How I handle PM

kvnbeach

Active Member
I have a small grow and use 2 seperate rooms, one for Vegg one for Flower. Over in the flower room, I get a little PM. Small amounts. Matter of fact, I may go 2 or 3 days till I see another spot. I am getting really good at spotting the PM spots. They never get bigger than half a cm or 1/8 of an inch. As soon as I see them I spray the effected area and below the leaf. As I have 3 plants in the flower room that are at different stages of flower:5 weeks, 3weeks and 1 week. Plus I will continue to add more plants to it as they come up, so I have to keep it under control.

Now my way seems to be working, but I cant completely get rid of it. I know about sulfur but that shit stinks right? I have shot a gun. Plus most sulfur burners are for a 1000sqft, my floor plan is 4'x6' or 24sqft. I live in Wa. state so it is always humid here. I also have Exhale a CO2 emitting bag of mecillium, this can cause mold too. Now, I use neem oil mixed with dishsoap, I have been using this methos now for a month. Seems to work. I found one leaf half covered in mold about 3 weeks ago, cut that off and treated all the other areas. Since then, it has been those small little patches. I search through the foliage several time a day looking for spots. I have wet dry containers in the flower room too. My humidity is 45% and my temps are 72'F. I have to run a heater during lights out or it would get into the 40'sF. Although, the plants preffer warm weather, it does not hurt them to get cold. Marijuana is one of the most resilient plants I have seen.

I would love to hear other feasable ideas on controlling PM. Oh, after I spray the pm with neem oil, it leaves a rust colored mark where the mold was. I love my girls!
 

Micj

Active Member
I had this problem for a couple of runs found I need more ventalation. Now I run ventalation (outside air) 24/7 with no sign of pm. My humidity 20%. Good Luck
 

kvnbeach

Active Member
Hey bro, did u read the thread? I am not harvesting, this is for people who are in the middle of flowering. PM is Powdery Mildew
 

Corso312

Well-Known Member
45% RH and a fan should be no pm. Maybe it is time to switch strains...I get pm on some outdoor plants and spray with ten parts milk to one part water...it works well.
 

justanotherbozo

Well-Known Member
first, increase your air-flow, with all that fungi present and with such humid conditions you need GOOD air-flow.

...then try adding a little milk to your spray bottle, you won't need much, ...i dilute it down to about 10 to 1 but you can actually use it full strength if you can find a spray bottle that won't clog with full strength milk in it, lol. ...and you can use any kind of milk, even powdered milk will work.

...anyway, the milk won't be able to eradicate the pm in one dose either, in my own case it took over a month of spraying every 3 days or so before the pm stopped coming back, ...and you need to be sure and spray ALL your plants, not just the ones you can actually see the pm on, ...your vegging plants too ...powdery mildew is systemic, like an infection, most sprays will only keep it in check, the milk on the other hand seeps into the plant and actually boosts the plants immune system and it will get rid of the pm, it just takes time.

in veg you can also use Eagle20 and i understand that this will work in a single treatment but it is unsafe to use in flower.

peace, bozo

btw, here is some info i dug up a few years ago when i was battling pm myself that you might find helpful.

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Milk is a useful fungicide in the garden, and is more effective than standard chemical brands.


Researchers believe the potassium phosphate in milk boosts a plant's immune system to fight the fungi.

Where most organic gardeners use a baking soda, soap and oil solution, milk may be substituted to combat the unwanted fungus.

Preparing a Milk Solution and Spraying Schedule

The correct dilution and spraying schedule for garden plants depends on the situation and takes some trial and error.

A milk fungicide solution can range from 1 part milk to 9 parts water, to a strong, milk-only solution. A 1:1 dilution may work for a week, but a 1:8 solution requires spraying every 3 or 4 days.

Skim milk may work better than whole milk, as the higher fat milk may clog a sprayer; even reconstituted powdered milk works.

Uses for Milk Fungicide

Milk was originally used in the garden to treat powdery mildew on squash plants. It is now also commonly used on flowers such as rudebekia (Black-eyed Susans) and Begonias to cure powdery mildew.

Milk has also been used to cure Botrytis on a Cyclamen houseplant. This was applied full strength every morning (leftover breakfast milk). Rotten leaves were picked away and the plant pulled through with no more Botrytis.

