How to have a perfect indoor organic soil grow...every time.

MajorCoco

Well-Known Member
It's been a while since I posted on this forum, and it's funny how a lot of the posts I'm seeing as I'm looking around are talking about some of the same old things...the same old problems. I used to have a lot of the same issues too when I started out...

So...I wanted to share with everyone my "secret to success" with soil grows. Guaranteed great results every time, or your money back!! :) depending on you maintaining suitable lighting, ventilation, humidity, watering regime and temperature conditions. Results may vary .

1. You need a big enough container for your plant to thrive through-out the flowering period!!!! I think this is the single biggest mistake you can make with a soil grow. Not using a big enough container. If you want guaranteed results use something like a smartpot (fabric pots) as your "last container" and make it a big one. My 5 ft plant will need nothing but water until harvest, and is in a fabric container which is 35cm wide and 25cm deep (that's the soil depth).
2. Use any basic potting compost as the base (levingtons works well), mixed with worm-castings which you can easily buy online now (use around a 75:25 to 85:15 ratio depending on how potent the wormcastings are). Add 5% perlite if your soil feels heavy....but most peat substitute these days should drain pretty well without it. Never use garden soil unless it's good sandy loam...and you know what loam is :)
3. You don't need anything else.....as long as the wormcasting is good quality it will provide everything your ladies need from veg right through to harvest.
4. Don't over-water....ever!! Lift the pot to feel the weight when she's small, and don't water until she's basically parched but not wilting! Always start in a small pot but move up to a bigger pot soon (within ~2-5 days) after you need to start watering her every day.

That's basically it. The only time my soil grows have ever really failed or had problems in the past is when I was using containers that (in hindsight) just weren't big enough. I have used the same basic soil mix mentioned above in every soil grow I've done. So only the size of the containers has changed and suddenly my problems with weird coloured leaf spots and "nitrogen deficiency that somehow still looks like nute burn" have vanished!!

When I first started growing with soil I found myself adding all sort of stuff later in the grow to try to "fix"plants that were showing symptoms of a variety of problems, which invariably ended up making things worse. The singular thing I found I needed to stops those problems happening completely was to change to using significantly bigger containers, even if that means re-potting 2 or 3 weeks into flowering.

Now I only ever feed my girls with pure water. No nutes, no kelp and seaweed, no bonemeal, no guano, no blood and fish guts :roll:, no flushing, no nonsense....just water (filtered to take a little of the limescale hardness out, but even that isn't really necessary) combined with the naturally good stuff already in the wormcastings.

If you start seeing the any yellowing of lower leaves too early in flowering then just top-dress with a few more good handfuls of wormcastings, and water it in. Nothing else required. Here's my latest soil grown lady. The leaves closest to the light have been suffering with the heat recently, but she's still looking basically perfect. I'll try and add a wider shot later...the light is off right now.
DSC00752.JPG
 

Chazz2020

Well-Known Member
It's been a while since I posted on this forum, and it's funny how a lot of the posts I'm seeing as I'm looking around are talking about some of the same old things...the same old problems. I used to have a lot of the same issues too when I started out...

So...I wanted to share with everyone my "secret to success" with soil grows. Guaranteed great results every time, or your money back!! :) depending on you maintaining suitable lighting, ventilation, humidity, watering regime and temperature conditions. Results may vary .

1. You need a big enough container for your plant to thrive through-out the flowering period!!!! I think this is the single biggest mistake you can make with a soil grow. Not using a big enough container. If you want guaranteed results use something like a smartpot (fabric pots) as your "last container" and make it a big one. My 5 ft plant will need nothing but water until harvest, and is in a fabric container which is 35cm wide and 25cm deep (that's the soil depth).
2. Use any basic potting compost as the base (levingtons works well), mixed with worm-castings which you can easily buy online now (use around a 75:25 to 85:15 ratio depending on how potent the wormcastings are). Add 5% perlite if your soil feels heavy....but most peat substitute these days should drain pretty well without it. Never use garden soil unless it's good sandy loam...and you know what loam is :)
3. You don't need anything else.....as long as the wormcasting is good quality it will provide everything your ladies need from veg right through to harvest.
4. Don't over-water....ever!! Lift the pot to feel the weight when she's small, and don't water until she's basically parched but not wilting! Always start in a small pot but move up to a bigger pot soon (within ~2-5 days) after you need to start watering her every day.

That's basically it. The only time my soil grows have ever really failed or had problems in the past is when I was using containers that (in hindsight) just weren't big enough. I have used the same basic soil mix mentioned above in every soil grow I've done. So only the size of the containers has changed and suddenly my problems with weird coloured leaf spots and "nitrogen deficiency that somehow still looks like nute burn" have vanished!!

