Is this Mold?????

Hi just checked my girl over and she has started throwing more whit pistils out but concerned about 'fluff' on 1 or two buds, is this Mold???? If it is what can I do with it, she has another week or 2 in flower yet, it's on second pic near bottom leaf IMG_20210701_170214.jpgIMG_20210701_165104.jpgIMG_20210701_165046.jpg
 

Sofa King Smoooth

Well-Known Member
I'm not an expert but it looks like to me.

Have same issue right now.

I cut off the offending cola and searched through everything else. Didn't see any other rot but too nervous about it so trashed all three plants in that tent.
 

Green_Alchemist

Well-Known Member
How? Is there a way to tell?
I’d check a healthy bud first, this way you know how it should look healthy, then the bad bud and if it appears fuzzy or anything not “normal”, cut it off. First, bag it before cutting, so you don’t spread any spores.

(if you checked the bad bud first, clean the loupe with alcohol just so you don’t spread next time you use it)
 

Samsung Kawasaki

Active Member
That my friend is mold. The growers number 1 enemy. You need to get your environment in check more airflow needed and double check the whole plant trashing any buds that look suspect. If you can fix your environment then you may be able to finish but usually if there is some then there will be more and the spores will be everywhere. You will need to deep clean your grow area and equipment before the next grow.
 
Yeah defo fluffy, but no rot so what can I try? If it is rott got nothing to lose trying to salvage it so always worth a try,
 

Roy O'Bannon

Well-Known Member
Saw this in a thread earlier about mold.
Get potassium bicarbonate 1-2 tsp mix with ½ gallon of water and ½gallon of straight (no camphor or other additives) 70% isopropyl alcohol. Spray everything. Potassium bicarbonate will raise the ph of the surface of the plant and help prevent fungal infections. It won't hurt the buds.
Good luck friend!

 

Green_Alchemist

Well-Known Member
Saw this in a thread earlier about mold.
Get potassium bicarbonate 1-2 tsp mix with ½ gallon of water and ½gallon of straight (no camphor or other additives) 70% isopropyl alcohol. Spray everything. Potassium bicarbonate will raise the ph of the surface of the plant and help prevent fungal infections. It won't hurt the buds.
Good luck friend!

Good suggestion for veg! Though I wouldn’t use a bicarbonate in flower, don’t want to smoke that stuff, It leaves a residue. also the mildew will be inside the bud as well, and it’s impossible to spray inside them

Honestly I’d bag/clip all affected buds/leafs, and go with a PM wash with H2o2 at harvest myself. Really nothing you can spray this late in the game :/
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
There is no spray that will get rid of mold that far along in flower that is safe to use. Remove all infected parts immediately and discard them. There really isn't anything else you can do once mold sets in. Don't even bother trying to wash that stuff. Consider it a loss. There are mold spores all over the rest of the plants and it will keep growing even after harvest while it's drying. One of the only reasons to harvest early is when you start getting mold. If you wait 2 weeks to harvest chances are you're going to find more mold as the days go by.

I've chucked entire plants in the past due to mold even though much of it looked fine. Upon closer examination of what looked like healthy mold free buds I found mold growth on the inside. It's not always obvious and some people will mistake the long thin mold which has a bulbous end for trichomes.


"Gray mold can be difficult to control because it has a wide host range and can survive for extended periods of time in the absence of a host as sclerotia. A single mode of prevention alone is unlikely to be successful in preventing gray mold.

Sanitation is an important component to preventing spread of gray mold. Clean all equipment used on/near plants. Removing dead and infected plants and plant parts is essential to preventing, slowing, and stopping the spread of infection. Avoid removing affected plant parts when the field is wet or humid to prevent the spread of spores in conditions that favor further infection. Proper spacing will promote air flow between and around plants, also reducing the risk of infection. Because B. cinerea thrives in cool, moist environments, maintaining a properly watered environment with as little excess moisture as possible should reduce epidemics. Reduce humidity (below 50% RH) in greenhouses. Avoid over-fertilization to limit excess growth of the plant."

There are currently no effective, legal chemistries available to control gray mold in industrial hemp.

 

Roy O'Bannon

Well-Known Member
Below 50rh, that I can do in the shop, between the ac and dehumidifier. This spring though the ac wasn't running and I hadn't bought the dehumidifier yet... seems I caused my own mold. Had a week of 60ish rh and I overfed and made lots of green growth in flower.
 

bigunyun

Well-Known Member
Bummer! Growing here spring and summer in the Northeast mold is always an issue. One thing to watch for is when your lights go off and temps drop, the RH will spike and that can trigger mold. I run my AC during the day and my dehumdi's at night. Another option is switching up your lighting schedule so lights are on at night, off during day... that can help in summer months. I switched my plants up last summer from a daytime light schedule to nighttime - I switched it up in one day and the plants didn't seem to skip a beat.
 

Husk

Well-Known Member
Bummer! Growing here spring and summer in the Northeast mold is always an issue. One thing to watch for is when your lights go off and temps drop, the RH will spike and that can trigger mold. I run my AC during the day and my dehumdi's at night. Another option is switching up your lighting schedule so lights are on at night, off during day... that can help in summer months. I switched my plants up last summer from a daytime light schedule to nighttime - I switched it up in one day and the plants didn't seem to skip a beat.
This is exactly it! What most growers run into that can cause severe mold problems is the rapid temperature change from the light turning off. What happens is the change in temperature upon thermal regulated objects such as a pot of soil that continues to hold heat, while the fans, tent, leafs, etc. Rapidly cool, as well as cold air being blown on hot leafs.This creates much condensation! To avoid this, most run major changes like this at the most homeostasis time. This in turn will reduce such a rapid temperature change between objects, potentially decreasing the possibility of water droplets that need to be removed, mostly from air movement to the dehumidifier if available. The idea is to create an environment that doesn't fluctuate drastically and slowly decrease temps as a whole. The same can be said for lights on...

This small detail is what most growers seem to forget, neglect, or simply disrespect! In nature 10 degree drops don't happen in an instant. The sun sets, and rises very slowly, and methodically almost.
 
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