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BM9AGS

Well-Known Member
Current good affordable Leds = 150- 175 lumens per watt

600 watt HPS =158 lumens per watt.

A Watt is a measure of heat.



Currently to achieve more efficiency in leds you need to move to the blues spectrum and away from the reds.


There are no spectrum advantages relative to efficiency moving to leds.

And limited general heat advantages per watt other than moving away from radiant heat

What advantages of moving to Led from HPS is their today?

(Horticulture is my Profession)
Lumens are for humans. Plants prefer more red green and white than just mostly white of hid. So your scale.....although a decent measure isn't accurate as even white LEDs crush hid in plant needing light

Blue is amazing in veg and red is said to give bigger buds in flower. Cobs in 3500k seem good at both. I've used red blue and white mixed and it's all the same. But I can veg a 3x4 foot area with 88 watts of Osram ssl 80 and crush it. But veg is easy.image.png
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Lumens are for humans. Plants prefer more red green and white than just mostly white of hid. So your scale.....although a decent measure isn't accurate as even white LEDs crush hid in plant needing light

Blue is amazing in veg and red is said to give bigger buds in flower. Cobs in 3500k seem good at both. I've used red blue and white mixed and it's all the same. But I can veg a 3x4 foot area with 88 watts of Osram ssl 80 and crush it. But veg is easy.
Was wondering how you made out w/ your build? That was a nice ceiling of light you have their. Gotta pic. Of the finished product?

Current good affordable Leds = 150- 175 lumens per watt

600 watt HPS =158 lumens per watt.

A Watt is a measure of heat.



Currently to achieve more efficiency in leds you need to move to the blues spectrum and away from the reds.

A white led is blue prior to coating


There are no spectrum advantages relative to efficiency moving to leds.

And limited general heat advantages per watt other than moving away from radiant heat

What advantages of moving to Led from HPS is their today?

(Horticulture is my Profession)
With the comp. I referred, they offer the full spectrum, enhanced where it matters most.
image.jpg
Providing much more quality light then HPS.
 

BM9AGS

Well-Known Member
Really.. Ok wow. I just learn something new , blue is amazing in veg and red bigger buds in flower.

far out man, cool stuff, can you tell me why? mum has some red cellophane i might try it over my lights and see if they grow big bud .

thanks for the tip.
It's my experience. And same as others. Don't remember the reasons but the plant needs more blue for veg and red for flower. But 3500k cobs seems to nail both.
 

mauricem00

Well-Known Member
Lumens are for humans. Plants prefer more red green and white than just mostly white of hid. So your scale.....although a decent measure isn't accurate as even white LEDs crush hid in plant needing light
actually plants like a broad spectrum of light from 410 to 690nm.seems the led crowd has always claimed that plant only need the light that LEDs can produce efficiently and do not need the light that LEDs can't produce efficiently. even some high end LED grow light makers claim that plants only need 3 bands (450,630,660nm) but the data does not support these claims.lumens give greater weight to green light. umoles give greater weight to red light. radiant power is the only measurement that is not adjusted for wavelength and radiant power in the 400-700nm range as well as a spectrum that comes close to the mccree curve is the best way to compare plant lights.LPS lights can produce over 190lumens per watt but they do a poor job of growing plants. CFLs produce less than 70 lumens per watt but many people have grown plant with them successfully.do your homework and educate yourself. do not rely on sales pitches and hype.a high CRI led will provide a better spectrum than HPS and the lower LPW rating does not represent lower efficiency. just a shift in the red peak from 590nm to 630nm. radiant power is the same for high CRI LEDs as for low CRI leds
 

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mauricem00

Well-Known Member
It's my experience. And same as others. Don't remember the reasons but the plant needs more blue for veg and red for flower. But 3500k cobs seems to nail both.
cytochrome is a plant pigment that responds to blue light and instructs plant to use energy for leaf development (vegging) photochrome responds to red light and instructs plants to use energy for flowering in its excited state this pigment responds to darkness or IR light by reverting to it's resting state the ratio between pigments in these two states at "lights on" also stimulate flowering which is why light cycle is important.in theory a 3000k- 4000k high CRI diode supplemented with 430nm diodes should come close to matching the mccree curve' plants have close to 400 pigments and they all play a role in producing strong healthy plants.
 

BM9AGS

Well-Known Member
Mauricem00 said it all mo better^^^

My experience with the Zelion HL lights was that blue only for veg gave me the healthiest and fastest growth I've ever had. And at only 88watts for a 4.5x3' area.... So lots of folks want the "burple" lights to die but I'm gonna add blue and red to my Cree 3500k....
 

