IF you are new to LED and want help choosing what to buy, POST HERE!

yup and thats all im really concerned with, i think some people on forums get the misconception that the plant will not grow unless under ideal conditions. they dont call it weed for no reason

Recommendations for a Fan that will be used on a 8x8 " heatsink. Only going to be a total of 15 Cree white leds and Rebel ES DR on it .

Only requirement is that it's super quiet..Can't have the noise of a Fan keeping me up at night..I'm a light sleeper and the noise
would drive me insane.

Thanks guys !

What kind of Cree's and how many amps are you driving them at? And how many Rebel's? Amps? Is the heat sink going to be wide open? Or will there be some kind of enclosure with side vents?

Cooler Master Sickleflow 120mm are pretty quiet.

RainerRocks said:

Recommendations for a Fan that will be used on a 8x8 " heatsink. Only going to be a total of 15 Cree white leds and Rebel ES DR on it .

Only requirement is that it's super quiet..Can't have the noise of a Fan keeping me up at night..I'm a light sleeper and the noise
would drive me insane.

Thanks guys !

Click to expand...

Eraserhead said:

What kind of Cree's and how many amps are you driving them at? And how many Rebel's? Amps? Is the heat sink going to be wide open? Or will there be some kind of enclosure with side vents?

Cooler Master Sickleflow 120mm are pretty quiet.

Click to expand...

Hey ER

2 HeatSinks
15 leds on each HS
2 dimmer channels will control both sets of LED's on each heatsink.


This set-up will be duplicated for each heatsink. So driver #1 will have 14 LED's 7x2 and Driver #2 will have 16
LED's 8x2.

Heatsink # 1 and #2 will have these 15 LED's X 2 ( merkaba lay out ) for each Driver.

Driver (X2 LED'S) #1 -1000mA
3-XP-G CW
2-XP-G NW
2-XT-E RB

Driver ( X2 LED's) #2 -700mA
2-XP-G WW
6- Rebel ES Deep RED

Going to be open for now until I build some kind of casing down the road with side vents.

Using this Driver which will enable me to Dim each driver.
http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/makersdriver-professional-grade-dimmable-led-driver/

PS: You should get in the business of making enclosures...that market is wide open and I'm sure
it will be a hit with all the DIY'er's . Maybe some kind of screw on kit where the customer only has to drill a hole on the
outside of fins to attach the sides then the top part could be snapped onto the sides very easy with a couple of nuts and bolts.Some
cut outs for fans .

Also maybe some metal cover with holes for LED's to pop thru to cover all the wires from the LED connections.

Keeps everything looking nice and tidy.

I'd try to run all the XPG's at 700-800mA, but if 1000mA is set in stone, it'll still be fairly efficient.

I'd trade the 2 Royal Blues with the 2 XPG WW's, so the WW's are getting 1000mA, and the Blues are getting 700mA.

Though, I'd try to run all the blues and Philly reds @ 500-600mA, if possible.

If you didn't buy the blues yet, I'd trade those in for more CW's.

And, many people do not know this, mainly because they do not have access to a spectroradiometer, 3000k + 6000k = 4500k. Mixing CW and WW = NW/OW. Identical spectrum. Unless different blue chips are used in each of the whites. Then it is the same spectrum, except a slightly wider blue output.

Only benefit is if they're on separate switches for veg/flowering.

Anyways, for the fans...

The fan I mentioned will work, and will work quite well and very quiet, 1 fan per each 8" sink. There's an RCA ac/dc adapter that is 12v and 350mA that works perfectly, been using that combo in my veg tent for going on 3 years now, same fan and same adapter, works like new, and runs super quiet. Just need to wipe down the fan every 45 days or so.... Otherwise, they have never been shut off.

The fan was $32 for 4 of them, and the RCA's were $7 at Wallymart.

I am looking into expanding the A51 business.

As far as the enclosure, unless everyone is using the same exact size sink, it's impossible to have an enclosure that everyone can use. However, I'm looking into making kits that include sinks, enclosures, fans, drivers, solderless LEDs (Cree and Heliopto), central connection circuit boards, and drivers. We're not in a hurry at the moment to get that all kicked off, we're having a hard time keeping up with what we have now, we're selling the new lamp faster than we can build it. Maybe later this year we'll start that aspect of A51.

