How to forever eradicate root aphids in under an hour

purklize

Active Member
I'm really surprised that no one else has thought of this... there's an easy solution to root aphids in DWC.

I fought these bastards in soil for months and couldn't ever get rid of them entirely. I tried MANY methods of control, including strategic use of tanglefoot, diatomaceous earth, etc. I wasn't willing to resort to chemical pesticides because of toxicity issues, and the fact they linger in the plant for years. The reason they survive organic pesticides is because there's little air pockets in the soil where a few inevitably survive (even if you dunk for an hour!). There's no way around this.

So, finally I thought of a way to get rid of them... I switched to DWC. After a week or two they started attacking the roots as usual, hundreds if not thousands of them on one plant alone. Horrible.

I filled a 5 gallon bucket with soapy water and a teaspoon of rosemary oil, mixed it up with a whisk (it's the best way, otherwise you splash everywhere). Then I took the plant, removed the air line and air stone, and dropped it in the soapy/rosemary water. It is VERY important that this soapy water is NOT aerated. The point is to suffocate the bugs. The soapy water needs to be above the hydroton, the hydroton should be floating.

I let the plant sit there like this for 30 minutes - one lone root aphid tried to climb on a floating hydroton pellet which rolled over and dunked it back in the water, never to reappear... then I washed the roots off, hooked up the air stone again and dropped it in a clean bucket with freshly mixed nutes.

Now, the thing is, root aphids frequently sprout wings and fly high up into the plant. Wingless ones also climb up the stem into the plant. So what you want to do to prevent this is to smear tanglefoot around the stem of the plant. Nothing can walk through that, they all get stuck and die, it is the stickiest substance I have ever encountered by far. If you get tanglefoot on you and need to remove it, the only way is to rub it with mineral oil, and then wash off with hot soapy water. No amount of soapy water alone will ever remove it, trust me lol. If you're ever pissed at someone smear some on their doorknob.

The tanglefoot will keep the crawlers from climbing back down the stem, but you still have flyers which can fly and land on the hydroton and lay live babies asexually (it only takes one to infest your plant!). To prevent this, get two plastic grocery bags and cut flat circles of plastic the size of your bucket's lid. In each circle, cut a long slit in the center and slide this over the plant. Put them on the plant so that the slits are 90 degrees rotated from each other, this way bugs can't climb through the slit. Then tape this down on the lid. Now the bastards can't back in! They seem to only survive a day or two outside of the root zone.

Eradicating them was very quick, cheap, and easy using this method. I know the pain of fighting these, it's absolutely awful, and I hope this puts an end to the suffering for at least all us DWC growers.

:leaf:
 

purklize

Active Member
One point of clarification: the water you drown the root aphids in should be around 70F. Don't use ice cold water, it will slow the metabolism of the root aphids and may allow some to survive suffocation. People that fall into Lake Superior (it never goes over 40F) can actually survive up to 30 minutes without air, while in the Gulf you're gone in less than 5.

image.jpg

This image is of the plastic circles you cut out of the grocery bags, and the slits in the center. The green line is the stem of the plant. You take the two on the left, overlay them, and you get the one on the right.
 

Tattoodgirl

Member
Old thread but I was wondering if I could use hot pepper/garlic dumped through the net pots to soak the roots from the top down. I don't really have a place to rinse the roots after using soap on them so for now cannot try that. Can I add it to the bucket as well. Maybe add some rosemary to the pepper mix and dump it in? I used peroxide in the buckets which seemed to help but do not want to do that too often. Also sprayed foliar with peroxide, touch of alcohol and soap as I have spider mites too. I also have to Wonder Woman almost done in flower that have mites and I don't know what, if anything to spray them with so I know they are reinfecting my pineapple and afghan. No webs on WW but can see the mites. Been trimming leaves like crazy trying to keep them down until I can cut
 

Jslimeee

New Member
I've tried everything for root aphids. Very little works. The typical grow store pesticides don't do anything. You can see results with synthetic pesticides from a farming retailer but those are not ideal to use in the long run. Assail acetamipride very well known for cherry maggot and aphids. Kills grasshoppers in 2 seconds after 5 days from application.

Bug b gone pyrethrum sprays and dunks work well for a knock down but will fry your roots at the usual dilution.

