I'm Not F%ckin' around with This Hash Thing Anymore

SouthernOregonOrganic

Well-Known Member
the compassion center i vend to loves my hash. they actually charge 5 dollars more a gram for it. they want it formed into gooey balls. the powdered hash/keif sells for half the price. how do i dry it yet still form it into gooey balls? i've tried drying it and it turns into hard rocks. then i have to grind it and hot press it. this turns into a lot of extra work. looking for a way around this. i do find that if i store my hash in a sealed container it will start to form mildew on the surface. i solved this by simply storing in a breathable container or the freezer. once again i'm looking to avoid this while still maintaining my gooey balls. :blsmoke::peace:
Wat dispensary/compassion center do you supply? Im going back to cali in a day or two and i used to have medical when i lived up there. It would be an honor if i could sample some of your work as i have always admired you as a grower and a cannsure. Please let me know so i can go!
 

Aqua Lab Tech

Well-Known Member
Instructions for Using Fresh Dried Cannabis Material in Ice-water Separations.

You have three options in preparing your Cannabis material for Ice-Water Separation. Here are my instructions for using fresh dried cannabis material. These instructions are for using dried cannabis in trichome separation purposes only.

This process is intended for somebody with basic knowledge in Ice-water separations.

First you want to harvest the plant at the peak time. Remember your main goal in hash making is to harvest the fruit of the cannabis plant, the Resin Glands. In these instructions the goal is to not "bruise the fruit" until the time of smoking.

With this process there is no settling time or squeezing/pressing of the wet resin to “get the water out”

"When making ice-water trichome separations the less time your resin is in the water the better your resin will be."

The tools I prefer to you with this system are:
1. Super quality indoor grown resin covered cannabis material.
2. 1 / 150µ silkscreen, 1 / 77µ silkscreen, and 1 / 43µ silkscreen
3. Mini-washing machine (10 to 14 liter water capacity)
4. 2 / 220µ Zipper bags with Zipcro locking strap
5. Payload Bags PRO KIT 13 Bags
6. 3 buckets (5gal(19L) or 32gal(80L)) depending on the size of filter bags.
7. Bath tub and shower nozzle with hose attachment
8. Kitchen shami's and paper towels
9. 23µ silkscreen with custom feet attached on the corners. (To raise screen for air circulation)
10. Ice and water (RO preferred)
11. Plastic credit card style card
12. Stainless steel trays or bowls

This process with the second run included should take no more than 1.5 hours. Including setup and clean-up time. Although after 24 hours or when all tools are completely dry you will need to pack and carefully store away until your next cold water trichome separation.

Instructions:

1. Clean the plant before it has wilted of all the non-hash making leaves. (These can sometimes be used for cooking purposes.)
2. Hang plant upside down in a clean, low temperature, with air circulating environment. 5 to 10 days depending on area temperatures.
3. Trim all Hash making material off of plants over a 150µ silkscreen to catch all resin powder that is broken off in the manicuring process. Save resin powder in freezer to be cleaned up later with your 77µ and 43µ silkscreens.
4. Try and store all resin covered cannabis material on a stainless steel tray or bowl until its is time to make your ice-water separation. (To help collect any broken resin easily)
5. Place you filter bags in the bucket. Then add cold water until the bucket is a little over half full of water. Then add ice then your resin covered cannabis. (When using 220µ zipper filter bags for the inside of washing machines fill the 220µ zipper filter bag with ice then fill with resin covered cannabis and place in the washing machine with cold water and ice already in it)
6. If you have outdoor, dirty or small pieces of cannabis material, you can double the top screens for extra protection from contamination. Example-220um,190um,190um,160um,160um,120um......
7. Agitate for 6 minutes for a nice personal quality with flavor!!.(If using kitchen mixer agitate on no more than medium speed.)
8. Filter resin water through filter bags.

9. When using a mini-washer drain the resin water into the filter bags, but at the same time grab all the bags together and pull up softly bouncing them up and down at the same time the water is draining. By the time the machine is finished draining, your bags will also be drained. (Less time resin is sitting in the water the better the quality) (Rinse machine with cold clean water to retrieve any resin that is left in the machine)
Note: total time your resin is in the water using the mini-washer on the 6-minute run is around 10-minutes and for the 30-minute run about 35-minutes.