RainerRocks said:

Hey ER

2 HeatSinks
15 leds on each HS
2 dimmer channels on each HS


This set-up will be duplicated for each heatsink. So driver #1 will have 14 LED's 7x2 and Driver #2 will have 16
LED's 8x2.

Driver #1 -1000mA
3-XP-G CW
2-XP-G NW
2-XT-E RB

Driver #2 -700mA
2-XP-G WW
6- Rebel ES Deep RED

Going to be open for now until I build some kind of casing down the road with side vents.

Using this Driver /Dimmer
http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/makersdriver-professional-grade-dimmable-led-driver/

PS: You should get in the business of making enclosures...that market is wide open and I'm sure
it will be a hit with all the DIY'er's . Maybe some kind of screw on kit where the customer only has to drill a hole on the
outside of fins to attach the sides then the top part could be snapped onto the sides very easy with a couple of nuts and bolts.Some
cut outs for fans .

Also maybe some metal cover with holes for LED's to pop thru to cover all the wires from the LED connections.

Keeps everything looking nice and tidy.

Click to expand...

Hi guys, I have a DR90ii tent at the moment, it's 3x3x7. I just put everything together and bought 2 PL-L T5 Tek Lamps ~30000k Lumens, while they are doing good for my first grow, i'd like to move on to getting an LED. I have some excess tax return money that's burning a hole in my pocket.

I'm contemplating getting a BlackStar 500 W LED. Some dude in my local area is selling 2 new in the box for 350 a piece. Me and a buddy are probably gonna buy one each.

I have a few questions,
1. Can I use the BlackStar LED for vegging, or should I use the T5s still for that?
2. During flowering, can I use both the T5s and the LEDS? The Tek 4 lamp is about 2x2, the Tek 2 lamp is 1x2, I might be able to squeeze the blackstar as side lighting.
3. Knowing my dimensions, and the dimensions of the lighting, how would you arrange those 3 lamps? I plan on growing 4-6 plants in 3 gal pots for personal consumption, just don't want popcorn buds, but don't need to get crazy yield as I am not cash cropping.

^^ how the hell are you squeezing all those lights in a 3x3??? Love those pl-l fixtures, their lying about the lumen rating though and make sure your using a mechanical timer with them or your burn through those bulbs grower. Personally I would go with this http://growershouse.com/california-light-works-solarflare-led-200w-led-plant-grow-light around the same price and gives you more wiggle room. I'm willing to bet that it puts out more par than the BS500(220w actual) as well..........

PSUAGRO. said:

^^ how the hell are you squeezing all those lights in a 3x3??? Love those pl-l fixtures, their lying about the lumen rating though and make sure your using a mechanical timer with them or your burn through those bulbs grower. Personally I would go with this http://growershouse.com/california-light-works-solarflare-led-200w-led-plant-grow-light around the same price and gives you more wiggle room. I'm willing to bet that it puts out more par than the BS500(220w actual) as well..........

Click to expand...

If I didn't buy the SGS-160, I would have bought the SF200. It's at the right price point, and performance has been shown... I went A51 with a bit of trust.
I would have a lot more confidence spending $400 on CLW than the same on BS's.

I just wrote a big post and my PC rebooted..ugh


Anyway thanks for the chock full of info reply ER !


I already have the LED's on their way but I'm building 2 more panels in 6 weeks ( Overtime at work is hot so I have to grab it $)
so I can change things up and rethink the next build for sure.

I never thought to think 3000k + 6000k = 4500k. Mixing CW and WW = NW/OW. Something to keep in mind for the next 2 panels..Thanks !

No mA 500 in stock until May22nd but they will be coming in right around my next build in about 6 weeks so
this will be the route I'll be taking due to your suggestion.

Only reason I put the WW's with the RED's I wanted more warmer light with the Reds on their own channel but hear what you are saying by swapping the RB with the WW and run the RB's at 500mA with the reds and the WW's at 1000mA with other whites or have all whites at 700mA to be more efficient.

