i’ll not buy another led until..

i’d be willing to pay 10-20% extra to cover the build and shipping costs of bigger heatsinks

  • yes

    Votes: 14 46.7%

  • no

    Votes: 16 53.3%
  • Total voters
    30
crimsonecho said:
why did you edit that you speak english no good :)

“You're the one who said 10-20% extra for fans to cool your light”
learn to read and beat it retard lol
Click to expand...
You arent making a whole lot of sense.
If you want a light that runs cooler, underdrive a higher watt fixture. Manufacturers already produce the lights you seek.
I have two hlg 648's on separate boards with a thermal pad behind them, at 150w a piece... They stay quite cool, especially with the fan blowing down on em.
 
crimsonecho said:
yet you keep doing it what are you obsessed with me or something. sorry man there is nothing wrong with it but i just dont swing that way :)
Click to expand...
So you've called me gay (homophobic) stupid (demeaning) and retarded. (Hate speech). But I'm obsessed with you? I'm meerly replying to your posts while I smoke a joint and chill in the tub. You keep coming at me. It's all there. All I said in the other thread is you'd pay big money for that computer fan which by your own accord is 100% true. You stated you'd pay 10-20% extra for cooling fans on your LEDs. 20% of 1000$ is 200 bucks ya? That's what YOU said. I didnt make it up so it's true. I duno why youre so sad?
 
Last edited:
Jjgrow420 said:
Op those fans aren't really useful. What are you looking to accomplish? Just circulation? Look into a fan that's made of metal with metal cage and blades meant for use in damp locations. Sorry about crims. He's 'special'
Click to expand...

thats just weak shit you’re doing here. you may be a bitch boy for your mars or whatever but it runs cool when i point fans at it is just the stupidest shit i’ve ever heard. you obviously missed the point of this thread so please kindly leave so some consumers can demand a better product from the companies they buy from. which as you can see is a real problem for some. it isnt for you, fine i got no problem with that. i got a problem with you not being able to read a simple question (its right at the top of the page, its the poll question) but i cant fix everything so i’ll let that go.
 
Boatguy said:
You arent making a whole lot of sense.
If you want a light that runs cooler, underdrive a higher watt fixture. Manufacturers already produce the lights you seek.
I have two hlg 648's on separate boards with a thermal pad behind them, at 150w a piece... They stay quite cool, especially with the fan blowing down on em.
Click to expand...
Oh no don't disagree with him. He'll hunt you down!
 
Boatguy said:
You arent making a whole lot of sense.
If you want a light that runs cooler, underdrive a higher watt fixture. Manufacturers already produce the lights you seek.
I have two hlg 648's on separate boards with a thermal pad behind them, at 150w a piece... They stay quite cool, especially with the fan blowing down on em.
Click to expand...

yeah underdrive a fixture right i should buy a 460w fixture designed for a 4x4 and run it at lower wattages? for a 4x4. why doesnt the company make a fixture with higher diode count, bigger pcbs, bigger or better heatsinks and underdrives the diodes to produce more light per watt and extends the lifespan?
 
crimsonecho said:
thats just weak shit you’re doing here. you may be a bitch boy for your mars or whatever but it runs cool when i point fans at it is just the stupidest shit i’ve ever heard. you obviously missed the point of this thread so please kindly leave so some consumers can demand a better product from the companies they buy from. which as you can see is a real problem for some. it isnt for you, fine i got no problem with that. i got a problem with you not being able to read a simple question (its right at the top of the page, its the poll question) but i cant fix everything so i’ll let that go.
Click to expand...
And you missed the point I made many times in that when it is just running stand alone it's way cooler than my cmhs. Point fans over it and it's cool to the touch. 90° max and running 100% power.
 
crimsonecho said:
yeah underdrive a fixture right i should buy a 460w fixture designed for a 4x4 and run it at lower wattages? for a 4x4. why doesnt the company make a fixture with higher diode count, bigger pcbs, bigger or better heatsinks and underdrives the diodes to produce more light per watt and extends the lifespan?
Click to expand...
You dont understand business do you. That would cost way more money and the market is way to competitive to come out with expensive ass lights that no one will buy. Business is about making money. They tell you what you want not the other way around. If you're so horny then build your own board ..? Problem solved
 
crimsonecho said:
yeah underdrive a fixture right i should buy a 460w fixture designed for a 4x4 and run it at lower wattages? for a 4x4. why doesnt the company make a fixture with higher diode count, bigger pcbs, bigger or better heatsinks and underdrives the diodes to produce more light per watt and extends the lifespan?
Click to expand...
I originally ran that fixture at 150w in my 2x2 tent.. so yes, if thats what you want you should run it at lower watts
 
Jjgrow420 said:
So you've called me gay (homophobic) stupid (demeaning) and retarded. (Hate speech). But I'm obsessed with you? I'm meerly replying to your posts while I smoke a joint and chill in the tub. You keep coming at me. It's all there. All I said in the other thread is you'd pay big money for that co outer fan which by your own accord is 100% true. You stated you'd pay 10-20% extra for cooling fans on your LEDs. 20% of 1000$ is 200 bucks ya? That's what YOU said. I did t make it up so it's true. I duno why youre so sad?
Click to expand...

just look at the poll question please. its obvious you’re not understanding the point of this thread. so you disagree with me and thats fine now please go troll somewhere else ok?