10. Now take your complete stack of drained bags and place them in the empty bucket.
11. Before taking the bags out from each other rinse the bag with water, because wet resin will stick to the bottom of the top bag from sitting on top of the wet resin in the bag below. (If you live where you have water with a lot of calcium you should think about using RO water.)
12. Rinse every filter bag screen individually with clean water.
13. When rinsing screens individually I prefer to do this in another empty bucket with one 160µ and one 25µ filter bag screen in the empty bucket. (Work bucket) I do this because you will force some resin through the screen when rinsing, but do not worry because it will be caught in the 25µ filter bag.
14. After rinsing each filter bag individually let the water drain out until you have nothing more than a few drops coming from the pile of resin in the bag. (Do not squeeze/press the resin; trying to get the water out, this will only bruise the resin) Do not “bruise the fruit”
15. Place the filter bag with the resin in it on a shami or stack of paper towels. To absorb all the loose water. Pick filter bag up and move to a dry spot on the shami.
16. Use a plastic credit style card to collect (harvest) the resin from the filter bag.
17. Place the wet resin on a 23µ silkscreen with little legs placed on the top four corners so you can flip it over and use the inside to dry you wet resin on.
18. Take the empty filter bag that you just harvested from and rinse all the resin caught in the screen into the "work bucket" the bucket with the 160µ and 25µ filter bags. Then hang filter bag up to dry.
19. Do this for the 120µ, 73µ, 45µ, 25µ and you will have a nice mixed pile of resin in the end. You can also filter all the resin water that was filtered once a second time through the "work bucket" the 160µ and the 25µ filter bag screens to catch any resin that was forced through the filter bag screen. Doing this step will make a higher percentage of quality resin.
20. The 160µ bag makes excellent food grade resin.
21. Go back to the 23µ drying silkscreen with all your wet resin qualities on it. Take the plastic card and break up the wet resin so it can dry evenly.
22. Take a couple of paper towels and fold them up in to a square. Then take the folded paper towels and gently press up under each pile of wet resin. From underneath the 23µ silkscreen absorbing any more loose water. Do this a few more times along with breaking up and moving around the wet resin powder until you can absorb no more loose water. (Touch paper towel if wet than do it again a little later)
23. Start second run and agitate for 30 minutes. (Follow same process.)
24. Leave your 23µ silkscreen/drying screen in a dry, dark air-circulating environment for 24 to 48 hours. If you plan on storing your resin powder then let it dry for 5 to 7 days and then place it in the freezer until wanted.

I only do one 6-minute run and one 30-minute run, in total 2 runs. With this I am satisfied with the overall quality and quantity of my Ice-water extractions. With these instructions your percentages should be around 12% to 13% on normal. Although I have made 17% and 18% often. You can process it more times, but quality and quantity will decrease greatly.

With this method and using quality resin covered cannabis you will end up with a superior resin powder that is amber in color and can be pressed between the fingers into a thin transparent sticky piece of hashish. This piece of hashish should snap when broken.

My instructions will change with time, for I am always looking and trying new ways to improve my Ice-water extraction techniques. High-Tech Hash making is a never-ending adventure. You will always be seeking the highest quality resin you can make. With every resin making experience you will keep on progressing with knowledge.


Your other options although I do not prefer these are:

2. Using really dry cannabis material: It will have more contaminants and will not be as soft and oily.

3. Using Frozen Fresh cannabis material: when using frozen fresh cannabis material you will more than likely end up with a white clump of resin that will never feel like it has dried completely. And will crumble at the touch. Never sticking together properly.

This is just my opinion from my own experiences.

Aqua Lab Tech
 

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
i think i see all the pics. how long do it let it dry. several days? you've been extremely helpful. i have a good idea you don't put out your product for profit. i've used them twice now and am still amazed at the quality. i did a little hype for ya. :).......YouTube - washin' the weed - part 2
 

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
i just checked it. it feels dry to the touch. feels crumbly. i can take a small pinch between my fingers and it works together pretty good. takes a minute to soften up but it worked. it still had water in it though. i would assume it will take a day or 2 to fully dry.
 

Aqua Lab Tech

Well-Known Member
i just checked it. it feels dry to the touch. feels crumbly. i can take a small pinch between my fingers and it works together pretty good. takes a minute to soften up but it worked. it still had water in it though. i would assume it will take a day or 2 to fully dry.
To properly process and dry your water-hash it starts with the plant material. You want the resin to be finished at the peak time on the plant. Then the resin needs to cure and dry after harvested while still on the plant. Usually about 2 weeks to a month is a good drying time for your plant material. This gives the resin time to dry and cure while still on the plant. Before being separated. When separating wet resin from wet plant material you final resin will always feel wet. If your plant material is to dry then you will get a lot of contamination from the plant material breaking down. Also remember any plant material not covered with resin will break down fast. So try and avoid any plant matter without resin on it. It will just take up weight and space and cuase your final hash to be less quality.

While processing your water hash, be careful to never squeeze the hash while it is wet. When pulling your bags, always rinse the wet resin to the middle of the bag with fresh clean water (RO preferred) let them drain until you have a drip of water. Then place the bag with the resin in the middle of the screen on top of a kitchen shami or stack or paper towels. This will absorb the water from your resin. Pick the bag up and place on a dry surface until you have aborb all the loose water. Then harvest the resin with a plastic card and place on a drying screen.

Now you can take another couple of pieces of paper towel and fold them and push up from underneath the screen to absorb anymore loose water. Now you can take the card and start to break up the resin. It will not break up easily at first. You need to keep absorbing the water and break it up into powder over the first 3 to 4 hours. If you wait to long it will be to hard to break up.

Let it dry for 7 days before pressing it to take to the clubs or storing it. The freezer works good for storage.

