I really need a more energy efficient light help
- Thread starter Newgrow31
- Start date
JOO©E
Member
Kingbrite ect for pre made lights (sometimes the name brand guys have good sales going too, good to check, hit or miss), or a DIY custom build for the ultimate deal in price vs performance.
If you want better efficiency than HPS, but don't want to spend the $$ for the ultimate, then buying something from baba is probably your best bet. That or the sun, install more windows or something. HPS isn't breaking 2.0μmol/J, so you're looking for LED with higher efficacy than 2.0μmol/J, and then enough of the lights at the higher efficiency to give you the photon density you're after (μmol's of photons per m2). 800PPFD (800 μmol's of photons, per m2, per second) is a good baseline target for bloom.
How many of the lights will you need? A cpl steps are required.
Step 1
(m2 × PPFD)
Determine your grow area (1.2m × 1.2m), then multiply that area by 800PPFD (or whatever your desired intensity is) to calculate total amount of μmol's of photons needed.
Step 2
(μmol/J × watts)
Multiply the efficacy of the fixture (μmol/J) by the recommended power draw (watts being input, given by manufacturer) of the fixture, to determine how many μmol's of photons the fixture can possibly supply.
Step 3
(Step 1 ÷ Step 2)
Divide the figure from step 1 (ie the total number of required μmol's needed to achieve the desired PPFD, or "per m2 intensity") by the figure in step 2 (ie the total number of μmol's the fixture can produce *while operating at the specified power draw necessary to produce the high efficiency).
Example:
You're looking at a 240W, 2.6μmol/J, fixture and you have a 1.2m × 1.2m area with a target intensity of 800PPFD (800μmol, per m2, per second)
Step 1
1.2m × 1.2m = 1.44m2
800PPFD × 1.44m2 = 1,152 total μmol's needed
Step 2
240W × 2.6μmol/J = 624μmol's created per light
Step 3
(1,152μmol's needed) ÷ (624μmol's created) = 1.84lights needed
Looks like you need 1.84 lights, but obviously you'd round up and then you'd have a bit of an effective dimming range about your target intensity. With 2× lights at max brightness (power draw) you'd have enough photons for more than 800PPFD, and if the lights could dim then you could provide less intensity for younger plants as well.
Blurples can be good grow lights too but the issue is that most blurples being sold rn use really low efficiency LEDs, and thus they typically have poor efficacy, poorer than they are advertised as, so they end up getting a bad name. The vendors dont use high grade LEDs, and they false advertise, but scientifically speaking, blurple is a fairly effective spectrum to grow with. That said, if you're looking for less power consumption for cheaper, then look at white light LED for the reasons stated above. Look for the μmol/J figure (quantum efficacy), and look for the total power draw (not equivalent wattage, but true wattage), those 2 figures are the ones that are the most significant in planning out light needs.
800 - 900 PPFD is what I'd recommend for bloom needs, and 3000K or 3500K is what I'd recommend for the color of the light (and yes, 660nm mixed in is also good imo). The name brand stuff has been 3rd party tested/verified to ensure they have the best of the best chips ect, and this testing and quality of parts costs money which they pass onto the customer. That said, the copycat stuff is still pretty good. They might not go the extra mile on the part quality or testing ect, but they do provide a step up in efficiency from HPS. They won't out perform the top end lights, but they won't cost too much either and they are an upgrade in efficiency compared to HID.
If you want better efficiency than HPS, but don't want to spend the $$ for the ultimate, then buying something from baba is probably your best bet. That or the sun, install more windows or something. HPS isn't breaking 2.0μmol/J, so you're looking for LED with higher efficacy than 2.0μmol/J, and then enough of the lights at the higher efficiency to give you the photon density you're after (μmol's of photons per m2). 800PPFD (800 μmol's of photons, per m2, per second) is a good baseline target for bloom.
How many of the lights will you need? A cpl steps are required.
Step 1
(m2 × PPFD)
Determine your grow area (1.2m × 1.2m), then multiply that area by 800PPFD (or whatever your desired intensity is) to calculate total amount of μmol's of photons needed.
Step 2
(μmol/J × watts)
Multiply the efficacy of the fixture (μmol/J) by the recommended power draw (watts being input, given by manufacturer) of the fixture, to determine how many μmol's of photons the fixture can possibly supply.
Step 3
(Step 1 ÷ Step 2)
Divide the figure from step 1 (ie the total number of required μmol's needed to achieve the desired PPFD, or "per m2 intensity") by the figure in step 2 (ie the total number of μmol's the fixture can produce *while operating at the specified power draw necessary to produce the high efficiency).
Example:
You're looking at a 240W, 2.6μmol/J, fixture and you have a 1.2m × 1.2m area with a target intensity of 800PPFD (800μmol, per m2, per second)
Step 1
1.2m × 1.2m = 1.44m2
800PPFD × 1.44m2 = 1,152 total μmol's needed
Step 2
240W × 2.6μmol/J = 624μmol's created per light
Step 3
(1,152μmol's needed) ÷ (624μmol's created) = 1.84lights needed
Looks like you need 1.84 lights, but obviously you'd round up and then you'd have a bit of an effective dimming range about your target intensity. With 2× lights at max brightness (power draw) you'd have enough photons for more than 800PPFD, and if the lights could dim then you could provide less intensity for younger plants as well.
Blurples can be good grow lights too but the issue is that most blurples being sold rn use really low efficiency LEDs, and thus they typically have poor efficacy, poorer than they are advertised as, so they end up getting a bad name. The vendors dont use high grade LEDs, and they false advertise, but scientifically speaking, blurple is a fairly effective spectrum to grow with. That said, if you're looking for less power consumption for cheaper, then look at white light LED for the reasons stated above. Look for the μmol/J figure (quantum efficacy), and look for the total power draw (not equivalent wattage, but true wattage), those 2 figures are the ones that are the most significant in planning out light needs.
800 - 900 PPFD is what I'd recommend for bloom needs, and 3000K or 3500K is what I'd recommend for the color of the light (and yes, 660nm mixed in is also good imo). The name brand stuff has been 3rd party tested/verified to ensure they have the best of the best chips ect, and this testing and quality of parts costs money which they pass onto the customer. That said, the copycat stuff is still pretty good. They might not go the extra mile on the part quality or testing ect, but they do provide a step up in efficiency from HPS. They won't out perform the top end lights, but they won't cost too much either and they are an upgrade in efficiency compared to HID.
Last edited:
budolskie
Well-Known Member
Great info,
although i will need to read it over and over agaim before my pickled Onion brain understands it fully
DarkWeb
Well-Known Member
Start here
I'm still having difficulties dialing them in. I have 4 of the Kingbrite V4 240's in a 5X5, and have seen signs of light stress on my plants.
JOO©E
Member
I hang high and only go about 30W/ft2. If you're seeing stress then raise the lights (could dim too), and raise RH. Baby em back. Check ppms and pH also, applying a flush is an option if need be. Dilute nute ratio if in hydro till ppms start dropping (the plant is consuming ions then and that's why ppms drop, its a good sign and what you want). Don't add more nutes till ppms begin to drop, and flush and dilute ppms if the plant is not eating. pH should range somewhere from 5.5 - 6.5 in hydro, to 6.5 - 7.5 in soil, or around there.
Thanks! I raised them instead of dimming, because I want some good penetration for the lower buds on the stems. It's my first time using quantum boards, so I'm in new territory here. My pH must be good because the plants are growing flowers now.
hotrodharley
Well-Known Member
You get what you pay for. If you’re lucky. Buy cheap now and replace later. Usually right when you need it most and can afford it least.