Jjgrow420 said:
You dont understand business do you. That would cost way more money and the market is way to competitive to come out with expensive ass lights that no one will buy. Business is about making money. They tell you what you want not the other way around. If you're so horny then build your own board ..? Problem solved
Click to expand...

i can build my own light and thats fine thanks your opinion is noted.

Boatguy said:
I originally ran that fixture at 150w in my 2x2 tent.. so yes, if thats what you want you should run it at lower watts
Click to expand...

yeah a fixture with dimensions of 4x4 like the zeus harry uses. should i run it dimmed over my 4x4 canopy. like at 300w for a 4x4 canopy how would that work.

PadawanWarrior said:
I don't want a fan in my lights. Just another thing to break or get clogged up. I'd rather have them separate so when a fan dies, I just replace it with another cheap fan. The cheap Lasko ones last about a year running 24/7.
Click to expand...

they really dont break down that easily but its really not the point of this thread so sure lets not put fans on it but build bigger pcbs with better heatsinks less diode density etc. these are not very expensive modifications if it can extend the lifespan of your fixture a considerable amount.
 
This is a public forum you posted on I have every right to post my opinion on this thread just as any other open thread. If you'd like a circle jerk then pm someone and I won't bother you.
 
Boatguy said:
Probably just bitch about the price of an underdriven fixture.
They can make the light he wants, but the consumer and competition will put them out of business.
Click to expand...

havent seen this part. ok lets talk about that. as someone mentioned up there before thread got derailed. 3 cents for a diode, double the amount of diodes drive them at half the current, use bigger pcbs, gonna give you better distribution overall, gonna run cooler with a corresponding heatsink because the heatsink is gonna have a bigger surface area to accomodate that bigger pcb. so whats wrong with that?

you build a light for a 4x4, the dimensions of the said fixture is 4x4 or close so where can you go from there? how can i run a 460w unit dimmed over a 4x4? i’d be underpowered if i did. that design doesnt make any sense imo. it forces you to run at 100% then you either have to actively cool it or as i did buy 4 seperate units and pay considerably more to cover the same area with the same wattage and run them dimmed. i dont think its too much to ask for a light that can go more than 4 years.

i cant believe how people can say mars hydro runs cool to the touch for example when the heatsink temps can reach 47-50C. none of these lights run cool to the touch and they should.

Jjgrow420 said:
This is a public forum you posted on I have every right to post my opinion on this thread just as any other open thread. If you'd like a circle jerk then pm someone and I won't bother you.
Click to expand...

your opinion noted again
 
crimsonecho said:
just look at the poll question please. its obvious you’re not understanding the point of this thread. so you disagree with me and thats fine now please go troll somewhere else ok?



i can build my own light and thats fine thanks your opinion is noted.



yeah a fixture with dimensions of 4x4 like the zeus harry uses. should i run it dimmed over my 4x4 canopy. like at 300w for a 4x4 canopy how would that work.



they really dont break down that easily but its really not the point of this thread so sure lets not put fans on it but build bigger pcbs with better heatsinks less diode density etc. these are not very expensive modifications if it can extend the lifespan of your fixture a considerable amount.
Click to expand...
Just run it softer. I run all my HLG 288's at 90 watts a piece. The heat sinks on the HLG's are plenty fine as is.
 
crimsonecho said:
havent seen this part. ok lets talk about that. as someone mentioned up there before thread got derailed. 3 cents for a diode, double the amount of diodes drive them at half the current, use bigger pcbs, gonna give you better distribution overall, gonna run cooler with a corresponding heatsink because the heatsink is gonna have a bigger surface area to accomodate that bigger pcb. so whats wrong with that?
Click to expand...
Market forces drive production. Most consumers have no idea an overdriven fixture has a short lifetime.
You should diy a fixture if you want to be happy
 
PadawanWarrior said:
Just run it softer. I run all my HLG 288's at 90 watts a piece. The heat sinks on the HLG's are plenty fine as is.
Click to expand...

i went with 4 seperate fixtures to run them dimmed because i couldnt keep the heatsink temps in check for a 460ish watt fixture designed for a 4x4. not without actively cooling it anyway.
 
Boatguy said:
Market forces drive production. Most consumers have no idea an overdriven fixture has a short lifetime.
You should diy a fixture if you want to be happy
Click to expand...

again i’m not disputing the fact that diy reigns supreme. but another drive behind production is consumer habits. if people can understand in 4 years their light will be at 80% or lower in most cases they may go for a better built unit which may force the low end manufacturers to produce not so low end products and even the mid level and higher end products to get better at thermal management.

if a heatsink is 50C what are the temps of the actual diodes on the boards. the on paper specs such as lm/w umol/j are very much the readings taken at 25C or something most of the time. so as a customer i want better products.
 
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