Intake/exhaust temperature want stay down

Kali cannect said:

I also wanted to run34-4000 watts what's the max I could control in this size room? I can do Hydro or soil on this what ever wil be commercially best

Click to expand...

Killerdills420 said:

Holy shit your all set I got a 10×10 &5×5 Mylar tents pretty basic set up 600 & 400 watt mh_hps set up with occilating fan online exaust that keeps me at 77 degrees stable View attachment 3477050

Click to expand...

Kali cannect said:

Awesome man this your first grow ? Thanks for liking my room even though I haven't posted pics I will today. My door isn't finished its pulling in a lot of outside air. My room is under ground and going for a sealed closure but can't pull day temps down enough I think my ac unit too small but small room and 12,000 btu!?!??

Click to expand...

Killerdills420 said:

No not my first but only a few under my belt I like the way Your room sounds,i can picture it..however if it's under ground it shouldn't b to hard to figure out once I get food on ground will probably take care of temo issue as the ground is like stable 50s temp range install wall fan into dugout into ground pull soils coolness into room

Click to expand...

adower said:

If you're running a passive room your room temp will never go lower than the ambient temp. Unless your running ungodly amounts of ac. For 4k watts you need at least 2 tons of btu.

Click to expand...

B.B.V.C. said:

If the door is pulling shut on its own it sounds like maybe 1000 cfm is a bit too much for your room, maybe the reason your room is so hot is that all of the air conditioned air going in is being sucked out immediately before it has a chance to even effect the temp in your room. Can you put a speed controller on your fan? or maybe a timer so that it lets the room cool down and then sucks fresh air in every 15 minutes or so

Click to expand...

Kali cannect said:

I have a new room we built underground and used all heavy material no expensive spared. R-30 thickest insulation and foam board over that. Will go Mylar next but my issue is I bought portable ac unit "single hose" I make my own second hose plenum, I am a/c electrician I already knew what to do. I have electrical ran everywhere 6" fresh air from outside pulling into the a/c then out the exhaust with a 1000+ cfm exhaust fan. I have a negative pressure because I have not finished my door hatch/ gasket seal. Is my door not being sears the reason my temperature want pull down under 77? When it's hot outside? I'm not even running a light yet and only pulls down to low 70 at night time. Maybe my ac just under sized. Even tho 9x11x7 high and I bought 12,000 btu ac should pull down a naked room I would think or is it my door hatch lolling in too much air for outside? I can stand on laser by door and a lot of air rushes over me and sucked out the door

Click to expand...

Kali cannect said:

Is it possible to have an exhaust fan too strong pulling too much air from my room ? I have only the ac pulling in its fresh air no inline intake fan. My door tries to stay closed like I have a lot of air ducking into my room. If I seal my door off do you all think my temp will hold steady and lower ?

Click to expand...

B.B.V.C. said:

If the door is pulling shut on its own it sounds like maybe 1000 cfm is a bit too much for your room, maybe the reason your room is so hot is that all of the air conditioned air going in is being sucked out immediately before it has a chance to even effect the temp in your room. Can you put a speed controller on your fan? or maybe a timer so that it lets the room cool down and then sucks fresh air in every 15 minutes or so

Click to expand...

Red1966 said:

If the A/C was properly vented, there will be no air being pulled into the room. A single hose A/C isn't sealed worth a shit. You'll need to do more than just attach ducting to it.

Click to expand...