Ideas and suggestions for room modifications

chezzer

Member
So my buddy and I built this system last year and have been trying to get it dialed in ever since. First time around we veged eight Critical Mass clones into trees after two months and only yielded 17 ounces. There were a number of reasons as to why this happened, too much light, nutrient issues, root rot, overzealous trimming practices, and system mishaps that contributed to power outages throughout the grow.

The second time around we decided to increase our plant count to 24 and only veg for three weeks. So far this grow has gone much more smoothly, but still not without incident. This time we had more nutrient problems early in flower. Hopefully this will be fixed when we switch to Advanced Nutrients next go round.

My main question for the community, however, is if this were your system what would you do?


I am looking to see if a 24 plant SOG in UCDWC is the most efficient way to pull the most out of this space.


Also if you see anything that is glaringly wrong with my build, please feel free to share.


Thanks and I look forward to your comments.

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Genetics: 24 Critical Mass clones (SOG)

Youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiAlSu6haF0

4’x 8’x7’ Grow-room & 3’x 4’x7’ Utility-room (attached)

Room constructed with wooden 2x4’s, plywood (outer shell/doors), drywall (inner shell), insulation, and heavy duty plastic sheeting.

Inside walls painted flat white, and green light installed in ceiling for “dark room” maintenance.

Environment:

12,500 BTU mini-split AC installed. Two wall-mounted oscillating fans on either wall and fan attached to carbon filter suspended from ceiling. No intake or exhaust (sealed room).

Dehumidifier placed in grow-room, suspended above reservoir.

CO2:

20lb. tanks located in utility room attached to solenoid, regulator, and Sentinel CHHC-4 controller. CO2 dispersed into path of oscillating fan on wall adjacent to utility room.

Hydroponics:

Reverse Osmosis unit located in utility room. RO line feeds two 55 gallon drums and grow room reservoir on float valve.

Grow room system, modeled after CCH2O, has five 27 gallon tough totes, one reservoir, four planters (UCDWC).

Each planter tote equipped with an 8” air diffuser connected to 100L air pump, and reservoir equipped with micro-pore double XL air diffuser connected to 70L air pump. Both pumps located in grow room near ceiling.

At full capacity system volume is 88 gallons with a re circulation rate of four times per hour (real measurement).

Lights and ducting:

Two Magnum XXL hoods (1,000 watt MH/HPS bulbs) hang from adjustable pulleys anchored to ceiling of grow room. Hoods cooled with closed loop configuration.
 

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Nice Setup M8,

Look forward to some bud porn for sure.

Welcome to the Madhouse

Peace and Great Grows

Asmallvoice
 
Your dehum. away from any waters source as it will get a false reading off of the moisture and not work correctly .Even when injecting a room with CO2 there needs to be several air change overs per day then recharged with fresh co2.Your plants will still need at least 4 fresh air change overs per day to keep from getting stale.Remove the glass from the hoods unless you have them vented outside to remove heat.The glass will cut way down on your lumen output from the bulb also the hoods can be used to deflect diffused air down on the plants with a soft constant airflow change over through the plants.Direct air should not hit the plants because it increases the evaporation of moisture around the buds that are developing and the leafs.The air should be diffused off of a wall and not directed at the plants.Especially with any type of high velocity.If there were a way to take your water outside of the room to a cooler room injecting CO2 can be done at higher temperatures as the plant will more effectively use CO2 at higher temperatures.Cooler water holds more oxygen and has less likely hood to grow pathogens.(see dutch masters ZONE)TRY lining the room to include the floor with ORCA paper.Good luck to you and hope this helps you increase the health of your plants and production at harvest time.
 
ive got same hoods they are great no need to remove the glass, what have you in there 600w or 1000w lamps?

as if you had 1000w one light would prob do in that space. saying that u have 12000BTU so u should be smashing it in there with two lights.

advance nutrients are very strong so start of with ppm of 200 an build from there each week.
 
Your dehum. away from any waters source as it will get a false reading off of the moisture and not work correctly .Even when injecting a room with CO2 there needs to be several air change overs per day then recharged with fresh co2.Your plants will still need at least 4 fresh air change overs per day to keep from getting stale.Remove the glass from the hoods unless you have them vented outside to remove heat.The glass will cut way down on your lumen output from the bulb also the hoods can be used to deflect diffused air down on the plants with a soft constant airflow change over through the plants.Direct air should not hit the plants because it increases the evaporation of moisture around the buds that are developing and the leafs.The air should be diffused off of a wall and not directed at the plants.Especially with any type of high velocity.If there were a way to take your water outside of the room to a cooler room injecting CO2 can be done at higher temperatures as the plant will more effectively use CO2 at higher temperatures.Cooler water holds more oxygen and has less likely hood to grow pathogens.(see dutch masters ZONE)TRY lining the room to include the floor with ORCA paper.Good luck to you and hope this helps you increase the health of your plants and production at harvest time.
Air movement is great for the buds,Dont know where U got tht but You are So wrong
Guess you would rather him get pm and mold his buds.
Beech
 
Air movement is great for the buds,Dont know where U got tht but You are So wrong
Guess you would rather him get pm and mold his buds.
Beech

Air movement is great.Beating your plants down with high velocity air right on top of them is NOT great.How do i know this? Because i beat some plants down with direct air.The plants love air Change over through the plant.Constant air movement.They however do not like to be sit right in front of a fan.When you have a wet floor you dry it how? With a fan moving over it ?What does the air movement do? Evaporates the water? Correct?Those leaves are made up of what? Water?The buds are made up of what? Water? What happens when we move air directly across water? Why it evaporates .
 
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