I've found that just ordinary dish soap dawn free and gentle or lemon sunlight at 5-10ml per litre makes a very effective insecticide spray. Works on contact. Spray after ever water or every other day. Insects have a wax and the soap removes that wax and they dry out and die. At first I was using 5ml per litre neem oil and 5m per light soap to emulsify the neem and I was seeing kick ass results on all my insect promblems root aphids and mites. After awhile I suspected the soap was doing a lot of the work and I'm using just the soap after a few neem applications. I would still use neem.

Try to use soap and neem sprays before week 3 flower never after. Especially neem oil. Dunk all cutting pre planting in a pyrethrum mix for 30 seconds including roots mass. Test on one plant for damaging, stress, root burn or leaf curl. Regardless of damaging effects the pyrethrum dunk on cuttings the dunk will save you more trouble then a couple days for the plants to bounce back.

In my rdwc setup I just add 5-10ml per litre of lemon sunlight right into my res and the air stones makes the soap foam up through the net pot and hydroton and it kills the root aphids effectively. Like a dishwasher or washing machine overflowing the crazy foaming soap coats the aphids and hydroton pretty uniformal. This kills a lot and definitely hurts them, they go from running very fast to barley walking. I usually only have a small population I almost can't even find them but pre soap I'll find 10 on a net pot looking hard after soaping I won't find any.

I'm also doing this in soil. 200ml lemon sunlight per 50gal barrel. I can't check as well in soil as in the rdwc but I'm seeing healthy plants from cuttings I know were infected.

Also root aphids are smart and very very tiny in their first infant stage. When you dig through the soil they stop moving for 5mins making it impossible to see them resulting in a grower never knowing they have them. In cloning trays you can see them well when you grab the tray and shake it around a bit they stop moving and curl up and tuck there legs in and get even smaller and harder to see. When they do this the white aphid against the black cloning tray can almost go invisible.

Thanks OP. First thread I've read that mentions soap as an insecticide. I agree 100%

Also look into broad mites and russet mites.
 
Last edited:

Dr dime

New Member
I'm really surprised that no one else has thought of this... there's an easy solution to root aphids in DWC.

I fought these bastards in soil for months and couldn't ever get rid of them entirely. I tried MANY methods of control, including strategic use of tanglefoot, diatomaceous earth, etc. I wasn't willing to resort to chemical pesticides because of toxicity issues, and the fact they linger in the plant for years. The reason they survive organic pesticides is because there's little air pockets in the soil where a few inevitably survive (even if you dunk for an hour!). There's no way around this.

So, finally I thought of a way to get rid of them... I switched to DWC. After a week or two they started attacking the roots as usual, hundreds if not thousands of them on one plant alone. Horrible.

I filled a 5 gallon bucket with soapy water and a teaspoon of rosemary oil, mixed it up with a whisk (it's the best way, otherwise you splash everywhere). Then I took the plant, removed the air line and air stone, and dropped it in the soapy/rosemary water. It is VERY important that this soapy water is NOT aerated. The point is to suffocate the bugs. The soapy water needs to be above the hydroton, the hydroton should be floating.

I let the plant sit there like this for 30 minutes - one lone root aphid tried to climb on a floating hydroton pellet which rolled over and dunked it back in the water, never to reappear... then I washed the roots off, hooked up the air stone again and dropped it in a clean bucket with freshly mixed nutes.

Now, the thing is, root aphids frequently sprout wings and fly high up into the plant. Wingless ones also climb up the stem into the plant. So what you want to do to prevent this is to smear tanglefoot around the stem of the plant. Nothing can walk through that, they all get stuck and die, it is the stickiest substance I have ever encountered by far. If you get tanglefoot on you and need to remove it, the only way is to rub it with mineral oil, and then wash off with hot soapy water. No amount of soapy water alone will ever remove it, trust me lol. If you're ever pissed at someone smear some on their doorknob.

The tanglefoot will keep the crawlers from climbing back down the stem, but you still have flyers which can fly and land on the hydroton and lay live babies asexually (it only takes one to infest your plant!). To prevent this, get two plastic grocery bags and cut flat circles of plastic the size of your bucket's lid. In each circle, cut a long slit in the center and slide this over the plant. Put them on the plant so that the slits are 90 degrees rotated from each other, this way bugs can't climb through the slit. Then tape this down on the lid. Now the bastards can't back in! They seem to only survive a day or two outside of the root zone.

Eradicating them was very quick, cheap, and easy using this method. I know the pain of fighting these, it's absolutely awful, and I hope this puts an end to the suffering for at least all us DWC growers.

