Hyper Drive Vegging 24hr flip 18hr flip 12hr

This is a little something I noticed.
When a plant is raised at 24 hr of light for 1 month clone 1.5 from seed then flipped to 18 hrs of light the plants starts the growth spurt stage of budding but never goes into budding after 3 weeks of hyper growth normal vegging growth rates return. At that point if the plant is put into 12 hr of light it will go through a 2nd growth spurt and get pretty big if you are using a 20 gal pot.

So, what your saying is if you keep the plant on edge it thinks it has to grow more and when it comes around to when you want to actually make it bud the plant is huge therefore creating a large yield?

TheWheelman said:

So, what your saying is if you keep the plant on edge it thinks it has to grow more and when it comes around to when you want to actually make it bud the plant is huge therefore creating a large yield?

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Yep she goes and goes but you will need a lot of root room she will grow fast.

i like this... will give it a shot

I'm going to try this out on my grow, good idea

Do you think the amount of time in between switching light cycles would make a huge difference? I mean could I grow on 24/0 for 2 weeks then switch to 18/6 and then to 12/12 the next week. This way I can stay on my grow schedule

burnonedown21 said:

Do you think the amount of time in between switching light cycles would make a huge difference? I mean could I grow on 24/0 for 2 weeks then switch to 18/6 and then to 12/12 the next week. This way I can stay on my grow schedule

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3 WEEKS 3 WEEKS IS THE SHORTEST AMOUNT OF TIME

The plants need at least 3 weeks to set into the light cycle and it takes 2 weeks of the growth spurt plus 1 of regular veg you could go back to 24 hr for this week,(this is what I do). But with only 2 weeks the plant will just start flowering and use the first growth spurt as the primary growth spurt stage....good luck if you need to stay 4 weeks instead of 6 then go 24 hr light

burnonedown21 said:

Do you think the amount of time in between switching light cycles would make a huge difference?

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No. It's a phytochrome trigger, a light sensitive pigment in the red (R) and far red (FR) with a peak around 650nm that controls the flowering response. It's either "on or off".

There is no real value in stair stepping your way from a 20/4 to a 12/12 for most cannabis mutts.

I guess if it feels good, then do it.

UB

fallinghigh said:

This is a little something I noticed.
When a plant is raised at 24 hr of light for 1 month clone 1.5 from seed then flipped to 18 hrs of light the plants starts the growth spurt stage of budding but never goes into budding after 3 weeks of hyper growth normal vegging growth rates return.

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Perhaps you are observing the different phases cannabis goes thru, with the juvenile and pre-adult stage being the most vigorous. On 20/4, my plants just explode with vigor one week after the seedlings pop the surface. A plant must first put down its roots before getting after it.

UB

fallinghigh said:

This is a little something I noticed.
When a plant is raised at 24 hr of light for 1 month clone 1.5 from seed then flipped to 18 hrs of light the plants starts the growth spurt stage of budding but never goes into budding after 3 weeks of hyper growth normal vegging growth rates return. At that point if the plant is put into 12 hr of light it will go through a 2nd growth spurt and get pretty big if you are using a 20 gal pot.

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hyea I haven't done the 24 to 18/6 thing but the growth spurt is identifiable when there are longer dark periods just feed it plenty so it gets big juicy branches.

great advice once again uncle ben +rep

Uncle Ben said:

No. It's a phytochrome trigger, a light sensitive pigment in the red (R) and far red (FR) with a peak around 650nm that controls the flowering response. It's either "on or off".

There is no real value in stair stepping your way from a 20/4 to a 12/12 for most cannabis mutts.

I guess if it feels good, then do it.

UB

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You are 100% wrong

the plant does not trigger by light color it is by time..
Length of equinoctial day and night ...you switch 6500k lights to 12/12 the plant is going to flower plain and simple....I have grown many plants for a extended veg periods..there is a difference...if the plant is established at 24 hours of light.when the switched to 18 the plant starts flowering turns"on" preparing for fall then after 2 weeks it notices the days are not getting shorter and normal veg growth resumes ..."off with flower" wait a week the you can flower and it will turn flower"back on"


there is many documentation on revegging no matter what stage of flower you are in...this is essentially turning flowering off...the switch happens..some people have even been known to go 24 hr half way through flower to trigger veg only 1 week if I remember maybe 2 then back into flower and reportedly had increase in 50% yield...idk what I would think about the quality of dual maturity nugs...but he liked it and more importantly he did it.......if we control the light..we control nature


The growth spurt or shooting stage of bud development is a known fact

This trick is a manipulation of this stage of growth extending or doubling it..better have big pots 20gal +

Plus it is tested and proven


PS.. IT IS NOT 20-4 IT IS 24-0

fallinghigh said:

You are 100% wrong

the plant does not trigger by light color it is by time..

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It's both as triggered by phytochrome, a photoreceptor. The flowering "on/off" response is controlled by the photoperiod with mutts and in the case of equatorial sativas, chronological age. I have done the experiment going from 20/4 to 18/6 and then 12/12. Plants just kept on zipping along until they quickly reached a full blown flowering response under 12/12.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytochrome

I do 20/4. Plants do best with a rest.

