Hydrogen peroxide and bud rot

obijohn

Well-Known Member
Weathers been warm and sunny, but I'm starting to see bud rot everywhere, whats up with that? I've pulled out the mushy parts, but slight browning is also appearing on the outside of some of the buds. I'd love to let them go a few more weeks, but dunno.

Would a direct application with a q tip of hydrogen peroxide stop or slow the spread, or should I just start taking everything down?
 
Im no expert by any means so i have nothing to contribute to this thread but id love to see a picture for possible future reference. You know preemptive education. :p.
 

1sttimeguy

Well-Known Member
I had the same issue, I cut out the rot and used a torch on the area and sprayed with H2O2... a few days later it was apparent that I had to chop.
 

obijohn

Well-Known Member
I had the same issue, I cut out the rot and used a torch on the area and sprayed with H2O2... a few days later it was apparent that I had to chop.
So it did nothing far as stopping it, right?

No budworms for me, used bt a few times over the past few weeks
 

wbd

Well-Known Member
Cut it away and keep an eye on it. It doesn't need to be an urgent matter if you're looking every day and cutting away infections that you can see.

It seems inevitable that once a particular bud is infected, it's a goner. But as long as that bud isn't in direct contact with other buds, it's far from certain that the infection will jump to another bud. I realize there are spores everywhere, but I personally am not finding it hopeless to keep it spreading from bud to bud.

My own research yielded some recommendations for H2O2 (3%) to fight botrytis, but not much. Right now I am putting my money on weekly treatments of Captan fungicide, for which there is ample favorable evidence that it's highly effective in agriculture for controlling rot. I just started using it though, so no personal experience to talk about.

Until this week I was using a copper soap fungicide but how can I prove whether I prevented something or not? It sure didn't prevent it 100%, that's for sure, but I have no idea if my problems would be worse without it or not.

Good luck.
 

1sttimeguy

Well-Known Member
There were no bud worms. I'm in a coastal region and the humidity is what did it.

The treatment slowed the rot down considerably but rot appeared in new budsites every time I checked it. The treatment was effective the kicker was when it came time to dry, a slow spread occured during the hang time in the buds adjacent to where I cut out the damaged flower.

For example I would cut out the middle 1/3 of a cola (including some of the healthy bud) I then used a BBQ lighted to torch the area (and the area immediately above and below the removed flower) until it blackened (UGLY). I then hit it with H2O2 (full strength 3%) on the torched areas including the stem.

The 5 days after the treatment it seemed to have worked and the remaining 2/3 of the cola continued to swell with no signs of new mould. It was after 7-8 days of drying that I found new mould in that 2/3 of remaining cola. I SEEEMED to only spread up the cola, not down. Plant was dried upright.
 

Laney

Well-Known Member
Im no expert by any means so i have nothing to contribute to this thread but id love to see a picture for possible future reference. You know preemptive education. :p.
Me, too! I asked for pictures in another thread but no luck.
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
When I got budrot it was without doubt caused by me misting with water. another time when I first started it was due to my extractor fan packing in and the tent got real humid.

Each time, moisture was the cause.
 

knnthc93

Well-Known Member
I found some bud rot on my plant so I harvested it. I am now worried about the rest of the drying buds to start rotting. Possible?
 

obijohn

Well-Known Member
I just helped my friend trim some buds with rot. When we opened the buds up, guess what was causing the rot? Worm poop. They had been sprayed with bt, so no living worms were in there, they crawled out and fell on the ground and died several days ago.

We applied some hydrogen peroxide with a que tip on buds we didn't harvest, we simply cut out the rotten part and applied. We will see how that works, we'd like to let things mature more if we can
 

obijohn

Well-Known Member
I found some bud rot on my plant so I harvested it. I am now worried about the rest of the drying buds to start rotting. Possible?
In the past, I found if I cut all the rotten parts out when hanging to dry, I didn't have an issue. But in my area, even hanging in a closed closet, things are dry enough to jar within three days.
 

5150

Well-Known Member
Someone wanted pics? This is from another thread I posted. You said no bud worms. Did you dig in those buds good? Is the rot on the stem nodes like pic below? Or inside the buds away from the nodes?

You will see the little dead leaf sticking out of the bud. The leaf will droop down and turn brown and skinny. Follow the leaf stem down to the bud stem and you will see mold. How early you see the dead leaf is how bad the mold will be. Sometimes you will lose just one node section. Sometimes you lose the whole bud or section. Looks for these leafs for both worm mold or just bud rot. What I have noticed is if the dead leaf you spot is still green the mold patch is new. (like in first two pics below) But if the leaf you spot is grey or brown and curled bad. It's a few days old spot and may have spread. (like 3rd pic)







These pics show bud rot or some kind of stem mold that I am fighting now.


If a guy wanted to he could cutthis section out of the plant. Cut out any mold you can see. Then pen torch the area. I have saved huge top colas doing this. (last pics kind of shows end results of torching) Again you got to get it early before the stem rots all the way. If you cut your mold out of a cola IMO you better torch it.



These are the buds that you see cut up in the two pics above. This is when they were on the plant. Shows how good it can hide inside the bud. Notice the brown? A huge factor is how soon you find this and how fast you can cut it out. Pics were at night so not the best. Again the only way to see or spot it is with that single dead leaf.






I can say that dealing with bud rot is better than dealing with bud worms. I say this for if you catch the rot fast it is easy to cut out for it on the node sections. Bud worms just rot right in the middle of the buds.
If you want more info on pen torching so a search of this site for "Stoping Mold with Pen Torch" I have a thread floating in search world.
 
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