ooof-da
Well-Known Member
Heck yes, even temperature swing effect pH on a time weighted basis. But luckily most pH sensors today are automatically adjusting for temp…
Is this Tobacco Mosaic Virus? Almost three straight YEARS of total crop failure. Should I nuke the grow-op?
- Thread starter ebgms
- Start date
Kerowacked
Well-Known Member
PH isn’t diddly in soil, most commercial soils are buffered. Hydro or coco is more sensitive tho.
weedstoner420
Well-Known Member
Besides the whole water pH thing, I also feel like the combination of potting mix and salt-based nutes often leads to issues like you're seeing. Not saying it can't be done, but there are tons and tons of threads on here with plants burnt to shit, looking like yours, and a lot of them are from growers using potting mix and salts together...
If you'd be willing to consider switching to a different grow method, you might want to give organic soil and dry amendments a try. You basically pre-load the soil with compost and organic nutrients (often available in pre-mixed blends) and add more periodically throughout the grow. Then just give plain water, no flushing or mixing/measuring required. Check out the "Official Gaia Green" thread in the organics section...the method is super easy, and as an added bonus you don't have to pH the water (unless it's way way off to begin with).
Good luck!
If you'd be willing to consider switching to a different grow method, you might want to give organic soil and dry amendments a try. You basically pre-load the soil with compost and organic nutrients (often available in pre-mixed blends) and add more periodically throughout the grow. Then just give plain water, no flushing or mixing/measuring required. Check out the "Official Gaia Green" thread in the organics section...the method is super easy, and as an added bonus you don't have to pH the water (unless it's way way off to begin with).
Good luck!
Phytoplankton
Well-Known Member
The process of RO creates an acidic water. Letting it sit in contact with air makes it more acidic.
manfredo
Well-Known Member
Damn, you deserve an award for sticking with it...
I didn't read this entire thread, but have you ever tried using an IPM from the start.... Integrated pest management?
Regalia, Venerate, and Grandevo are 3 products that are pretty amazing and would strengthen and protect you against a lot of pests/diseases....If that's what this even is.
I use the Regalia, for powdery mildew protection, and Venerate for bug protection, from seedling until they start to throw pistols, then discontinue, and I have had zero problems since I began using it.
It saved me from powdery mildew that kept coming back no matter what I did.
It's a bit pricey....Quarts are around $50 each but will last you a year with several tents going!
An IPM is smart for everyone, or sooner or later you'll wind up with a mess and wish you had.
Good luck!!
I didn't read this entire thread, but have you ever tried using an IPM from the start.... Integrated pest management?
Regalia, Venerate, and Grandevo are 3 products that are pretty amazing and would strengthen and protect you against a lot of pests/diseases....If that's what this even is.
I use the Regalia, for powdery mildew protection, and Venerate for bug protection, from seedling until they start to throw pistols, then discontinue, and I have had zero problems since I began using it.
It saved me from powdery mildew that kept coming back no matter what I did.
It's a bit pricey....Quarts are around $50 each but will last you a year with several tents going!
An IPM is smart for everyone, or sooner or later you'll wind up with a mess and wish you had.
Good luck!!
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
This is exactly my point. These are the people claiming viruses are destroying their crops when it's just user error/inexperience with usually the most simple of things.
'Only a virus could explain this!'
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Ok … was gonna keep the magic solution to myself … Pee.
GenericEnigma
Well-Known Member
Talk about changing water, check this out:
My well ran at 1200ppm with mostly iron and lime solutes. One day the river changed course and left the main channel it had been using for - however long it took to carve the solid riverbed rock. At the same time my well water fell in depth (had to adjust sprinkler nozzles to stop sucking air at the intake). It changed to about 1000ppm, and started spalling my concrete that had been wet by it for decades.
I have no idea what caused the river to shift.
Yes, water definitely changes over time! Sometimes it can't be anticipated - and it might be hard to notice (especially if unexpected observations of others are shot down).
My well ran at 1200ppm with mostly iron and lime solutes. One day the river changed course and left the main channel it had been using for - however long it took to carve the solid riverbed rock. At the same time my well water fell in depth (had to adjust sprinkler nozzles to stop sucking air at the intake). It changed to about 1000ppm, and started spalling my concrete that had been wet by it for decades.
