NEEDforWEED
Member
i will try to answer all of your electrical questions............hi everyone!!!
i am a Master electrician......use this thread for questions, i will try to help you.
- Thread starter NEEDforWEED
- Start date
I'm sure the code is different everywhere but this might be pretty standard..
I want to run some wire through the attic and I'm wondering if I can just run conduit along the roof rafters instead of routing
it along the ceiling joists? I'm not sure if conduit would be necessary either but I suppose it couldn't hurt?
Also would you recommend installing an arc breaker over a gfci circuit for a new run or would a gfci be plenty enough?
I want to make sure if something happens it is killed instantly at the panel before anything smokes, since if it goes up
and this won't be inspected the insurance company might get stubborn...
I want to run some wire through the attic and I'm wondering if I can just run conduit along the roof rafters instead of routing
it along the ceiling joists? I'm not sure if conduit would be necessary either but I suppose it couldn't hurt?
Also would you recommend installing an arc breaker over a gfci circuit for a new run or would a gfci be plenty enough?
I want to make sure if something happens it is killed instantly at the panel before anything smokes, since if it goes up
and this won't be inspected the insurance company might get stubborn...
AquafinaOrbit
Well-Known Member
Electricians follow NEC National Electrical Code not UBC and also each county usually has their own laws that must be followed in addition to the NECs. Also I would skip the conduit, as its a waist of money and will cause unnecessary work in the future. As for Arc vs GFCI, well GFCI is more for human protection in places with water like a kitchen or bathroom while AFCI is for fire protection,
NEEDforWEED
Member
good question.
as for the conduit question....: either way is ok code wise, conduit, or romex wire......pretty much anywhere in the world.......
as for the practicality of conduit,......its not really practical, unless either of these two things are present...: first, if your wire run will be on the floor of the attic, and is at risk of damge due to people walking on it, it should be protected in conduit, or if u have a rodent problem. if there in pvc pipe, they cant be damaged under foot, or by something chewing on them.....
i would say 99.9% of the time, just plain old yellow 12 awg romex from homedepot is just fine. dont pound your staples in too tight tho, if the wire is squeazed by the staple, heat can build up.
another example of a good use of pipe is, if you plan on running multiple circuits, which i doubt you are. but, if you were, u can pull several wires thru a pipe, rather then having to run 3 romexes for 3 20 amp circuits.....
may i ask what you powering??????
whether it be lights or fans, one, 20amp circuit should be fine.
romex wire, make for an easier "do it your self" project, as trying to run pvc, and fishing the pipe down your walls, to a box, would be VERY labor intensive.
i have staple romex to the floor joists of an attic a million times. its quite safe. you dont even need to staple it if their is no traffic except you up their, id just leave it laying their. pipe in attics can also, cause heat to build up. attics are very hot in the summer.
as for the arc fault vs. gfci question:
its best to use gfci. especially if your main concern in fire or electricution. arc fault is a new concept and hasnt been around long, but gfci protection, is undesputable. you really dont need either, unless water or a sink is near by, but, gfci recepticles, are 10 bucks, and the breakers are 100 bucks, id just go with the recepticles.
i can help you install these devices, if you need it.
only buy (1) gfci, per circuit, meaning, if you decide to go the cheapest easiest route, youll buy enough #12 romex wire, forget the staples, use plastic boxes, and standard devices, except the first device will be a gfci recepticle, with a reset button on the front of it. the one device, if used first in the circuit, will protect the entire circuit down the line. so only buy one gfci per 20 amp circuit.
dont hesitate to ask more questions on this subject, as i understand my info may be confusing. im here to help.
as for the conduit question....: either way is ok code wise, conduit, or romex wire......pretty much anywhere in the world.......
as for the practicality of conduit,......its not really practical, unless either of these two things are present...: first, if your wire run will be on the floor of the attic, and is at risk of damge due to people walking on it, it should be protected in conduit, or if u have a rodent problem. if there in pvc pipe, they cant be damaged under foot, or by something chewing on them.....
i would say 99.9% of the time, just plain old yellow 12 awg romex from homedepot is just fine. dont pound your staples in too tight tho, if the wire is squeazed by the staple, heat can build up.
another example of a good use of pipe is, if you plan on running multiple circuits, which i doubt you are. but, if you were, u can pull several wires thru a pipe, rather then having to run 3 romexes for 3 20 amp circuits.....
may i ask what you powering??????
whether it be lights or fans, one, 20amp circuit should be fine.
romex wire, make for an easier "do it your self" project, as trying to run pvc, and fishing the pipe down your walls, to a box, would be VERY labor intensive.
i have staple romex to the floor joists of an attic a million times. its quite safe. you dont even need to staple it if their is no traffic except you up their, id just leave it laying their. pipe in attics can also, cause heat to build up. attics are very hot in the summer.
as for the arc fault vs. gfci question:
its best to use gfci. especially if your main concern in fire or electricution. arc fault is a new concept and hasnt been around long, but gfci protection, is undesputable. you really dont need either, unless water or a sink is near by, but, gfci recepticles, are 10 bucks, and the breakers are 100 bucks, id just go with the recepticles.
i can help you install these devices, if you need it.
only buy (1) gfci, per circuit, meaning, if you decide to go the cheapest easiest route, youll buy enough #12 romex wire, forget the staples, use plastic boxes, and standard devices, except the first device will be a gfci recepticle, with a reset button on the front of it. the one device, if used first in the circuit, will protect the entire circuit down the line. so only buy one gfci per 20 amp circuit.
dont hesitate to ask more questions on this subject, as i understand my info may be confusing. im here to help.