I'm new to all this DIY for LED's and don't know how or what to buy to have switches for each channel.I don't
even know how it would be wired to have switches. My set up will be just pulling the plug to cut off power which will shut down both channels. I rather have switches but don't have the know how...Learning all about this electrical stuff was a job itself..LOL.

This is the power supply which will run these 2 panels and the next 2 panels I build in the weeks coming.
http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/180w-48v-3-75a-dc-power-supply/ .

Do I need a power supply for each channel to be able to have on/off switches for each channel ? Think I'll start a thread asking for advice on how to build a on/off switch for each channel.

You have a good rep as A51 so strike the iron while is hot and get them KITS going I came very close to buying your
panel but didn't have the full funds . I been buying my stuff parts at a time as the money comes in plus I like to have numerous smaller panels so I can move them around .

Hey maybe you should sell small panels with 15 +/- led's on each panel so more people can afford them and they can always buy
more when the funds permit them to do so. Some kind of daisy change thing .

Yes I'll get the Fan you suggested

Thanks for your help !

Eraserhead said:

I'd try to run all the XPG's at 700-800mA, but if 1000mA is set in stone, it'll still be fairly efficient.

I'd trade the 2 Royal Blues with the 2 XPG WW's, so the WW's are getting 1000mA, and the Blues are getting 700mA.

Though, I'd try to run all the blues and Philly reds @ 500-600mA, if possible.

If you didn't buy the blues yet, I'd trade those in for more CW's.

And, many people do not know this, mainly because they do not have access to a spectroradiometer, 3000k + 6000k = 4500k. Mixing CW and WW = NW/OW. Identical spectrum. Unless different blue chips are used in each of the whites. Then it is the same spectrum, except a slightly wider blue output.

Only benefit is if they're on separate switches for veg/flowering.

Anyways, for the fans...

The fan I mentioned will work, and will work quite well and very quiet, 1 fan per each 8" sink. There's an RCA ac/dc adapter that is 12v and 350mA that works perfectly, been using that combo in my veg tent for going on 3 years now, same fan and same adapter, works like new, and runs super quiet. Just need to wipe down the fan every 45 days or so.... Otherwise, they have never been shut off.

The fan was $32 for 4 of them, and the RCA's were $7 at Wallymart.

I am looking into expanding the A51 business.

As far as the enclosure, unless everyone is using the same exact size sink, it's impossible to have an enclosure that everyone can use. However, I'm looking into making kits that include sinks, enclosures, fans, drivers, solderless LEDs (Cree and Heliopto), central connection circuit boards, and drivers. We're not in a hurry at the moment to get that all kicked off, we're having a hard time keeping up with what we have now, we're selling the new lamp faster than we can build it. Maybe later this year we'll start that aspect of A51.

Click to expand...

I'd be very interested in some sample wiring schematics of multiple channels, for all of us still getting our feet wet in the more... techy side of things.

Scotch089 said:

I'd be very interested in some sample wiring schematics of multiple channels, for all of us still getting our feet wet in the more... techy side of things.

Click to expand...

Hey Scotch

I'll start a thread on wiring schematics for on/off switches for separate channels Flower/veg..I don't have a clue on how to do it so hopefully those who do will chime in.

PSUAGRO. said:

^^ how the hell are you squeezing all those lights in a 3x3??? Love those pl-l fixtures, their lying about the lumen rating though and make sure your using a mechanical timer with them or your burn through those bulbs grower. Personally I would go with this http://growershouse.com/california-light-works-solarflare-led-200w-led-plant-grow-light around the same price and gives you more wiggle room. I'm willing to bet that it puts out more par than the BS500(220w actual) as well..........

Click to expand...

I would keep the T5s up top over the plants and during flowering, introduce the LED Panel on the side, as side lighting.

Are they lying about their lumens? what is actual lumens? I wanna get something with a really good warranty, as I hear alot of these break easily.

Anyone want to help with schematics on how to build an on/off switch into a panel please
post here..we could use the help.

https://www.rollitup.org/led-other-lighting/648755-please-contribute-schematics-off-switches.html

Thanks

hi..looking to set up from scratch..room specs are 4x7 meters..any advice/plans would b greatly appreciated

wishbone.