I have no idea what caused the river to shift.
Yes, water definitely changes over time! Sometimes it can't be anticipated - and it might be hard to notice (especially if unexpected observations of others are shot down).
Kushash
Well-Known Member
Been following this thread on and off. Leaving my 2c.
Everything was perfect nothing changed for 15 years. Something changed over 15 years. If I had to bet on what I thought the problem was and got decent odds. My bet is your watering style changed. I doubt anybody goes 15 years without trying different ways of watering a soil grow. I bet if you have pics before any of the dead spots showed up 2 or 3 weeks prior, we will see leaves that appeared stressed from improper watering, not perfect plants.
The lower leaves in the pic above, not the leaves with the dead spots, the ones below those look canoed from improper watering IMO.
I'm out!
Kushash
Well-Known Member
Again, I might be repeating something someone already said. Along with my feeling you are stressing them with improper watering. Your water source only has an average of 20 ppms of calcium. 75 ppms is the average amount of calcium that is needed for cannabis, could be higher or lower but 20 is not enough. I don't buy the fungus or TMV as being an issue. Looks like it is an advanced case of calcium deficiency to me.
I would add gypsum next time at the 1st sign of dead spots that appear in early to mid-flower.
Good Luck!
YET ANOTHER DISASTER IN THE MAKING (Pictures attached)
My most recent grow is shaping up to be the worst one yet in four years, despite me putting in all new lights, better ventilation, better temp regulation and using every insecticide, aracnicide and fungicide under the planet.
I'm only fifteen (15) days into flower right now and the uglies have already started.
This is the earliest that the plants have ever started to die.
Usually I can at least make it to day 20-25 before this EXACT SAME bs starts, and it ALWAYS happens no matter what I do. No matter how much nutrients I add or other healthy stuff I give it the plants just REFUSE to bloom properly.
Keep in mind they grew JUST FINE for TEN YEARS without ONE SINGLE PROBLEM then ever since espoma switched it's soil from a Canada to NJ source (2019) EVERY SINGLE CROP has failed no matter which soils, nutes, lights, watering schedules, whatever I use.
And they always fail in almost the exact same way.
All the leaves just burn right off the middle of the plant up. Where ever the light is hitting a leaf, that leaf will eventually die. It's only a matter of time.
WHY DOES THIS KEEP HAPPENING TO ME?!?
For four years straight I have been suffering continuous low to mid grade pain all day all night because these atrocious plants, that produced NO PROBLEM for TEN YEARS keep dying on me before I can get them to complete a flower cycle.
While I am in a legal state, dispensary weed does not work for my pain condition. I have a pet theory that dispensary weed is fake weed because it doesn't even get me "high". Like nothing, not even dry mouth when I medicate with an entire eighth in one sitting (the label says there's like 25 percent THC in it...yeah right total bs).
I think what I have here is that HDLV dudding virus disease. It must be. There's nothing else left. It's not nutes, it's not water, it's not light, it's not temperature, it's not ventilation, it's not soil, it's not genetics because one I started from seed last time capped out in the EXACT SAME WAY.
This virus just attacks leaves on the top and middle of the plant. When I harvest, the top half of the plant is on death's doorstep and the bottom half is just lush and green, no problems. Of course there's no viable flower down there either!
Does anyone have any suggestions? I know I cannot stop this, but is there any way to slow it down at least enough so I can keep the plants alive until day 30 or 40 so I can at least get a tiny SMIDGEN of relief (ie medicine)?
Thanks in advance.
My most recent grow is shaping up to be the worst one yet in four years, despite me putting in all new lights, better ventilation, better temp regulation and using every insecticide, aracnicide and fungicide under the planet.
I'm only fifteen (15) days into flower right now and the uglies have already started.
This is the earliest that the plants have ever started to die.
Usually I can at least make it to day 20-25 before this EXACT SAME bs starts, and it ALWAYS happens no matter what I do. No matter how much nutrients I add or other healthy stuff I give it the plants just REFUSE to bloom properly.