When I first started growing with soil I found myself adding all sort of stuff later in the grow to try to "fix"plants that were showing symptoms of a variety of problems, which invariably ended up making things worse. The singular thing I found I needed to stops those problems happening completely was to change to using significantly bigger containers, even if that means re-potting 2 or 3 weeks into flowering.

Now I only ever feed my girls with pure water. No nutes, no kelp and seaweed, no bonemeal, no guano, no blood and fish guts :roll:, no flushing, no nonsense....just water (filtered to take a little of the limescale hardness out, but even that isn't really necessary) combined with the naturally good stuff already in the wormcastings.

If you start seeing the any yellowing of lower leaves too early in flowering then just top-dress with a few more good handfuls of wormcastings, and water it in. Nothing else required. Here's my latest soil grown lady. The leaves closest to the light have been suffering with the heat recently, but she's still looking basically perfect. I'll try and add a wider shot later...the light is off right now.
View attachment 4662745
Ok I have a question for u I’m growing in some pro mix organics with some ewc added and some happy frog 7-4-5 I transplanted her on august 28th into a 5 gallon pot with some promix and some ewc I did not add any fertilizer do you think I could get by with just top dressing with some ewc and not use the fox farm trio I bought I’m just trying to keep it simple and produce quality weed
 

Dapper_Dillinger

Well-Known Member
It's been a while since I posted on this forum, and it's funny how a lot of the posts I'm seeing as I'm looking around are talking about some of the same old things...the same old problems. I used to have a lot of the same issues too when I started out...

So...I wanted to share with everyone my "secret to success" with soil grows. Guaranteed great results every time, or your money back!! :) depending on you maintaining suitable lighting, ventilation, humidity, watering regime and temperature conditions. Results may vary .

1. You need a big enough container for your plant to thrive through-out the flowering period!!!! I think this is the single biggest mistake you can make with a soil grow. Not using a big enough container. If you want guaranteed results use something like a smartpot (fabric pots) as your "last container" and make it a big one. My 5 ft plant will need nothing but water until harvest, and is in a fabric container which is 35cm wide and 25cm deep (that's the soil depth).
2. Use any basic potting compost as the base (levingtons works well), mixed with worm-castings which you can easily buy online now (use around a 75:25 to 85:15 ratio depending on how potent the wormcastings are). Add 5% perlite if your soil feels heavy....but most peat substitute these days should drain pretty well without it. Never use garden soil unless it's good sandy loam...and you know what loam is :)
3. You don't need anything else.....as long as the wormcasting is good quality it will provide everything your ladies need from veg right through to harvest.
4. Don't over-water....ever!! Lift the pot to feel the weight when she's small, and don't water until she's basically parched but not wilting! Always start in a small pot but move up to a bigger pot soon (within ~2-5 days) after you need to start watering her every day.

That's basically it. The only time my soil grows have ever really failed or had problems in the past is when I was using containers that (in hindsight) just weren't big enough. I have used the same basic soil mix mentioned above in every soil grow I've done. So only the size of the containers has changed and suddenly my problems with weird coloured leaf spots and "nitrogen deficiency that somehow still looks like nute burn" have vanished!!

When I first started growing with soil I found myself adding all sort of stuff later in the grow to try to "fix"plants that were showing symptoms of a variety of problems, which invariably ended up making things worse. The singular thing I found I needed to stops those problems happening completely was to change to using significantly bigger containers, even if that means re-potting 2 or 3 weeks into flowering.

Now I only ever feed my girls with pure water. No nutes, no kelp and seaweed, no bonemeal, no guano, no blood and fish guts :roll:, no flushing, no nonsense....just water (filtered to take a little of the limescale hardness out, but even that isn't really necessary) combined with the naturally good stuff already in the wormcastings.

If you start seeing the any yellowing of lower leaves too early in flowering then just top-dress with a few more good handfuls of wormcastings, and water it in. Nothing else required. Here's my latest soil grown lady. The leaves closest to the light have been suffering with the heat recently, but she's still looking basically perfect. I'll try and add a wider shot later...the light is off right now.
View attachment 4662745
Bro is 3 gal fabric pot big enough to flower my girl? Shes is ffof mixed 50/50 with happyfrog, I just top feed more ffof on the 4th week of veg, I dont have a bigger pot... but will my yield or quality be less of I dont use nutes ? I have some big bloom I was gonna use for flower I think it's made with ewc anyways or I was gonna buy some Jack's or dr earth flower girl... what should I do? I could buy a bag of ewc and top dress with that for flower too
 

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HydroKid239

Well-Known Member
It's been a while since I posted on this forum, and it's funny how a lot of the posts I'm seeing as I'm looking around are talking about some of the same old things...the same old problems. I used to have a lot of the same issues too when I started out...