I just completed reading this thread back to front. Some of you seem to have a pretty good grasp on the LED's so I am going to put out a couple of questions here for you. I have been growing under MH/HPS for years but want to make the transition to LED. I have several different tents but will be using a 4 x 8 x 7 as a primary. I need LED's that will run the grow from start to finish. I grow aero style in 7 foot rails made of 5 inch square fence post. I scrog out 6 plants in the tent so the LED must be able to veg as well as flower. I have been in talks with Cidly about purchasing 4 of their Apollo 10 series lights. I chose the 10's over the 12's because of a graph I saw somewhere that the 10's have more PAR than the 12's and therefore should be more efficient. Cidly gave me a quote of 275 each and shipping of 240 dollars for a total investment of around 1350 dollars for the 4 units. The Cidly people have told me I can choose the individual LED's that go into the units and they will build them to spec per my requirements.

1) Do you think 4 of the Apollo 10's will be enough to cover the 4 x 8 area of the scrog?

2) What would be the best choice of LED's to have them build out for the units to perform at an optimum from start to finish?

3) I currently pull about 1,400 grams per harvest under twin 600's, will the LED's be able to meet this same production level? This is actually very important as I will be increasing my wattage to almost 1500 watts with 4 of these units.

Thanks ahead of time to everyone who can offer something constructive to my questions.

You could do so much more for that space than Cidly,

Apache, and Astir (proven their ground in larger spaces) are the first to hit me as a "go-to"

Or a few of the infamous SGS-160 by A51

dono your budget, but you wouldn't go wrong with any of those decisions... Cidly... meh:..

not to mention if you ARE stuck on Cidly- buy smaller panels for more leveling and adjustable options, custom ratios (could make an entire tent schematic), AND they'd probably offer you am even larger discount because you'll have more individual units- covering the same space, only better.

Personally I would be posting up 3 SGS's with 8-12 Astirs (2-4 per SGS)

but THAT is an investment, and in an ideal world... legal, world.

I have set my budget at 1500 dollars for lighting. I am not stuck on any company. I have only spoken with Cidly because of the great prices I have seen from them and from seeing some decent growing results. In the end it comes down to production and trying to lower my electrical costs and the ecological footprint that using so much electricity leaves behind. I have also spoken with hydrogrowled about 4 of their Sol 2 units which should also cover a 4 x 8 area but their cost is higher and I have seen little to nothing on them since it is a new unit and does not begin shipping out until next month. They run a 5 band in 440nm, 470nm, 525nm, 640nm, 660nm. They also have larger units and 2 of the Sol 9 Series would cost about 2200 and that is more than I am willing to pay even if they were proven. I am open to any and all brands so long as they meet my budget and I can confirm that the lights will work in a way that equally performs or out-performs the MH/HPS that I am currently using.

That's a hard budget to work with to fully cover and still meet your twin6 yields. You're doing great with the hps you need to spend some cash upfront to get the same with LED's. They will save in the long run though.

I am an obvious fan of apache techs but even at 750 a piece, 4 of them would be out of your range.
4 A51's might work well and be closer to you range.

Cindly just seems like a lot of wattage when I assume you are trying to save some on your Ebill. But I see the upfront cost are nicer.

El Tiberon said:

I have set my budget at 1500 dollars for lighting. ... trying to lower my electrical costs and the ecological footprint ... also cover a 4 x 8 area ... I am open to any and all brands so long as they meet my budget and I can confirm that the lights will work in a way that equally performs or out-performs the MH/HPS that I am currently using.

Click to expand...

Have you looked into induction? 2x 420PAR's would rock a 4x8 for the same $1500.

Otherwise, 4X8 is 32sq.ft, for LED that's 960-1600watts total. So your real budget is almost a dollar per watt.

Hey El T, have you run your numbers by George at Cali Light Works? He could help. Also, have you thought about vegging with LEDs, then switching back to HPS for flowering? That could cut your e-bill in the long run and doesn't require the same investment of capital. Scrogging is an excellent way to grow with LED but if you trip up and get the wrong panel, you'll be cursing LEDs forever. Good Luck!