Malocan

Well-Known Member
Well, they are all very powerful, making even the smallere ones equal to a 600-1000 watt HPS In small area. They can also all be linked together.
The SE-450 is a total replacement for 600watt + HPS though.
The Pro-3 or Pro-4 would be great to. But I'd suggest 2.
Hello Sir,
i dont belive, that this unit can cover the same size like a 600 watt hps with the same par footprint.
With 600 hps i managed to got often over 600 gramms in a 4*4.
https://www.amaretechnologies.com/collections/solarecilipse/products/copy-of-solareclipse-se450-uvb
this unit?
How is ppfd uniformity in a 4*4 witth that light? how high i have to hang it over the plant canopy
 

Malocan

Well-Known Member
Hello Sir,
i dont belive, that this unit can cover the same size like a 600 watt hps with the same par footprint.
With 600 hps i managed to got often over 600 gramms in a 4*4.
https://www.amaretechnologies.com/collections/solarecilipse/products/copy-of-solareclipse-se450-uvb
this unit?
How is ppfd uniformity in a 4*4 with that light? how high i have to hang it over the plant canopy
On their internet side are so less informations, not one information about output.
I can see only informations about which led they use and infos about spectrum, but i cant see how hard he run the leds
What driver they use? The internet side is bullshit. I would like to see a ppfd footprint of this unit. There is not one proof that this unit can cover 4*4 like a HPS.
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Hello Sir,
i dont belive, that this unit can cover the same size like a 600 watt hps with the same par footprint.
With 600 hps i managed to got often over 600 gramms in a 4*4.
https://www.amaretechnologies.com/collections/solarecilipse/products/copy-of-solareclipse-se450-uvb
this unit?
How is ppfd uniformity in a 4*4 with that light? how high i have to hang it over the plant canopy
On their internet side are so less informations, not one information about output.
I can see only informations about which led they use and infos about spectrum, but i cant see how hard he run the leds
What driver they use? The internet side is bullshit. I would like to see a ppfd footprint of this unit. There is not one proof that this unit can cover 4*4 like a HPS.
Oh. I have the proof in my thread if you'd like to read some. It's all about the results my man. It was a very poor grow on my part w/ crappy plants but I used 1 , SE-450 in a 4'x4'.

https://www.rollitup.org/p/12770270/

Sure, it's not max light for a 4'x4' but deffinetly is max light for a 3'x3'. W/o lenses it covers the 4'x4' w/o having to worry about raising it high. W/ lenses, it does have to be raised quite a bit, but it does for the intensity w/ lens anyways.
Same strain n everything I got .56 under the 600 watt HPS.
Got back 1.12 under the SE-450.
Both were a poor veg & the same plants.
So, the SE-450 does put out even more light then a 600. That's why I say 600++.

This company is always upgrading. Their web-site should be up-dated soon but all the answers are out there. I have them all through e-mail & can answer any question you have. But if you were interested in buying them I'd just recommend e-mailing. The owner, Victor will get right back to you w/ the answers to any questions. They are very transparent.
Their new lights have a bunch of up-grades that are not on the site. A bunch!!!
 

BM9AGS

Well-Known Member
That's so nice! Do you like it?
Yeah.... It's on a light mover. Moves for a 4.5 foot area by 6 foot area. So shouldn't be hot spots with the Stella's.

I'll tell you how much I like it after a grow. I'm wanting to add 200w of 660 red and 200w of 450 blue from Osram ssl 80 LEDs. I actually think I could perfectly veg that whole area with just 200w of 450 blue.... Then for flower use the 660 red with the cxb 3590 3500k. Over kill yes, but yolo
 

coughphee.connoiseur

Well-Known Member
actually plants like a broad spectrum of light from 410 to 690nm.seems the led crowd has always claimed that plant only need the light that LEDs can produce efficiently and do not need the light that LEDs can't produce efficiently. even some high end LED grow light makers claim that plants only need 3 bands (450,630,660nm) but the data does not support these claims.lumens give greater weight to green light. umoles give greater weight to red light. radiant power is the only measurement that is not adjusted for wavelength and radiant power in the 400-700nm range as well as a spectrum that comes close to the mccree curve is the best way to compare plant lights.LPS lights can produce over 190lumens per watt but they do a poor job of growing plants. CFLs produce less than 70 lumens per watt but many people have grown plant with them successfully.do your homework and educate yourself. do not rely on sales pitches and hype.a high CRI led will provide a better spectrum than HPS and the lower LPW rating does not represent lower efficiency. just a shift in the red peak from 590nm to 630nm. radiant power is the same for high CRI LEDs as for low CRI leds

Any suggestions on a light fixture or two for growing that utilizes the mc cree curve to the upmost potential?
 

Malocan

Well-Known Member
Same strain n everything I got .56 under the 600 watt HPS.
Got back 1.12 under the SE-450.
Both were a poor veg & the same plants.
So, the SE-450 does put out even more light then a 600. That's why I say 600++.
hm, u managed to got more gramms with amare se-450 in compare to 600watt hps. I believe that, but this is for sure no proof that amrae makes more light then a 600watt hps!
Maybe it was just easier to grow for you under led and thats one reason why u got better results
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Any suggestions on a light fixture or two for growing that utilizes the mc cree curve to the upmost potential?
Not to be rude but Have you been following the thread? I just posted said lights spectrum. As far as I know there is no LED closer to the McCree curve or Photosythetic Action Spectrum.

hm, u managed to got more gramms with amare se-450 in compare to 600watt hps. I believe that, but this is for sure no proof that amrae makes more light then a 600watt hps!
Maybe it was just easier to grow for you under led and thats one reason why u got better results
It was my first LED grow. I assure you, it puts out more total light then a 600 watt HPS. I have all the par #'s n stuff. Not a PPFD but I have recorded results that have pictures of the plants in the 4'x4' growing very well on the edges.
I'm all about the truth my friend. Check out my thread. It has most answers to your questions.
 

