twentyeight.threefive
Well-Known Member
The first plant is probably a good 2-3 weeks to go before it's ready. The second plant has like 6 weeks to go...
Is she there?
- Thread starter Newbie Wan Kenobe
- Start date
Newbie Wan Kenobe
Member
What are your thoughts on underdevelopment for the older plant, and does the auto flower timeline matter there?
Failmore
Well-Known Member
The plant tells you the timeline. Just read the plant. You will be weeks over the breeder schedule. The more mature plant has 3 or 4 weeks. The less mature has 6-8 weeks.
I screwed up my autos and I'm at week 15 now. So.....fuck the breeder schedule it don't matter.
Probably let this go 3 more weeks. And I'm way ahead of you.
Newbie Wan Kenobe
Member
did you run into the same issue with stringy buds as a result there? The trichome development is amazing!
did you see more bract development even with stringy buds?
Newbie Wan Kenobe
Member
[/QUOTE] Probably let this go 3 more weeks. And I'm way ahead of you. [/QUOTE]
PS you’re the advice I was hoping to get, thanks.
PS you’re the advice I was hoping to get, thanks.
Failmore
Well-Known Member
This plant is sativa leaning. Sativa plants give stringy buds. That is just how it goes. Breeders bred indica into sativa to get the indica buds with the sativa hi. Sometimes you win sometimes you don't. Just how genetics works.
I don't sell...so not worried about dense buds. I'm worried about how it effects me medically.
Right side is more indica and has dense buds.
Newbie Wan Kenobe
Member
Me either, but most people here seemed to tell me the short answer was “it’s lost, just garbage now.” Thanks, for your input man, happy growing!
Newbie Wan Kenobe
Member
I’ve flushed, start her back on 0-0–5 flower nutes?
Failmore
Well-Known Member
I'd go with a regular food. All my issues start when I try and jack around and use special nutes. Start to finish on the same shit especially if you are new to the game. Your plants still need some N in the food. Just a lot.
I use jacks 1 part tap formula and it does the trick for me. My yellowing is from when I let the ph go low.
MAGpie81
Well-Known Member
Notice how @Failmore has swollen calyxes (like popcorn, kinda) in his pic? As big as you can get those, with as many hairs receding or wilting off, “the better”. I used quotes because by that point many of your trichomes should be reddish, which leads to a “heavier” stone.
And yeah, you can totally make tincture or edibles with early- or larfy-harvests.
One ounce dried plant matter (by weight!) to ~ 1Q. volume of coconut oil, slowly steeped in a crockpot with lid only partly on at 250f-300f (low setting on mine) for about 4 hours, then strain out plant matter. I stir mine a couple times per hour, and if it starts getting too toasty/dark remove lid fully, and stir to cool.
Tip: if the lid doesn’t steam up when on the pot, it’s good because it means all the water has been evaporated. The oil cooks much quicker at that point so keep an eye on it.
I find the oil has more of a sleepy-effect so I eat a tsp+ before bedtime. Can be used topically and works best that way if mixed with a little alcohol (isopropyl or any high-proof drinking alcohol); eases sore muscles.
Newbie Wan Kenobe
Member
I’m concerned that with the red pistols so abundant, the calyxes won’t develop. They appear small at this time.
I’m currently a big fan of making tinctures out of everclear, I have a decarber and that works brilliantly, but I’ve yet to use my own flower to do it. I’ve used sugar trim and bud from friends with MCT extracts and alcohol extracts, alcohol seems best effect-wise.
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MAGpie81
Well-Known Member
Probably due to high nitrogen in late flower as others have suggested?
But if you haven’t chopped yet- definitely give them at least 2-3 weeks, unless botrytis or mold start setting in.
I mostly grow outdoor so that’s common in my area. Can spray with citric acid and/or H2O2 dilution to prevent or control without affecting quality too much (citric will give a tart taste if it doesn’t wash off; overly concentrated peroxide will burn them, but leaves no residue).