Keep in mind they grew JUST FINE for TEN YEARS without ONE SINGLE PROBLEM then ever since espoma switched it's soil from a Canada to NJ source (2019) EVERY SINGLE CROP has failed no matter which soils, nutes, lights, watering schedules, whatever I use.
And they always fail in almost the exact same way.
All the leaves just burn right off the middle of the plant up. Where ever the light is hitting a leaf, that leaf will eventually die. It's only a matter of time.
WHY DOES THIS KEEP HAPPENING TO ME?!?
For four years straight I have been suffering continuous low to mid grade pain all day all night because these atrocious plants, that produced NO PROBLEM for TEN YEARS keep dying on me before I can get them to complete a flower cycle.
While I am in a legal state, dispensary weed does not work for my pain condition. I have a pet theory that dispensary weed is fake weed because it doesn't even get me "high". Like nothing, not even dry mouth when I medicate with an entire eighth in one sitting (the label says there's like 25 percent THC in it...yeah right total bs).
I think what I have here is that HDLV dudding virus disease. It must be. There's nothing else left. It's not nutes, it's not water, it's not light, it's not temperature, it's not ventilation, it's not soil, it's not genetics because one I started from seed last time capped out in the EXACT SAME WAY.
This virus just attacks leaves on the top and middle of the plant. When I harvest, the top half of the plant is on death's doorstep and the bottom half is just lush and green, no problems. Of course there's no viable flower down there either!
Does anyone have any suggestions? I know I cannot stop this, but is there any way to slow it down at least enough so I can keep the plants alive until day 30 or 40 so I can at least get a tiny SMIDGEN of relief (ie medicine)?
Thanks in advance.
I just found this picture on the net. This is almost the EXACT way my leaves die. However, this picture was in an article about a phosphorus (ie the "P" in NPK) deficiency, which I know I don't have because I fed 2x the amount of phosphorus (P) last watering because buds were starting to show.
So my plants have PLENTY of phosphorous, yet the leaves die like it has a phosphorous deficiency?!?
Of course, that makes absolutely no sense whatsoever and defies laws of physics and chemistry.
Does HLDV Dudding interfere with the plant's ability to uptake and metabolize phosphorous properly during flower?
That would explain a great many things.
Do you think I should flush and re-feed with even more phosphorous than 2x the recommended dose? Would that help?
Link: https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/phosphorus-deficiency
Pic:
So my plants have PLENTY of phosphorous, yet the leaves die like it has a phosphorous deficiency?!?
Of course, that makes absolutely no sense whatsoever and defies laws of physics and chemistry.
Does HLDV Dudding interfere with the plant's ability to uptake and metabolize phosphorous properly during flower?
That would explain a great many things.
Do you think I should flush and re-feed with even more phosphorous than 2x the recommended dose? Would that help?
Link: https://www.growweedeasy.com/cannabis-plant-problems/phosphorus-deficiency
Pic:
Tolerance Break
Well-Known Member
I think you're feeding them too much and not enough water.
Tolerance Break
Well-Known Member
You're overcorrecting and causing more problems. It's more than likely lockout from overfeeding or a ph imbalance, possibly from the added phosphorous.
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
Too much P can be a problem as well, btw..
dwc420letsgo
Well-Known Member
What is the definition of insanity?
Drop That Sound
Well-Known Member
Doing the same thing over and over, expecting different results.
So the virus is causing a "lockout"? What is that, I thought that was like workers going on strike or something???
I don't think I'm overfeeding. I'm feeding the recommended dose on the instructions except for the last watering, where I gave 1x N 2x P 1x K because the buds were starting to set. I did that for ten years and it never caused a problem.
And the venn diagram you posted makes absolutely no sense to me. What does it even mean? I don't know much about plants/botany.
Thanks.
But I don't really have any of the symptoms listed in that description:
1. Upper leaves develop yellow veins: No
2. Leaf tips will show signs of "burn": No. The whole leaf burns up not just the tip.
3. Will look similar to cal/Mag and other micro nute problems: I don't know.
4. New Leaves Grow Thin Fingers: No
5. Lower leaves curl and develop spots: No, the lower leaves are unaffected by this virus.
Also I'm in soil, those instructions appear to be for hydro.