After pressing yourself a patty of hash, the hash should snap apart makng a noise, not tear apart. This is how you can tell if it is dried properly.

Aqua Lab Tech
 

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fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
To properly process and dry your water-hash it starts with the plant material. You want the resin to be finished at the peak time on the plant. Then the resin needs to cure and dry after harvested while still on the plant. Usually about 2 weeks to a month is a good drying time for your plant material. This gives the resin time to dry and cure while still on the plant. Before being separated. When separating wet resin from wet plant material you final resin will always feel wet. If your plant material is to dry then you will get a lot of contamination from the plant material breaking down. Also remember any plant material not covered with resin will break down fast. So try and avoid any plant matter without resin on it. It will just take up weight and space and cuase your final hash to be less quality.

While processing your water hash, be careful to never squeeze the hash while it is wet. When pulling your bags, always rinse the wet resin to the middle of the bag with fresh clean water (RO preferred) let them drain until you have a drip of water. Then place the bag with the resin in the middle of the screen on top of a kitchen shami or stack or paper towels. This will absorb the water from your resin. Pick the bag up and place on a dry surface until you have aborb all the loose water. Then harvest the resin with a plastic card and place on a drying screen.

Now you can take another couple of pieces of paper towel and fold them and push up from underneath the screen to absorb anymore loose water. Now you can take the card and start to break up the resin. It will not break up easily at first. You need to keep absorbing the water and break it up into powder over the first 3 to 4 hours. If you wait to long it will be to hard to break up.

Let it dry for 7 days before pressing it to take to the clubs or storing it. The freezer works good for storage.

After pressing yourself a patty of hash, the hash should snap apart makng a noise, not tear apart. This is how you can tell if it is dried properly.

Aqua Lab Tech
it's looking really good. i have it sifted out to where it looks like heavy sand. it is drying nicely. i worked a small ball together last night. it is now nice and hard (the samll ball). i dug in my thumbnail and try to "pull" a piece off, it "snapped". i then flattened the piece that broke off and placed it in my pipe. IT BUBBLES!!:mrgreen: like i said from the beginning.....you guys rock. come to sonoma county and my door is open for you. anytime. :mrgreen::blsmoke::peace:

i have a heating pad i use for my clones. i placed it on my table with a towel over it then a big piece of clean tempered glass over that. i am attempting to create a "hot table" that i can use to work my hash on. i prefer to hand form it as opposed to pressing it with tools. i will keep everyone updated on this technique. :blsmoke:
 

nowstopwhining

Too many brownies
it's looking really good. i have it sifted out to where it looks like heavy sand. it is drying nicely. i worked a small ball together last night. it is now nice and hard (the samll ball). i dug in my thumbnail and try to "pull" a piece off, it "snapped". i then flattened the piece that broke off and placed it in my pipe. IT BUBBLES!!:mrgreen: like i said from the beginning.....you guys rock. come to sonoma county and my door is open for you. anytime. :mrgreen::blsmoke::peace:

i have a heating pad i use for my clones. i placed it on my table with a towel over it then a big piece of clean tempered glass over that. i am attempting to create a "hot table" that i can use to work my hash on. i prefer to hand form it as opposed to pressing it with tools. i will keep everyone updated on this technique. :blsmoke:
That sounds like a really good Idea and im thinking its gonna work. :blsmoke:

Ive only made hash twice now and in small quantities though :?
 

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
i had a HUGE post all type out. i loaded a bunch of pics. closed the wrong window and it all went away.



i heated a big light bulb and pressed it on top of a pile of dry crumbs on glass with a heating pad and towel under it. it worked great. the bulb was cool enough to keep on my forearm, my wife called it "baby bottle warm". then i held my hands over my heater as i worked it all together. it turned out beautiful. it "snaps when i bend it. it is brittle yet pliable. it rattles against the glass but bends if you go very slow or rub it. i will continue to do this in the future. thank you once again aqua labs, you changed my methods for the better. :blsmoke:

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Aqua Lab Tech

Well-Known Member
i had a HUGE post all type out. i loaded a bunch of pics. closed the wrong window and it all went away.



i heated a big light bulb and pressed it on top of a pile of dry crumbs on glass with a heating pad and towel under it. it worked great. the bulb was cool enough to keep on my forearm, my wife called it "baby bottle warm". then i held my hands over my heater as i worked it all together. it turned out beautiful. it "snaps when i bend it. it is brittle yet pliable. it rattles against the glass but bends if you go very slow or rub it. i will continue to do this in the future. thank you once again aqua labs, you changed my methods for the better. :blsmoke:

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Nice work FDD2, Looks like you have some really nice quality there.

Aqua Lab Tech
 

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
Nice work FDD2, Looks like you have some really nice quality there.

Aqua Lab Tech


i'm going to take a moment to thank/blame you now. i've been smoking a lot of hash since we spoke about my usage. you've got me smoking it with my coffee in the morning. i like making little discs and watching them bubble away. good stuff my friend, good stuff. :hump::blsmoke::peace:
 
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