Black spots and rust on roses can be controlled but not cured with milk. Fortunately, milk can prevent the spread of these fungi to other plants and new leaves. This can be very useful when bringing home a plant from the nursery and finding a black spot.


The copyright of the article Milk as a Garden Fungicide for Powdery Mildew, Botrytis, and Black Spots in Organic Gardening is owned by Deborah Turton. Permission to republish Milk as a Garden Fungicide for Powdery Mildew, Botrytis, and Black Spots in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.


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by Arzeena Hamir
Powdery Mildew

Less than 3 years ago, researchers in South America discovered a new alternative to controlling powdery mildew. Wagner Bettiol, a scientist from Brazil, found that weekly sprays of milk controlled powdery mildew in zucchini just as effectively as synthetic fungicides such as fenarimol or benomyl. Not only was milk found to be effective at controlling the disease, it also acted as a foliar fertilizer, boosting the plant's immune system.

Powdery mildew in the cucurbit family is caused by the organism Sphaerotheca Fuliginea. It is a serious disease that occurs worldwide. For decades, organic gardeners had to rely on making a spray from baking soda to control the disease. Now, instead of measuring out the baking soda and combining it with a surfactant (a "sticking" substance) of either oil or soap, gardeners need only head for their refrigerators.

In his experiments with zucchini plants, Bettiol found that a weekly spray of milk at a concentration of at least 10% (1 part milk to 9 parts water) significantly reduced the severity of powdery mildew infection on the plants by 90%. While some gardeners may be tempted to increase the concentration of milk for more control, Bettiol found that once concentrations rose above 30%, an innoccuous fungus began to grow on the plants. How does milk control powdery mildew?

Scientist aren't 100% sure how milk works to control this disease. It seems that milk is a natural germicide. In addition, it contains several naturally occurring salts and amino acids that are taken up by the plant. From previous experiments using sodium bicarbonate, potassium phosphate, and other salts, researchers have found that the disease is sensitive to these salts. It is possible then, that milk boosts the plant's immune system to prevent the disease.

Milk used around the world
The benefits of using milk to control powdery mildew haven't been isolated to Brazil. Melon growers in New Zealand are saving thousands of dollars every year by spraying their crops with milk instead of synthetic fungicides. The melon growers in New Zealand have been so successful that the wine industry is taking notice and beginning experiments using milk to control powdery mildew in grapes.

What kind of milk should be used?
In Bettiol's original experiment, fresh milk was used, straight from the cow. However, this is obviously not feasible to most home gardeners. The research work in New Zealand actually found that using skim milk was just as effective. Not only was it cheaper, but the fact that the milk had no fat content meant that there was less chance of any odours.

Wagner Bettiol's original article was published in the journal Crop Science (Vol. 18, 1999, pp. 489-92).
 

kvnbeach

Active Member
I use a calcium nitro nutrient addative, it helps.U guys want to see what i am growing?

2012-12-15_12-01-03_500.jpg2012-12-15_12-02-09_941.jpg2012-12-15_12-02-46_926.jpg2012-12-20_07-04-00_653.jpg2012-12-20_07-04-34_801.jpg2012-12-20_07-04-50_863.jpg2012-12-20_07-05-21_380.jpg2012-12-20_07-05-45_781.jpg2012-12-20_07-06-13_847.jpgI am running a heater that burns a fliament. Kinda dangerous, but that might help with the PM. Ithought 45% humidity was ok.

@micj. It is in the 30'sF here right now. I am haveing problems keeping the room 70'F. I vent from the outside for the 4 months of summer we might have. I will be planting several Jack Herer's outside this year. Maybe middle of may. They will be 3'-4' tall by the time I stick them outside. Good head start! I am already Vegging ther mother from seed.
 

justanotherbozo

Well-Known Member
your plants look great man but i'd suggest you pluck a few fan leaves off too, like i said, you need good air-flow and your plants are very dense, ...are you growing them under MH by any chance?

anyway, they really do look good man, nice and vigorous.

peace, bozo

btw, you'll find a lot of haters who absolute are against plucking fans from your plants and rather than listen to the arguments i thought i'd post up a link you may find helpful in your decision making process.

...the purpose here is to increase yield but it is still well worth the read and in your case very much applicable.