Resinhound

Well-Known Member
I think if someone took some par measurements on the amare with just the monos at 18 and 24 inches, and just the cobs at 18 and 24 inches with and without the lenses they would probably clearly see the fundamental flaw with the design.

My problem with the amare is thus: the cobs with lenses installed are designed for Heights in excess of 22inches from the canopy. The monos seem to start losing effectiveness over 18inches,if you remove the lenses, then you can throw the 1000hps PPFD numbers out the window.

Lensed cobs coupled with monos doesn't make much sense to me. I asked amare once about running without the lenses and they don't recommend it. Overall I felt the spectrum was nice, it just doesn't make much sense to me from a design standpoint and isn't something I'd recommend if running 18inches or less from the canopy.
 

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
I think if someone took some par measurements on the amare with just the monos at 18 and 24 inches, and just the cobs at 18 and 24 inches with and without the lenses they would probably clearly see the fundamental flaw with the design.

My problem with the amare is thus: the cobs with lenses installed are designed for Heights in excess of 22inches from the canopy. The monos seem to start losing effectiveness over 18inches,if you remove the lenses, then you can throw the 1000hps PPFD numbers out the window.

Lensed cobs coupled with monos doesn't make much sense to me. I asked amare once about running without the lenses and they don't recommend it. Overall I felt the spectrum was nice, it just doesn't make much sense to me from a design standpoint and isn't something I'd recommend if running 18inches or less from the canopy.
I don't agree about the monos losing their effectiveness. I do agree that it works best over 18" though. They are HI-LEDs. I can talk more about this topic later. I'm installing my mini-split right now.
i thought the same thing at first. But I saw the colors well below the canopy (4') so I know they get way down there.
 

Resinhound

Well-Known Member
I don't agree about the monos losing their effectiveness. I do agree that it works best over 18" though. They are HI-LEDs. I can talk more about this topic later. I'm installing my mini-split right now.
i thought the same thing at first. But I saw the colors well below the canopy (4') so I know they get way down there.
"HI LED" is nothing but a marketing term, does the light get down there? Sure it does.. Is it as affective at 24 inches as 18 inches? Highly doubt that, regardless wether amare chooses to use the catchphrase "HI-LED". It's common knowledge the farther from the canopy the light source is the less PPFD is supplied. My comments only relate to the effectiveness of mixing Lensed high wattage cobs with smaller monos .It really doesn't make a whole lot of sense, personally I would think reflectors would be a smarter option.
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
Lumens are for humans. Plants prefer more red green and white than just mostly white of hid. So your scale.....although a decent measure isn't accurate as even white LEDs crush hid in plant needing light

Blue is amazing in veg and red is said to give bigger buds in flower. Cobs in 3500k seem good at both. I've used red blue and white mixed and it's all the same. But I can veg a 3x4 foot area with 88 watts of Osram ssl 80 and crush it. But veg is easy.View attachment 3731249
see this lumens line all the time lol.so if you have a 11,000 lumen blue cob and a 4500 lumen red cob you would choose the red one because it is better color for flowering? or maybe hps is a better example would you pick the 78,000 lumen hps or the 95,000 lumen hps if you could only use one lamp (600w) in your garden ?
lumens are a big part of the equation because it tells us how much intensity the lamp has.but there is a difference between photons and plant usable photons .so spectrum is important ;)
 

BM9AGS

Well-Known Member
see this lumens line all the time lol.so if you have a 11,000 lumen blue cob and a 4500 lumen red cob you would choose the red one because it is better color for flowering? or maybe hps is a better example would you pick the 78,000 lumen hps or the 95,000 lumen hps if you could only use one lamp (600w) in your garden ?
lumens are a big part of the equation because it tells us how much intensity the lamp has.but there is a difference between photons and plant usable photons .so spectrum is important ;)
see this lumens line all the time lol.so if you have a 11,000 lumen blue cob and a 4500 lumen red cob you would choose the red one because it is better color for flowering? or maybe hps is a better example would you pick the 78,000 lumen hps or the 95,000 lumen hps if you could only use one lamp (600w) in your garden ?
lumens are a big part of the equation because it tells us how much intensity the lamp has.but there is a difference between photons and plant usable photons .so spectrum is important ;)
Yeah but lumens measures the spectrum we don't care so much about in the intensity we don't care so much about. But regardless more of any light is generally better.
 
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