NEEDforWEED
Member
electrical installations do NOT need to be inspected unless some one has to call the power company for a "disconnection/reconnection", particularly with do-it-yourself projects, work almost never gets inspected.
NEEDforWEED
Member
i want to say right off the bat, before we get too many questions,lmao, NEVER WORK ON ANYTHING WHILE THE POWER IS ON. 120v CAN KILL YOU. any advise i give, i am automatically assuming, the power has been cut off, and you are aproaching this in a safe manner.
Cool thanks for the info. I just plan on running a new circuit to power a 400, 400+ cfm inline and other miscellaenous power items.
I planned on going 12-2 with a 20 amp which will be plenty even for future upgrades if desired. (small area)
I understand it doesn't need inspected and trust me it wasn't going to be anyway
yet insurance companies pay people to find reasons not to justify a claim.. Don't give them a reason you know..
I realize arc/gfci is a little overkill for my purpose but if they can stop something
from happening and keeping the fire dept away than it's a little reassuring.
Not that I have any doubt that my electrical work would result in a fire
I do have some common sense and construction experience.. I trust
my handiwork anyway and know down the road if I resell my house someone isn't going to say WTF is that mess
I read arc isn't required for new wiring at all, it's mainly for dealing with older house wiring and they are really expensive!
I planned on going 12-2 with a 20 amp which will be plenty even for future upgrades if desired. (small area)
I understand it doesn't need inspected and trust me it wasn't going to be anyway
yet insurance companies pay people to find reasons not to justify a claim.. Don't give them a reason you know..
I realize arc/gfci is a little overkill for my purpose but if they can stop something
from happening and keeping the fire dept away than it's a little reassuring.
Not that I have any doubt that my electrical work would result in a fire
I do have some common sense and construction experience.. I trust
my handiwork anyway and know down the road if I resell my house someone isn't going to say WTF is that mess
I read arc isn't required for new wiring at all, it's mainly for dealing with older house wiring and they are really expensive!
NEEDforWEED
Member
yeah, u dont need arc fault, pipe, or even gfci. unless u have a sink near your power, then the gfci could save ur life. lmao. just use a str8 up 20 amp breaker, romex and plugs. ull be fine. good luck. lemme know if u need more help.....anyone else have questions?????
smokinskins
New Member
how much wattage can a 6 outlet strip handle?
NEEDforWEED
Member
whats up slk?????? sorry....i missed ur post, my bad friend.
NEEDforWEED
Member
a 6 outlet strip should have a current rating on it, like 10 or 15 or 20 amps. ultimatly, u have to kkep it under 15 amps, for safety, unless its made with #10 awg wire, then, u can run 20, still risky tho......lol......i hate .power strips, there dangerous....lol.....
smokinskins
New Member
if its 15 amps how many watts total is that for the strip?
AquafinaOrbit
Well-Known Member
Well its a bad idea because a power company doesn't really care how many watts your pulling as long as your paying for it. When power is being lost though a service crew will be sent to check it and as that's a felony law enforcement will be called. To answer the question though, you really need lineman tools that have insulation rated to the voltage you'd be dealing with. In some countries where the cables are unshielded, people will take a conductor and tie a rock to one end and the other into their panel board. They then throw the rock over a power line thus energizing the cable attached to the rock. Wouldn't work here though due to the insulation, but if you could somehow remove a section, say the strip on the side of your house with a blow torch then you could utilize that same rock/conductor principle and rig something up. Of course you'd have to then be able to match up voltages as most lines coming into a house are three phase. Again though I wouldn't at all recommend that, this hobby is sketchy enough and I'm pretty high so that may not even be right.
breaker keeps tripping when the hairdryer is on. Can I take out the fuse for that circuit and get a large one? Other than the hairdryer the room dosent trip anything else.
AquafinaOrbit
Well-Known Member
Well I know you people aren't asking me but I'll give my answer till he gets back to you. (Do electrical work myself and am back in school for electrical technologies so I have some understanding of it)
Firstly, a fuse and a breaker aren't the same thing. Old panel boards used actual fuses, while new ones use breakers. As for changing it, yeah you probably could and very well may be fine. It's tripping for your protection though, the fact that its getting hot enough for the fuse to break or metal in the breaker to stretch enough to trip means the hairdryer is trying to pull to much electricity through that conductor. So by overriding that safety feature that excessive voltage is going to be in your conductor and receptacle until something melts/catches on fire or you turn it off. A bathroom circuit should be 20amps though so is there a lot else running while your using it?
Firstly, a fuse and a breaker aren't the same thing. Old panel boards used actual fuses, while new ones use breakers. As for changing it, yeah you probably could and very well may be fine. It's tripping for your protection though, the fact that its getting hot enough for the fuse to break or metal in the breaker to stretch enough to trip means the hairdryer is trying to pull to much electricity through that conductor. So by overriding that safety feature that excessive voltage is going to be in your conductor and receptacle until something melts/catches on fire or you turn it off. A bathroom circuit should be 20amps though so is there a lot else running while your using it?
no but i think its tied into my grow room circuit, thats why it trips...maybe..hell IDK