Im an ex soil, organic guy. I need help with my EBB & FLOW SOG.

WestCoastMaster said:

How do I go about that? I just checked on em and air temp is 101F. I have been dealing with temps like this for 2yrs. Air cooled hoods, CFM twice as much as it needs to be for the space, I can't get temps down. No one out here can unless your runnin a mini split or huge A/C system. Just not possible with out your electricity bill being in the high 300$ @ .11cents per KWH. We all just use Dyna Gro Pro Teckd. It's 8.7% silica, "silica blast" from B.C. Is only like 3.0%.

I heard you could through in some frozen water bottles...? I guess just tie a string on em so you can fish em back out?

IS THERE A REZ CHILLER? Or a way to do this with out sh*tn out a 20 dollar bill everyday or what?


I like the control and options I have with hydro but soil is... Well its soil you don't have to chill it just the ambient air.

PLEASE SOME ONE HELP ME GET MY REZ TEMP DOWN.

BTW where should my Rez temp be at anyway?

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WestCoastMaster said:

BRO thank you for the advice, i was thinking about adding another rez of just RO water to keep the main nute rez topped off for if i leave town... Christmas comn up. So i can get a rez chiller used at my hydro store for about 300$ like you said. So i chill a separate 20gal rez... then does it re-serculate with the main one to keep it cool or how does that work?

Chiller with stainless steal tubing..check
another 20 gal rez..check
pump..check

So i guess my question is does it re-serculate with the main rez to keep it cool, or just how does that work, i cant picture it in my head.

I guess it would be a waist of time to try frozen bottles if it only drops a couple degrees.

I have a used A/C from craigslist, it runs off 15 amps, not 9, and i have used it to blow cool air directly into a grow tent while it sat on the concrete floor of my garage. A/C is not an option too much per month, and im going micro/stealth with this, im done with huge ops.

The problem I see here is the Turbo Garden has a flaw. The flood table sits on top of the rez doubling as a lid for it. Its a nice compact design but that in turn puts the rez right under the light. Making it hot. If I had built a ebb an flow like i planned, the rez would have been able to be in another room, thus not under all that heat. Live and learn, maybe i can build a little table for the flood tray to sit on, and make a lid for the rez, separate them...

I would rather chill the nutes. Like i said im trying to go super small and maximize WPF, every one and their dog down here has their damn card and every one grows. the market is flooded. 1oz=$100, if its chronic. Back home 350/oz. I do not condone in selling we are compensated for elec. bill, nute, soil, so on. Its all a donation to our patients, money is compensation.

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adower said:

A lot of hydro shops will sell water chillers on co-signment. I would check them first. They will usually test it and everything to make sure it works.

You need to chill your separate 20 gal res. You should have the water chiller going into the separate 20 gal res, it will just be recirculating the water in the 20 gal res ONLY.

The coil you need will sit in the res with the nutes. Your coil will need to have a pump hooked up to it. That pump will sit in the 20 gal res with the cold water and will pump water through the coil in your res with the nutes. You will never be adding water to your nutrient res. The cold water from the 20 gal res will go through the coil and chill the water.

Never add water with nutrients to your water chiller it will mess up the coils and shorten the life of the chiller.

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Clown Baby said:

The protekt is great stuff. I dont know if anyones mentioned this yet, but here are two ways you can keep your room and water temps down:

1. Use an insulated cooler for your reservoir. An insulated cooler will keep water colder for wayyy longer than a rubbermaid tote/bucket/etc. People mention the frozen water bottle method of freezing 2liter bottles & floating them in your rez. It's useless in a rubbermaid, but actually works in a cooler.
Water temps arent as big a deal in Ebb&flow as they are in DWC. Pythium root root isn't as big as an issue, since the plants are only submerged 4 times a day. If you move to hydroton, you can also consider using bleach or h202 to control pathogens in a warm rez. (I dont know about sterilizing the water for coco). But unless your water gets slimy, you really dont need to panic.

2. Your room temps, however, are a problem. Try running your lights at night. Ambient temps are cooler at night so your lights wont be compounding with the afternoon heat. This can help a lot, especially during the summer months. It's hard to grow indoors in the summer without running AC, but with some adjustments you can make it happen.

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Clown Baby said:

pythium is the bacteria that causes root rot. It grows better in warmer water.

h202 is an oxidizer that can be used to kill all the bacteria. You gotta add it every few days, and need to find 30%+ strength. You can also use bleach to run a sterile reservoir, it's a lot cheaper. It's really not necessary unless you start having problems. here's a good read on it.

https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/327967-bleach-instead-h2o2.html

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