How plants grow

Right after I posted this I came very close to wrecking my foot when a pulled a power cord that sent HPS ballast free falling towards my bare feet in my grow room. From about 6' that would have been very much bad. Missed my foot by ~inch from where it initially impacted. Was just test fitting stuff so nothing was secured. With any luck will be moving to 300W actual or better LED and it can't happen soon enough.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Right after I posted this I came very close to wrecking my foot when a pulled a power cord that sent HPS ballast free falling towards my bare feet in my grow room. From about 6' that would have been very much bad. Missed my foot by ~inch from where it initially impacted. Was just test fitting stuff so nothing was secured. With any luck will be moving to 300W actual or better LED and it can't happen soon enough.
What's a 300W or better LED?
 

go go kid

Well-Known Member
Right after I posted this I came very close to wrecking my foot when a pulled a power cord that sent HPS ballast free falling towards my bare feet in my grow room. From about 6' that would have been very much bad. Missed my foot by ~inch from where it initially impacted. Was just test fitting stuff so nothing was secured. With any luck will be moving to 300W actual or better LED and it can't happen soon enough.
you realy should cable tie your light cables up, not enough so they cant move, but enough to stop that sort of thing happening
 
you realy should cable tie your light cables up, not enough so they cant move, but enough to stop that sort of thing happening
I was just mocking up the layout and it was on a dusty bowed wooden shelf, that dates to 1974. I thought at the time the cable was detached but I was clearly mistaken. I'm a former IT guy by profession, in the final layout the cable management will be neat and flexible and stuff like that will be secured.

I may not even end up needing that light. I plan using a AeroGarder 45W grow light for the seed starting early veg phase. That little panel is perfect for that job. Just depends on how well the seedling take off. Best case I have the new light within 4 weeks. Kicking it old school is the fall back plan.
 

Southernontariogrower

Well-Known Member
So maybe we should acidify our girls for last weeks of flower? I ran a grow at 2.4 ph to 3.4 ph. Ph pen was stored dry and as 3 points high in readings. Not a green leaf in tent. Yellow and necro but beautiful buds. End smoke was very good imo. I will lower ph from 6.5 to 5.5 later into flower if l see any slowing of growth or might just to see if growth will pick up. Shame they dont give ph values. Thinking 4 would be low enough might even cap at 5 as low end, what do you think?
 
Did you look over the full paper? I don't speak that langauage on this subject. I did see some things about the Ph though when I scanned through it.

 

go go kid

Well-Known Member
I was just mocking up the layout and it was on a dusty bowed wooden shelf, that dates to 1974. I thought at the time the cable was detached but I was clearly mistaken. I'm a former IT guy by profession, in the final layout the cable management will be neat and flexible and stuff like that will be secured.

I may not even end up needing that light. I plan using a AeroGarder 45W grow light for the seed starting early veg phase. That little panel is perfect for that job. Just depends on how well the seedling take off. Best case I have the new light within 4 weeks. Kicking it old school is the fall back plan.
you wont be disapointed, my aerocloner does wonders with seed germinating and cloneing when used with root riot cubes
 

go go kid

Well-Known Member
im assuming the plant will automaticly produce the correct ph, in this case acidity for the job. no need to lower the ph
 

Riddick65

Member
I didn't read the whole paper, but i did scan it well, and the only mentions of ph i saw were not in reference to the growing medium but in reference to the different chemicals used to test the samples they took for analysis.
 
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