UB

Uncle Ben said:

It's both as triggered by phytochrome, a photoreceptor. The flowering "on/off" response is controlled by the photoperiod with mutts and in the case of equatorial sativas, chronological age. I have done the experiment going from 20/4 to 18/6 and then 12/12. Plants just kept on zipping along until they quickly reached a full blown flowering response under 12/12.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytochrome

I do 20/4. Plants do best with a rest.

UB

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of course going from 20-4 to 18-6 isnt going to do it there is no significant jump 2 hrs vs 6 hrs
24-0 to 18-6 to 12-12...I am not going to sit here and fucking argue with someday on my own fucking thread...when they have no idea wtf they are talking about..if you grow a plant with blue leds 24 hr then switch to red 24 hr the plant WILL NOT GO INTO FLOWERING... yes the suns spectrum is different at different times of the year but that is irrelevant to triggering flowering it is all on,length of day..even in equatorials..just not autoflowering

fallinghigh said:

I am not going to sit here and fucking argue with someday on my own fucking thread...when they have no idea wtf they are talking about..

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Be careful. You're about to go toe to toe with the wrong guy. You need to check my record with those who know me.

if you grow a plant with blue leds 24 hr then switch to red 24 hr the plant WILL NOT GO INTO FLOWERING...

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Never said it would, you're missing the point because you did not do your homework. I referred you to an excellent source which gives the relationship of R and FR light as it pertains to phytochrome, a photo-receptor which is the agent that triggers flowering responses in plants.

yes the suns spectrum is different at different times of the year but that is irrelevant to triggering flowering it is all on,length of day..even in equatorials..

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Obviously you have never grown pure sativas, I have, a bunch of them. An equatorial sativa like a Dalat Vietnamese or Colombian sativa mix will take up to 14 months in its natural setting to flower. Phytochrome may play a very small part on some, in the background, but the flowering response is largely determined by chronological age.

just not autoflowering

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I too have grown autoflowering plants. One such photo journal I posted in other forums.

Here's a sample of two colas, staked but still bent over under their own weight. 2 out of 4 main colas, sativa dom, each cola probably 16" across at the base:



UB

fallinghigh said:

Length of equinoctial day and night

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lulz yeah but spectrum still plays a role thats why you bust out lower temp cfl (lower than 6500k) lulz for flowering because it is used more by a flowering plant. it also helps to accomodate flowering, especially in the case of high pressure sodium, with much higher outputs.

it is troo that changing the color of the light will not flower the plant. but that is so basic rudimentary that who cares, we all know that.

Uncle Ben said:

Be careful. You're about to go toe to toe with the wrong guy.

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For one I do know who you are and your thread on water moister is a god send to many a grower and will continue to be.

But I have grown sativas and they to trigger by light timing lol...14 months you are fucking trippen 16-24+ weeks bro 14 hr light to 11 hr light is the transition in a equatorial plant but it does have one

I never meant to ,and do not intent to go toe to toe. I have no problems with you, but you are wrong on this subject

So I would honestly appreciate if you rebutted your statements against a method you have yet tried and obviously no little about.


the plant in the picture is a reveged mother dont bull shit a bull shitter

dbo24242 said:

it is troo that changing the color of the light will not flower the plant. but that is so basic rudimentary that who cares, we all know that.

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uuu fucking no shit thats my fucking point

read the fucking thread

Uncle Ben said:

No. It's a phytochrome trigger, a light sensitive pigment in the red (R) and far red (FR) with a peak around 650nm that controls the flowering response. It's either "on or off"..

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100% wrong

fallinghigh said:

But I have grown sativas and they to trigger by light timing lol...14 months you are fucking trippen 16-24+ weeks bro 14 hr light to 11 hr light is the transition in a equatorial plant but it does have one

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You have never grown a landrace sativa.

the plant in the picture is a reveged mother dont bull shit a bull shitter

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Who you callin' a liar, punk? You may be RIU's classic bullshitter, the village idiot, but some of us don't feel the need to resort to bullshittin' others or posin' as someone we're not. The plant was a seedling with Sensi Skunk in it which autoflowered on the sixth node. The Dronkers are known to use rudy in their genetics. It had a pure sativa profile, which was nice.

UB

fallinghigh said:

100% wrong

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Since reading comprehension and self motivation are not your strongest suits, I'll spoon feed your smart know-it-all ass.

Phytochromes are characterised by a red/far-red photochromicity. Photochromic pigments change their "colour" (spectral absorbance properties) upon light absorption. In the case of phytochrome the ground state is Pr, the r indicating that it absorbs red light particularly strongly. The absorbance maximum is a sharp peak 650–670 nm.....

..... once a red photon has been absorbed, the pigment undergoes a rapid conformational change to form the Pfr state. Here fr indicates that now not red but far-red (also called "near infra-red"; 705–740 nm) is preferentially absorbed. When Pfr absorbs far-red light it is converted back to Pr. Hence, red light makes Pfr, far-red light makes Pr. In plants at least Pfr is the physiologically active or "signalling" state.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytochrome

Mel Franks also has some useful info on the role of phytochrome, photoperiod, etc. Get off the forum voodoo gimmicktry i.e. "hyper drive vegging".

Whew!

UB