humidity question

I read a very long post from somebody that said humidity when starting the seedling and vegitative state can help when you boost it up to 70-80 is this true? i spray my little babes about 5 to 7 times a day and the humidity remains around 35 it gos up while im spraying but doesnt last long. i have fan that blows every 30 min on the highest setting but im sure a bunch more sprays and changing the fan to hr off 1/2 hr on could boost humidity. i would like to be sure b4 i try this.
 

ChubbySoap

Well-Known Member
going out on a limb here...
I'm guessing the effects of the humidity on plant growth are directly tied to temperature, air (wind) speed, genetics, and the moisture content of the soil.
tricky question to answer all in one go...

that said, the humidity in several countries associated with fine herb is relatively high and averages about 80%
They also have plants with huge leaves that transpire more water. I imagine root rot is commonplace out that way.

plants i have seen in my native Colorado growing out doors with a humidity ranging from 20 - 40%, very dry imo...but still potent as all hell.
they tend to sport narrow leaves.


IDK...try putting out a tray filled with pebbles (to keep pot out of water) and a bit of water to add humidity to your grow for a cheap start?
 
okay thanks, what i use for pots since they are just seedlings are cardboard like jiffy pots (round) with diameter about 4 in. I do believe i have waterd to much but already so im trying to avoid doing this. they are all siting in a tray. i know the mist spray bottle helps boost humidity but once fan kicks in it drops alot. but you say creating a sort of very shallow reservoir if you will. should help keep humidity? i live in northern areas close to boarder of US and canada its very cold here. but my temp in box doesnt drop below 67 even at night
 

ChubbySoap

Well-Known Member
try running a search on orchid care and pebble trays on the net for a more detailed overview.
Cardboard containers should do well.
more costly routes are automatic reptile mister units and conventional cool mist/hot humidifiers

The trade off/risk is of stagnant water. You will need to change the water often.
If you don't you invite insects, various molds, fungi, and bacteria. A common by-product is a lot of stink and/or allergy problems.
You will require a gravity fed drain off of some kind to prevent it, and need to break down everything for a good old bleach scrubbing a few (or more times) a year.

An easy fix is to just add some hydrogen peroxide to the water whenever there's a problem, or even as a preventative.

It breaks down harmlessly into oxygen and water, and helps keep the water from looking inviting to the nasty things that want to grow in it.
If your plant roots somehow get to it, no problems.




if temp is a concern, a simple reptile heating mat or equivalent can be placed under the tray to aid in evaporation.



 

PeteSwitch

Well-Known Member
Clones root best at 95-100% humidity for the first 2 days with a gradual decline to 85% during the following week. They also root faster when the growing medium is a few degrees warmer than the ambient air temp. A warm substrate increase underground chemical activity, and lower air temps slow transpiration. For best results, keep the rooting medium at 75-80 degrees. Growing medium temps above 85 degrees Fahrenheit will cause cause damage. Keep the air temps 5-10 degrees cooler than the substrate. Misting helps cools foliage and slows transpiration to help traumatized clones retain moisture unavailable from nonexistent roots.
 
okay helpful input from both. im growing from seeds but i hope i can clone in the future i might make a pebble tray in time for now spraying seems to help a good amount but i have to spray alot to keep humidity from droping below 30.
 
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