:leaf:
This worked like a charm for me. I didnt do the bags over the top either. Just did a neem oil drench on top while the soak was happening, cleaned the grow roomand replaced my water in the buckets while i waited. Thank you for saving my crop!
 

mr4tune

Well-Known Member
The only way I ever won against root aphids was scrapping everything and shutting down. I was in coco at the time. Got the little bastards from clones from Vancouver. I dried everything. Even multiple dunks of a few different things. THey always managed to come back. Hats off to anyone that won against them.
 

avillax

Well-Known Member
I'm really surprised that no one else has thought of this... there's an easy solution to root aphids in DWC.

I fought these bastards in soil for months and couldn't ever get rid of them entirely. I tried MANY methods of control, including strategic use of tanglefoot, diatomaceous earth, etc. I wasn't willing to resort to chemical pesticides because of toxicity issues, and the fact they linger in the plant for years. The reason they survive organic pesticides is because there's little air pockets in the soil where a few inevitably survive (even if you dunk for an hour!). There's no way around this.

So, finally I thought of a way to get rid of them... I switched to DWC. After a week or two they started attacking the roots as usual, hundreds if not thousands of them on one plant alone. Horrible.

I filled a 5 gallon bucket with soapy water and a teaspoon of rosemary oil, mixed it up with a whisk (it's the best way, otherwise you splash everywhere). Then I took the plant, removed the air line and air stone, and dropped it in the soapy/rosemary water. It is VERY important that this soapy water is NOT aerated. The point is to suffocate the bugs. The soapy water needs to be above the hydroton, the hydroton should be floating.

I let the plant sit there like this for 30 minutes - one lone root aphid tried to climb on a floating hydroton pellet which rolled over and dunked it back in the water, never to reappear... then I washed the roots off, hooked up the air stone again and dropped it in a clean bucket with freshly mixed nutes.

Now, the thing is, root aphids frequently sprout wings and fly high up into the plant. Wingless ones also climb up the stem into the plant. So what you want to do to prevent this is to smear tanglefoot around the stem of the plant. Nothing can walk through that, they all get stuck and die, it is the stickiest substance I have ever encountered by far. If you get tanglefoot on you and need to remove it, the only way is to rub it with mineral oil, and then wash off with hot soapy water. No amount of soapy water alone will ever remove it, trust me lol. If you're ever pissed at someone smear some on their doorknob.

The tanglefoot will keep the crawlers from climbing back down the stem, but you still have flyers which can fly and land on the hydroton and lay live babies asexually (it only takes one to infest your plant!). To prevent this, get two plastic grocery bags and cut flat circles of plastic the size of your bucket's lid. In each circle, cut a long slit in the center and slide this over the plant. Put them on the plant so that the slits are 90 degrees rotated from each other, this way bugs can't climb through the slit. Then tape this down on the lid. Now the bastards can't back in! They seem to only survive a day or two outside of the root zone.

Eradicating them was very quick, cheap, and easy using this method. I know the pain of fighting these, it's absolutely awful, and I hope this puts an end to the suffering for at least all us DWC growers.

:leaf:
Old thread but I will try this tomorrow. I don't have rosemary oil but I have a massaging oil I brought from Nepal. Not sure what's in it but for sure it smells like rosemary and natural herbs.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Imidacloprid works like a charm BUT don't use it outdoors because it's bad for the bees.
 

KhanTheOG

Active Member
I've found that just ordinary dish soap dawn free and gentle or lemon sunlight at 5-10ml per litre makes a very effective insecticide spray. Works on contact. Spray after ever water or every other day. Insects have a wax and the soap removes that wax and they dry out and die. At first I was using 5ml per litre neem oil and 5m per light soap to emulsify the neem and I was seeing kick ass results on all my insect promblems root aphids and mites. After awhile I suspected the soap was doing a lot of the work and I'm using just the soap after a few neem applications. I would still use neem.

Try to use soap and neem sprays before week 3 flower never after. Especially neem oil. Dunk all cutting pre planting in a pyrethrum mix for 30 seconds including roots mass. Test on one plant for damaging, stress, root burn or leaf curl. Regardless of damaging effects the pyrethrum dunk on cuttings the dunk will save you more trouble then a couple days for the plants to bounce back.
Will a dunk for 30 minutes in dawn dish liquid harm the roots?
 
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