So...I wanted to share with everyone my "secret to success" with soil grows. Guaranteed great results every time, or your money back!! :) depending on you maintaining suitable lighting, ventilation, humidity, watering regime and temperature conditions. Results may vary .

1. You need a big enough container for your plant to thrive through-out the flowering period!!!! I think this is the single biggest mistake you can make with a soil grow. Not using a big enough container. If you want guaranteed results use something like a smartpot (fabric pots) as your "last container" and make it a big one. My 5 ft plant will need nothing but water until harvest, and is in a fabric container which is 35cm wide and 25cm deep (that's the soil depth).
2. Use any basic potting compost as the base (levingtons works well), mixed with worm-castings which you can easily buy online now (use around a 75:25 to 85:15 ratio depending on how potent the wormcastings are). Add 5% perlite if your soil feels heavy....but most peat substitute these days should drain pretty well without it. Never use garden soil unless it's good sandy loam...and you know what loam is :)
3. You don't need anything else.....as long as the wormcasting is good quality it will provide everything your ladies need from veg right through to harvest.
4. Don't over-water....ever!! Lift the pot to feel the weight when she's small, and don't water until she's basically parched but not wilting! Always start in a small pot but move up to a bigger pot soon (within ~2-5 days) after you need to start watering her every day.

That's basically it. The only time my soil grows have ever really failed or had problems in the past is when I was using containers that (in hindsight) just weren't big enough. I have used the same basic soil mix mentioned above in every soil grow I've done. So only the size of the containers has changed and suddenly my problems with weird coloured leaf spots and "nitrogen deficiency that somehow still looks like nute burn" have vanished!!

When I first started growing with soil I found myself adding all sort of stuff later in the grow to try to "fix"plants that were showing symptoms of a variety of problems, which invariably ended up making things worse. The singular thing I found I needed to stops those problems happening completely was to change to using significantly bigger containers, even if that means re-potting 2 or 3 weeks into flowering.

Now I only ever feed my girls with pure water. No nutes, no kelp and seaweed, no bonemeal, no guano, no blood and fish guts :roll:, no flushing, no nonsense....just water (filtered to take a little of the limescale hardness out, but even that isn't really necessary) combined with the naturally good stuff already in the wormcastings.

If you start seeing the any yellowing of lower leaves too early in flowering then just top-dress with a few more good handfuls of wormcastings, and water it in. Nothing else required. Here's my latest soil grown lady. The leaves closest to the light have been suffering with the heat recently, but she's still looking basically perfect. I'll try and add a wider shot later...the light is off right now.
View attachment 4662745

Thank's for the post. I'll keep an eye on it as I'd like to go simple my next round. But I still wanna bring out the best. (The best I can)
 

HydroKid239

Well-Known Member
Bro is 3 gal fabric pot big enough to flower my girl? Shes is ffof mixed 50/50 with happyfrog, I just top feed more ffof on the 4th week of veg, I dont have a bigger pot... but will my yield or quality be less of I dont use nutes ? I have some big bloom I was gonna use for flower I think it's made with ewc anyways or I was gonna buy some Jack's or dr earth flower girl... what should I do? I could buy a bag of ewc and top dress with that for flower too
My lady is in a 3 gal pot and she's pretty spread out after all the training. I'm going 5 gal next tho since I was able to keep this 3 gal pot under 3ft tall.. but she's 3 ft long and 2 ft wide.
 

Dapper_Dillinger

Well-Known Member
My lady is in a 3 gal pot and she's pretty spread out after all the training. I'm going 5 gal next tho since I was able to keep this 3 gal pot under 3ft tall.. but she's 3 ft long and 2 ft wide.
That's the exact size I need my girl to be. Because my light is only good for flowering less than 2 foot x 1.5 foot it's the Mars hydro 600w led it can veg an area of 2.5 foot x2. are. I been putting on new wires every day and I already got her bent over twice ... soon as I figure out if I'm gonna use nutes or not I'm gonna flip it probably within a week
 

HydroKid239

Well-Known Member
That's the exact size I need my girl to be. Because my light is only good for flowering less than 2 foot x 1.5 foot it's the Mars hydro 600w led it can veg an area of 2.5 foot x2. are. I been putting on new wires every day and I already got her bent over twice ... soon as I figure out if I'm gonna use nutes or not I'm gonna flip it probably within a week
Sorry for the blurple but thats how I had mine back in last june/early july. Just tied her main stem down and topped her. She's still tied down. I never let up, only adjusted as her main stem grew. Now the stem goes up from the soil abut 7 inches and she's another 27 inches horizontal. Her structure is like a split open rib cage. Colas all around the perimeter and lots of nuggets throughout the center.
 

