shit ton of current.. maybe some people here have actual numbers but I wouldnt be too worry about blowing your strip because you gave them too much current
 
thetr33man

thetr33man

Well-Known Member
Wow, thats impressive. Would be interesting to know how bad efficiency gets when they are pushed that hard. I ordered one of those strips and was going to use a 60w driver to run it. Its got adjustable current so I can dial it back if necessary. Might be able to take the full 60 tho!
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
thetr33man said:
Assuming you have adequate cooling how much above 'nominal' current can they run?
SI-B8U261560WW is rated at 1.12A but what is MAX. Anyone try pushing one till it dies?
Click to expand...
The F-series uses the LM561C diode, at nominal current its running ~125 mA per diode. The LM561C is rated for 200 mA max current. Max current for the F strips works out to just under 1.8 Amps.
 
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Schalalala

Active Member
Viceman666 said:
He tried to blow up a quantum board.. which is the same led used in the strip if Im not mistaken..
Click to expand...
Just a side note: QBs have an aluminium PCB and therefore a WAAAAYYYY lower thermal resistance compared to the FR6 PCB material they use for stripes. (Which becomes more important with increasing heat flux density/driving current)
If LM561Cs would get overdriven that hard on a FR6 stripe, they probably would die or unsolder. Is this guy a active member here? Would be a funny follow up video!
 
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Grower899

Well-Known Member
Schalalala said:
Just a side note: QBs have an aluminium PCB and therefore a WAAAAYYYY lower thermal resistance compared to the FR6 PCB material they use for stripes. (Which becomes more important with increasing heat flux density/driving current)
If LM561Cs would get overdriven that hard on a FR6 stripe, they probably would die or unsolder. Is this guy a active member here? Would be a funny follow up video!
Click to expand...

I think he was/is a member, but im not sure how active he is since he has a website.
 
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augusto1

Well-Known Member
Schalalala said:
Just a side note: QBs have an aluminium PCB and therefore a WAAAAYYYY lower thermal resistance compared to the FR6 PCB material they use for stripes. (Which becomes more important with increasing heat flux density/driving current)
If LM561Cs would get overdriven that hard on a FR6 stripe, they probably would die or unsolder. Is this guy a active member here? Would be a funny follow up video!
Click to expand...
Yes, he is an active member.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/25-strip-build-designs-for-samsung-h-series-f-series-q-series-and-bridgelux-eb-gen-2.957842/#post-14044241
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
was running my double strips at 48.3V, not sure what current that converts to, but the calculator says it is circa 2.21A (about 106W). dialed them down to 46V now to run a bit cooler. not needed as there as it least 30 to 35C still to go before hitting the ceiling temp these guys were designed to out live (it is 100Foutside. I dropped the lights down a bit so it will be turned up as soon as I am happy it is not scorching the leaves).

the single strips are just half of this, but I think it has a little smaller surface area.
 
thetr33man

thetr33man

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
was running my double strips at 48.3V, not sure what current that converts to, but the calculator says it is circa 2.21A (about 106W). dialed them down to 46V now to run a bit cooler. not needed as there as it least 30 to 35C still to go before hitting the ceiling temp these guys were designed to out live (it is 100Foutside. I dropped the lights down a bit so it will be turned up as soon as I am happy it is not scorching the leaves).

the single strips are just half of this, but I think it has a little smaller surface area.
Click to expand...
Is that double 2ft or double 4ft strips? Ive got a pretty hefty 3' passive heatsink I plan to mount my strip on, should be plenty of cooling as long as the transfer is ok. I was going to use thermal tape but now I think Im going to use paste and screws instead, to make a better seal...
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
4 footers, I think the 2 footers are about 50W
If you go for single strips, have a google image search for 20mm LED extrusions... shit is quite cheap ex alibaba and will make life easier for you.
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
thetr33man said:
Is that double 2ft or double 4ft strips? Ive got a pretty hefty 3' passive heatsink I plan to mount my strip on, should be plenty of cooling as long as the transfer is ok. I was going to use thermal tape but now I think Im going to use paste and screws instead, to make a better seal...
Click to expand...
3" heatsink is way overkill unless you are going to mount two strips side by side on it. Even the 2.079 Heatsink USA profile is more than they need.
 
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PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
Schalalala said:
Just a side note: QBs have an aluminium PCB and therefore a WAAAAYYYY lower thermal resistance compared to the FR6 PCB material they use for stripes. (Which becomes more important with increasing heat flux density/driving current)
If LM561Cs would get overdriven that hard on a FR6 stripe, they probably would die or unsolder. Is this guy a active member here? Would be a funny follow up video!
Click to expand...
but you could aluminum back the FR6 PCB yourself. just like putting a ceramic based cob on a heatsink. ......
 
thetr33man

thetr33man

Well-Known Member
So I put my light together last night. Im a little disappointed because the 60w driver is only pulling 43w at the wall. Must have gone over voltage, its rated for 24v and this strip is supposed to be 23v @ 1120? Not as bright as I was hoping and it barely gets my heatsink warm. I mounted it with screws and thermal paste. I measured and its pulling about 1400ma from a driver thats supposed to put out 2500... :(
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Viceman666

Well-Known Member
thetr33man said:
So I put my light together last night. Im a little disappointed because the 60w driver is only pulling 43w at the wall. Must have gone over voltage, its rated for 24v and this strip is supposed to be 23v @ 1120? Not as bright as I was hoping and it barely gets my heatsink warm. I mounted it with screws and thermal paste. I measured and its pulling about 1400ma from a driver thats supposed to put out 2500... :(
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Click to expand...
Watt = volt x current
So if youre getting 43w at 23v it means you have 1.86A current

To get to 60 W you would need 2.5A

I have no idea if the strip can take it but thats the simple math
 
wietefras

wietefras

Well-Known Member
thetr33man said:
So I put my light together last night. Im a little disappointed because the 60w driver is only pulling 43w at the wall. Must have gone over voltage, its rated for 24v and this strip is supposed to be 23v @ 1120? Not as bright as I was hoping and it barely gets my heatsink warm. I mounted it with screws and thermal paste. I measured and its pulling about 1400ma from a driver thats supposed to put out 2500... :(
Click to expand...
Is there perhaps a dimmer pot on the driver which you can adjust to get it to full power?
 
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