Defoliation: Hi-Yield Technique

peace, bozo
 

kvnbeach

Active Member
bozo, i can see where ur coming from. I just have a hard time trimmin off. I go after the low ones, and have takin some useles shit below off, thanks for ur opinion. I think clearin a few out would be a good idea. I truly have a hard core canopy.
 

DST

Well-Known Member
kvnbeach, pm is supposedly a systemic disease, so if that is the case, if your plants have got it, then they have got it, not that it's end of the World (lol) Like the previous posters have said, air flow and environment is the key. The spores cangrow at temps above 60f so the right enviro is def key. keep treating as best you can until you get through flower and good luck.
DST
 

kvnbeach

Active Member
You know at night, I get temps in the 50's. That will keep the PM down?

I said I normally run a heater. Maybe keep the temps low at night. I have grown in pretty cold temps. I really havent seen it piss the plant off.
 

colonuggs

Well-Known Member
you want to fight it or get rid of it???

1)eagle 20... 5ml in a gallon of water spray all plants (in veg growth only).....

2)fungaflor anitfungal bomb for your grow room...(like a sulfur burner in a can but no rooten egg smell)

3) filter your intake

4) constant air movement... add a fan or 2 after treatment

5) keep your RH in the 50-60% range and dont crowd your plants together


Powdery mildew is systemic...if you can see the pm on your plant... its in your plant... thats why it always returns.

Any clones or starts taken from this plant will have pm...treat the baby with eagle20 once rooted

If your in flower... use 3% h202 (hydrogen peroxide) 1/3 cup mixed in a 32oz water spray bottle...respray every 3-4 days until harvest
 

DST

Well-Known Member
I guess he needs to fight it with his current grow to get through best he can. But the goal should definitely be erradication.

Indeed, - systemic fungacide is required.

Once sorted keep your environment dialled in.

A drop in temps at night is not going to be an issue, it's what happens naturally.

Good luck.
 

kvnbeach

Active Member
2012-12-20_07-05-18_904.jpg2012-12-20_07-05-45_781.jpg2012-12-20_07-06-13_847.jpg2012-12-21_13-40-39_59.jpg2012-12-21_13-40-48_464.jpgI wanted u guys to see what I have going on

I think I will always battle PM, because of my enviroment. My shit is not sealed, I would never bring air in from the outside. I am in my garage. This is a cheap grow, no filters, no co2 burner. I have spent maybe a $1000 in the last year. Most of everything I have was given to me. I was injured on the job several years ago, the state found me employable as a parking lot attendant, I said fine, I will sell drugs to your children then! So I have spent the last year learning, still learning, how to grow marijuana. It is now legal to possess 1 ounce of marijuana, but it is illegal to sell it. So unless u are like me and have an MMJ card, u are fucked!

Back to the grow. I do not suck air from the outside as it is probally in the 75%-90%RH. I live 15mi. N. of Seattle, in what is called a convergence zone, not considering the fact that I live in the mountains in the middle of a forest. So ther are things here I will have to just deal with. As I said, I am broke and use a lot of home remedies. Like for dirt, 32qt bag of MG Organic 10-5-5($7.00), 32 qt bag of manure 1.5-1.5-1.5($4.00), perlite lots of perlite. A $20 bag of perlite will last me a year. I buy the small bottles of Adv. Grow and Bloom 32oz. I have had the same bottles for 13 months. Although, now my flower room is requiring 4 gallons of water/feeding. They used to only take 2 gallons. This because I have added a plant(7g pot).

Also, this is a perpetual grow. It will never stop. So some preventative plans. I vacuum the room everday. This keeps spider mites away and other pests. Give pest time and they will infiltrate. The other is, to continue to spray with neem oil and soap. The soap allows the neem oil to penetrate the leaf and kills the mold. Plus the oil envelopes the mold spores, and kills them. Now, from what I know about h2o2, it removes, but does not kill the spores. So the spores fall off the leaf down onto other leaves and into the dirt. I havent tried milk, but I have reseached it. The enzymes kills the spores, but can cause other mold just like h2o2. I really believe in the power of the Neem tree!
 

kvnbeach

Active Member
I have used h2o2 before during flower, was not happy with the results. With neem oil, I spray once maybe twice a week with neem. h2o2 was an everyday thing!
 
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