HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%: " Naturally - no chemicals"

medicalmary said:

I have not had success with pyrethrum bombs. The problem with neem is that it coats the stomata on the underside of the leaves and it make transpiration less efficient. So, if you are using it as your only measure against mites, not only are your plants going to suffer from the mite damage, but they are also going to suffer from the neem. And the neem doesn't even really work all that well. It has to come in contact and coat adult spider mites. The way spider mites take in oxygen is through their exoskeleton. The neem coats them and the suffocate. So it has to be applied every 5 days to kill the new adults. It has little to no effect on eggs. A spidermite can lay 200 eggs in 2 weeks. There are usually thousands of eggs before you figure out what is going on in a large garden. I'm rambling.

mm

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209 Cali closet grower said:

So does pepper spray^^

I use neem, and this harvest was great!When I was using peppers, last harvest, not so good?I had mites, just not as bad after using pepper spray.I was trying to be organic--which neem is, but the pepper was just not working for me.Which after reading this thread, I thought this was the answer to my prayers, but sadly it wasn't? After burning my dick for 3 weeks, I switched to neem, and vicks oil.

As the saying goes''Use what works for you''.




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Dan Kone said:

There is no silver bullet for spider mites. Anyone claiming to have one is full of it.

The way you get rid of spidermites is vigilant spraying of every portion of the plant. Lots of stuff kills spidermites, unless you're going to use something extremely nasty nothing kills the eggs. The only "trick" is spraying thoroughly and often.

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dirtysnowball said:

Bwpz be nice. and please refrain from posting your controversial opinions, it doesn't do any good. i have a lot of opinions too but i'm not going to say them flat out, i just water em down a bit.

also people mighty wash is: water infused with peppers(and garlic). this is just the homemade recipe, they are basically one and the same, except one cost a lot less.

i wouldnt advise spraying your plant with salt though, since salt absorbs h2o... it will suck the water out of your plant and thats not good.

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calibuzz said:

HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%
By Calibuzz - 30 year grower

View attachment 1831939
Cured Clone - see new growth!

You have Spider Mites? YOU HAVE A PROBLEM!!! Unless you are diligent and work hard, the problem will not go away, your crop is doomed as one by one they fail and die.

As a Native American, proud of our heritage and ways in keeping with the environment, I give to you a method that is naturally harmonious, and pure. The method is so benign, you may use this method even during flowering - without a single harm to your precious plants.

The best way is not the easiest by far; to do the perfect job takes comitment - so all you lazy bud heads who want a quick fix: "look elsewhere, or coat your precious medicine with chemicals and poison...and remind me not to smoke your herb."

Editor's note: One will find a bit of cross talk in this thread, and some rude posts. The Editor aplogizes that many have strayed off the central subject and prefer to haze each other. However, one will find many other concerned members with great suggestions and feedback. - calibuzz

"Now then, for all you fervent horticulturists..."

Spider mites are alive; you can make them dead. All life is fragile, but... "how do I kill the mites without hurting my crop?"

I will not use pesticides or harmful chemicals on my plants; thus, I have found an all-natural way to rid the infestations that sometimes occur. Curing your plants takes time and care, but you can rid your babies of the mini-spiders that suck your plant's life's blood.

Spiders have skin-like exoskeletons; the tissues are sensitive to change. Molecules soak though their pours, skin and orifices; thus, what may bother you - a giant living organism - might prove fatal to a spider the size of a pinhead. This is so when using a common group of proteins found in Nature. I will teach you how to naturally and inexpensively rid your plants of the dreaded spider mites.
The Habanera Pepper (sometimes pronounced Habenero) is the key ingredient in pepper spray. Once you make a batch of CALICLEAN you'll see why. One may buy habanera peppers in any vegetable section for about 6 dollars a pound. The peppers are light orange to dark red, and are about the size of a bic lighter when fully mature, most are half that size. Go buy a pound, now!!! If you have mites, time is of the essence.

NOTICE: The spray you make is not harmful to humans (hab peppers are an ingredient in all really good south of the border salsas), but irritating to mucus membranes and soft tissues, it will make you cough - as its like breathing chili powder, so use care.