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MajorCoco

Well-Known Member
Ok I have a question for u I’m growing in some pro mix organics with some ewc added and some happy frog 7-4-5 I transplanted her on august 28th into a 5 gallon pot with some promix and some ewc I did not add any fertilizer do you think I could get by with just top dressing with some ewc and not use the fox farm trio I bought I’m just trying to keep it simple and produce quality weed
Ha. That's quite a mix. Ultimately, I can't tell you how hot that mix is. But it sounds like it should be able to take you through to harvest...if there's enough of it for the size she gets after vegging and stretch.

If you have good light and temps, with some air circulation, then you should keep watering until you see any leaf (apart from the bottom cotyledons and maybe the first and second lowest small fans) which isn't a nice deep-ish green colour. If she's staying green and growing consistently on just water then just water is likely to be all she needs.

It is always better to add less. Damage from nutrient burn is quick and permanent. Damage from nitrogen def is slow moving, easily fixed, and not a huge hit to yield if caught early enough.
 

MajorCoco

Well-Known Member
Bro is 3 gal fabric pot big enough to flower my girl? Shes is ffof mixed 50/50 with happyfrog, I just top feed more ffof on the 4th week of veg, I dont have a bigger pot... but will my yield or quality be less of I dont use nutes ? I have some big bloom I was gonna use for flower I think it's made with ewc anyways or I was gonna buy some Jack's or dr earth flower girl... what should I do? I could buy a bag of ewc and top dress with that for flower too
That looks good to me. You've still got space to top-up too, which help.

My experience is that inexperienced soil growers lose more yield by over-feeding (or through overheating and overwatering) than they would if they had stuck to plain water, or mostly plain water. My previous mostly-water grows have all yielded well. Not as well as hydro, but that is always going to be the case.

The quality will be identical between any 2 plants in soil which make it through to harvest unscathed, regardless of how many nutes you pumped into them or otherwise, since that is genetic.
 

Chazz2020

Well-Known Member
Ha. That's quite a mix. Ultimately, I can't tell you how hot that mix is. But it sounds like it should be able to take you through to harvest...if there's enough of it for the size she gets after vegging and stretch.

If you have good light and temps, with some air circulation, then you should keep watering until you see any leaf (apart from the bottom cotyledons and maybe the first and second lowest small fans) which isn't a nice deep-ish green colour. If she's staying green and growing consistently on just water then just water is likely to be all she needs.

It is always better to add less. Damage from nutrient burn is quick and permanent. Damage from nitrogen def is slow moving, easily fixed, and not a huge hit to yield if caught early enough.
here’s my lady I flipped to 12-12 today do you think she looks ok
 

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Chazz2020

Well-Known Member
Ha. That's quite a mix. Ultimately, I can't tell you how hot that mix is. But it sounds like it should be able to take you through to harvest...if there's enough of it for the size she gets after vegging and stretch.

If you have good light and temps, with some air circulation, then you should keep watering until you see any leaf (apart from the bottom cotyledons and maybe the first and second lowest small fans) which isn't a nice deep-ish green colour. If she's staying green and growing consistently on just water then just water is likely to be all she needs.

It is always better to add less. Damage from nutrient burn is quick and permanent. Damage from nitrogen def is slow moving, easily fixed, and not a huge hit to yield if caught early enough.
[/QUOTE/ ok simple enough I will just water and watch for signs she fading when I checked my runoff Monday it was 757 is that good
 

MajorCoco

Well-Known Member
I dunno. You don't really need to worry about EC in soil if you're only feeding water. So I don't even have an ec meter. It could probably give you an idea of how hot your mix is and when it's beginning to run dry. Maybe just monitor if over a week and see how she does and if the EC starts dropping too fast then you might need a rethink.

The pH of the water you put in is important of course, but as long as the soil isn't too acid or base, and your tap water is within the good range you shouldn't even need to worry about the pH of runoff. Worth checking anyway though if it's the first time you've used a particular soil mix though, just to check it's ok.
 

Chazz2020

Well-Known Member
I dunno. You don't really need to worry about EC in soil if you're only feeding water. So I don't even have an ec meter. It could probably give you an idea of how hot your mix is and when it's beginning to run dry. Maybe just monitor if over a week and see how she does and if the EC starts dropping too fast then you might need a rethink.

The pH of the water you put in is important of course, but as long as the soil isn't too acid or base, and your tap water is within the good range you shouldn't even need to worry about the pH of runoff. Worth checking anyway though if it's the first time you've used a particular soil mix though, just to check it's ok.
Ok I’ll just watch and see I flipped to 12-12 today if she shows in signs of needing nutes I will go easy starting at quarter strength
 

Chazz2020

Well-Known Member
I just want some good quality bud this is just a trial and error thing I write everything down so I can go back and see where I went wrong and what’s needs to be corrected
 
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