"GEE, MY PLANT LEAVES ARE DOTTED WITH WHITE SPOTS AND TURNING PALE OR YELLOW."
If you have taken a powerful magnifying glass to the underside of your plant's leaves you will have seen the little off-yellow dots with a brown center that move about slowly over the plant leafs and veins - the mature mites. These big mites leave web-strands like other spiders. Web strands between leaf and stems (as they cross back and forth to new vulnerable leaves), and between leaf serrations are indications of a healthy infestation and big mites on your plants. You may also have seen almost too-hard-to-see little brown dots crawling slowly about. These are the baby mites that will grow into big suckers. You may also have seen groups of little white dots near the central leaf brachiation and the main leaf veins. These are clutches of mite eggs. They will soon hatch and produce up to 80 mites per clutch, per mature mite. You are screwed if you do nothing. But fret not, you can save your plants, and they will recover and thrive - with diligence.

HERE IS WHAT TO DO

Making the Calicleaner

1.) Get a sauce pan - fill with one pint of water - put on lowest flame possible (do not boil !!!).
2.) Chop 4 -5 Habanera peppers fine. Chop open seeds and central membranes, as the power lies there.
3.) Simmer chopped peppers for 20 minutes - making sure not to boil (you will destroy the active proteins).
4.) When you put your head over the pan and the wispy-steam stings your eyes, the Calicleaner is ready.
5.) Pour the Calicleaner through a fine mesh strainer - a little fine grit is OK - let cool in a clean bowl.
6.) Pour room temperature contents in a mister spray bottle. Your are ready to apply.

HOW TO APPLY Calicleaner
1.) Put on gloves, and wear a mask, or at least put a bandana around your nose and mouth.
2.) Turn off all fans - you do not want this spray in your eyes!!!
3.) Spray the bottom of EVERY leaf - starting with the bottom leaves first, work up to the top.
4.) After the bottoms are done, hit the tops and the stems.
5.) Squirt liberally in new leaf pods - tightly wound new leaf growth (the small mites hide there).
6.) Get the heck out of the room till it clears.
7.) Repeat procedure with each plant.
8.) Spray the soil, the pots, and the floor or earth around the area to kill dropping mites and stop migration.
9.) Wash hands with soap and water when complete - the stuff will heat-up skin for 4 hours.
10.) DO NOT WORRY. Though the stuff is lethal to mites, the plants love it.

WHAT’S NEXT??

Congratulations! You have successfully killed the mites that you sprayed - on contact!. Plus, the mites are thwarted in biting again as they get a lethal dose of hot mouth. Your plants should be turning green again with in half a day. Though the leaves are scarred, they will recover and work again - producing vital sugars for growth.

However, you are not done. Some mites will escape the spray, though you have killed 95% of them. Thus, you will have to do the spray again tomorrow. As a matter of fact you will have to spray every 2-3 days till you see no more mites - usually up to two weeks. SOME EGGS WILL HATCH!!! Thus a week after the first spray, do a super job again, the baby mites are likely out and about. Kill 'em right away.

Use your magnifying glass to inspect each plant carefully, when nothing moves and you see no more webs, your plants are clear. YEAH!!

Additional precautions: make sure your containers and pots do not touch, mites migrate. Clean your floors and equipment so live mites do not return (spray them down with Caliclean). Since no person can kill every living mite in their situation, eternal diligence is now part of the equation. One mite may turn into a million in a month.

Other helpful hints: wash your plants with clean water spray between sprayings, this cleans off dead mites and eggs, and refreshes the plant leaf compromised by the vampire sucking mites. Keep the room cool, 78 degrees to 68 degrees if possible during treatment. Mites hate the cold - thus weakened mites will drop dead. If lower leaves are infested with eggs and mites - cut them off! DO NOT LEAVE CUTTINGS NEARBY! Burn or bury your cuttings far away.

Spraying notes: Mites tend to collect where the leaves join at the nexus and overlap. If you can, lay your plants on-end or position upsidedown (be real careful) to make sure all undersides are sprayed. Cut off curled leaves where they collect. If you're a rich person you may make a full pound to ten gallons of water and dunk them - even better!!

The best part of using Calicleaner is you may use it always - even during flowering. As the solution is all natural, no one is harmed but the mites: "Nature to deal with Nature." Your money goes to a farmer not a chemical corporation.

Caliclean works,

Check often; check carefully; your plants will thank you with fine flowering! Be good to your Natural Medicine, and it will be good to you.

Good Luck and best wishes, "How Ni Kan, Megwetch," Peace be with you always,

Calibuzz

View attachment 1831939View attachment 1831941View attachment 1831940

Image one: Cured Clone - see new growth.
Image two: Cured Nursery - all plants mite free after caliclean!
Image three: After the Storm - I was out hiking the mountains and witnessed this.

There is hope at the end of every rainbow; don't give up!

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